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THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
T)rBi" rv-.o»T*"
The Pure Food Cook Book
The Good Housekeeping Recipes
Just How to Buy- -Just How to Cook
Edited by MILDRED JVTADDOCKS
Associate Editor of Good Housekeeping Magazine
Editor of the "Family Cook Book "5 "Every Day Dishes"; " Brosia
Meal Cook Book"
With an Introduction and Notes on Food and Food Values by
HARVEY W. WILEY, M.D.
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Over 70 Illustrations
HEARST'S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY CO.
NEW YORK 1914
COPYRIGHT, igi4, BY
HEARST'S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY Co., INC.
All rights reserved, including the trans-
lation into foreign languages^ including
the Scandinavian.
THE NIfW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
676993
Ail OR, LE.NOX AND
TILDES FOUNDATIONS
19M L
• •
CONTENTS
PAGE
GOOD COOKING. BY H. W. WILEY, M.D. . 3
1 JUST How TO PLAN THE MENUS ... 9
2 SPRING MENUS 14
3 SUMMER MENUS 28
4 AUTUMN MENUS 41
5 WINTER MENUS 56
6 BREAD 71
7 JUST How TO MAKE BREAD 75
8 JUST How TO MAKE BREAKFAST BREADS . . 81
9 RICE 95
10 JUST How TO COOK RICE 97
11 SOUPS in
12 JUST How TO MAKE SOUPS ... 113
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T^ . . , , b
13 EGGS 123
14 JUST How TO PRESERVE EGGS > . . . .125
15 JUST How TO COOK EGGS . . . . 128
- » 5 V - . ". _'
16 FISH .... . 145
17 JUST How TO COOK FISH 147
18 POULTRY 171
19 JUST How TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY . .173
20 MEAT 185
21 JUST How TO BUY MEATS 187
22 JUST How TO ROAST MEATS 200
23 JUST How TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK .... 202
24 JUST How TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF . . 205
V
vi CONTENTS
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25 JUST How TO CASSEROLE MEATS .... 209
26 JUST How TO COOK MEATS 214
27 DESSERTS 237
28 JUST How TO MAKE DESSERTS .... 239
29 SALADS 265
30 A CHAPTER OF SALADS 267
31 POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES . . . 281
32 JUST How TO COOK POTATOES .... 285
33 JUST How TO MAKE JELLIES AND PRESERVES . 297
34 JUST How TO COOK VEGETABLES . . . 317
35 JUST How TO MAKE PICKLES .... 343
36 ICE CREAM AND CAKE 357
37 JUST How TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS . . 359
38 JUST How TO MAKE CAKE 375
39 JUST How TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE . . 399
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACING PAGE
A Tea Tray and Tea Service for the Porch or Indoor Use.
Frontispiece
Detail of a Luncheon Service, with the Correct Appoint-
ments for Serving Fruit Cocktails 10
One of the Newest Serving Trays, with Dresden China
Bottom and Wicker Sides n
A Group of Sandwich Cutters for Use in Making the Tea
Tray Attractive . 18
A Glass Server for the Cheese Course 19
A Luncheon Table Decorated for a Suffrage Function . 32
A School Luncheon Box in which Each Food is Wrapped
in its Separate Paraffin Case 33
A Thanksgiving Table Decorated Especially for the Children 48
Cracker Dish Designed Especially for the Porch Tea Table 49
Puree of Tomato. A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving
Relishes 60
Casaba Melon 61
Cream Scones. Sally Lunns 72
Rusk Squares in an Attractive Porringer. A Service for the
Breakfast Orange 73
Ragga Muffins. Parker House Rolls 82
A Luncheon Table for a Washington's Birthday Celebra-
tion 83
Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. Rolling
and Cutting the Dough. Peanut Butter Pinwheels . 88
Brioche Cakes 89
Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. A Charing Dish and
Alcohol Lamp 98
Rice Steamed in One of the Newest of Kitchen Novelties :
a Rice Ball. Raised Muffins 99
Escalloped Oysters, Served in Scallop Shells . . . 104
Planked Salmon, with Potato Balls VI05
vii
viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACING PAGE
Steamed Squash in Shell. Boiled Asparagus . . . 174
Roast Turkey, Garnished with Cranberries .... 175
Flank Steak. Inferior Ham. Choice Ham .... 188
Standing Rib Roast. Common Porterhouse Steak from
Stripper Loin 189
Sheep or Lamb, Marked to Show the Retail Cuts. Showing
Where the Chops and Cutlets of Veal Come in the
Carcass 194
The Retail Cuts of Pork, as Seen in the Whole Pig. The
" Beef Creature," Marked Off to Show the Retail Cuts . 195
Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon 198
Mutton Loin Roasts 199
Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades . . 204
Sausage Bundles 205
Casserole of Beef. Corn Cakes to serve with Meat . . 212
Casseroled Veal. Creamed Asparagus Tips .... 213
Ivory Cream. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake . . 244
Gooseberry Amber. Steamed Rice, Molded and Garnished
with Cherries 245
Strawberry Compote. Orange Surprise 258
Choux Pastry. Strawberry Charlotte . . ... 259
Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. Cucumbers and Cress . 266
Tomatoes and Endive Salad, Garnished with Capers. Pond
Lily Salad 267
Hawaiian Salad. Grape Salad in Tent 274
A Spring Luncheon Table, with Violets for the Centerpiece,
laid with the Service Plates, and ready for the
Soup Service 275
Potatoes, French Fried. Stuffed Eggplant . 286
Apples and Sweet Potatoes. A Christmas Garnish for the
Mashed Potatoes 287
Celery Croquettes. Shad Roe Croquettes . . . 330
Lentils Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. Green
Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower 331
A Souffle Tin. Raspberry Jelly. 358
Acorn Cakes. Devil's Food Pudding 359
Flag Cakes. Date Sandwiches . .... 376
Red and White Currant and Raspberry. Cherry Salad . 377
PREFACE
In compiling this cook book the pages of Good House-
keeping have been freely drawn upon. To the following
experts our readers are especially indebted :
DR. Louis M. HALL, Market Specialist for the Federal
Department of Agriculture.
MR. WILLIAM B. HARRIS, Coffee Expert for the Fed-
eral Department of Agriculture.
Miss BERTHA E. SHAPLEIGH, School of Cookery,
Teachers College, New York City.
MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN, Author of the Boston Cook
Book.
MRS. LINDA HULL LARNED, Author of Hostess of
To-day.
Miss HELEN LOUISE JOHNSON, Chairman of Home
Economics Section of National Federation of Women's
Clubs.
RILEY M. FLETCHER BERRY, Author of Fruit Recipes.
PROFESSOR B. E. POWELL, Editor of Publications,
Illinois College of Agriculture.
MILDRED MADDOCKS.
IMPORTANT NEW FEATURES
Blank pages are provided at the end of each chapter in
order that each owner of the Pure Food Cook Book
may increase its value.
Write or paste in the proper place your favorite old
recipes, as well as the best m-w recipes that you find.
The publishers will be pleased to receive suggestions to
be included in future editions of the book.
GOOD COOKING
BY
H. W. WILEY
GOOD COOKING*
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
WO or three years ago I drove with some
friends through the vineyards of Burgundy,
along that hillside which, because of its great
agricultural wealth, is called the Cote d'Or,
the hill of gold. Late in the afternoon we
drove over the crest of the hill where there
were no longer vines, but undulating fields of
grain and grass. At sundown, high upon a h:llside, we
came to a peasant's cot. The peasant with his family
were at supper. They were not expecting visitors and
we were not expecting to be visitors. They invited us
to supper. The peasant's wife did not do as my mother
used to when I was a boy, when we were at supper and
the minister came into the lane. In such a case she
would take away the corn mush and sorghum molasses
and skimmed milk and get out the loaf of bread, the
preserves and jams, and the chickens would come and
lay their heads upon the block ready for the ax. All in
honor of the minister. The peasant's wife did not put
anything on the table she did not have there when we
came in, only more of it. And such bread ! the whole
wheat grown in the field nearby and ground in the old-
fashioned windmill in plain sight. The wheat was not
deprived of all of its most important mineral ingredients
* The special articles by Dr. Wiley herein have been written
expressly for " The Pure Food Cook Book."
3
4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
by bolting and sifting. It was just what nature made
it. The vegetables were crisp from the garden and the
butter and milk from the spring-house nearby ; and the
cold lamb had never known the rigors of cold storage,
but a day or two before was feeding on the aromatic
grass of the hillside. The cooking was perfect. It was
a feast fit for Lucullus. And this condition of affairs
can be found in every part of France ; good cooks are
not the exceptions. They are the rule among the coun-
try people of that great country. And who has ever
heard of a divorce in rural France? It is unknown.
Occasionally we read of divorces in French cities but
never among the peasantry of the fields. \Yliy should
anyone want to get a divorce when he is so well pro-
vided with simple and well-cooked food? There is
nothing which is more conducive to tranquillity and hap-
piness than good cooking. Unfortunately it is not con-
sidered good form to be a cook. The girls of our country
are set down at a piano at six years of age and compelled
to pound ivory five hours a day for fifteen years, unless
in sheer desperation they should run off with the chauf-
feur. And when they have finished this long and ex-
pensive course someone comes along and invents a
pianolo or victrola that plays better music in a minute
than a girl does after fifteen years of study. She is
robbed of all her glory. But suppose she had spent
fifteen years in learning to cook. Who could rob her of
that glory ? No one. It would remain a blessing to
her, her parents, her husband, and her children for her
whole life.
What we need in this country is fewer pianos and
more stoves. With a good cook in every household,
and preferably not a hired one, the divorce mills of the
country might as well shut up ; they would have nothing
GOOD COOKING 5
more to do. Domestic life would be peaceful, happy,
and unbroken. We must get away from the idea that
cooking is drudgery. There is no drudgery, except in
the mind. The man who goes out and breaks stone
evenly so that a lasting road can be built over which
future generations may pass with comfort and safety is
not a drudge ; he is an artist. The boy wrho goes out
into the field and plows a straight and deep furrow in
which more corn will grow is not a drudge. He is an
artist ; and the girl who goes into the kitchen and cooks
a meal that is good, that tastes well, that is properly bal-
anced and properly served is no drudge ; she is an
artist. The attitude is the principal thing in this mat-
ter. If one has the spirit of the artist, the mere physical
exertion which is necessary to paint the picture is no
longer feared nor dreaded.
A cook book such as this will do much to stimulate
the artistic spirit in the cook, and thus make her forget
the warmth of the kitchen, the heat of the fire, and the
manipulations necessary to success. She has before her
her canvas; she is painting on it a picture; that picture is
the finished meal. She has the enthusiasm of art. There
is no place for the depressing sense of fatigue.
Good cooking is also one of the fundamental principles
of good health. This country has an abundance of food.
There is no country in the world that has so much in
proportion to the population ; and there are few coun-
tries, I imagine, where so large a percentage of it is
spoiled in the kitchen, before it reaches the table. What
an infinite blessing it would be to all the people of this
country if that spoiling of the food in the kitchen could
be stopped ! How much of comfort, good health, and
happiness that would imply. How great the economy
which it would work. The cook who " knows how ' is
6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
the economical cook. And the food that is properly
prepared for the table is the food which in the end costs
less and goes further than any other. The high cost
of living would have no terrors for the good cook who
liked the simple and nutritious dishes.
Good Housekeeping in its ministration, looking to the
betterment of the food supply and the increasing excel-
lence of cooking, is doing a world's service which will
be only measured by the gratitude of the millions who
are benefited by its work. \Ye have Good Housekeep-
ing stores that are selling foods approved by Good
Housekeeping and the household utensils which receive
the approbation of its Institute. \Ye now want to com-
plete that work by instituting Good Housekeeping
kitchens in which the mistress of the kitchen will know
the principles of nutrition as well as the technique of
cooking. She will know how to select her foods for
the purpose for which they are intended, namely, to
restore waste, build tissue, and furnish heat and energy.
Every meal will be selected for its fundamental proper-
ties and then prepared with an art which will render
each component of the food more completely assimilable
and useful. Thus at the same time the Good House-
keeping kitchen will minister to the taste and to the
nutrition of the body. It is not necessarily scientific
cooking in the strictest sense of that art, but it is rather
artistic cooking in the broadest sense of that word. It
is that form of equipment which will enable one to first
select the foods best suited for the purpose and then
manipulate them with skill to fulfill that purpose more
completely.
A cook book, therefore, should be not a mere cata-
logue of recipes. This cook book is more than that. It
is a selection of means to an end, skillfully adapted to
GOOD COOKING 7
its purpose, and made as attractive as possible. The
cook who is interested in this matter sufficiently to catch
the spirit of the book will find her work lessened, her
joy increased, and the benefits of her ministrations
enjoyed.
THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS
AKING out the bills of fare for the three hun-
dred and sixty-five days of the year is a bug-
bear to many a woman. This feeling is apt
to come from trying to plan at the wrong time.
Few women can stand before an ice-box con-
taining the remnants of ' gone-before meals,"
immediately after eating one, and plan out the
next meal with zest or any great success. But take your
pad and pencil and all the cook books you have. First
look through these and put down under their respective
headings those dishes which seem to you practicable or
desirable for any of the three meals. Then plan the
meals for a week, making out the probable market lists
at the same time. Then when you stand before the ice-
box with this week's bill of fare in your hand, you can
adjust the meals to suit the exigencies of left-overs or lack
of them, or to the incidents of company and unexpected
changes.
By this plan you will soon find your meals more varied,
the cost should be lessened, and it is actually easier to
plan better meals for less money in this way than to do
so each day by itself. Of course you must make yourself
familiar with the market supplies, and know how to
choose.
Knowing how to choose involves the whole subject of
nutrition, and most housekeepers quail before its neces-
sarily scientific rules and formulas. But there are little,
common, everyday things which are great helps. For
9
io THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
instance, there is an understood rule that any one food
shall not be used twice in any form. That is, it is quite
out of place to have chicken soup and boiled fowl in tli
same meal ; the connection is too obvious. This rule is ..
good one to use in planning the day's meals at any time
Eggs, certain kinds of meat or fish, should not be re-
peated ; tomatoes stewed for luncheon should not be
served again in that meal. This rule is applicable all
through and leads to the oft-repeated one which calls for
the disguising of left-overs. Every meal should be a
creation.
Any one meal should not be colorless or flat. Do not
serve more than one creamed dish. A cream soup, and
baked custards for dessert is another example of this,
for both would be white and creamy and as both in
color and flavor the dinner would be flat and tasteless, it
could not attract nor stimulate the appetite. Care always
should be taken to aid digestion by the appearance as
well as the flavor of the food. Within reasonable limits,
dietetic errors do far less damage if the food is enjoyed
when eaten.
With fish, especially the fat fish, should be served some
vegetable, sauce, or condiment acid in its nature, or to
which acid is added. When spinach is served with
fish, the inference is that vinegar will be used with it.
Hot slaw is preferable to creamed cabbage, and cauliflower
should be served with a hollandaise in place of a cream
sauce, when either accompanies fish. It is often very
difficult to accomplish this proper serving of vegetables
with certain dinner dishes, and this is especially true
when no meat is used. Fish and meat substitutes are
flat, and the feeling induced by the thought of them
indicates a tart accompaniment.
Where there are no small children at the table a soup
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JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS n
or a salad served with each dinner would be preferable
to a dessert. Desserts are often unnecessary, taking
more time, labor, and money than they return in food
value. Often they add the extra proteid or carbohydrate
which overloads the digestive organs. After a hearty
dinner, an egg dessert, for instance, containing sufficient
nourishment for the main dish of luncheon, is out of
place. If, when planning, you can say to yourself,
There are two cupfuls of milk, three or four eggs,
sugar, etc., in that dessert, and that is all unnecessary,"
you will find yourself planning more and more simple,
wholesome things. Where the family at table consists of
adults they are many times, far better oft" with two pieces
of candy, or a sweet cracker with a cup of clear after-
dinner coffee, than with any made dessert.
Baked or stewed apples, apple sauce, or apple dump-
lings are better and cheaper than apple pie, but most of
us like apple pie, and should have it as a reward of
virtue once in a while. But why take time, labor, and
material to make an under crust for a custard baked in
a pie tin, instead of in cups, without any crust? They
are less expensive and more wholesome in the cup form.
Where there are growing children at the table desserts
are required as vehicles for the fats and sugar needed
in their diet.
In planning the dinner the question of soups is an im-
portant one. Where fresh meat is to be served or dishes
containing considerable food value, the soup should be a
clear one. There is little food value to soup stock, but
clear soup acts as a stimulant to the digestion and pre-
pares the way for the rest of the dinner. Cream soups
of any kind are nutritious, and should be employed for
dinner when there is a lack in the rest of the bill of fare.
This is why cream soups are suggested for luncheon so
12 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
often and with little else. A well-made cream soup, with
crackers or bread, followed by a dessert or fresh or
stewed fruit with plain cake, cookies, or gingerbread is
all that is needed for an adequate luncheon.
Any left-overs may often be used in the making of
soups. Where the midday meal is merely luncheon, not
a luncheon-dinner, planned for the children, the left-overs
should be utilized and served then.
In no department of cooking is skill more needed than
in making over dishes — hashes, in reality. The basis
for most reheated meats, fish, and vegetables is a sauce
of some kind. Master the making of sauces and one is
master of the well-made entree. Remember, it is not
the simplicity of the bill of fare, but how its dishes are
cooked and served, that makes of the meal a feast.
What to Serve for Breakfast
Fruit may be .served at every breakfast, but do not
serve acid fruits like oranges and grapefruit when a
cereal is served.
Serve plain foods simply cooked.
Serve home cooked, coarse cereals with eggs.
Serve baked potatoes with creamed fish.
Serve creamed potatoes with smoked fish.
Serve creamed potatoes with lamb chops.
Serve nuts and dates, or figs, with cereal in place
of meat.
Do not serve elaborate made dishes for breakfast.
What to Serve for Luncheon
Use the left-overs for luncheon.
Serve a soup with waffles or griddle cakes for dessert.
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 13
It will be an innovation in some families, but the waffles
are even better than at breakfast.
Or serve a made-meat dish, a salad, and a dessert.
Serve mayonnaise with egg, meat, fish, or shellfish
salads. Also with the more delicate vegetable salads, as
tomato, asparagus, or celery.
Serve a boiled salad dressing with vegetable salads.
Serve French dressing with all green salads.
Serve plain lemon with all fat fish, as salmon, herring,
mackerel — or a green salad with French dressing.
Serve a rich butter sauce or hollandaise \vith the white
fish like halibut, cusk, haddock, and smelts.
Tomatoes may be served with fish in place of lemon.
What to Serve for Dinner
The following combinations may be helpful in plan-
ning the family dinner : they all are correct in supplying a
well-balanced meal.
Serve a clear soup, meat, potatoes, or a starchy vege-
table like rice or hominy, a green vegetable, and dessert.
Or meat, potatoes or a substitute, a salad, and dessert.
Or a cream soup, a made dish of meat and potatoes, and
dessert.
With roast meats serve potatoes mashed, or roasted
in the pan with the meat.
With fricasseed meats, serve baked potatoes.
Serve potatoes plain boiled, only when new.
With broiled steak, serve creamed potatoes and a crisp
fried vegetable like eggplant.
With roast pork, serve baked potatoes, a green vege-
table, and a sour apple sauce.
With roast beef, serve potatoes baked in the pan and
a sweet watermelon or peach pickle.
Any vegetable harmonizes with beef.
14 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
\Yith roast chicken, serve mashed potato, onions, and
a sour jelly.
With roast lamb, serve mashed potato, green peas or
string beans, and a mint sauce.
Serve caper sauce only with mutton.
Serve tomatoes, in some form, with veal.
For dinner salads, use only the simple green salads,
with French dressing.
What to Serve for Supper
Use made dishes for supper as well as for luncheon.
I'se at least one hot dish in winter.
Serve a cream M>up followed by waffles.
Do not serve a cream soup followed by a salad.
Salads may be used at supper in warm weather.
Choose a vegetable or meat salad, using boiled dressing
or mayonnaise.
Serve pickles or a sour sauce with baked beans if there
be any pork baked with them.
Serve cakes or cookies, with fruit, for dessert at supper.
SPRING MENUS— MARCH
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Bacon and potato omelet
Corn muffins
Coffee
Luncheon
Banana and nut salad
Hot biscuit Currant cake
Tea
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 15
Dinner
Cream of lettuce soup
Lamb chops
Stuffed potatoes Peas
Steamed pudding with vanilla sauce
Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Baked beans Brown bread
Fish balls
Coffee
Dinner
Chicken pie
Sweet potato croquettes
Cauliflower
Cheese and red pepper salad
Coffee ice cream, marshmallow sauce
Snow cake
Coffee
Supper
Spinach omelet
Currant buns Preserves
Gold cake
Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Stewed apricots
Uncooked cereal
Omelet Rolls
Coffee
i6
THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Baked bean soup
Toasted brown bread
Apple sauce
Gingerbread
Tea
Dinner
Beef a la mode
Mashed potatoes
Red cabbage
Nut pie
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
1 lananas
Cereal
Fried fish
Biscuit
Coffee
Luncheon
Bread griddle cakes
Cup cakes Tea
Dinner
Shepherd pic
String beans Squash
Fruit jelly Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Grapes
Cereal
Bacon
Toast
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS
Luncheon
Cream tomato soup
Muffins
Preserves
Tea
Dinner
Boiled mutton, caper sauce
Mashed potatoes Turnips
Lima beans
Hawaiian salad
Coffee
THURSDAY
Rolls
Cake
Breakfast
Apples
Creamed dried beef
Baked potatoes
Luncheon
Sausages
Muffins
Sliced oranges
Dinner
Coffee
Tea
Onion soup
Scalloped mutton
Potato croquettes
Baked squash
Lettuce salad, French dressing
Apple pie Coffee
i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
Cereal
Poached eggs
Coffee
Luncheon
Vegetable soup
Crisp crackers
Jellied prunes
Cookies Tea
Dinner
Uaked stuffed haddock with hollandaise sauce
Boiled potatoes Spinach
Tomato jelly salad
Chocolate nut blancmange
Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with figs
Muttered toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Rice with cheese
Fruit cakes Cocoa
Dinner
Tomato soup
Hamburg steak
Carrots and peas in potato cases
Watercress
Baked rice pudding
Coffee
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JUST HOW TO PLAX THE MEXUS 19
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Bacon and buckwheat cakes
Coffee
Dinner
Roast turkey Cranberry sauce
Mashed potatoes Onions
Celery Baked squash
Mince pie Coffee
Supper
Orange, nut and raisin salad
Hot biscuit
Chocolate layer cake
Tea
SPRING MENUS— APRIL
MONDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
Scrambled eggs Biscuit
Coffee
Luncheon
Corn chowder
Preserves Ginger snaps
Tea
Dinner
Roast pork
Apple sauce Celery
Mashed potato Squash
Orange jelly
Coffee
20 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with bananas
Creamed fish Rolls
Coffee
Luncheon
Eggs and celery
Xut bread
Cake Tea
Dinner
Cold roast pork
Baked potatoes Apple sauce
Onions Turnips
Rice pudding
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
(Iriddle cakes and syrup
Coffee
Luncheon
Cream toast
Baked apples with nuts Molasses cookies
Tea
Dinner
Cannclon of beef
Riced potatoes Shell beans
Lettuce with French dressing
Fruit roll
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 21
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Cereal
Broiled bacon
Corn muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Macaroni and cheese
Sliced oranges
Almond cake
Tea
Dinner
Lamb chops
Mint potatoes Peas
Apple and celery salad
Caramel bread pudding
Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with figs
Buttered toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Egg salad
Clam fritters Preserves
Cake Tea
Dinner
Baked shad
Potatoes hollandaise
Cucumbers Scalloped tomatoes
Apple pie Cheese
Coffee
22 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Apples and sausage
Baked potatoes
Rolls Coffee
Luncheon
Cold roast beef
Lyonnaise potatoes
Pickles
Dutch apple cake
Tea
Dinner
Irish stew with dumplings
Cheese and nlivc -alad
Fruit jelly
Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit marmalade
Boiled eggs Biscuit
Coffee
Dinner
Roast beef
Potatoes baked in pan
Celery Squash
Asparagus salad
Vienna peach parfait
Sponge cake Coffee
Supper
Oyster patties
Preserves Chocolate cake
Tea
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 23
MONDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Uncooked cereal
Broiled honeycomb tripe
Graham rolls Coffee
Luncheon
Banana and nut salad
Biscuit Preserves
Sugar cookies
Tea
Dinner
Roast beef in Mexican sauce
Boiled potatoes Spinach
Steamed chocolate pudding with creamy sauce
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Stewed prunes
Omelet
Toast Coffee
Luncheon
Cream tomato soup
Croutons
Maple gingerbread
Tea
Dinner
Roast stuffed veal
Mashed potatoes Lettuce
Succotash
Lemon sherbet
Cake Coffee
24 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
SPRING MENUS— MAY
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with figs and cream
Crisp bacon
Muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Vegetable salad
Corn sticks Cold sliced ham
Fruit Cookies
Dinner
Broiled steak
Mashed potatoes Peas
Lettuce with dressing
Spanish cream
Chocolate sponge cake
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Eggs baked in casseroles
Hominy muffins
Coffee
Luncheon
Spanish fricassee of chicken
Rolls
Bananas and cream
Cookies Tea
Dinner
Clear soup with croutons
Potroast of beef
Boiled potatoes Brown gravy
String beans
JUST HOW TO PLAX THE MEXUS 25
Spiced rice pudding
Small coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Cereal with cream
Broiled bacon Rye muffins
Coffee
Luncheon
Scalloped salmon
Dandelion and mint salad
Gingerbread
Cream cheese
Dinner
Mackerel (baked in paper bag)
Baked potatoes Peas
Tomato salad
Steamed fruit pudding with hard sauce
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Baked rhubarb with orange
Fish hash
Corn bread Coffee
Luncheon
Escalloped potatoes and eggs
Dandelion salad
Sugar cookies Tea
Dinner
Panned mutton chops
Mashed potato Creamed onions
Radishes
Ginger cream
Lady fingers
26 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Sliced oranges
Omelet
Sally Lunns Coffee
Dinner
Roast beef
Potatoes baked in pan
Celery Asparagus on toast
Ice cream with maple sauce
Small cakes Small coffee
Supper
Shrimp mystery in charing dish
Toast
Sponge cake Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Country sausage
Bread-crumb griddle cakes with syrup
Coffee
Luncheon
Cream of celery soup
Crisp crackers
Potato salad Cheese balls
Preserved peaches Cake
Dinner
Roast beef (reheated)
Potato puff Spanish onions
Rhubarb tarts Small coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 27
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with dates and cream
Broiled finnan haddie
Plain muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Potato omelet
Lettuce with French dressing
Fruit dumplings Tea
Dinner
Veal in casserole with vegetables
Succotash Celery
Orange and lemon sherbet
Cake Small coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Fruit
Cereal with cream
Crisp bacon Potato cakes
Toast Coffee
Luncheon
Macaroni with sausages
Apple and celery salad
Cookies Tea
Dinner .
Roast beef pie
Spinach Tomato salad
Pineapple Bavarian cream
Small coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Fruit Cereal
28 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Boiled eggs Coffee
Luncheon
Baked sliced ham
Preserves Small cakes
Orange Pekoe tea
Dinner
Beef stew with dumplings
String beans
Tomato and horseradish salad
Crackers
Charlotte russe Small coffee
SUMMER MENUS— JUNE
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Strawberries and cream
Baked eggs Bacon curls
Raised muffins Coffee
Dinner
Mock bisque soup
Roast lamb Brown gravy
Mashed potatoes
Fresh asparagus with drawn butter
Vanilla ice cream
Strawberry sauce Coffee
Supper
Fruit salad
Cream mayonnaise
Toast Chocolate
MONDAY
Breakfast
Fruit
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 29
Baked salt mackerel
Graham muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Poached eggs with asparagus
Cookies Tea
Dinner
Lamb timbales
Creamed carrots Baked potatoes
Lemon bread pudding
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Strawberries Cereal
Bacon Corn cake
Coffee
Luncheon
Luncheon cheese
Strawberries
Cake Tea
Dinner
Cream of pea soup
Broiled steak
Fried potatoes Lettuce salad
Cream cheese Wafers
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges sliced
Minced lamb on toast
Hot rolls Coffee
30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Sausages with bananas
Graham toast
Tea
Dinner
Tomato soup
Crisp crackers Baked stuffed shad
Potato balls
Maitre d'hutcl butter
Sponge cake with whipped cream
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Stewed prune-
Boiled shad roe
Corn muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Scalloped fish in shells
Rye biscuit
Cocoa
Dinner
Potato soup
Tongue in casserole
Boiled new potatoes
Buttered string bean-
Strawberry parfait Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Sliced bananas
Creamed codfish on toast
Corn cake Coffee
Luncheon
Egg salad
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 31
Cheese breadsticks
Cookies Tea
Dinner
Clam chowder
Baked halibut
Hashed brown potatoes
Sliced cucumbers Chiffonade dressing
Caramel custard Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with cream
Broiled ham Fried potatoes
Toast Coffee
Luncheon
Curried eggs
Rice border
Cake Coffee
Dinner
Cream of fish soup
Cold tongue with jellied vegetables
Baked macaroni
Gingerbread Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Hominy and cream
Fish balls and bacon
Parker House rolls
Coffee
Dinner
Planked salmon with potato balls
Fresh asparagus on cream toast
32 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Fresh cherry pie Coffee
Supper
Welsh rarebit
Pineapple salad
Cream cheese Crackers
MONDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Cereal with cream Plain omelet
Muffins Coffee
Dinner
Casserole of lamb
I'.oiled new potatoes
Tomato and olive salad with mayonnaise
Toasted crackers
Xut tapioca Coffee
Supper
Cold deviled eggs
Not rolls
Strawberries and cream
Cocoa
SUMMER MENUS— JULY
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Raspberries and cream
Cereal Muffins
Broiled bacon Coffee
Luncheon
Codfish puff
Sliced tomatoes Rolls
Iced tea Wafers
§
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53
q
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s
JUST HOW TO PLAX THE MENUS 33
Dinner
Broiled lamb chops
Currant mint sauce
Boiled rice
Tomato and lettuce salad
Blancmange with raspberry sauce
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal with cream
Plain omelet Toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Finnan haddie on toast
Muffins
Gingerbread Tea
Dinner
Clear soup
Baked ham
New buttered potatoes
Swiss chard
Stuffed tomato salad
Crackers Coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Sliced bananas
Scrambled eggs on toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Cold sliced ham
Cream toast
Cocoa
34 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Dinner
Roast lamb Mint sauce
Roasted potatoes
Green string beans
Lettuce salad
Chili dressing
Caramel bread pudding
Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Raspberries
Boiled cooked ham
(left fmni Wednesday)
Creamed potatm^ Hut rolls
Coffee
Dinner
Consomme, garnish of rice and red peppers
I laked halibut
Fre>h -reen peas
Xe\v buttered potatoes
Dre»ed cucumbers
•
Vanilla ice cream
Hot chocolate sauce
Cake Coffee
Supper
Shrimp and green pea salad
Lettuce sandwiches
Fruit punch Cake
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Stewed rhubarb
Minced lamb on toast
Biscuit^ Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 35
Luncheon
Eggs in baked potatoes
Popovers Tea
Dinner
Mock bisque soup
Creamed salmon in shells
Rice timbales
Vegetable salad with mayonnaise
Lemon bread pudding Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Hominy and cream
Fish balls Baked beans
Rolls Coffee
Dinner
Clear soup
Baked chicken with stuffing
Mashed potato
Boiled Bermuda onions
Romaine salad
Cheese Crackers
Raspberry shortcake Coffee
Supper (Company)
Creamed crab meat (in charing dish)
Toast Ripe olives
Mint punch Cake
MONDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal
Omelet Muffins
Coffee
36 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Dinner
Cream of onion soup
Potroast of beef
Scalloped tomatoes
Baked macaroni
Fruit Crackers and cheese
Supper
Jellied chicken and eggs
Hot biscuits
Gingerbread with marshmallow sauce
Tea
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Currants
1 'cached eggs on toast
Coffee
Dinner
Haked .Muffed fish
Sliced cucumbers
I'Yench fried potatoes
Scall< iped eggplant
Graham torte
Coffee
Supper
Cold potroast of beef
Jellied vegetable- Baked potatoes
Soft custard
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Beef hash Corn muffins
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 37
Dinner
Veal cutlet, brown sauce
Green peas Mashed potatoes
Tomato salad
Cold cabinet pudding
Coffee
Supper
Fish croquettes with tomato sauce
Rolls
Macedoine of fruit
SUMMER MENUS— AUGUST
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Blueberries
Broiled fresh mackerel
Corn muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Scrambled eggs on cream toast
Blueberry cake
Cocoa
Dinner
Tomato and corn soup
Baked halibut with hollandaise sauce
Boiled potatoes Green peas
Apricot pie Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal
Shirred eggs
Blueberry muffins Coffee
38 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Salad of halibut and peas with piquant mayonnaise
Rolls Iced tea
Cookies
Dinner
Boiled fowl with celery sauce
Rice Green corn on cob
Tomato and cucumber salad
Lemon pudding
Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Cantaloupe
1 lominy and cream
Fish balls and bacon
Hot rolls Coffee
Dinner
Cream of lettuce soup
Roast lamb
Currant jelly sauce
Riced potatoes
Baked, stuffed tomatoes
Frozen apricots Coffee
Supper
Chicken rechauffe (charing dish)
Graham bread and butter
Preserved figs Iced tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal and cream
Creamed dried beef
Corn cake Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 39
Luncheon
Baked beans (reheated)
Toasted graham bread
Cocoa — hot or iced
Dinner
Cold roast lamb
Potato croquettes
Scalloped eggplant
Blueberry pie Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Baked sweet apples with cream
Toast Broiled bacon
Coffee
Luncheon
Luncheon cheese
Sliced tomatoes with French dressing
Tea Cookies
Dinner
Spanish fricassee of chicken
Green corn on cob
Lettuce salad
Cream cheese with currant jelly
Wafers Cold caramel custard
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Minced lamb on toast
Plain muffins
Coffee
40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Scalloped chicken and corn
Toast Cocoa
Dinner
Chicken soup
Broiled steak
Maked stuffed tomatoes
Mashed potatoes
I Jaked blueberry pudding with Munroe sauce
Coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Blackberries
Calves' livrr and hacon
Sour cream biscuit Coffee
Luncheon
I -"scallop of tureen corn
Sliced cucuniher-;
Fresh rolls
Tea Cake
Dinner
Vegetable soup
Veal loaf
Boiled macaroni and tomato sauce
Spinach
Coffee ice cream
Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Cooked cereal
Baked eggs
Muffins Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 41
Luncheon
Cold ham
Spinach salad and mayonnaise
Rolls Cocoa
Dinner
Tomato soup with macaroni
Baked stuffed bluefish
Fried potatoes Creamed cucumbers
Grape juice souffle
Coffee
SATURDAY
Toast
Breakfast
Blueberries
Broiled cooked ham
Luncheon
Scalloped fish in shells
Peanut butter pinwheels
Iced coffee
Dinner
Cream of cucumber soup
Broiled chops
Baked creamed potatoes
Green corn
Tomato and lettuce salad
Rolled, toasted sandwiches
Coffee
Coffee
AUTUMN MENUS— SEPTEMBER
MONDAY
Breakfast
Cooked cereal
42 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Poached eggs on toast
Coffee
Dinner
Tomato soup ( without stock)
Crisp crackers
11 roiled steak
Hashed potatoes Fried summer squash
Apple pie Coffee
Supper
Cold corned beef
Vegetable salad Bread
1 Vadu'-> — sliced
Cake Tea
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Raspberries (late) and cream
Broiled tomatoes on cream toast
Coffee
Dinner
Cream of cucumber ><>up
Cold sliced lamb
Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes
Cherry tapioca
Coffee
Supper
Corn chowder (green corn)
Hot gingerbread
Cottage cheese
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 43
Fried corn meal mush
Bacon Coffee
Dinner
Clear soup
Roast chicken
Green corn Boiled rice
Orange salad
Sour cream pie
Supper
Lamb souffle
Fresh rolls
Macedoine of fruit
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Cooked cereal
Creamed dried beef
Toast Coffee
Dinner
Vegetable soup
Lamb chops Turkish pilaf
Fried eggplant
Blueberry pie Coffee
Supper
Lobster and spinach salad
Rolls
Iced tea Cookies
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples and cream
Bacon and potato omelet
Coffee Rolls (reheated)
44 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Dinner
Chicken and corn soup
Baked bluefish
Dressed sliced cucumbers
Pear condet Coffee
Supper
I'.aked chicken hash
Sliced tomatoes
Sponge cake Iced tea
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal
Sliced bananas and cream
Muffins Coffee
Dinner
Roast beef
Franconia potatoes
Scalloped s<|uash
Tomato and lettuce salad with French dressing
I lanana compote Coffee
Supper
Baked beans
Steamed brown bread
Custards
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Cantaloupe
Fish balls
Parker House rolls
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 45
Dinner (Company)
Consomme
Chicken Marengo (served in small casseroles)
Green corn on cob
Fried summer squash
Dressed lettuce
0
Cream cheese Bar-le-duc
Peach ice cream
Coffee
Supper
Crab and tomato salad with mayonnaise
Rolls (reheated)
Grape juice punch
MONDAY
Breakfast
Sliced peaches
Uncooked cereal and cream
Scrambled eggs
Toast and coffee
Luncheon
Fried tomatoes on toast
Hot gingerbread
Cottage cheese Tea
Dinner
Corn and tomato soup
Baked shoulder of lamb with currant mint sauce
Green peas and pimientos
Mashed potatoes
Peach ice cream
Coffee
46 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
TUESDAY §
Breakfast
Stewed prunes
Creamed chicken on toast
(chicken left from Sunday)
Muffins Coffee
Luncheon
Lamb broth llaked corn custard
Popovers
Cake Cocoa
Dinner
Steak a la Stanley
Jlaked potatoes
Lima beans
Spinach salad
Spanish cream Coffee
AUTUMN MENUS— OCTOBER
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Pears and grapes
Hominy and cream
Plain omelet
Popovers Coffee
Luncheon
Cream of rice soup
Toasted crackers
Cold ham with lettuce salad
Bread and butter folds Cocoa
Dinner
Clear soup with spaghetti
Roast veal ( loin )
JUST HOir TO PLAN THE MEXUS 47
Sour cream gravy
Mashed potatoes
Scalloped eggplant and tomato
Romaine salad ChifTonade dressing
Apple pie Cheese
Coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Oranges Uncooked cereal
Cream toast Boiled bacon
Coffee
Luncheon
Scalloped eggs and potatoes
Fresh rolls
Sliced peaches Tea
Dinner
Cream of tomato soup
Croutons Cold sliced veal
Baked potatoes
Creamed cauliflower
Spanish cream Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast .
Grapefruit (removed from shell)
Creamed ham on toast
Rolls (reheated) Coffee
Luncheon
Sardines with potato salad
Toast Cocoa
Dinner
Boiled cod Hollandaise sauce
48 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Potato rissolees
Buttered beets
Cabbage and celery salad
Baked caramel custard Caramel sauce
Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Stewed prune-
Cooked cereal with cream
Fish hash
Corn cake Coffee
Luncheon
Creamed veal in ma.shed potato border
Hot biscuits
Fruitcake Tea
Dinner
Fish soup ( S \vedi >h)
Broiled steak French fried potatoes
Baked stuffed onions Celery
Cold cabinet pudding
Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Grapes Hominy and cream
Fish balls
Parker House rolls
Coffee
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JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 49
Dinner
Consomme
Olives Celery
Rolled fillets of flounder creamed
Lobster sauce
Roast lamb Currant jelly
Roasted potatoes Creamed turnips
Peach ice cream Coffee
Supper
Lobster salad Ripe olives
Bread and butter sandwiches
Cake Coffee
MONDAY
Breakfast
Sliced pears with cream
Poached egg with cream
Coffee
Dinner
Casserole of beef stew
Lettuce and tomato salad
Steamed fig pudding
Foamy sauce
Supper
Cream of corn soup
Crisp crackers
Lettuce and beet salad with mayonnaise
Hot biscuits
Gingerbread Tea
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Cereal (uncooked)
50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Sliced bananas and cream
Corn muffins Bacon
Coffee
Dinner
Boiled tongue
I 'lain builed potatoes
Scalloped cabbage l.eet and green pepper salad
Brown Hetty Coffee
Supper
Eggs and celery Creamed potatoes
Making powder biscuits
Preserved figs
Cake Tea
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
1 )ranges
Minced lamb on toast
Muffins Coffee
Dinner
Cream of cabbage soup (made from left-over
-cal loped cabbage i
Salmi of lamb Stuffed baked potatoes
Fried eggplant
Prune whip Custard sauce
Supper
Cold tongue Potato salad
Rolls
Baked pears with Hanger Brownies
Tea
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Stewed figs Uncooked cereal
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 51
Baked eggs Corn muffins
Coffee
Dinner
Cream of pea soup
Baked sliced ham
Turkish pilaf Green string beans
Orange and mint salad
Custard souffle
Supper
Cheese pudding
Popovers
String bean and pimiento salad
Cocoa shells Cake
AUTUMN MENUS— NOVEMBER
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples with cream
Buckwheat cakes
Maple syrup Coffee
Luncheon
Minced lamb on toast
Baked potatoes
Fruit Cocoa
Dinner
Tomato soup
Veal cutlets in casserole
Scalloped tomatoes
Lettuce and cream cheese salad
Pumpkin pie Coffee
52 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Hominy and cream
Baked sausages
Waffles
Coffee
Dinner
Clear soup
Roast capon, giblet gravy
Cranberry relish Southern sweet peppers
Baked stuffed potatoes
Caramel ice cream
Cake Coffee
Supper
Milk rabbit
Olives Pickles
Lemon sticks
Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Uncooked cereal
Scrambled eggs with bacon
Muffins Coffee
Luncheon
French toast
Chocolate
Dinner
Creole soup (using remainder of peppers and stuffing)
Meat balls, curried rice
Peas Onion salad
Bread and butter pudding
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS
53
TUESDAY
Cake
Breakfast
Stewed apples
Date muffins
Coffee
Luncheon
Cold chicken
Hot rolls
Asparagus salad
Dinner
Broiled lamb chops
Delmonico potatoes
Green string beans
Orange salad
Cheese souffle
Coffee
Tea
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges, sliced
Minced chicken on toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Summer hot pot
Gingerbread Tea
Dinner
Cream of pea soup
Roast loin of pork
Apple sauce
Roasted potatoes Creamed onions
Prune souffle
Coffee
54 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Sliced bananas
Oatmeal and cream
Bacon Eggs to order
Coffee
Luncheon
Cream of onion soup
Crisp crackers
Pear salad, cream mayonnaise
Rolls Cocoa
Dinner
Chicken soup with rice
Cold roast pork (gravy reheated)
Browned sweet potatoes
r.aked squash
Apple fritters, vanilla sauce
Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Creamed codfish
Johnnycake
Baked potatoes
Coffee
Luncheon
Salmon salad
Popovers
Baked custard
Tea
•
Dinner
Plain tomato soup
Baked cod, oyster stuffing
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS
55
Mock hollandaise
French fried potatoes
Lettuce salad, chili dressing
Toasted crackers Cheese
Coffee
SATURDAY
Muffins
Breakfast
Stewed prunes
Bacon omelet
Luncheon
Scalloped fish
Steamed brown bread
Sliced oranges
Coffee
Cookies
Tea
Hot rolls
Crackers
Dinner
Mock pork
Cheeese
Fruit salad
Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples with cream
Fish balls
Brown bread
Waffles Coffee
Dinner
Consomme with noodles
Roast beef, horseradish sauce
Roasted potatoes Boiled buttered onions
Molded tomato salad
Crackers Cheese
56 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
Cold cabinet pudding
Coffee
Supper
Chicken salad
Lettuce sandwiches
Chocolate nut wafers Preserves
Tea
WINTER MENUS— DECEMBER
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Stewed apricot- Uncooked cereal
Scrambled eggs
1 '.uttered toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Sweil potato toast
Apple sauce Cookies
Tea
Dinner
Boiled halibut
Hollandaise sauce
Potatoes with parsley String beans
Apple pie Cheese
Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Grapes Cereal
Bacon Creamed potatoes
Coffee
Luncheon
Stuffed sweet potatoes
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 57
Biscuits Preserves
Tea
Dinner
Braised tongue, caper sauce
Mashed potatoes Parsnip fritters
Creamed lima beans
Mock cherry pie Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Uncooked cereal Cream toast
Coffee
Dinner
Beefsteak with onions
Mashed potatoes Squash
Celery and nut salad
Orange ice
Angel cake Coffee
Supper
Sweetbread in ramekins
Rolls Preserves
Marshmallow cake Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Stewed prunes Cereal
Poached eggs on toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Breaded tongue, tomato sauce
Scalloped potatoes
Cake Tea
58 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Dinner
Flank steak en casserole
Apple and celery salad
Lemon jelly with soft custard sauce
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Grapes Uncooked cereal
Creamed dried beef on toa-t
Coffee
Luncheon
Cream tomato soup
Doughnuts Cheese
Tea
Dinner
Mutton chops
Griddled sweet potatoes Peas
Brussels sprouts
Rice pudding Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
Cereal
Sausages Rolls
Coffee
Luncheon
Corn soup
Crisp crackers -Toasted English muffins
Marmalade Tea
Dinner
Meat loaf with hard cooked eggs
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 59
Mashed potatoes
Spinach Lima beans
Prune souffle Coffee
CHRISTMAS DAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
Baked sausages
Waffles, syrup
Coffee
Christmas Dinner
Oyster cocktails
Brown bread folds
Pimolas Ripe olives
Clear consomme, garnish of pimiento stars
Roast goose, potato stuffing (garnish of fried apple-
rings and sausages)
Candied sweet potatoes Boiled onions
Dinner salad
Crackers Cream cheese
English plum pudding, brandy sauce
(Garnish with holly and send lighted to table)
Vanilla ice cream with red bar-le-duc currants
Cakes, candies, nuts, and raisins
Apollinaris Black coffee
Supper
Eggs Creole (chafing-dish)
Toasted crackers Olives
Fruit cake Tea
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Grapes Cereal
Broiled bacon Corn muffins
Coffee
6o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Italian Polenta
Baked apples Tea
Dinner
Baked whitefish
Boiled potatoes Cold slaw
Scalloped tomatoes
Mince turnovers
Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Uncooked cereal
Scrambled eggs Toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Cream toast
Cake Chocolate
Dinner
Cold roast goose
Stuffed potatoes Creamed celery
Cream cheese and currant >a1ud
Fruit Coffee
WINTER MENUS— JANUARY
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with dates
French toast
Coffee
Puree of Tomato.
Recipe on Page 118.
A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving Relishes.
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JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 61
Dinner
Veal with sour cream gravy
Mashed potatoes
Celery Olives
Mushrooms in cream
Charlotte russe Coffee
Supper
Oyster stew
Rolls Caramel nut cake
Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
Sausage pats
Baked potatoes
Rolls Coffee
Luncheon
Cream of corn soup
Crackers Tea
Dinner
Roast lamb
Potatoes baked in pan
Green beans Turnips
Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Apple sauce
Fried fish
Corn muffins
Coffee
62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Cheese and nut salad
Spice cake
Tea
Dinner
Cottage pie with sweet potato crust
Cauliflower Shell beans
Lemon jelly, soft custard
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Uncooked cereal
Minced lamh on toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Sweet potatoes and apples
Biscuit Mi ibises drop cakes
Tea
Dinner
Boiled ham
Mashed potatoes
Celery Scall<ipfd tomatoes
l-'ig pudding, hard sauce
Coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
Grapes
Eggs a la golden rod
Coffee
Luncheon
Sardines
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 63
Rolls
Sliced oranges Oatmeal cookies
Tea
Dinner
Macaroni soup
Cold ham Scalloped potatoes
Spinach Corn
Pineapple tapioca
Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Griddle cakes with syrup
Coffee
Luncheon
Ham in ramekins
Muffins
Cocoa shells
Dinner
Southern tomato soup
Baked haddock
French fried potatoes
Jellied vegetable salad
Cheese straws Indian pudding
Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Baked apples
Uncooked cereal
Broiled bacon
Muffins Coffee
64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Luncheon
Split pea soup
Croutons
Preserves Cake Tea
Dinner
Veal loaf with mushrooms
Uoiled rice
Celery Kscalloped tomatoes
Apple turnovers
Chee-r Coffee
SUNDAY
Breakfast
( )rangcs
Baked beans Drown bread
Fish cakes Coffee
Dinner
I\oast beef
Mashed potatoes Carrot- and pen-
Apple and date salad
Chocolate ice cream
Sponge cake Coffee
Supper
Scallops a la Xewlmrgh
Biscuits
Grape marmalade
Tea
MONDAY
Breakfast
Grapes
Fried mush with syrup
Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 65
Luncheon
Baked bean soup
Apple sauce
Cocoanut cake
Tea
Dinner
Beef and vegetables in casserole
Romaine, French dressing
Jellied walnuts
Chocolate cake Coffee
•
WINTER MENUS— FEBRUARY
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Cereal
Buckwheat cakes
Coffee
Luncheon
Creamed codfish with cheese
Oatmeal muffins
Maple apple sauce
Cookies
Dinner
English beef soup
Ham and macaroni timbales
Cole slaw
Chocolate blancmange
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Grapefruit
66 THIl I'URE POOD COOK BOOK
Uncooked cereal
Creamed dried beef on toast
Coffee
Luncheon
Chicken salad
1 'reserves
Cake ( 'In icolatc
Dinner
l\oast lamh
Mashed potatoes Teas
Carrots Apple mint jelly
Indian pudding Coffee
THURSDAY
Breakfast
]>aked hananas
Sausages ( '« >rn cake
Coffee
Luncheon
Banana and nut ^alad
Lcttucr sandwiches
Jumbles Tea
Dinner
Consomme
Cold roast lamh
French fried potatoes
Celery relish Shell beans
Apricot trifle Coffee
FRIDAY
Breakfast
Stewed prunes
Uncooked cereal
Poached eggs Coffee
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 67
Luncheon
Hashed lamb with English walnuts
Pickles
Chocolate cake
Tea
Dinner
Finnan haddie baked in milk
Boiled potatoes Tomatoes
Asparagus salad
Valentine cakes Coffee
SATURDAY
Breakfast
Cereal with dates
Muffins
Coffee
Luncheon
Omelet
Toasted English muffins
Orange marmalade
Tea
Dinner
Hamburg steak
Scalloped potatoes
String beans
Lemon jelly
Coffee
Corn
SUNDAY
Breakfast
Apples
Uncooked cereal
68 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Broiled bacon
Toast Coffee
Dinner
Roast duck
Mashed potatoes Onions
Celery Apple sauce
Mince pie
Cheese Coffee
Supper
Pineapple and grapefruit salad
Graham nut bread
Marshmallmv cake
Cocoa
MONDAY
Breakfast
Oranges
Broiled ham
Baked potatoes
Rolls Coffee
Luncheon
Potato sou])
Date loaf cake
Tea
Dinner
Cold roast beef
Mashed potatoes Turnips
Cabbage and apple salad
Steamed chocolate pudding — Creamy sauce
Coffee
TUESDAY
Breakfast
Grapes
JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 69
Fried fish
Biscuits Coffee
Luncheon
Rice waffles with maple syrup
Grapefruit
Tea
Dinner
Duck soup
Vegetables en casserole
Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce
Coffee
WEDNESDAY
Breakfast
Grapes
Hamburg steak
Baked potatoes
Coffee
Luncheon
Potato puffs
Maple apple sauce
Nut cookies Tea
Dinner
Baked fresh ham
Potatoes Cauliflower
Spinach salad Orange sherbet
Cocoanut cake
Coffee
BREAD
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
HE term bread to the American means a
product made of white flour. I am not an
enemy of white flour, but I am a friend of
whole wheat flour. There are many brands
of white flour. For practical purposes in
the kitchen we need only consider flour for
bread making and for pastry making. The
difference between these two classes of flours is chemical
and correspondingly physical. Bread making flours are
those which have a high content of very sticky gluten.
This characteristic favors the entangling of bubbles of
gas produced in the leavening process and their subse-
quent expansion held in the meshes of the gluten to
make a porous bread. In pastry the leavening process
is of less importance and hence a flour with a smaller
content of gluten, a less sticky kind, may be employed.
Or, again, a flour of second grade containing a great deal
of what is known as middlings may be very useful for
pastry making, especially when the whiteness of the fin-
ished product is not a matter of very great importance.
White flour is the typical product for bread making in
the United States. In Germany and Russia rye is the
principal source of bread, and rye is used among our
own foreign-born citizens to a large extent. Indian corn
ranks next to wheat as a source of bread supply in the
United States. This is especially true in the border
71
72 THE ri'RE FOOD COOK BOOK
and southern states, where a meal without corn bread is
considered incomplete. There is no very great differ-
ence in the nutritive properties of the different cereals.
Indian corn has less protein and the protein is less
suitable for very young children. Oat Hour has the
largest amount of protein, and it is quite suitable for
nutritive purposes, though it does not rank high as a
bread maker. liarley. rye. and buckwheat occupy in-
termediate positions.
So important i- bread that it is a synonym for all
food. It is called by the poet " the -taff of life." Dread
making should be an art which every cook should learn.
With the same raw materials t\v<> conks will turn out
products so different in character as to be hardly recog-
nized as kin. The French and . \iistriuns make the best
bread among the nations of the earth. The characteris-
tics of the loaf are largely brought about by the amount
of manipulation, the kind and setting of the yeast, and
the speed and completeness of cooking. Most of us
like a bread which is largelv crust. The long, so-called
French loaf may very properly be called the 'staff of
life-' as it miijit be used for a walking stick. Uread,
that is to say cereals, is the ideal food. It is ideal both
by reason of its economy and because of its nutritive
properties. The cook should learn especially to make
the so-called brown breads, which are not only palatable
but highly wholesome. It is a mistake to feed a family
nothing but white llour bread. It is both a dietetic and
a nutritional mistake. Nevertheless white llour bread
will continue to be. perhaps for many years, the prin-
cipal kind of bread Used by large numbers of people,
hence the methods of making it in the right way are of
supreme importance.
In connection with the subject of bread, it is well that
Cream Scones.
Recipe on Page po.
Sally Lunns.
Recipe on Page
Rusk Squares in uu Attractive Porringer are </» Acceptable
Dish for the Inralid.
'•• /
A Seri'icc for the breakfast Orange that is Most
Popular where the I:niit is dr
BREAD 73
attention should be called to leavening agents. There
are three methods for leavening bread. First, the me-
chanical method, which consists in the admixture of air
or carbon dioxid in the kneading of the dough. This
method has been highly praised because of the fact that
it introduces no foreign substances into the loaf. It
requires, however, machinery and as a rule is not avail-
able for family purposes. The second method of aeration
consists in the use of yeast. Yeast-made breads are
generally the best, whether eaten cold, as is advisable in
most cases, or in hot rolls, which are perhaps the most
delicious of the bread products. Good yeast, skillfully
employed, produces from the sugar of the flour equal
quantities of carbon dioxid and alcohol. Both of these
are in a gaseous form when the bread is baked and are
active in the aeration process. Only small quantities of
these bodies are formed and the alcohol is rapidly dis-
sipated during the process of baking and on standing.
Even the strictest prohibitionist may not refuse to eat
yeast-raised bread because it may contain a mere trace
of alcohol ! Good yeasts also add a distinctive and de-
sirable flavor to the loaf.
The third method of aeration is all too common be-
cause of its cheapness and speed, namely, the use of
leavening powders. These ''baking powders," so-called,
are of three general classes ; first, those made with cream
of tartar, as the acid constituent of the powder ; second,
those made with phosphoric acid, or acid calcium phos-
phate, as the acid reagent, and third, those in which alum
furnishes the acid ingredient. There is a great differ-
ence of opinion respecting the excellence and wholesome-
ness of these classes of powder. We all have our in-
dividual preferences and as all of these powders are on
the market, and usually correctly labeled, there is no
74 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
reason why everyone should not be able to secure the
one he wants. All of these leavening agents leave min-
eral residues in the finished loaf. The cream of tartar
powders leave a residue of rochelle salts, that is, a
double tartrate of sodium and potassium. The phosphate
powders leave a residue of sodium phosphate and the
alum powders leave a residue consisting of aluminum
hydrate and sulphate of soda (glauber's salts). In my
opinion, the ingestion of any considerable quantities of
any of these ingredients is objectionable. Personally, I
prefer the cream of tartar powders; others prefer the
phosphate powders, and some believe the alum powders
to be no more objectionable than the other.v You pays
your money and you takes your choice."
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD
HE first and most important " must-have ' is
good yeast. I have come to depend almost
wholly and with the most perfect trust on
compressed yeast. If your grocer keeps yeast
at all, it will be fresh, the manufacturer sees
to that, as the stock of each day is renewed
and the old yeast cakes are taken away. Still,
if you keep it yourself for a few days in a refrigerator
it will not spoil. Yeast which is moist, light colored, and
of ' reviving smell," as an old lady I know expressed it,
is all right. If it gets dry, brittle, streaky, and smells the
opposite of ' reviving," throw it away ; better lose two
cents than twenty cents' worth of flour, with fire and labor
added. Be very careful of the heat of the water in which
yeast is softened. If you have a thermometer, let the
water be sixty-eight degrees; if you have to trust to your
hand, let it be very surely no more than lukewarm.
Then the flour — it is an invariable rule to use bread
flour when yeast is to be added. Bread flour will make
tolerable pie or cake, but pastry flour will not make good
bread. If, as occasionally occurs, you have flour whose
nature you cannot determine, use the following test :
take a handful and close the fingers tightly over it.
If it remains in a soft velvety lump, even after the fin-
gers are loosened, it is pastry flour. Bread flour will
be dry and loose, it will not keep in shape.
According to the time at your disposal, allow sufficient
yeast for raising. For instance, if bread is wanted made
75
76 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
and baked in four hours, two yeast cakes would have
to be allowed to the recipe I have given. There i- no
danger, should compressed yeast be used, of its tasting
in the bread. This is called the quick-raising method.
In a temperature of about sixty-eight degrees it will be
ready to mold two and a half hours from the time it was
set. It will be quite as good bread as that made after
the slow-raising method, although I think the latter will
keep moist for a longer time.
I have heard many hoti-ewives complain of bread
souring. Bread sours only because of two" reasons-
uncleanliness in the making or the utensils, or because
it was allowed to stand tun long after mixing. When
that occurs, the yeast ha> done its work completely, and
the dangerous bacteria get in their work, exactly in the
same way as at the point where cider changes to vinegar.
I have found, too, that in hot weather milk bread will
sour much more quicklv than if bread is mixed with
water. Then there i< the dry bread, with a heavy feel-
ing about it, both to the touch and to the palate. Usually
this is caused either by too much llour being worked into
the dough or by heavy-handed kneading. IJread. like
cake, paltry, cookie-, and biscuit, has a point where just
enough llour has been added and where no more ought
to go in. This amount it is almost impossible for a
recipe maker to determine, because there are so many
flours and the wetting capacities of two are hardly ever
alike. It is a case of experience. A practiced hand can
tell almost the instant when enough llour has gone into
bread by a certain >pringy feeling. Then tip it out and
begin kneading. It may seem moist, but it is not moist
enough to stick if you intervene with well-floured
fingers between the dough and the cloth. Knead quickly
and lightly; a heavy hand which pounds bread instead
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 77
of molding it will soon thump all the life out of it, and
the bread will have the texture of cheese.
Bread
Put four tablespoonfuls of shortening, either butter
and lard mixed or one of the good fats on the market,
two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt
into a bread-raiser, and pour over it one quart of boiling
water. Place one yeast cake in half a cupful of luke-
warm water and stir with a teaspoon till softened. When
the water in the bread pan becomes lukewarm, pour in
the yeast and stir thoroughly. Add five cup f ills of sifted
bread flour, beating it as it goes in with a wire whisk.
When it becomes too thick to move with the whisk, use
a slitted wooden spoon and stir thoroughly, so that the
flour and wetting may become well mixed. Add flour
enough to knead. When it is spongy but not dry, turn it
out on a well-floured molding cloth and knead. It is the
kneading that gives it the satiny smoothness and the
elasticity which are invariable tests of good bread. It
ought, even during this process, to begin to show bubbles
in its texture. Knead them out, as much as possible.
When dough is put back in the pan to rise with bubbles
showing here and there, it will be full of holes and poor
of taste when baked. After the kneading is finished and
the dough feels as smooth as silk, wash the bread-raiser
and dry it, then rub well inside with butter or lard before
putting the dough back again for the second raising. In
the morning, when well risen, cut it down. By this
process I mean cutting the light spongy mass through
and through half a dozen times and then turning it over
and over to check fermentation for a short time. The
cutting takes only a minute or two, and one can feel
78 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
that if it is not attended to for half an hour, the bread
will not sour. It docs not hurt it at all if it has to be
cut down a second time. \Yhen ready to care for it,
toss on the lloured molding board and knead again—
slightly this time — till every air bubble disappears, then
put it in greased pans, having each one about half full.
Cover lightly, set in a warm place, and allow it to double
its bulk before putting to bake.
This recipe will make four good-sized loaves. The
oven, to give satisfactory results, ought to be quite hot
when the bread is first put in. If you bake it in a gas
.stove, the best plan is t<> light both burners -even or
eight minutes before the bread goes in. Set it on the
bottom shelf, then allow it to rise to double its bulk and
begin to brown very slightly. Turn out one burner and
finish the baking in a cooler oven. This does away with
any fear of burning; it bake-* the bread perfectly and
gives a much nicer crust than if the oven is very hot
all the time. The management of dampers in a coal or
wood stove will give the >ame results. According to the
size of your loaves, bread will require from forty-five to
sixty minutes to bake well. ( )n taking it from the oven
set the loaves on a wire stand or sieve to cool. Xever
wrap them steaming hot in a towel. Frequently one
tastes the cloth in which bread has been wrapped, or the
soap with which the cloth was washed. Besides, it shuts
the steam up in the loaf, making it damp and clammy, a
sure medium for the cultivation of mold. Allow the
bread to become perfectly cold before putting it away in
the bread-box or jar, then keep it clo.-clv covered.
Swedish Biscuit
One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of lard, three table-
spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 79
of a compressed yeast cake. Over hot water, scald the
milk and set it aside to cool, adding to it the lard, sugar,
and salt. When it is lukewarm stir in sufficient flour
to make a batter, then beat in the yeast cake which has
previously been softened in a little sweetened water. Add
enough more flour to make a batter as stiff as you can
stir. Cover, and set in a warm place for the night.
In the morning work into the dough a piece of soft butter
as large as the piece of lard, and if eggs are plentiful the
biscuits are improved by working in an unbeaten egg, but
this is not necessary. Knead upon the molding board,
adding flour until it ceases to stick. When shaping them
use just as little flour as possible, and make into round
balls either by working on the board or by flouring the
hands and rolling between the palms. Place in a drip-
ping pan, an inch or more apart. Cover the pans with
paper and set dough to raise. As they raise they will
gradually flatten out. When light and fluffy bake in
quick oven. This will make about three dozen biscuits.
Coffee Cakes
These coffee cakes are made from the same dough as
the Swedish biscuits, except that a little more shortening,
than is directed, is worked in, in the morning. When
ready to shape them stir enough powdered cinnamon
into about three tablespoonfuls of sugar to give it a
brownish color. Take a piece of dough two-thirds the
size of a biscuit and roll it either on the board or be-
tween the hands, until you have a long round strip like
a pencil, six or seven inches in length. Drop it lightly
upon the board, coiling it round and round, and then
lightly drop it into the cinnamon and sugar, and from
80 THE PURE FOOD LOOK BOOK
there to the ]>un to rai-e. I'.ake in a quick oven until
a golden In-own.
Bread Puffs
Knead rai-ed bread d'Ui^h and roll three-fourths of
an incli thick. Cut in squares, round-, or strips, and
fry in deep fat hot enough to brown a hit of bread in
C< 'lint-.
Parker House Rolls
I'ut one-half cake of C"inpre--ed yca*t to soak in one-
half cuplul ut lukeuarm water. In a mixing bowl place
four cupful-, of llmir. two tablespoonfuls of -u.^ar. a little
-alt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one of lard, and two
cupful* of boiling milk. \\'lien lukewarm, add di.-*olved
yeast, -lir well, and set in a warm place to rise, adding
sufficient ll< ur to make a -oft doii^h. After the
has n-eii to double it* *i/e. form into roll-, adding
tlour at thi* time, but rubbing the finder* and b^ard with
the butter, if necessary, to prevent it from sticking. Roll
one-half inch thick, cut with a -mall bi-cuit cutter, then
roll each hi-cuit to make them oblong in shape, -pread
with a little butter, fold over, and place on the baking
pan. Let them ri*e before baking. If mixed in the
morning, knead at noon. This quantity will make three
dozen rolls.
Pennsylvania Dutch Bread
Four cupfuls of soft bread sponge, one and one-half
cupfuls of sujjar (or a little less I, one cupful of currant-
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD
81
and raisins (seed the raisins), two eggs beaten separately,
and enough flour to make stiff. Do not knead, but stir
with a wooden spoon, then set it to rise, and when twice
its original size, bake in two bread pans.
JUST HOW TO MAKE HOT BREAKFAST
BREADS
e>
I IE family of hot breakfast breads is a large
one. The raised roll appears often because
the bread raised with yeast is almost always
welcome, and as home-made bread is made
as often as twro or three times a week, it is
very easy to save a little of the dough before
its last raising for the morning roll. This
is accomplished by reserving part of the dough when
putting into the pans. Set away in a well-greased bowl,
covered closely, and keep in the refrigerator until early
the next morning. Then the cold dough is made into
rolls, placed in pans, and put in a warm place for half
or three-quarters of an hour, when they will be quite
light and ready for the fifteen or twenty minutes' baking
in a rather hot oven. If these rolls are brushed with
melted butter just before they go into the oven, it will
insure a rich tender crust. A little butter and a very
little sugar and occasionally an egg are often worked into
the dough when making into rolls, as this secures a rich
roll.
Wherever clarified fat is suggested for uses in the
place of butter, double the quantity of salt should be
used. The drop biscuit and the split rolls are suggested
for use at luncheon, afternoon tea, or for supper, in the
place of a sandwich. These, if filled with a salad may-
82 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
onnaisc mixture, or any good -andwich filling, will prove
a most satisfactory and dainty substitute for the bread
sandwich.
Sally Lunn
At ten or eleven o'clock cream four tablespoon fuls of
butter, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, then two yolk-
of egg-, beaten. OIK- teaspOOnful (if salt, and one cupful
of milk. \o\v add one-half a \ea-t cake dissolved in
two tables] nfuls of tepid water and three cupfuls of
Hour. T.eat well, add the two whites beaten stiff. Tut
in a buttered, round pan with a center tube. In the
morning bake in a moderate' oven half an hour. Cover
with maple -ugar boiled down to almo-t a candv. This
will form a crisp crust and be delicious.
Ragga Muffin
Roll bread dough out in thin. Ion- strips, spread them
with a hard sauce o| butter and -ugar creamed together
and llavor witli vanilla, nutmeg, or cinnamon, sprinkle
with currants and raisins, roll up and cut into buns.
\Yhen light, bake and glaze over with -ugar and hot
water.
Graham Crisps
Mix two cupfuls of graham Hour with one teaspoonful
of salt and one cupful of water. l\oll out rather thin,
t'ut into rounds. Put a layer on a greased pan. brush
them with melted butter and put on another layer, pinch
edges together, brush again with butter, prick clear
Ragga Muffins.
Recipe on Page 82.
Parker House Rolls.
Recipe on Page 80.
. ' ^
- • —
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 83
through both layers in several places and bake twenty
minutes in a hot oven.
Raised Split Rolls
In the evening, perhaps just after dinner, take one cup-
ful of hot potato, which has been pressed through a
coarse sieve — the potato may be either boiled, steamed,
or baked — and mix it with two tablespoonfuls of lard
and the same of butter — both soft, but not melted. Now
add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-half
cupful of tepid milk, add one tablespoonful of sugar,
one-half teaspoon ful of salt, and one egg yolk, well beaten.
Stir well and sift in one and one-half cupfuls of flour.
Beat again and add egg white beaten stiff, and place bowl
in a .warm place until sponge is light and double in bulk;
then add enough flour to knead, but use as little flour as
possible. About ten o'clock roll out very thin, less than
one-quarter of an inch, cut -with finger biscuit cutter,
place on well-buttered tin and brush each one with melted
butter. Put another layer of biscuit on top of these,
brush tops with melted butter, cover and set in very cool
place until morning. Then put the biscuits in a warm
place to rise. When double in bulk again — this will take
about half an hour — bake about fifteen minutes in a hot
oven. The secret of their success is to roll them very,
very thin.
Entire Wheat or Graham Muffin
Mix one cupful of flour, one cupful of entire wheat or
graham flour, twro tablespoonfuls of sugar, three and one-
half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful
86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
raisins. Now beat together three- fourths of a cupful of
sugar, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and one egg.
Add the sifted flour, then the Hour containing the nuts
and raisins. Put it in two well-greased pans, let it stand
about twenty minutes, and bake for nearly an hour in a
moderate oven.
Custard Corn Bread
Four cupfuls (if 1 toiling milk, and three cupfuls of
cornmeal. Stir the meal into the milk as for mush, add
one tea-poi.nful <>f butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, and
let this cool. When cool add two well-beaten eggs, one
teaspoonful of .salt, and three tea-spoonfuls of baking
powder. Hake a> other corn bread.
Rough Robin
Six cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of rice flour, one cup-
ful of lard or butter, one cupful of >ugar, three cupfuls
of currants, three cupfuN of Sultana raisins, three tea-
spoonfuls of baking po\\der, one teaspoonful of ground
caraway seeds, "lie teaspoon ful of cinnamon, and half
a teaspoonful of salt. Rub the butter or lard into the
flour and rice flour, add the sugar, baking powder, salt,
spire-, and fruit. Mix with buttermilk to make a stiff
batter. Turn into a large buttered and floured cake tin.
Hake slowly for two hours.
Bishop's Bread
Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one cupful of raisins.
one cupful of split, unblanched almonds, two cupfuls of
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 87
flour, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon-
ful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Flavor with
lemon or vanilla. Beat the eggs and sugar until very
light. Then add flour, soda, and cream of tartar, and
lastly the nuts and raisins. Spread in thin sheet on but-
tered tin, and cut in small oblongs or squares before it is
cold.
Hominy Spoon Bread
Beat one egg light without separating, add one-half
cupful of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and two cup-
fuls of boiled hominy. Make a smooth mixture and
pour into a baking dish. Put a few small pieces of but-
ter, measuring one rounded teaspoonful in all, over the
top and bake in a moderately hot oven from twenty to
thirty minutes. It should be firm and of a golden brown
color when clone. Boiled rice may be used in place of
hominy if desired. The bread should be brought to the
table in the dish in which it is baked, and served with a
spoon.
Buttermilk Biscuit
To one cupful of buttermilk add one-half teaspoonful
of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls
of butter or shortening, and sifted flour to make a dough.
Knead until smooth and elastic as for light bread. Roll
out one-half inch thick, cut out, and bake in a quick
oven for ten or fifteen minutes.
Buttermilk Spoon Biscuit
One quart of buttermilk, one teaspoonful each of soda
and salt, two tablespoonfuls of soft butter or shortening,
88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem
pans and bake in a quick oven.
Peanut Butter Pinwheels
Sift, then measure two cupfuls of flour. Sift again
with one-half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoonfuls
of baking powder. Work into this two tablespoonfuls of
shortening and mix to a dough, stiff enough to roll, with
milk. About three- fourths of a cup will be needed.
Roll out lightly into a -trip one-half inch thick, spread
with a very thin layer of softened peanut butter. Roll
up like a jelly roll and cut in half-inch slier-. Put them
on a buttered cookie sheet or biscuit tin so they will
not touch. Hake in a hot oven twenty minutes.
Cream Rye Gems
< hie cupful of cre:im. two cupfuls of sour milk or
buttermilk, one-half cupful of sugar, one well beaten egg,
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda.
Thicken to a -till batter with one part of white flour to
two parts of rye. If -our cream i- used, add another half
teaspoonful of soda. Hake in gem pans in a quick oven.
Sour Cream Biscuit
One cupful of sour cream, one-half cupful of -our
milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one-half teaspoonful of
salt, and flour to make a soft dough; about one quart.
Handle as little as possible, roll thin, and bake in a hot
oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Note: If there is
any doubt about the state of sourness of the milk and
Peanut Butter Pimvheels in Process of Making.
Rolling and Cutting the Dough.
Peanut Butter Pinwhecls. Page 88.
•2 i
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 89
cream, add three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, as if
sweet milk were used.
Brioche Cakes
Add one-fourth cupful of sugar to one cupful of
scalded milk. When lukewarm add one-third yeast-cake
softened in warm water, then add one and one-half cup-
fuls of flour, and let rise. When bubbly, add two eggs,
beaten, one-fourth cup melted butter, one-fourth tea-
spoonful of salt, the grated rind and juice of half a
lemon, and one and one-half cupfuls more flour. Cover
and let rise until light. Mold on a board to horseshoe
shape and let rise again. Bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven.
Sally Lunns
Four cupfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of sugar,
four tablespoonfuls of butter, quarter of a teaspoonful
of salt, one yeast cake, two eggs, half a cupful of milk,
and water. Crumble the yeast cake into a cup, put with
it one teaspoonful of flour and sugar. Half fill the cup
with lukewarm water, stand in a warm place for a
quarter of an hour. Sift into a bowl the flour, salt, and
sugar, rub in the butter. Pour the yeast into the center
of the flour, and the eggs well beaten, milk, and enough
lukewarm water to make a very soft dough. Mix and
beat well with a wooden spoon, set in a warm place to
rise for one hour. Grease three round cake tins, place
the mixture equally in these. Stand in a warm place till
risen to the top of the tins. Brush over with beaten eggs.
Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. They should be
90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
lightly browned all over. Stand a minute before turning
out. They may be buttered and eaten fresh, but are
usually split in three and toasted when a day old.
Cream Scones
Sift two cupfuls of flour with three teaspoonfuls of
baking powder and one-half teaspoonful <>f salt. Mix
with one-fourth cupful of butter, then one-half cupful of
cream with two beaten cggx Mix lightly, cut in tri-
angles, and bake in a hot oven.
Buckwheat Cakes
I 'our a pint of boiling water or milk <>n half a cup of
line cornmeal ; add half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well.
and when lukewarm add half a cup of white Hour, one
cup of buckwheat Hour, one- fourth cup of yeast or one
softened yeast cake. I'.eat vigorously. Let it rise over-
night. In the m< Tiling stir down and beat again. When
risen and ready to bake, add one saltspoonful of soda,
sifted through a -trainer. I'.eat again, and fry in lar^e
cakes. Buckwheat cake-, even if not really sour, usually
require the addition of soda just before baking, to make
them light and tender. They should be eaten only in
very cold weather, and but seldom even then. They taste
better and brown better when made with boiling milk in-
stead of water.
Graham Gems
One-half cupful of good syrup or brown sugar, one
cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half
JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 91
teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter (melted),
graham flour enough to make a stiff batter. Mix in the
order given, and bake in hissing-hot gem-pans.
Spider Corn Cake
Sift together three-fourths of a cupful of cornmeal,
one-fourth cupful flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one-
half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of soda.
Beat one egg until light ; add one cupful of sour milk, one
tablespoonful of melted butter, and combine with dry
ingredients. Turn into a well-buttered iron frying-pan.
Pour over the mixture one cupful of sweet milk. Bake
in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.
92 MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD
MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 93
MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD
RICE
By 1 1. \RVI-Y W. \YILL-Y, M. D.
ICK is a cereal which is rarely, if ever, used in
bread making. Jt is, however, an important
article of diet, consisting largely of starch,
and furnishing an abundant source of heal
and energy. In order to secure the be.-.l,
nutritional rice, only unpolished kernels
-liould be used. These, however, are not
found very generally on the market because our people
seem to have a passion, in cereals at least, for that which
is pure white. Rice is often adulterated, that is, it is
coated with glucose, talc, paraffin, etc. The purpo>e of
treating rice in this way is to make it look better and
thus appeal to the eye of the purchaser and consumer.
In doing this, however, it loses often its right to appeal
to the nutrition of the consumer. The average content
of protein in polished rice is about seven per cent, while
the protein of wheat is 12.25 per cent. On the other
hand, rice has nearly eighty per cent, of starch, while
wheat has a little over seventy per cent. Rice, there-
fore, is not to be regarded as the equal of the ordinary
cereals, as a builder of protein tissues, but it is superior
to them in its power to furnish heat and energy, hence a
diet of rice for a hard working man is ideal, because
of the amount of heat required to furnish the energy for
the labor. People of sedentary habits should be careful,
however, not to eat too much rice.
95
96 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
The unpolished rice contains about eight per cent,
of protein, and more than twice as much fat and mineral
ingredients as the unpolished kernels. Recent inves-
tigations indicate that vitamins, constituents which are
of the greatest importance, are also lost when the outer
coating of the rice is removed, and the absence of these
and the other ingredients lust in polishing doubtless
accounts for the occurrence of beri-beri among people
living exclusively on polished rice, thus indicating the
value of the materials removed, though the results, of
course, are not so dire when rice forms only a part of
the menu. Such facts are of great importance, however,
in indicating the dangers and losses arising from the
manipulation of natural foods and their over-refinement.
JUST HOW TO COOK RICE
OW comes a time when potatoes are high in
price and may soar higher ; why wouldn't it
be a good plan to use rice sometimes instead
of potatoes — rice which is not only a good
cereal, vegetable, and dessert, but an unex-
celled "left-over"?
Rice is most valuable as a starchy food. It
has more starch than potatoes, although it has less tissue
building material. It has a very slight mineral content
and practically no fat. In fact it has less fat than any
cereal that we use. It furnishes heat and energy, and
is well adapted as a food for those engaged in hard
physical labor, or extreme exertion. Rice is not adapted,
on account of the lack of proteid and fat, for a sole
article of diet, but it is an admirable carrier for eggs,
milk, and cheese, which impart to rice a valuable position
in our dietary. In this way, strange to say, rice has come
to be called an exclusive food in some Oriental nations,'
where it is used in combination with condiments to stimu-
late digestion, and with eggs, tomatoes, curries, cheese,
for their added food value.
The Eastern rice has more nitrogenous value than
most of the rice grown in America. The rice that we
use in America is often highly polished — for appearance'
sake — and is often coated with talc, to render the brown-
ish kernels white and attractive. The public should de-
mand either the unpolished rice, which has more nutri-
tive value, or insist upon a digestible coating. This
97
98 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
should not only be a nutritive saving but a money one,
as the polishing process is an added cost to the produc-
tion of American rice. At present, however, unpolished
rice is more expensive because of the small demand for it.
' It is a disgrace that the most intelligent nation in the
world should be so ignorant of the food value of the
crops on which more people live than on any other, that
they should insist on having their rice made as shiny as
polished glass bead-, although in so doing they are throw-
ing away the best part of it. \o rice eating people treat
their rice as we do, and it is to be hoped that the snrill
markets that have been started for the unpolished rice
will lead to a general propaganda." so said the late Kllen
II. Richards, the home economies' leader.
Most of the rice u-ed and grown in Louisiana and
Texas is Kiusha, — from Japan originally. — a short kernel
which does not break as readily in the polishing process
as the long grain, golden Carolinian rice. 1'uy the best
quality of rice whose kernels are not mashed and broken.
This is the first step in cooking rice successfully. Al-
though there are numerous methods employed, yet evcrv-
one -eeins to agree that rice should be dry, and each
kernel separate and distinct. All the Eastern nations like
their rice harder than we, even as the Italians think that
we cook our macaroni until it is too soft. Perhaps the
rice eating people unconsciously feel that if their rice is
hard, they are forced to masticate it more thoroughly,
and thereby digest it more completely.
Cook the polished rice in the following way in order
to remove practically all the talc coating. Do not wash
first, but place directly into plenty of rapidly boiling salted
water. IJoil hard twenty minutes, then pour all through
a colander and wash the rice in plenty of hot water.
When washed, place all in the oven to steam and dry. If
Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls.
Recipe on Page 555.
A Chafing Dish and Alcohol Lamp. The Casserole is an
Attractive Novelty.
Steamed in ( hie of the Newest of Kitchen Xoi'dtics:
a I\ /'(•(- Hull. I\\\'ipc <>n /\i iii'
A'</MY(/ Muffins.
A1/.
JUST HOll' TO COOK RICE 99
washed before being cooked, the talc is not entirely re-
moved as it has a tendency to stick on. It is not advis-
able to use the water in which this rice was boiled for
other cooking. A rice ball is now made in which the
rice is placed raw and the whole put into boiling water.
When cooked, the water is drained through the perfora-
tions. This rice ball is illustrated.
Rice increases from two and a half to five times its
bulk in the cooking process, its swelling depending upon
the variety of the rice and its age. The older the rice
the more water it will absorb. In boiling unpolished
rice it must be remembered that it should be washed
thoroughly in at least three waters, or put in a strainer
and washed until the water from the rice is quite clear ;
rubbed briskly between the hands ; boiled rapidly, so that
the kernels do not adhere to the pot or to each other ; and
not stirred, else the rice will stick to the bottom of the
pot and burn. Do not cook rice with a cover on the pot.
Rice, like other cereals, must be thoroughly cooked,
as it takes an appreciable length of time, at least twrenty
minutes, to render its starch content digestible. The
Indian method, after the rice is cooked, is to put it in
the oven for about five minutes, with the door open, and
allow the moisture to evaporate.
Steaming is the best method of cooking unpolished
rice, as in this way its scant proteid and mineral content
is not lost in the water. If this rice is boiled, the water
may be used for soup or sauce, in order to save the
nutritive elements which escaped in the boiling process.
Steamed Rice
Two and three-quarters tablespoonfuls of rice, three-
quarters of a cupful of water, one-quarter of a teaspoon-
676993
ioo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
ful of salt. Put salt and water in top of double boiler.
place on range, and add gradually the well-washed rice,
stirring with a fork. IJoil three minutes, cover, place
over under part of double boiler, and steam forty-five
minutes; uncover, that steam may escape. Serve with
sugar and cream. Rice when used as a dessert may be
cooked with half milk and half water in-tead of all water.
Mexican Rice
One-half cupful of rice, washed and drained well. Fry
the rice in one heaping tablespoonful of butter until a
delicate brown: add to tbi- one-half cupful of strained
tomatoes and a little chopped onion. Let this cook for
two minutes; then add one cupful of thin soup >tock, salt,
and pepper. Cover and let -imnier until all the water lia>
been absorbed i about three-quarters of an hour). The
lice when done will be perfectly soft, retain it- shape, and
will be a delicate pink color.
Boiled Rice, Japanese
Put rice in a basin nf water and rub it betueen Un-
hands, sometime- using the side of the dish a- if it were
a washboard, and literally scrubbing the rice. When
thoroughly rinsed, place in a skillet and pour cold water
over it. The water should stand two inches above the
rice. Then boil over a moderate lire. When the water
is absorbed and the rice- soft, put the skillet on the back
of the range (cover off) and let all the nioUuire dry out.
The rice should be beautifully tender, perfectly dry, each
grain distinct and very hot. ( Salt added to the water in
which it is boiled is more to the Western taste.)
JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 101
Persian " Piloh "
One cupful of rice, one tablespoonful of salt, three
tablespoonfuls of butter, four cupfuls of boiling water.
Soak rice an hour in enough cold water to cover, or wash
it in different waters until the water no longer becomes
milky. Drain, and cook in the boiling salted water fifteen
minutes, until nearly soft, leaving dish uncovered. Turn
into a colander and pour cold water over it to separate the
kernels. Melt the butter and pour into a baking dish ;
then turn the butter out into a cup. Put the rice into
the buttered bake-dish, pour the melted butter over it,
and bake in a moderate oven one hour, leaving the dish
uncovered. If rice be covered during cooking, the ker-
nels are sticky and water-soaked instead of dry and flaky.
If this 'Piloh' is to be served with a stew, as is cus-
tomary in the Orient, two tablespoonfuls of butter for
baking is enough.
Baked Rice
One cupful of rice, one-half pound cheese, one cupful
of milk, one-half of a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of
cayenne. Boil the rice rapidly twenty minutes, wash, and
drain. Grate the cheese. Put a layer of rice in the bot-
tom of a baking dish, then a layer of cheese, flavoring
with salt and cayenne ; then alternate rice and cheese
until you have the ingredients used. Pour in the milk,
cover the pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.
Vegetarian Rice
Boil the rice until flaky, wash it, then mold into the
shape of a loaf of bread. Cut the loaf in half and insert
102 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
three tablespoonfuls of butter and push together again.
Grate strong cheese over the top of the loaf and bake
in the oven until the cheese runs and glazes the top.
Serve with asparagus tips in melted butter.
Boiled Rice — Carolina Method
This, perhaps the simplest and easiest of all methods,
is the way rice is cooked by the rice planters and rice
eaters in the coast country of South Carolina, where the
famous Carolina head-rice is grown.
Salt three quarts of water and place to boil. Thor-
oughly wash and drain one cup of unpolished rice. \Yhen
the water is boiling briskly, empty the rice into the pot of
water. Leave uncovered and keep the water boiling so
rapidly that all through the pot the rice is in constant
motion. After twelve or fifteen minutes drain all the
water from the rice, shake up in the pot once or twice,
cover, and place on the back of the stove, or over a faint
Maine to dry out, until ready to serve. This should take
about twenty minutes.
Hindu Rice as a Vegetable
Wash the rice thoroughly, rubbing the grains between
the hands, and using many waters, until all starchiness
disappears. Then let the rice soak in cold water for at
least fifteen minutes — longer if possible. Cut three or
four large carrots in long, thin strips, as for soup, and
boil them in one quart of water until it is reduced to a
pint. Then throw away the carrots and use the water,
which will contain their essence, in which to cook the
rice. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a double cooker,
JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 103
placing it, for the time being, directly over the fire, let
the rice fry in it for a few minutes until it shows a
tendency to brown, stirring constantly. Then add the
water in which the carrots were cooked, and salt and
cayenne pepper to suit the taste. Place the rice cooker
in its proper vessel and let it cook until all the liquid is
absorbed and the rice is well done. Test the rice by
pressing a grain of it between the thumb and finger. If
it crushes readily, it is sufficiently cooked. The essence
of any vegetable secured in the same way as that of the
carrots described in this recipe may be used for cooking
rice as a vegetable. Thus the flavor may be constantly
varied.
Cream of Rice Soup
To one quart milk add one cupful of cooked rice which
has been left from a previous meal when rice was served
as a vegetable. Cook in a double boiler for half an hour,
then rub through a sieve. Return to the boiler, season
with salt, pepper, and a suspicion of cinnamon. Add one
cup of top milk or thin cream, and serve as soon as the
soup is thoroughly heated. Be very careful about the
cinnamon, that it is only a ' suspicion," as too much
spoils the flavor of the soup.
Baked Rice and Sausages
For six persons use one small teacupful of unpolished
rice, eight sausages, two quarts of boiling water, one
tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Wash the
rice in three waters, and then put it into a large stew-
pan with the boiling water. Boil with the cover off the
104 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
pan for twenty-five minutes, adding the salt at the end
of the first fifteen minutes. When the rice is cooked,
drain in a colander. Sprinkle lightly with pepper, using
about one-third of a teaspoonful, and then spread in a
rather shallow dish. Cut the sausages into slices about
one-third of an inch thick and lay them on the rice. 13ake
in a rather hot oven for twenty minutes and serve at once
in the dish in which the cooking is done.
Rice Cups
Prepare a thick custard by boiling a cupful of washed
rice in slightly salted milk; cook until the rice is dry and
tender, stirring in one well-beaten egg, a scant table-
spoonful of sugar, a few drops of vanilla extract, and
two tablespoon fuls of cream ; beat until light and pour
into shallow china cups, placing in the ice-box to be-
come firm; when cold unmold and, with a sharp spoon,
remove a portion of the rice from the center of each cup,
filling the depressions with sliced preserved peaches and
a little of the syrup; cover the top with powdered maca-
roon crumbs, and after arranging on a baking sheet run
into a hot oven for about five minutes: serve with thick
cream.
Carrotina Rice
Put one and one-quarter cup fuls of the best rice
(picked but not washed) in covered stew-pan with two
tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half of a tablespoonful of
paprika (Hungarian pepper), and one teaspoonful of
salt. Mix well. Place, covered, in hot oven for ten
minutes, take out, add a good-sized carrot cut into cubes
S o
G
o .
— ~>
JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 105
(dice shape), and six cupfuls chicken or mutton broth;
cook slowly, one or two hours, in a double boiler. Any
herbs put in must be removed before serving.
East Indian Soup
Having had on the previous clay a curry of veal with
rice border, and finding it difficult to serve any which may
remain, the housekeeper will find this a very good soup
to use up the meat and rice. Cover that which remains
with cold water, adding one peeled and sliced sour apple.
Simmer slowly for an hour, rub through a sieve, season
more if necessary, with salt and pepper, reheat, and add,
at serving, one cupful of hot milk or cream, and one
tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Tiny cubes of
the meat may be reserved, before rubbing through the
sieve, and added with the cream.
Cheese Cream with Rice
Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful
of flour, add one cupful of cream, a little salt and pepper,
and one-half cupful of cold boiled rice. When boiling
add one-third cupful of grated cheese and a generous
dusting of paprika. Mustard may be added if liked.
Pour this over entire wheat toast, spread with minced
ham or tongue.
Caramelized Rice and Apple Pudding
Caramelize one cupful of sugar in an agate saucepan.
Add three cupfuls of boiling water; simmer and stir
frequently until smooth, then add half a cupful of thor-
io6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
oughly washed rice. Boil for five minutes and turn into
a pudding-dish into which have been sliced five pared
cooking apples. Place in a hot oven and stir down fre-
quently until the rice is soft. Bake five minutes longer.
Serve cold with cream.
Iced Compote of Rice and Quinces
Put into a double boiler one and one-half pints of milk
and a little grated lemon rind. Add, when this boils,
one-half cupful of washed rice and a saltspoonful of
salt ; cook until the rice is tender and the milk nearly
boiled away, then stir in the stiffly whipped white of one
egg, half a cupful of sugar, and one-half ounce of gelatine
that has been dissolved in a little hot water. Allow the
mixture to cool, but before it stiffens fold in half a pint
of sweetened whipped cream and a few drops of lemon
juice; pour immediately into a ring mold and place in the
ice-box to become firm. Serve unmolded with the center
filled with preserved quinces that have been drained and
sliced.
Frozen Rice Pudding
Boil in slightly salted milk until tender a cupful of
washed rice and stir while hot into a pint and a half of
rich boiled custard, flavored with vanilla ; allow the rice
custard to become cold, and then fold in half a pint of
sweetened whipped cream, beaten solid. Turn into a
chilled freezer, freezing to the consistency of soft snow,
when a large cupful of chopped preserved ginger and
t\vo tablespoonfuls of the syrup should be added. Freeze
until firm and smooth, and serve in wide-brimmed sherbet
glasses garnished with stars of whipped cream.
JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 107
Rice Croquettes
Wash one cupful of rice through several cold waters
and put in a double-boiler with one quart of milk. Cover,
and cook until all the milk has been absorbed — about
one hour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, one of onion juice,
a saltspoonful of pepper, and the yolks of four eggs.
Mix well and turn out to cool. When cold, form into
cylinders ; dip these in an egg beaten with a tablespoonf ul
of warm water; roll in bread-crumbs and fry in deep
hot fat.
io8 MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE
MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE 109
I io MORE WAYS OF COOK1XG RICE
SOUPS
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
OUPS .of all kinds except those thickened
with vegetables or meats are to be regarded
rather as condiments than as foods. They
are usually served in this country merely as
an introduction to the meal, and for this pur-
pose they have a value much higher than
that due to the nutriment they contain. For
this reason, personally, I prefer what is known as the
clear soups, whether of vegetable or animal origin.
When soups contain the whole of the vegetable as the
pea or bean soups, or when they are simply used as a
vehicle for carrying animal or vegetable fats, they lose
their special character as soups and acquire the distinc-
tive character of foods. A good plate of pea or bean or
vegetable soup or mulligatawny, etc., when eaten with
bread or with the addition of rice or macaroni, as is
done abroad, becomes a square meal, while a cup of clear
soup like that extracted from the bones of meat animals,
from which the oil is carefully removed, becomes purely
condimental. As a rule, I think I can safely say that the
American people do not recognize the true value of
soups. In many families, soup is seldom served except
perhaps when company is present. This, I think is a
dietetic mistake. There is scarcely any dinner that may
not be made better by being introduced by a palatable
soup.
in
JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS
Royal Bouillon
To make three pints of rich bouillon, take two and a
half pounds of lean beef, that has been finely chopped,
and cover with two and a half quarts of cold water,
allowing it to stand for one hour ; then cover and place
on a moderate fire, only just simmering for three hours;
remove any scum that may arise ; now add one small
onion, one carrot, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf, two
cloves, four peppercorns, and two stalks of celery, all
cut into dice, and simmer until the vegetables are tender.
Strain into an earthenware bowl and let cool without
covering. \Yhen ready to serve, remove any grease and
place in a granite saucepan with the white of one egg,
stirring until it boils ; then strain again through a fine
cloth without pressing and serve immediately.
Jellied Bouillon
For jellied soups use well-made beef or chicken con-
somme. Add just enough gelatin to make it jelly slightly,
one-half tablespoonful to each pint. Place in cracked ice
till needed. Serve in bouillon cups.
Mushroom Soup
Add one tablespoonful of beef extract to one quart of
\vater. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirred
into two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Let simmer,
ii4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
stirring; add one can mushrooms (cut in slices) with
their liquor. Heat one quart of cream in double boiler.
Add just before serving and season to taste. This makes
enough for twelve people.
Puree Jackson
Cook three potatoes and three stalks of celery, cut in
slices, in one quart of chicken stock, until tender. Rub
through a sieve. Scald one pint of milk with a slice of
onion, a blade of mace, and a bit of bay leaf; strain
and add three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour,
rubbed to a paste ; cook five minutes. Combine mixtures,
season to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika.
Vegetable Stock
The stock is made by boiling a pint of choppcd-up okra
pods in two quarts of water. Strain them, and set aside
for the next day ; then bring to the boiling point, add very
young carrots, chopped fine, — about half a cupful,-
abotit the same quantity of young leeks or the tops of
green onions, cut into little bits; half a cup of green peas,
and salt and pepper to taste.
Mexican Delight
When making the okra stock, above, to be used for
the foundation of this soup, add a slice of salt pork or fat
bacon, and half a dried herring. Strain before setting
aside to cool. Next day, bring to the boiling point, add
two sweet red and green peppers, chopped fine ; twelve
very small okra pods, cut into thin slices ; two thin green
onions, also sliced; half a cup of small green peas. Boil
JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 115
twenty-five minutes. Moisten a teaspoonful of curry
powder with a little cream, rub to a smooth paste and
add. Simmer five minutes. Remove the shell from two
hard cooked eggs, chop the yolks and whites separately,
and stir into the soup just before serving: at the same
time add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. This is always a
special favorite with men folks.
White Soup
White soup we like for the chilly days which come
occasionally in the early summer or fall. Put three pints
of milk in a double boiler ; add two onions with four
cloves stuck in each ; three blades of mace ; a little
lemon peel, cut so thin that it is yellow on both sides ; six
peppercorns : bring to the boil, then draw to one side
and let it simmer for half an hour. Remove the condi-
ments, add a half cup of stale bread, finely grated, and
a lump of butter ; salt and pepper to taste. Simmer
gently for twenty-five minutes.
Spanish Soup
Chop three tablespoonfuls of red and green peppers
and cook in two tablespoonfuls of flour and butter for
five minutes. Add three cupfuls of stock, two cupfuls
or a can of tomatoes. Cover this and allow it to simmer
for twenty minutes; then strain and add one-half of a
cupful of plain boiled macaroni.
Creole Soup
V
Wash and cut into slices one-half dozen good-sized
turnips, adding half a can of tomatoes, two tablespoon-
fuls of sweet red peppers (canned), half a teaspoonful
n6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
of allspice, one sliced Bermuda onion, a scant teaspoon-
ful of salt, four whole cloves, and a large tablespoonful
of butter. Place these ingredients over the fire, covering
with water, bring to the boiling point, and cook until the
vegetables are very tender ; now strain and keep hot
where it will not boil. Heat a pint of rich milk in the
double boiler, thickening with a level tablespoonful of
flour moistened with a little cream ; be sure that the
cream sauce boils ; turn the vegetable puree into a heated
tureen, stir in a tiny pinch of baking soda to prevent
curdling, and very gradually pour in the sauce, stirring
constantly. Serve immediately.
Southern Tomato Soup
To a plain tomato soup made without stock add just
before serving two tablespoonfuls of freshly grated
horseradish, one teaspoonful of vinegar and one-fourth
cupful of boiled macaroni, cut in rings.
Cream of Lettuce Soup
Remove the hearts from two heads of lettuce and
reserve for salad. Finely chop the outside leaves and
cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter ten minutes. Add
one quart of the liquor in which a fowl has been cookecl,
one-half an onion, two cloves, one-half tablespoonful of
sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a few gratings of
nutmeg. Cook slowly one hour, and add three table-
spoonfuls each of butter and flour, which have been
rubbed to a paste. Cook five minutes, add one cupful of
rich milk, let boil up at once, season to taste, rub through
a sieve and serve at once.
JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 117
•
Crab Soup a la Maryland
To one pint of water add one small finely chopped
onion, one blade of whole mace, one-half teaspoonful of
paprika, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and bring to the boil-
ing point; then add one pint of fresh milk, and one pint
of fresh crab meat. When the mixture boils, thicken
with two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour. Cook
two minutes, and add one-fourth cupful of butter, a
little at a time, two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and serve unstrained.
Swedish Fish Soup
Make a stock by putting head, tail, and bones of any
white fish, such as cod, haddock, or pollock, on in cold
water to cover, adding a slice each of onion and carrot,
a bit of bay leaf, a few peppercorns, and cook slowly for
one hour. Strain, thicken with butter, and flour, using
three tablespoonfuls each, to one quart of stock, season to
taste with salt and paprika, and add just before serving a
pint of milk, or one cupful of milk and one cupful of
cream which has been scalded. A few peas make a pretty
garnish, also finely chopped parsley.
Lentil and Tomato Soup
Wash a quart of lentils and put them into a large
saucepan with four quarts of cold water. Add four small
onions, each stuck with two cloves, two teaspoonfuls of
lemon juice, half the rind of the lemon, four large sprigs
of parsley, six or eight red peppers, two teaspoonfuls of
salt, and the same quantity of granulated sugar. Cook
ii8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
gently until the lentils are very soft. Then add a dozen
small tomatoes cut into quarters. Boil for a quarter of
an hour longer, or until the whole is soft enough to put
through a coarse sieve. Strain into a hot dish and add
some tiny pieces of butter on the top of the soup. Crackers
or dice-shaped croutons should be served with the sou]).
German lentils will greatly increase the nourishment in
the soup and it will also be of a richer color.
Any kind of meat stock instead of water may be used
to boil the lentils.
Mock Oyster Soup
Peel and cut into cubes two small oyster plants and
cover with cold water, seasoning with a scant teaspoon ful
of salt, a pinch of pepper, one bay leaf, and a cupful of
chopped celery tops ; cook until the oyster plant is very
tender, and then press through a puree sieve. Reheat in a
granite saucepan, pouring in two cupfuls of boiling milk,
and stir in a tablespoonful of butter; serve very hot, ac-
companied by oyster crackers.
Puree of Tomato
To one can of tomatoes and one pint of stock add a
small onion, chopped, a blade of mace, and a level tea-
spoonful of salt. Cook ten minutes in a saucepan, then
add two level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch moistened
with a little cold water, and cook five minutes longer.
Strain through a fine sieve, reheat, add a drop of
tabasco and a half-cupful of good cream. This will serve
six persons.
JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 119
Cream of Celery Soup
One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of flour, one table-
spoonful of butter, one head of celery, a large slice of
onion, and a small piece of mace ; boil the diced celery in
one pint of water for thirty or forty minutes ; heat mace,
onion, and milk together ; mix flour with two tablespoon-
fuls of cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Add but-
ter, season with salt and pepper to taste, then add celery
and let simmer about two minutes ; then strain and serve
immediately. The flavor is improved by adding one cup-
ful of whipped cream when soup is in the tureen.
Cream of Corn Soup
One can corn, one pint boiling water, one pint milk,
one slice onion, two tablespoonfuls butter, two table-
spoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful salt, few grains pepper,
one-half cup thick cream. Chop the corn, add water, and
simmer twenty minutes ; rub through a sieve, scald milk
with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Thicken
with butter and flour stirred together. Heat, add salt and
pepper, and when very hot, just before serving, add one-
half cupful of thick cream.
120 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS
MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS 121
122 MORE W AYS OF MAKING SOUPS
EGGS
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
HE value of the egg as a food product is not
fully appreciated. Eggs are often used be-
cause they are so conveniently and so easily
cooked and also because when properly pre-
pared they appeal to the appetite. A person
who eats an egg, however, should not forget
that it contains very essential food ingredients
in an ideal condition for nutrition. The white of an
egg, though largely water, contains a pure protein, in
the form known as albumen, which not only is a splendid
protein-tissue builder, but also lends itself easily to di-
gestion. The yolk of the egg contains not only protein,
but also almost an equal amount of fat. In addition to
these valuable food products, it is very rich in phosphorus
and lime, two of the elements so necessary to the build-
ing of the bones. The yolk also contains phosphorus
in a peculiarly valuable form, which is known to the
chemist as lecithin.
While of late the egg has not been an economic diet,
it continues to be one of the most valuable armaments
of the table. The various attractive forms in which eggs
can be served, therefore, appeal particularly to the con-
sumer from the nutritional point of view.
123
JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS
HEN eggs are their cheapest and best, in
May or early June, and before the really hot
weather has come, the wise householder will
put away, in water glass, a liberal quantity.
If possible, " put down " enough to carry the
family through the months when eggs
' soar." If Carefully packed, and if there
are not more than three or four dozen in a crock, and
again if they are kept covered with the water glass, they
will keep well.
p
The present writer is now using the first of a hundred
dozen thus stored, and finds them good, not only for
cooking, but for omelets and scrambled eggs. These
particular eggs cost, including water glass, twenty-two
cents a dozen.
Thus it seems only necessary for us as housekeepers to
look ahead a bit, and there would be less need of ' egg-
less ' cookery. The nourishment to be obtained from
eggs is so desirable, that it is a pity to be under the
necessity of economizing in eggs.
Repeated tests at the various state experiment stations
have demonstrated that eggs properly packed in water
glass after three and one-half months still appeared to
be perfectly fresh. For in most packed eggs the yolk
settles to one side (a sure test of an egg not fresh laid),
but when packed in water glass, the yolks remained in
their original position as when fresh ; they lost no weight ;
they would ' beat up well ' for cakes or f rostings ; and
125
126 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
would keep four weeks after removal from the preserva-
tive solution. In other words, water glass adds no flavor
to the eggs, and takes away no flavor from them.
Dr. Wiley is authority for the statement that the shell
of an egg preserved in water glass is apt to burst in boil-
ing water. The trouble may be avoided by pricking the
shell carefully with a needle.
j
When eggs are cooked in water below boiling, I have
experienced no trouble with their breaking.
Water glass or soluble glass is the popular name for
potassium and sodium silicates. Commercial water glass,
often a mixture of both silicates, is much cheaper than
the chemically pure article, and is just as efficient for
preserving eggs. It is sold in two forms, a sirup thick as
molasses, and a powder.
The cost varies. \Vater glass sometimes sells as low
as a cent and three-quarters a pound in large quantities.
The retail price is commonly ten cents a pound. Some
of the water glass is extremely alkaline in reaction. Eggs
preserved :n such water glass will not keep well, so pur-
chase as nearly neutral water glass as possible. However,
it is perfectly safe to use the ordinary commercial water
glass, provided the dealer understands for what purpose
it is purchased. It is true that lime water may be cheaper
and just as effective as a preservative, but the water glass
is far preferable from the standpoint of flavor.
To Preserve Eggs in Water Glass
If the following directions are carefully observed,
fresh eggs may be eaten during the winter months at
approximately June prices :
Use clean receptacles of glass, earthenware, wood or
of most any material, if same is paraffined inside, and can
JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS 127
be sealed hermetically. I found one-half gallon screw-
cap glass jars, which will hold fourteen or fifteen eggs,
most satisfactory, and in every way advisable.
Common silicate of soda or water glass, a sirup thick
liquid, gives good results. It should be kept well sealed
by paraffined or vaselined paper, pasteboard or cork
stopper, or other cover impermeable to air and moisture,
to prevent it from hardening. Glass stoppered bottles,
however, should not be used, as a little silicate may find
its way to the ground neck, and it will be impossible to
remove the stopper, later on, as silicate of soda will
cement the stopper to the neck of the bottle.
The water should be pure, boiled water being prefer-
able.
One part of silicate of soda should be very thoroughly
mixed with ten parts of water.
The eggs must be clean, with strong, sound shells, but
they should not be washed, as this removes some of the
natural mucilaginous coating. They should be put into
the preserving fluid, if possible, the same day they are
laid, especially in summer, but this is not imperative.
Unfertilized eggs are not likely to spoil, even if they are
not so fresh. However, it is one of the strongest points
of this preserving method that fertilized eggs will keep
perfectly well, if the above precautions are taken. (In-
cubation is said to start on fresh, fertile eggs, if they are
kept for about twenty-four hours at a temperature of at
least 80 degrees F., but if the proper incubating tem-
perature— about 102.5 degrees F. — is not reached soon
and maintained, the egg germs will die and cause the
eggs to decay.) Hence the necessity for immediate im-
mersion in the case of fertilized eggs.
As soon as the eggs are packed in the preserving
liquid, the receptacle should be carefully sealed with a
128
THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
paraffined or vaselined paper or pasteboard, or with a
screw cap or other reliable and tight cover. This is
necessary not only to prevent water from volatilizing,
which would finally expose the upper eggs to the atmos-
phere, but also to prevent the carbonic acid of the air
from decomposing the silicate.
The eggs packed in well-sealed jars should be stored in
a cool place, especially at first, that is, before the egg germs
have lost their vitality. However, the temperature must
not drop below the freezing point.
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS
HY is it I can never get an egg cooked to suit
me in my own house? " asks many a man.
Because, oftentimes, the egg is put into cold
water, and the time is then noted, but even
when the egg has been in the water the re-
quested number of minutes, it has not been
cooked at a sufficiently high temperature for
a sufficiently long period. The difficulty is to obtain
uniform results, many factors affect the result : the size
and age of the egg, the size and kind of utensil and its
position on the stove, the temperature of the egg (an
egg from a refrigerator takes, of course, longer to react
to heat) and the amount of water. The table-cooked
egg is probably the surest, in obtaining uniformly cooked
eggs.
Taking all these possible conditions into account, the
best way to cook or " boil " an egg is not to boil, but to
cook it below the boiling point, say at about 180 to 190
degrees, F., because the egg albumen is toughened and
rendered leathery and indigestible when submitted to
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 129
the boiling point of 212 degrees, but remains jelly-like,
though firm, at the lower range of heat. Soft cooked
eggs should be cooked below boiling point. Following
is a test made in the laboratory of the University of
Illinois :
' Using a granite-ware stewpan of one-quart capacity,
one pint of water was heated over a gas flame ; when the
water boiled the gas was turned off, and an egg, which
had been kept in a refrigerator, was dropped into the
water. Without disturbing the vessel, it was covered
closely and the egg allowed to remain in the water six
minutes." It was then cooked soft. When the egg was
dropped into the water the temperature fell immediately
to 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and then slowly to 170 de-
grees. If the egg remained in the water eight minutes
it was medium-cooked, the temperature of the water at
the end of the period having fallen to 162 degrees.
Hard-" boiled ' eggs should be cooked for forty-five
to sixty minutes at 180 to 190 degrees, or they will be
tough and not mealy. If cooked below boiling point they
will be more easily digested. Should the shell crack,
pierce several small holes with a pin to keep contents
from flowing out.
Good results with soft cooked eggs can be obtained
if attention is given to details, and if the cook will only
remember the experience gained the last time she cooked
an egg in the same way. It is a safe rule, if one does
not have a thermometer, to keep the water below boiling
point. A double boiler is a splendid device for just this
process, as the water may boil below, while above it can
be kept below the boiling point. It is best, however, not
to let the water boil even in the lower saucepan.
In preparing for an egg dish of any sort, first break
the egg by a swift stroke of a knife into a dish that is
130 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
not to be used for the mixing. Then if by mischance
the egg is not up to the mark, it can be discarded and
will not spoil the rest of the mixture.
For poached eggs, have the water a little below 212
degrees, by pouring boiling water from a saucepan into
the shallow pan, which has been brushed over with oil
or butter. Break the egg carefully into a cup and slip
gently into the water, thinking all the time of having it
float, so lightly must it be transferred. The egg quickly
reduces the temperature to 185 degrees, which is correct
for poaching an egg. The top of the yolk should be
kept slightly emerging from the water. Let the egg cook
gently. Spread some water over the egg with a spoon
and when a film has formed over the yolk and when the
white is firm, lift each out with a skimmer, drain, smooth
the edges with a knife, if necessary, and place on hot
toast, which has been prepared beforehand. If the eggs
are fresh and cooked correctly, they will not need trim-
ming. Put a piece of butter, some pepper and salt on the
egg, and serve hot on very hot plates.
When properly poached the egg is jelly-like throughout
and the yolk is covered with a white film. Egg poachers
and muffin rings are often used for poaching eggs. Salt
and vinegar are oftentimes put into the water to prevent
the soluble albumen from being dissolved. This also adds
flavor to the eggs. Half a teaspoonful of vinegar for
six eggs will be sufficient. Poaching eggs is no ea-y
matter. Even a hotel chef will admit this ; but a little
care will bring good results.
The varieties of poached and boiled eggs reach the
hundreds. The eggs are cooked with cream, sauces,
anchovies, and combined with truffles, mushrooms, cheese,
sausages, etc., etc. The following recipes are variations
of the "boiled' and poached egg:
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 131
Deviled Eggs a la Fromage
Cut the desired number of hard-boiled eggs into halves,
taking out the yolks and leaving cup-shaped pieces.
Mash the yolks to a paste, adding an equal quantity of
rich cream cheese, a saltspoonful of paprika, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, a little minced parsley, and two table-
spoonfuls of cream ; fill into the halves and arrange on
a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, garnished with stuffed
olives.
A New Deviled Egg
Six hard-cooked eggs, one lemon, one box of sardines,
melted butter. Take the yolks out of the eggs, after
cutting in half mix with the sardines, season with salt,
paprika, and lemon. Add melted butter and put back in
the white of the egg, which is used as a mold.
Egg Plums
Dip some hard-boiled eggs for two days in grape juice,
to color them ; then stick a twig of plum leaves in one
end of each. By the use of artificial leaves, one may
serve " egg plums ' at any season of the year. Serve
cold as an hors d'ceuvre.
Eggs Bollerino
Poach eggs, and make a cream sauce. Chop six or
eight mushrooms, add to the cream sauce and place a
small sausage, cooked and split in half, on the toast be-
fore placing the egg upon the round.
132 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Poached Eggs with Creamed Celery
Arrange poached eggs in a circle on rounds of hot but-
tered toast ; fill in the center of the circle with two cup-
fuls of celery, cut into inch lengths and cooked in boil-
ing water until tender (about two hours), then stir it into
one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce. In making the
sauce use the water in which the celery was cooked for
one half, and the other half cream.
Ham and Spanish Eggs
Serve poached eggs on thin slices of broiled or fried
ham. When served on hot, highly seasoned steamed rice,
they are called Spanish eggs.
Eggs Poached in Tomatoes
Stew slowrly for ten minutes half a can of tomatoes
and one small onion, cut line. Season highly with salt
and pepper and butter. Break six eggs into a bowl with-
out beating, and when everything else is ready to serve,
slip them into the hot tomatoes. Lift the white care-
fully with a fork, as it cooks, until it is all firm; then
prick the yolks and let them mix with the tomato and
white. The mixture should be quite soft, but with the
red tomatoes, the white and yellow of the egg, quite dis-
tinct. Serve at once on toast.
Hamburg Eggs
Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablcspoon-
fuls of soft bread crumbs, and a teaspoonful of minced
parsley, seasoning to taste with salt, paprika, and celery
salt. Work all to a smooth paste, and with it line small
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 133
individual patty pans that have been brushed with melted
butter; break an egg carefully into each, and, after dust-
ing lightly with salt, cover with a mixture of melted
butter and browned bread crumbs, cooking for six min-
utes in a hot oven. Serve in the pans garnished with
parsley.
Whole Eggs with Smoked Beef
Hard cook six eggs, let them stand in cold water until
cold, and then carefully remove the shells. Heat three
cupfuls of milk in a double boiler. Mix one egg with
two tablespoonfuls flour and an equal amount of water
until smooth. Pour a little of the hot milk into it and
stir quickly, then stir the whole into the remainder of the
hot milk for a minute. Add a dash of pepper and set
the saucepan on the back of the stove. Season to taste
with salt, add the whole eggs and about a third of a
half-pound jar of smoked beef to the sauce. Heat
through but do not let mixture boil after salt is added.
Eggs and Cheese Cream
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two of grated
cheese and one teaspoonful of minced parsley or chervil.
When cheese is melted add four eggs, well beaten, a little
salt and paprika, a dash of nutmeg, and one-half tea-
spoonful of French mustard. Dust with paprika and
serve on toast.
Poached Eggs in Milk or Cream
Butter an egg poacher and half fill the pan beneath
with boiling wrater. Break in the required number of
i34 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
eggs, and as soon as they begin to grow firm, add two
tablespoonfuls of milk or cream. When firm, place upon
rounds of buttered toast and season with butter, salt, and
pepper. Garnish with parsley.
Scrambled Eggs, Crisfield
Take two or three spoonfuls of flaked crab meat, warm
it in cream, beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, season to
taste with salt and pepper, place in a buttered omelet
pan, then throw in crab flakes and cream and scramble
while cooking. This is sufficient for two.
Scotch Eggs
Divide one cupful of sausage meat (one-half pound)
into four equal portions. Remove four hard cooked
eggs from their shells and cover them with the sausage
meat. Roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry a
golden brown in hot deep fat. Cut the eggs through
the center and serve on rings of toast. This quantity
will serve four.
Bread, Eggs, and Bacon in Chafing Dish
Cut fresh white or entire wheat bread into half-inch
slices, remove crust, and cut in half-inch cubes. Put
one tablespoonful of butter in the chafing dish, add three
cupfuls of the bread, and toss it in the butter until it
has absorbed the butter and is slightly colored. Add four
tablespoonfuls of bacon fat and a dusting of salt and
pepper. Toss again, and when the fat is absorbed add
three wrell-beaten eggs, and as soon as they are slightly
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 135
cooked serve, surrounded with bacon, which has baked
or delicately sauted. This breakfast dish will serve four.
Eggs au Gratin
Remove shells from five hard-boiled eggs, and cut into
small pieces. Make a thick and richly seasoned milk
gravy, and fold in the eggs. Fill six green pepper shells
with this, sprinkle grated cheese and bits of butter on
tops, and brown in oven. Serve on chop plate, and gar-
nish with watercress or parsley. Eat hot, — with toast
sticks, made of bread cut into long strips, which have
beer browned in deep fat, seasoned, and drained, but
kept hot.
Baked Eggs with Cheese
Butter a baking platter and cover it with a layer of
grated cheese ; break six eggs upon it, cover with a layer
of cheese and dust with salt, pepper, and paprika. Pour
over it half a cupful of cream, cover with soft bread
crumbs, rolled in melted butter, then dust with salt,
paprika, and a light sprinkling of mustard. Bake until
cheese is melted.
Piquant Scrambled Eggs
Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces, add a slice
of chopped onion, and cook in boiling salted water until
tender; drain, dredge lightly with flour, and saute in
butter until brown. Beat four eggs, add three table-
spoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains
of paprika, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley; pour
136 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
into the pan containing the celery and cook, stirring con-
stantly, until the whole is a light, creamy mass. Serve on
triangles of hot toast, garnishing with watercress and a
few grilled sardines, if liked.
Belmont Eggs
Brown some slices of bread in the oven. Do not toast
them but lay them in a rather hot oven till slightly brown.
Moisten in warm salted milk and butter them. Break
eggs carefully one at a time into a cup and slip into
simmering salted water one inch deep in a saucepan.
Toss the water over the yolks till a delicate pink. Slip
on to the toast, one to a slice, and surround with chopped
meat heated in butter.
Eggs a la Golden Rod
Cook four eggs for forty-five minutes, and when they
are cold shell and dice them ; meanwhile prepare a rich
cream sauce by adding to one and one-half tablespoonful>
of melted butter the same quantity of Hour, when thor-
oughly blended add two cupfuls of hot milk; as soon as
the sauce boils season it highly with salt and paprika,
adding the eggs and a heaping cupful of grated cheese;
cook only until the cheese is melted and serve on rounds
of hot buttered toast.
An English Egg
Select a small, firm tomato. Cut out the stem end and
scoop out the seeds and soft center. Sprinkle with salt
and turn upside down to drain. Then sprinkle with
pepper and finely chopped parsley. Break a raw egg into
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 137
the tomato and add salt and pepper. Arrange the pre-
pared tomatoes (not too close together) in a buttered
pan and place in a hot oven for a few minutes.
Cheese Timbales
Beat four eggs slightly, add one cupful of milk, one-
half teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper,
ten drops onion juice, and one-half cupful of grated
cheese. Pour into buttered cups or timbale molds, set
molds in a pan of hot water, and bake until firm. They
may be tested as any baked custard, by putting the point
of a knife into the center of the custard. If it comes
out with no custard clinging to it, the timbale is done.
Remove from mold to a hot platter, and serve with a
cream of tomato sauce.
Cereal Omelet
To one cupful of any cold cooked cereal add two well-
beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of
paprika, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Melt
one tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan, turn in
the mixture, and cook with moderate heat until firm.
Fold, turn out upon a hot platter, and garnish with
bacon.
Rice Omelet
One cupful of cold boiled rice, one cupful of warm
milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one level tea-
spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper,
three well-beaten eggs. Melt one tablespoonful of butter
138 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
in a hot frying-pan, and pour in the mixture. Bake in
a hot oven ; fold over once, and serve on a hot platter.
Cheese Custard
Cut bread into slices one inch thick ; remove crusts,
and cut into cubes. Butter a baking dish, and put in a
layer of bread cubes, then a layer of grated cheese ; pro-
ceed until two cupfuls of cheese have been used. Mix
together one beaten egg, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-
fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one and one-half cup-
fuls of milk. Pour over cheese, and bake until nicely
browned. Serve at once.
Omelet Lattard
One cupful of eggplant cut in dice, one cupful of
bacon cut in dice, one-half cupful of apple cut in dice.
First place a piece of butter in a pan. When melted
add the bacon, the eggplant, and then the apple in
succession, so that they will all be cooked tender at the
same time. Season with salt and pepper. When done,
take them out of the pan with a perforated spoon or
skimmer, so as to leave the butter in the pan.
In the meanwhile beat the five fresh eggs, adding a
tablespoonful of cold water (not milk or cream) and
seasoning to taste. Proceed to make the omelet in the
pan containing the stock in which the above ingredients
were cooked.
As soon as the eggs begin to harden, throw in the
garniture of eggplant, bacon, and apple. When the
omelet comes to a satisfactory turn, fold, dish out, and
serve, adding over it a little of the residue in the pan, if
there be any.
JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 139
Potato Omelet
Beat the yolks of three eggs very light. Season one
cupful of mashed potatoes with one saltspoonful of salt,
one-half cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of sifted flour,
a little chopped parsley, pepper to taste, and a little
lemon juice, if liked. Beat the yolks of the eggs into
this, then the well beaten whites. Heat an omelet-pan,
butter, and when piping hot, pour the potato omelet into
it. Brown lightly, turn, and serve very hot.
Spinach Omelet
Make a French omelet, using four eggs, four table-
spoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and
pepper. Have the omelet pan hot, put into it one table-
spoonful of butter, and turn in the egg mixture. As the
egg sets, lift with a knife, never allowing it to become
hard. When nearly all the egg is firm, begin to fold the
omelet ; turn onto a bed of spinach, and serve at once.
Any left-over spinach may be reheated with cream and
butter and be used for this omelet.
Bacon and Potato Omelet
Cut three slices bacon in tiny dice and fry until crisp.
Add to fat and bacon dice two cold boiled potatoes, cut in
small cubes, and season well with salt and pepper. Beat
two eggs slightly, pour them over the bacon and potatoes.
Cook until the eggs are set, then fold like an omelet.
Eggs in Baked Potatoes
Scrub and bake six large potatoes. When quite done,
prick to let out the steam, then cut off the tops length-
140 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
wise of the potatoes. Remove the potato, mash, and
season. Use plenty of milk, two tablespoonfuls or more
of butter, salt, paprika, and a grating of nutmeg. Half
fill the potato shells with the mixture and arrange in a
baking pan. Break six eggs, and slip one into each potato
case. Cover with grated cheese and buttered seasoned
crumbs and bake in a moderate oven until brown and
the eggs are set.
Ripe Olive Omelet
Beat four eggs slightly, add four tablespoonfuls of milk.
one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoon fill
of pepper. Heat three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in an
omelet-pan, add the egg, and as soon as it begins to set,
lift, letting the uncooked mixture run to the bottom of
the pan. Continue until the egg is set but creamy in
appearance. Add one-half cupful of ripe olives, cut in
strips; fold the omelet, and serve with or without a
sauce. For a luncheon dish, however, the following sauce
is good :
Ripe Olive Sauce
Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter ; add three table-
spoonfuls of flour, and continue the browning. Then
add one cupful of brown stock, or one cupful of boiling
water and one teaspoonful of meat extract, and cook
until thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika,
and add one-fourth cupful of ripe olives (cut into small
strips), and one tablespoonful each of chopped red and
green peppers.
MORE W AYS OF COOKING EGGS 141
142 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS
MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 143
144 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS
FISH
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
OMMONLY, we discriminate in our ideas of
animal products between fish, fowl, and flesh.
From a nutritional point of view, there is,
however, little difference between them.
They all are composed essentially of two
principal ingredients, namely, protein, which
is the ideal tissue builder, and fat, which is
the ideal source of heat and energy. But although from
a chemical point of view they are of about equal value
nutritionally, they appeal in quite a different way to the
taste of the consumer. Fish, as a continued diet, would
soon pall upon the appetite. It, therefore, should not
be used at every dinner. This statement may be modi-
fied, however, when we include with fish the shellfish,
such as the oyster, the crab, the clam, and the lobster.
By reason of the different properties of these foods, it
is entirely possible to serve one of them every day at
some one of the meals without overstepping the bounds
of gustatory propriety. As foods, fish are quite the
equal, weight for weight, with meats, with the exception,
of course, of the oyster and the clam, which contain a
great deal more moisture than the ordinary fish, the
crab, or the lobster. From a nutritional point of view,
fish is an unbalanced diet ; that is, it consists largely of
protein. It is, therefore, proper to eat with fish a highly
starchy adjuvant, such as rice, potatoes, or bread. I do
145
146 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
not mean by this that these should necessarily be a part
of the fish course. In my opinion, the best way to eat
fish is to eat nothing with it but the sauce, and very
little of that. The vegetables and other adjuvants of
the meal are best served separately. One important
thing about a fish diet is that there are many varieties,
such as the herring and the cod and the salmon, which
occur in such large quantities as to render them relatively
cheap sources of protein. It is true that fish are often
sold at a high price through the manipulations of the
market at or near the source of supply, but they are the
cheapest form of animal food available. Fish, when
fresh, should be distinctly fresh, and when cured should
be well cured. The intermediate conditions are danger-
ous. Those who live near the source of supply can well
afford, economically and dietetically, to increase their
rations of fish, and all could profitably increase the
amounts of dried fish used. Dried herring, salmon,
haddock, and cod, offer a most palatable and economic
method of increasing the proteins in the ration, a lesson
that our European brothers have learned and applied to
their profit. Our American cooks show a painful lack
of ingenuity in adapting the less palatable and less ex-
pensive fish and meats by skillful cooking and the use of
sauces as is done abroad. In Germany classes were es-
tablished to teach the art of cooking fish and thus extend
and improve the menu at small cost. The fish recipe-
offered have, therefore, an economic value as well as an
interest from the gustatory and nutritional point of
view.
ST HOW TO COOK FISH
should be a great resource of the house-
life. Its use not only adds another course,
lother possibility, but variety and delicious-
>ss to the diet.
In buying fish select those showing plainly
lat they are fresh ; those with bright
|es, firm flesh, shiny scales, red gills, and
;ware of one with dull, sunken eyes, dry
loosened, or flesh so soft that it shows an
the finger is pressed against it. Fish is at
eaten as quickly as possible after being
fen fish is perfectly wholesome but should be
m after thawing as possible, therefore the
:e purchases the fish while frozen and thaws
In home, rather than to have the thawing
sh market. Frozen fish spoils quickly after
[hat this is merely a safe precaution. One
to find firm flesh in fish that has once been
it this old-time " rule for fresh fish" must
kl in selecting fish that are shipped frozen,
fish we pay for a great deal of waste ma-
|has to be thrown away. This amounts in
70 per cent, of the total weight. So it
more economical to buy a solid slice from
a seemingly high price than to buy a whole
a lower price per pound.
147
148 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Preparation for Cooking
Did you ever watch a guide or sportsman prepare a
fish for broiling over a wood fire on the shore, or in the
woods? The deftness and ease with which he scales and
cleans it may be employed with as good results at home.
He grasps the fish firmly and scales it first, working from
the tail toward the head. The blade of the knife should
be held slightly slanting against the fish, so that the
scales fall back on the knife. When necessary rinse
the blade in cold water and continue to work until no
scales are left. Then split the fish open from the gills
half way down the lower part of the body, take out the
entrails, and wash the fish carefully inside and out. If
the fish is small, as smelts, it may be cleaned by cutting
a slit at the gills, bending back the head, and pressing
the entrails out through the opening. This leaves the
body of the fish in better shape than if it were cleaned in
the usual way. When fish are bought in market they
are generally cleaned and scaled. If necessary, complete
the process, being careful to remove every trace of blood
which may have remained on the inside along the bone.
Wash the fish under the faucet or wipe it <>ff with a damp
cloth and then wipe it dry. The fish is now ready for
cooking unless it is desired boned.
Any fish may be boned, but those with small bones,
such as shad, or herring, are not so frequently prepared
in this way as cod or haddock, from which the bones
may be more easily removed. Ik-fore starting work, rub
the fingers over with salt, so that the fish may be held
without slipping. Then cut off the head, cut down both
sides of the fin on the back the entire length of the fish,
and pull off this strip of skin. Loosen the rest of the skin
below the head and pull it off, first on one side of the fish
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 149
and then on the other. Now begin at the tail and work
toward the head, scraping the flesh from each side of the
backbone and removing the backbone and spine entire.
A few small bones will probably be left sticking in the
flesh, but these may be easily pulled out.
The fish is now in pieces, freed from skin and bone,
and ready to cook as desired. These strips of fish are
called fillets, and may be used whole or cut into small
pieces. Recipes often call for fillets of halibut or other
large fish. To prepare these cut off the skin which is
around the edge of the slice, remove the bone in the cen-
ter, and cut the flesh into pieces the right size for in-
dividual service.
To Boil Fish
Unless one has risen early in the morning and gone
in a dory to the salmon weir bringing back her fish with
her to be broiled for breakfast or boiled for dinner, she
has not known what salmon is. Hard and firm as beef-
steak, enticing in color, delicate in flavor, this in its real
home is a treat. And salmon, because of its texture and
the distribution of the oil in its body, is one of the best
of fishes to cook by boiling. Boiling in general is a
wasteful and tasteless way of cooking fish, but such firm
and well-flavored varieties as salmon and bluefish may
be cooked in this way. In the cooking of both meats and
fish there is a Scylla and a Charybdis to avoid, and
a middle course which must be pursued. Two things
have to be kept in view in the boiling of fish — the effect
of cold water and the appearance of the fish. Cold water
draws out the juices; boiling water will contract and
crack the skin. It is therefore necessary to cook the fish
at the simmering point and with care.
150 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Place the fish on a fish rack or sheet, or tie in a piece
of cheesecloth, and place in hot water to which has been
added a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar
or lemon juice to each two quarts of water or stock.
Bring quickly to boiling point, then let it cook at the
simmering point until thoroughly done, no longer. Count
the time from the moment the water reaches boiling
point, estimating from five to eight minutes to a pound,
depending upon the thickness of the fish, a thick solid fish
taking longer than a slim, more delicate one. The fish
is done when the flesh separates readily from the bones.
When the fish is cooked lift it carefully from the water,
drain, remove cloth, and serve on a folded napkin to
absorb any extra liquid from the fish. Garnish with
parsley or cress, and slices of lemon or beets, and serve
with a hollandaise, bechamel, or drawn-butter sauce.
The decrease in nutritive value and flavor when a fish
is boiled causes the use of what is called a court bouillon
in the place of water. This is merely a stock made by
sauteing vegetables, such as celery, carrot, and onion,
chopped fine, in butter, adding vinegar, cloves, bay leaf,
etc., and boiling with the addition of water until this is
\\cll-flavored. The fish is cooked in this, or it may be
put in the water and the vegetables, spices, etc., added
directly to this for the cooking process.
Fish is often marinated before cooking. Brush the
flesh over with olive oil and sprinkle it with lemon juice;
lay on top, slices of onion and strips of red or green
pepper. Drain the fish and cook as desired. Cooked
fish which is to be used as a salad is much improved by
standing for several hours in equal parts of olive oil and
vinegar, a little salt and paprika, and a few drops of
onion juice. Drain, mix with salad dressing, and serve
on crisp lettuce leaves.
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 151
The Baking of Fish
The head and tail may be left on a fish that is to be
baked. Fill the cavity with dressing, being careful not
to get it so full that there will be no room for expansion
of the crumbs during cooking. Sew the sides of the fish
together over the dressing, using buttered string, so that
it may be easily removed when the fish is served. If the
fish is lean and dry, lard it as follows: Cut four or five
gashes on each side of the backbone and insert in each
a strip of salt pork to furnish fat during baking, thus
adding juiciness and flavor to the flesh.
When the fish is to be served whole it should be trussed
in an upright position, if possible. It bakes more evenly,
browns better, and is more easily served. It is better to
keep a baking dish or pan to be used solely for fish, the
fishy taste being more difficult to remove ; or use paper
bags. Dredge the fish with salt and pepper ; put pieces
of salt pork in the pan under and around the fish, but
add no water unless needed. The oven should be hot at
first, so that the fish will brown in about thirty minutes.
Then reduce the heat and bake the fish slowly for a
second half-hour, basting it often with the fat in the pan.
Slices or fillets of fish are often baked in milk in an
earthen dish, and are delicious. The bone may be re-
moved from the center of a slice of fish, the cavity filled
with dressing, and the top covered with buttered crumbs.
Bake for about thirtv minutes, and serve with a cream or
v'
hollandaise sauce. Small pieces of fish can be cooked
with vegetables in a casserole very much as meat is
cooked, and are a novelty.
The Broiling Process
Any small, flat fish may be broiled, or a slice from a
large fish used. An oily fish, however, is much better
152 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
cooked in this way than a dry fish, as the fat present
prevents the flesh from becoming hard. In fact, there
are certain fish that connoisseurs say should he cooked
in no other way.
If a whole fish is to be broiled, remove all scales, and
split the fish down the backbone. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and if the ilesh of the fish is dry instead of oily,
spread it with soft butter or olive oil. Heat a wire
broiler and grease it thoroughly with a piece of salt pork.
Place the fish inside the broiler, with the thin part in the
middle folded over so as to have a fish of even thickness.
Hold the flesh side near the heat until browned ; turn
and brown on the skin side. Broil slowly on the flesh
side for about twenty minutes more, then broil on the
skin side for ten. Remove from the broiler to the serving
platter, garnish, and serve.
If the broiling is to be done in a gas stove, the fish
may be placed in a greased tin, skin side down, and put
under the flame in the broiling oven. Leave the burners
on full until the fish is nicely browned ; then turn them
down as low as possible and let the fish cook for about
thirty minutes.
A planked fish is prepared in a similar way, except
that the fish is cooked on an oiled plank instead of a tin.
Before serving, a border of mashed potatoes is piped
around the fish and browned slightly in the oven, vege-
tables are added, the plank is garnished as elaborately
as desired, and sent to the table.
How to Fry
Small fish or fillets of large fish may be covered with
egg and crumbs and fried in deep fat. Wash the fish
and dry them thoroughly, being careful not to bruise the
JUST HOU7 TO COOK FISH 153
flesh. Roll in egg, slightly beaten and diluted with two
tablesrjoonfuls of cold water, and cover with fine bread
crumbs. Or, if you prefer, dip the fish in a thin batter.
The outside of the fish must be completely covered with
something which will cook instantly wrhen plunged into
the hot fat. Have enough hot fat in a deep frying pan to
entirely cover the fish. Put a few fish in a frying basket
at a time and brown in hot fat. Drain on brown paper
and serve with tartare or some other as highly seasoned
sauce. Extreme care must be taken, especially in frying
fish, to cook long enough to be thoroughly done, but not
so long that flesh becomes dry and hard.
The three points to observe in successful frying are to
have the fat smoking hot, a fat-proof covering over the
fish, and that after frying the fish should be thoroughly
drained before serving.
Sauted Fish
To saute means to brown first on one side and then on
the other in a small amount of fat. Rich, oily fish should
not be cooked in this way, as they are already too rich in
fat, which changes in flavor if allowed to cook from the
fish and become overheated.
Wash the fish and wipe dry. Season with salt and
pepper, cover with Indian meal or white flour. Cook
some salt pork in a hot frying pan until the fat is \vell
tried out. Put in the fish and let them cook until nicely
browned on both sides. Be careful not to have the fire
so hot that the fish will burn before it cooks through.
Halibut in Lemon Sauce
Three pounds of halibut, cut into pieces, four inches
long and one inch thick, two onions, medium size, sliced
154 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
thin, two cupfuls of water, three tablespoonfuls of oil,
one tablespoonful each of ground ginger and mace, and
one-eighth teaspoonful of red pepper dissolved in one
cupful of boiling water, one cupful of strained lemon
juice, three tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of
chopped parsley, three eggs, one-half cupful of canned
tomatoes. Wash the fish, then salt it, let it stand for
two hours; take the water, onions, and oil, and boil until
the onions are cooked, then pour this into a bowl. Put
the fish in a saucepan, pour the onion mixture over the
fish, also the dissolved spices and tomatoes ; boil until
the fish is cooked. l!eat the eggs and flour together, then
add the lemon juice, pour a little of the gravy that is on
the fish into this, beat well so that the eggs will not
curdle, pour this on the fish and let it simmer for a few
minutes, place the fish on a platter, and the sauce in a
gravy bowl. Set aside to cool. Any fish can be used,
but it will not be as rich.
Baked Halibut
From a slice of halibut about four inches thick, care-
fully remove the bone and spread the fish apart. Fill
the hole with bread dressing seasoned with butter, salt,
a very little onion and sage. Cover the top with thin
slices of bacon. Place on a rack in a baking pan with a
little water and baste until baked. Set the bacon aside,
and when ready to serve, place around the fish. The
bacon will burn if left on the fish until baked. Thicken
the gravy and serve separately.
Mexican Codfish
Saute to a pale yellow a small onion chopped fine, in
three tablespoonfuls of butter ; then add two tablespoon-
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 155
fuls of flour, half a green pepper minced, and a cupful
of stewed and strained tomato pulp. When the sauce
reaches the boiling point, add half a pound of flaked cod-
fish that has been slightly freshened in cold water, and
parboiled ; simmer slowly for ten minutes, and serve very
hot, garnished with triangles of fried bread.
Planked Salmon with Potato Balls
Have the salmon cut in steaks one and one-half or two
inches thick. Two steaks of average size can be placed
on a medium-sized plank. Oil the plank thoroughly,
place the fish upon it, and broil under a gas broiler,
turning the flame low after the first few moments. Or
it can be baked in the oven of a range. Serve on the
plank, surrounded by potato balls cut with a French
vegetable cutter. Heat one-fourth cupful of cream, add
salt and pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of finely
chopped parsley. Shake the potato balls in this until
well covered with the seasonings. Serve hollandaise
sauce with the planked salmon.
Baked Salt Mackerel
Soak one large mackerel over night, drain and rinse
in clear water. Place in a well-buttered casserole with
the flesh side up. Or better still, cook the mackerel in a
well-buttered paper bag. Cover the fish with two table-
spoonfuls of melted butter and sprinkle well with finely
grated bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper or paprika.
If the mackerel is not baked in the paper bag add two
tablespoonfuls of water, being careful not to get it on top
156 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
of the mackerel, which would destroy its crispness. Bake
in a moderate oven until the crumbs are brown and the
fish flaky and white. Serve on a platter with thin slices
of lemon.
Baked Halibut, Spanish Style
Have a slice of halibut weighing two pounds cut three
inches thick. Place in a buttered pan, cover with one
cupful of tomatoes (canned, or three fresh ones), one
thinly sliced onion, one chopped green pepper, salt, pep-
per, one cupful of water, and one-fourth cupful of but-
ter. Bake slowly until fish is done, and serve with the
vegetables.
Codfish Puff
Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one pint, add
one pint of codfish picked in small pieces. Place in a
saucepan, cover with culd water and bring slowly to
boiling point. Drain off this water, cover with boiling
water, and cook until the potato is dene; drain and
mash fine. Melt one tablespoonful of butter, add the
same amount of flour and rub smooth ; add one and one-
half cupfuls of milk, then the fish and potato mixture,
and cook five minutes. Cool, add the beaten yolks of
three eggs, then the beaten whites, turn into a buttered
baking dish, and bake slowly thirty-five minutes. Serve
immediately as for any souffle.
Salpicon of Codfish
Prepare rounds of crisp buttered toast, covering each
with a layer of minced button mushrooms, season highly
JUST HOir TO COOK FISH 157
with salt and paprika, and heap upon each toast circle
a tablespoonful of flaked boiled codfish ; place in a shal-
low baking pan, pour over a rich hollandaise sauce and
bake in a moderate oven until heated through. Serve
immediately, garnished with crisp, blanched celery.
Creamed Codfish
Soak over night some good salt codfish. In the morn-
ing, drain, and cut into small pieces. To one cup of fish
add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into cubes.
Season with salt and pepper, and add cream enough to
cover. Cook slowly one-half hour. The cream thickens
by evaporation, and the potatoes and fish are very deli-
cate prepared this way. Serve with fresh tomatoes,
dressed with oil and vinegar, in the season of tomatoes.
Salmon Jelly Salad
Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatin in two
tablespoonfuls of cold water; add half a cupful of boil-
ing water, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper.
Strain and place the bowl in ice water; stir until it
begins to stiffen, then add one cupful of cold flaked
salmon, half a cupful of finely cut celery, and two table-
spoonfuls of peas. When stiff enough, fill small indi-
vidual molds, which have been wet with cold water, and
chill. Turn out upon lettuce leaves and garnish with
mayonnaise.
Salmon Shells
Remove all skin, bones, and oil from a one-pound
can of salmon. Break into bits. Add a chopped boiled
158 THE PURE FOOD COOK £OOK
egg. Add one cupful of bread (one day old). Stir
into thickened cream, a cupful for this amount. Fill
green pepper shells. Top off with butter, and bread
or cracker crumbs. Bake till brown, and serve.
Parisian Salmon
The salmon should be cut if possible from the middle
of the fish in rather thick slices. After it is washed
and dried, wrap it securely in cheesecloth and let it sim-
mer until tender in soup stock, to which have been added
a bay leaf, two chopped onions, a stalk of celery, one
diced carrot, and some parsley, then drain and place on
a hot platter, pouring over the following sauce: Place in
the upper part of the double boiler a cupful of milk,
adding, when hot, half a teaspoonful of meat extract,
salt, and celery salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of corn-
starch dissolved in a little cold water ; be sure the sauce
boils at least twice, and then >tir in a cupful of asparagus
tips. Serve garnished with a border of mashed potatoes
and a tiny circle of green peas.
Salmon Salad
A can of salmon makes a delicious salad if used in any
of these combinations : a few finely cut capers and a
stalk of celery ; a diced cucumber, and a quarter of a
Bermuda onion finely shaved ; two tomatoes sliced, and
four small cucumber pickles, minced finely. In all these
the salmon is marinated, broken into pieces, and the
mayonnaise dressing, in which the vegetables have been
lightly tossed, is poured over one large mound of salad
or individual small ones.
•JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 159
Molded Mackerel
Clean and cut a small mackerel in thick slices. Place
in a kettle, cover with three cupfuls of cold water, and add
one slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf,
two whole cloves, and six peppercorns (whole pepper) ;
simmer for an hour. Remove the fish and separate into
pieces freed from skin and bones. To the liquor in which
the fish was cooked, add one tablespoonful of gelatine,
which has been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold
water. Season with salt and pepper. Strain into molds,
which have been wet with cold water, placing pieces of
the mackerel in the bottom. Chill, unmold on lettuce
leaves, and serve with the following sauce : Beat one-
half cupful of cream until -stiff, add two tablespoonfuls
of grated horseradish, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-
fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one tablespoonful of
vinegar.
New England Fish Chowder
Select a good haddock or cod. Cut in small pieces.
Slice a two-inch cube of salt pork into strips, place in a
stew pan, and fry out the fat. Remove the pork, and put
in a layer of fish, then a layer of sliced onions, and alter-
nate in this wray until all the fish is used. Mix some
flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with
pepper and salt, and boil for half an hour. Have ready
some crackers, which have been softened by soaking in
cold water, butter each cracker a little, then put them in
the chowder just before serving.
Fish Stew
Clean and cut into pieces any variety of fish, includ-
ing clams or lobster — or use again any cooked fish. Allow
160 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
a half-pound for each person. Place in a casserole a
cupful of oil, with an onion, two tomatoes, a tablespoon-
ful of finely chopped parsley, three crushed cloves of
garlic, a bay leaf, some fennel, a little orange rind, a
pinch of saffron, and a clash of cayenne pepper ; place
over a brisk fire for three minutes ; then add the fish,
the firmest pieces first ; cover with boiling water, allow to
boil hard for twelve minutes. Pour the bouillon over
slices of toasted bread. Serve the fish with bones re-
moved, in a separate dish.
Cream of Fish Soup
Whenever one has boiled fish, or perhaps baked fillets
of haddock, the head and bones should be saved. Put
into a kettle, cover with cold water, add a slice of onion
and carrot, a bit of bay leaf, and cook slowly for an
hour. Strain off the liquor, and for each quart add two
tablespoonfuls each of butter and Hour cooked together.
Boil five minutes, season with one teaspoonful of salt,
one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and add one cupful of
thin cream. Let this boil up once, season more if neces-
sary, and, just before serving, add two tablespoonfuls of
finely chopped parsley. Sometimes one might have a
few peas left from dinner, and they may be added to the
soup, or a tablespoon ful of carrot dice, giving a touch
of color, as well as adding flavor.
Broiled Oysters a la Francais
Butter ten scallop shells and place four or five oysters
in each. Mince one large onion, and half a clove of
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 161
garlic, and cook in five tablespoonfuls of butter until a
delicate brown. Add oyster liquor, with a half -cupful of
water, one cupful of crisp bread crumbs, and one tea-
spoonful of minced parsley ; season with salt, pepper, and
cayenne. Mix thoroughly and fill scallop shells. Dot
them with bits of butter and place shells on a tin sheet.
Broil quickly and serve at once.
Scalloped Oysters
Crush a dozen unsweetened crackers and put a layer
in the bottom of a well-buttered bake-dish. Wet this
with the liquor of the oyster juice, and milk warmed
together. Then add a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with
salt and white pepper, and dot with bits of butter. Then
add another stratum of the moistened crumbs, and pro-
ceed in this order until the dish is full. The topmost
layer should be of crumbs and thicker than the rest.
Beat the yolk of an egg into what is left of the oyster
liquor and milk, and moisten the uppermost layer with
this. Stick bits of butter thickly all over it and bake, cov-
ered, for half an hour. Then uncover and brown lightly.
There is no more delightful preparation of oysters than
this.
Savory Shrimps in Chafing Dish
Melt one tablespoonful of butter in the blazer and
add two or three drops of onion juice; add one cupful
of cream and one cupful of boiled rice. Shred one can
of shrimps, which have been well washed in cold water,
and add to the mixture. When thoroughly heated, add
1 62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
half a cupful of tomato catsup. Season with salt and
pepper if necessary, and serve on crackers or toast.
Crabs and Shrimps, Spanish Style
For this purpose use the best quality of canned shrimps
or crabs, if fresh ones are not obtainable. Cook two
tablespoonfuls of butter with one of minced green pepper,
one-half teaspoonful of minced onion, and one table-
spoonful of chili sauce, or tomato catsup, until brown.
Put away until required. Cook one tablespoonful of
butter with one of flour, add one-half cup of rich milk,
and when boiling add the green pepper mixture, one-
half cup of shrimps, and the same of crabs, or use but
one of these and a few fresh mushrooms cooked in
butter. These could be cooked in the chafing-dish pan
before making the sauce.
Crab Rabbit
Prepare this on the chafing dish and have the toast
made beforehand. Melt three teaspoon fuls of butter,
and add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook this
well, then add one and one-fourth cupfuls of cream, and
cook until it is thick, not allowing it to boil ; season it
with cayenne pepper, salt, and a little minced parsley;
add to it one and a half cupfuls of chopped, boiled crab
meat; when it is well heated add three tablespoonfuls
of Parmesan cheese and two tcaspoonfuls of Worcester-
shire sauce.
Flaked Crab Meat in the Chafing Dish
Utilize the contents of a can of crab meat and with a
silver fork flake it into small pieces, adding two chopped
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 163
hard cooked eggs, one tablespoonful of minced parsley,
and salt and paprika to taste ; meanwhile prepare in the
chafing dish about two cupfuls of rich cream sauce, by
blending together two even tablespoonfuls each of melted
butter and flour and adding one cupful of milk or cream ;
be sure that the sauce boils, then stir in the other ingre-
dients, and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast, gar-
nishing each portion with a little grated egg yolk. This
can be served in crab shells.
Hollandaise Sauce
Beat one-half a cupful of butter to a cream. Add the
yolks of three eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly into
the butter. Season with salt and paprika or a few grains
of cayenne pepper. The sauce should not be hot with
pepper. Put the mixture into a double boiler, gradually
add one-half a cupful of boiling water, and cook, stirring
constantly until the sauce thickens. Add one teaspoonful
of lemon juice and remove from fire. The curdling oc-
curs when the sauce is overcooked or heated. The eggs
then cook hard in grains, and it gives the appearance
of curdling.
Drawn Butter Sauce
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, gradually add two
tablespoonfuls of flour and one cupful of boiling water.
When smooth and cooked sufficiently, add one-fourth
teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper.
Lobster Sauce
Boil a small lobster and remove meat. Place bones
and tough meat at end of claws in a sauce-pan with three
1 64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
cupfuls of cold water, a slice of onion, and of carrot,
sprig of parsley, bit of bayleaf, and a few peppercorns.
Simmer for half an hour — and strain off the liquor. Melt
three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoonfuls
of flour, and pour on one cupful of the strained liquor.
When thickened, add one-half cupful of cream, and salt
and pepper to taste, also one-fourth teaspoonful of
paprika, and the meat of the lobster cut in small pieces.
If one wishes to use the meat for a salad, the sauce is ex-
cellent in flavor without the pieces of meat.
Mock Hollandaise
Melt one tablespoonful of butter ; add one tablespoon-
ful of flour, one-half cupful of milk, and cook until
thickened. Then add one-half cupful of butter a little
at a time ; yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon
juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful
of paprika, and a little cayenne.
Planked Lake Superior White Fish
Procure a large white fish (Isle Royale is best), have
it properly boned ; cut thin slices of salt pork ; have an
oak board, long enough for the fish and about one and
one-half inches thick ; put slices of pork on the board
for a bed upon which to place the fish. Season with
pepper, salt, and celery salt. You may add other season-
ings if you wish. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes,
or until a delicate brown. When the fish has been cooked
twenty minutes, pipe hot mashed potato around the edge
of the plank, brush the edges of the potato with the
beaten yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of
JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 165
milk, and set the plank in a hot oven to brown the edges
of the potato and finish cooking the fish. Garnish with
lettuce and thin slices of lemon. Serve hollandaise
sauce with this.
Creamed Salt Codfish
Soak the fish overnight in cold water. Drain, and cut
or pick the fish into small pieces, having two cupfuls.
Into an iron frying-pan put the fish, with three table-
spoonfuls of butter, and sprinkle over two level table-
spoonfuls of flour. Stir until butter is melted, then add
enough milk just to cover the fish, and allow this to
cook slowly until thickened. Season with pepper and salt,
if necessary, and just before serving add one slightly
beaten egg, mixed with a little of the liquid. Serve on
toast, or in a deep dish, garnished with triangular pieces
of toast.
Cape Cod Creamed Fish and Potatoes
Soak salt codfish for several hours in cold water.
Drain and cut into small pieces. Cut cold cooked
potatoes into dice, and mix with the fish, having equal
quantities of fish and potatoes. Put into a saucepan with
them sufficient cream to cover the fish and potatoes ; sea-
son to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and cook
slowly until cream thickens, about forty minutes.
Shad Roe Croquettes
f
Cover one set of shad roe with boiling water, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and simmer twenty minutes. Drain,
remove the membrane with a silver fork, and mash the
1 66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
roe. Season with a teaspoonful of grated onion, a half-
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a grating of nut-
meg, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Heat a half-pint of milk in a saucepan; when hot,
stir in two level tahlespoonfuls of butter rubbed with the
same amount of flour. When smooth, take from the fire
and add a half-cupful of soft bread-crumbs, two hard-
boiled eggs chopped fine, and a dash of black pepper.
Add the shad roe ; mix, and cool. Then form into
cylinders, clip in egg beaten with a tablespoonful of
water, roll in dry bread-crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat.
MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 167
MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH
MORE WAYS OF COOKING I'ISH 169
170 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH
POULTRY
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
LOSELY related to fish is poultry. Poultry
has fallen into partial disfavor in this coun-
try by reason of the insanitary methods of
handling it. There is perhaps a greater
quantity of unfit poultry offered on the
American markets than any other one kind
of food. Things are getting very much
better now since Dr. M. E. Pennington, of the U. S.
Department of Agriculture, has studied and made public
the proper methods of handling poultry from producer
to consumer. In years gone by, immense quantities of
poultry have been put into cold storage in an unfit state
and, naturally, they were not improved when taken out.
Cold storage, however, may be used with advantage,
both with fish and poultry, and other food products,
when these products are in a proper condition to be
stored at the time of entry into the warehouse. One
objection to poultry at the present day is its high price.
We probably pay more for a given amount of nutrition
in the form of poultry than in almost any other form of
meat. Poultry, therefore, is, when properly preserved
and prepared, more a food for the well-to-do than for
the poor.
171
JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY
FEW simple rules cover the selection of all
poultry. In the first place, the bones should
be tender; that is, if one places the fore-
finger of the right hand in the hollow of the
neck (at the elbow of the wishbone) and
the thumb of the same hand at the end of the
breastbone and then contracts the hand gently,
if the bird is young and tender the bone will give ; if it
is old and tough, the bone will be stiff and hard, and
impossible to bend. The same is true of the wings. If
the bones are tender and bend under pressure, the bird
is young.
There is another test for wings, akin to that used in
the testing of fish. If, when the wings are pulled out,
they spring back into shape when released, it is a sign
of young meat. The same thing is true of the feet of the
bird. If, when spread apart, they collapse easily, the bird
is young. The breastbone and wingbones may be broken
in order to make the unsophisticated think that the bird
is young, but it is a simple matter to feel the bones
crunch under such circumstances, when one may be fairly
certain that the bird is no longer young.
Another test is that the skin should be firm and smooth.
The color, authorities say, should be yellow. This is not
a question of age or youth, but of the breed, and con-
sequently is not of special value. On the other hand,
hairs are a sign of age, and while it is said that pin-
feathers are a sign of youth, this is not true, because the
i73
174 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
presence of feathers and the color of them depend upon
the breed of the chicken and the time of year it is killed.
Heavy scales on the feet are also a sign of age ; but with
a turkey, when the spurs are soft and loose, it is a good
sign.
In domestic poultry the flesh of the breast and wings
will be white, and should be firm and not heavily fatted,
while the legs are of dark meat. In game, the meat
of the bird throughout is usually dark and the wings
will be of a tougher quality than the legs, which is exactly
the reverse in the domestic bird. This is because in the
one the wings are used in flying, while in the other the
legs are the means of locomotion, and in consequence
the fibers will be heavier and coarser. The breast of
game should, if it is good, be full and firm and rather fat.
On the whole, game will have a large percentage of fat
in its composition and be less easily digested than chicken
or turkey.
Chickens which are not a vear old are known as
»
broilers, and at the present time are usually incubated.
Chickens which are exactly a year old are known as
prime roasters, and those over a year old are qualified
by the term " fowl." The so-called spring chicken, which
appears in the market in January, weighs about one and
one-half pounds. Fowls are the best from March until
June. Turkeys are the best in the winter months.
Geese are usually at their best from May until Sep-
tember. A goose twelve weeks old is called a ' green
goose." Young geese are often called goslings. The
time of the quail and partridge is limited by the game
laws, but as a rule we can find them on the market in
fall, while we have the plover through the spring and
cold storage at other seasons. The grouse comes in the
Steamed Squash in Shell.
Recipe on Page
Boiled Asparagus.
Recipe on Page 3/7.
176 THE PURI': 1'OOD COOK BOOK
baking soda. Have ready a rich force-meat made of
bread-crumbs, bits of fat pork, chopped very fine, pepper,
and salt. I '.cat in an egg and two tablespoonfuls of
melted butter. Use neither onion nor herbs in the sea-
soning, for they destroy the " gamey flavor. Stuff and
truss as you would a domestic fowl and lay in the drip-
ping-pan. Dash a cupful of boiling water over it to sear
the skin and keep in the juices. Roast in a steady oven,
allowing twelve minutes to the pound. Haste frequently
for an hour with butter and water; then four times with
gravy from the dripping-pan, lastly three times with
melted butter. Dredge with tloiir at the last, and froth
with butter, to brown the whole body. Drain off the
gravy, keeping the turkey hot over boiling water; season
with pepper and salt, thicken with browned flour and
the giblets, which have been boiled tender and chopped
very fine. Garnish with small sausages and curled
parsley.
Mint Chicken Cream
Pick into small piece- sufficient fresh mint leaves to
fill half a cup. covering with boiling water, and allowing
it to stand for twenty minutes; then strain and add a
scant pint of chicken stock, stirring in half a tablespoonfnl
of white- wine vinegar, the juice of half an onion, pepper,
and salt to taste, and two and a half tablespoonfuls of
gelatin softened in four tablespoonfuls of cold water.
Simmer slowly only until the gelatin is dissolved and
remove from the fire, setting in a cold place, until slightly
thickened; add a cupful of cold diced chicken, two table-
spoonfuls of cooked peas, and a scant cupful of stiffly
whipped cream ; mold in a ring-mold, placing it directly
on the ice to chill and harden. \Yhen ready to serve, un-
JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 177
mold on a glass platter, filling the center with crisp heart
lettuce leaves and garnishing with tiny pink radishes.
Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing
Select a turkey, preferably a hen turkey, weighing not
over ten or twelve pounds. If the family be large, it is
better to have two ten-pound turkeys. See that the breast
is plump, the legs pliable, and do not be governed by the
fact that the skin is white and fair — sometimes they are
not so good as those which are darker in color. Have
the bird drawn, and if possible the tendons drawn from
the legs. Singe, cut neck close to body, remove pin-
feathers, and thoroughly scrub the bird inside and out,
being careful that it does not stay in the water. Wipe
well and stuff, then truss and put in a roasting-pan,
breast down. Sprinkle with flour and salt, and place in
a hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes the first hour
of roasting, using butter and hot water. After turning
the bird over on its back, cover the breast with butter,
and brown. If a crust is desired, cream together butter
and flour, using twice as much butter as flour. A ten-
pound turkey needs three hours to cook, and more time
will not hurt it. The heart, liver, and gizzard should
be cooked in water until the last is tender. The neck
may be cooked with them, and this stock is excellent
for making gravy, or if a bread stuffing is used, for
moistening the bread. Chop and add them to the gravy.
Chestnut Stuffing
Blanch one pound of Italian chestnuts, boil till very ten-
der, and put through a ricer. Add one cupful of bread-
178 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
crumbs, one-half cupful of shortening, one and one-half
tablespoonfuls of poultry seasoning, one-half cupful of
seeded raisins, with salt, pepper, celery salt, sugar, and
cayenne to taste. Mix thoroughly. This is excellent for
poultry and game.
Jellied Chicken Sandwiches
Chop the meat of a cold chicken with one stalk of
celery, or put all through a food-chopper. Season with a
little grated onion and minced parsley. Soak one table-
spoonful of granulated gelatine in one teaspoonful of
water until soft, then add six tablespoonfuls of sweet
cream and heat over hot water until the gelatine is dis-
solved. Add the chicken meat, lemon juice, salt, and
paprika to taste, beat all together thoroughly and pour
into a shallow, oblong pan. wet in cold water. Set on
ice to chill, then cut in slices to fit the bread cut for
sandwiches.
Spanish Fricassee of Chicken
Cut up a chicken or fowl, weighing about four pounds,
in pieces for serving, put in a kettle with five cups of
boiling water, and simmer until chicken is tender. Re-
move meat, cool, then roll each piece in seasoned flour
and fry a delicate brown in fat. Wash and cook in the
liquor one cupful of rice, (which has been fried in two
tablespoonfuls of butter), with one tablespoonful each,
of onion and red and green pepper. Add one teaspoon-
ful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. When
rice is tender turn on to a platter, and on it arrange the
pieces of chicken. Garnish with parsley.
JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 179
Chicken Rechauffe
In blazer of chafing dish put one-half tumbler of cur-
rant jelly, one cupful of cream, salt and cayenne to taste.
Bring all to the boiling point, and in it place slices of
cold cooked chicken. Serve when meat is thoroughly
heated. Any meat except beef and ham may be utilized
in this way.
Roast Goose
Singe, draw, wash, stuff, and truss a goose. Dredge
with flour and salt, and lay strips of fat pork over the
breast. Roast in a hot oven two hours, basting frequently
with butter and hot water.
Stuffing
Chop finely two onions, mix with one-fourth cupful
of finely chopped pork, and combine with two cupfuls of
hot mashed potato and one and one-half cupfuls of soft
stale bread crumbs. Add one-third cupful of butter, one
beaten egg, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, one
teaspoonful of sage, and one-eighth teaspoonful of
black pepper.
Russian Apple Stuffing for Roast Goose
Chop two cupfuls of tart apples, Greenings or Baldwins
preferred, with one cupful of seeded raisins. Stuff goose
and truss as usual. The flavor is delicious and quite
different.
i8o THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
Roman Chicken
Cook half a pound of vermicelli and drain thoroughly.
Spread upon a platter and cover it with a highly seasoned
tomato sauce. Shred the white and dark meat of a small
cooked chicken into fibers no larger than a match and
lay them upon the sauce. Cut four sticks of celery and
a Bermuda onion very fine, season with salt, paprika, a
dash of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon (if desired), and
cook brown in a little butter. Spread over the chicken
and put into the oven to get very hot. Moisten with a
little chicken stock if needed and serve very hot.
Chicken Curried
Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one slice of
onion, one-fourth of an apple, sliced, one tablespoonful
of grated cocoanut or minced almonds, a little salt and
paprika, and one teasponnful of curry powder dissolved
in a little water, \\lien required cook < me tablespoonful
of butter with one teaspoonful of llour, add one-half cup-
ful of chicken stock nr gravy, and one cupful of diced
chicken mixed with one-half cupful of cream. Add the
curry mixture and serve in ramekins.
Chicken Cutlets
( )ne cupful of chopped cooked chicken, seasoned with
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of
pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and one teaspoonful
of lemon juice. Make a sauce, using two tablespoonfuls
of butter, one tablespoonful of Hour, one-half cupful of
cream, and one egg; add this to chicken, and cook all
JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 181
together three minutes. Cool, shape in the form of cut-
lets, roll in fine bread-crumbs, dip in egg, roll in crumbs,
and fry in deep fat. Serve with a white mushroom sauce.
White Mushroom Sauce
Drain half a can of mushrooms, and cut in slices.
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoon-
fuls of flour, one cupful of chicken-stock, and cook
until thick and smooth. Season with one-half tea-
spoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and
a slight grating of nutmeg. Add one-half cupful of
cream, and the mushrooms. Serve as soon as heated.
Fried Chicken
Cut up a young chicken in pieces for serving. Roll
each piece in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Into
an iron frying-pan put sufficient fat, half lard and half
butter, to make an inch in depth ; lay in the chicken, and
cook until brown, turning frequently. Cover closely, re-
move to a cooler part of the range, and let cook for
twenty-five minutes. Drain on paper and serve very hot.
1 82 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY
MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY 183
1 84 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY
MEAT
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
EXT to cereals, meat in the broad sense of
that term, including beef, mutton, and pork,
is the most important of our food products.
It is important not only from a nutritional
point of view, but also because of its eco-
nomical aspects. The number of meat ani-
mals in this country is actually decreasing for
some kinds, while none is keeping pace with the in-
crease of population. The natural result of this, aside
from manipulation on the markets, is an increasing de-
mand and a decreasing supply. This has worked out at
the present time into a condition in which the price of
meats is higher to the consumer than ever before. This,
however, does not affect in any way the value of meat
as a food. With all due deference to our vegetarian
friends, whose opinions I respect, I am fully convinced
that man is an omnivorous animal. He makes a mis-
take when he confines his diet to any one particular form
of food. Man can thrive quite well, however, on a
vegetable diet. Perhaps this should be modified by say-
ing on what is generally called " a vegetable diet ' be-
cause the vegetarian as a rule eats eggs, drinks milk, and
uses butter, all of which are animal products. The lean
or muscular part of meat is essentially a tissue builder,
while the fat is a heat and energy former. Some kinds
of meat, as, for instance, beef, can be eaten every day
185
1 86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
without palling on the appetite. In this respect beef
occupies the same position as wheat and some other
vegetables. One caution, however, should be presented
in regard to meat-eating, and that is that it should not
be overdone. There are two reasons for this, one, the
economic aspect of the problem, and second, the nutri-
tional relations of meat to healthy growth. I should say
that for grown people meat once a day is quite sufficient,
while for young children who still consume quantities
of milk, meat is not at all an essential part of the diet,
"and in my opinion they are better off without it. To-
day people, especially those who live at hotels and res-
taurants, eat too much meat for their own good, and I
believe that if meat consumption could be placed on a
scientific basis the economic aspects of the problem might
well be solved and the demand might not exceed the
supply.
JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS
Tests for Fresh Wholesome Meat
RESH, sound, sweet meat is, of course, the
only kind to be considered. It is, as a rule,
almost odorless, but has a slight fleshy smell
that is pleasant to a normal person. The
olfactory nerves usually may be depended
upon to detect a tainted condition contracted
by contact with fish, vegetables, or unclean
vessels, cutting-block, or scales ; decomposition due to
exposure or undue delay in selling the meat ; a strong
natural odor such as is sometimes found in the flesh of
old animals, especially males ; or a rancid state as in
stale cured bacon and ham.
There are those who relish meat, especially beef, that
has " ripened " by remaining several weeks in cold storage
at about 38 degrees Fahrenheit, the degree of ripeness
varying from fresh to near-decay according to the time
and conditions of storage and the quality of cut or
carcass, and the objects being to improve both the flavor
and tenderness of the meat. Only fat, mature beef, and
mutton usually are subjected to this treatment, and, as a
rule, only for such customers as city hotels, clubs, and
the commissaries of other large establishments. The
dark and sometimes quite moldy surface, high (not to say
strong) odor, and the unattractive general appearance of
such meats makes it unsuitable for regular retail trade
187
1 88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
because many patrons would consider it unsound ; but
when properly handled it is quite as wholesome as other
foods which are artificially ripened, such as cheese or
fruit. For ordinary use, two days to a week in the chill-
room is sufficient. .Meat used less than thirty-six to
forty-eight hours after slaughter is likely to be tough,
due to a set condition of the muscles called ' rigor
mortis."
Considerable quantities of frozen meat, also, are sold
in retail market from late winter to summer, having been
stored at about 1 5 degrees Fahrenheit since the preceding
fall. If sold immediately after careful thawing, it is diffi-
cult to distinguish frozen meats from fresh, but as handled
in some retail markets they sometimes become soft, flabby,
and slimy. When from animals too young to be suffi-
ciently developed for food, veal and spring lamb cuts
have gluey or gelatinous flesh and abnormally soft,
cartilage-like bone. Such meats should be carefully
avoided. Although not necessarily dangerous it is at
best repulsive and unwholesome.
Judging the Color
Perhaps the first characteristic that catches the eye
is the color of the steak or chop under consideration.
Good beef, when first cut. is a rich, bluish red, which
turns bright cherry or pale red when exposed a few
minutes. The blue or purplish shade frequently remains
until the steak is unwrapped in the kitchen, and is not, as
sometimes suspected, an indication of poor or old meat.
Veal varies from almost white to light red, but should be
a dull pink to be at its best. Lamb cuts range from light
Flank Steak. A Juicy Beef steak- -Tender and
Appetizing if Carefully Cooked.
Inferior Ham.
Choice Hani.
Standing Rib Roast.
This Cut may be Roasted as it is, or made into a Short Rib
Roast by Cutting Off the End at the Left; or the Bone
Removed and the Meat Rolled I* p.
Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin.
Represents Steaks used in Many Districts where Small
Markets are Patronized.
JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 189
pink to grayish red, according to the age and quality
of the lamb; and mutton is a dull brick red. Pork from
young pigs is nearly white and that from older animals is
dull pink or rose color. The fat of all meat should be as
nearly white as possible, free from clots and spots, and
of a firm, clear consistency.
Dark colored flesh, in general, is characteristic of older
animals ; is usually more pronounced in males than in
females ; and is sometimes due to incomplete bleeding.
Generally, therefore, it is not of the best grade. But be
not deceived by color, for it sometimes ' happens," in
violation of pure food regulations, that meat wears an
artificial complexion, purchased at the drug store. Occa-
sionally, too, a cut that is abnormally dark in color proves
to be all one can desire as to its " eating qualities." The
latter statement applies especially to the outer fat which,
in beef cuts, is sometimes quite yellow, it applies also to
dried and smoked meats, some of which can be appre-
ciated only by tasting.
Now a few words which will serve to guide the reader
to recognize the general appearance of good beef. Be-
sides soundness and proper color, a tempting appearance
in meat requires good shape — full, thick, and plump ac-
cording to the kind of cut — even, smoothly cut surfaces,
firm condition and absence of all indications of coarseness
in the flesh and bone. Words can scarcely describe that
subtle something called general quality ; it must be im-
pressed by actual observation of the details we are at-
tempting to define ; by careful attention, for example, to
the size and shape of the ' eye ' of a rib-roast ; the
amount, character, and color of bone, as well as meat
in a pork chop, the smoothness, thinness, and quality or
rind on a strip of breakfast bacon.
As an exception to the rule, the unfavorable influence
190 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
of the ripening process upon external appearance has
already been mentioned. Certain kinds of cured meat,
as for example Virginia hams, which hang for a year
or two before being used, are most shrunken and un-
sightly; but the price commanded by such meats (fifty
cents a pound for Smithfield hams ) testifies to their inner
goodness.
Signs of Tenderness
Toughness is the shortcoming that causes more com-
plaints than any other characteristic of our daily meat;
so much so, indeed, that more essential pcint> are usually
sacrificed to overcome it. For instance, veal is in con-
stant demand even at high prices, merely because it is
naturally tender ; whereas mature beef is much more
nutritious, has a decidedly richer flavor, loses less weight
in cooking and. furthermore, if properly cooked, may be
made practically as tender.
Although no infallible rule can be stated that will cer-
tainly indicate whether a given cut will turn out tender
when cooked, nevertheless careful observation will assist
greatly in making a good guess. Look for fine, smooth
grain or fiber, little connective tissue, a velvety, pliable
feeling, and such consistency that the flesh may be pene-
trated with the finger or easily cut with a knife, yet firm
in condition rather than soft and flabby. With some ex-
ceptions, the fatness of the meat and the degree of
' marbling," or distribution of fat throughout the lean,
arc indications of tenderness; and a light color shows
usually that the cut is from a young animal and should
be tender.
Whether meat is cut with the grain, or across it, makes
much difference in its apparent fineness or coarseness of
JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 191
fiber, and this must be considered in judging of tender-
ness. Even the tenderloin of beef or of pork looks
stringy when cut lengthwise, and the flank steak still more
so. Lean meat is made up of elongated cells of muscular
tissue, bound into small bundles by a thin white mem-
brane called connective tissue. The more of this con-
nective tissue, the tougher the meat. Fortunately, how-
ever, it is susceptible to softening by heat, which changes
it to gelatin ; so that, within certain limits, it is under
the control of the cook. By adequate treatment, such as
fireless cooking, the natural toughness of cuts from these
parts that have been exercised most, like the legs and
neck, or cuts from old and poorly fattened animals, may
be largely reduced or eliminated ; and thus meat may be
selected with due regard not only to tenderness but also
to flavor, food value, and economy. ' Marbling ' in
meat, particularly in beef, also softens the connective
tissues by filling their cells with globules of fat.
Another indication of the degree of tenderness in meat
is the texture and color of bone. Comparatively soft,
spongy, and reddish colored bones indicate that the cut
is from a young animal, while hard, dense, white bones
are characteristic of old ones. The " lamb joint," or
' break joint/1 found on the legs or shanks of lamb is
a good illustration of this point. In dressing lambs, the
foot is broken off at a suture, or false joint, just above
the ankle, while in sheep this suture is knit or ossified,
and the foot must be removed at the round joint.
Next to tenderness, the greatest satisfaction in eating
meat, regardless of the kind, depends upon the juiciness
and flavor. Dry, stringy meat is neither palatable, nutri-
tious, nor economical; while a juicy cut meets all three
requirements. It is the cell substance that makes meats
juicy; the cell walls and connective tissue that make it
192 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
stringy. There is a decided difference, too, between meat
of a juicy nature and that which is merely watery. The
former, as developed in prime beef or mutton, more
nearly retains its substance, and shape in cooking, while
the latter, as in veal, shrinks largely, due to the loss of
water, leaving it comparatively dry and tasteless.
Flavor is closely associated with the juiciness of meat.
As just indicated, it develops with the growth of the
animal, and is therefore most pronounced in mature fat
carcasses. Veal and lamb cuts are deficient in flavoring
material as compared with beef and mutton. Generally,
too, " the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat," and the
cheaper cuts from joints that are exercised most are
equal, or superior, in point of flavor, to those from the
more tender parts along the back and loin.
Well marbled meat has a distinctive flavor, due to the
rich taste which the intermingled fat gives it when cooked.
Such meat is also more susceptible to ripening in the
butcher's cooling-room than very lean or watery cut-.
In cured meats, particularly sugar-cured ham and
breakfast-bacon, flavor cuts a large figure, and much de-
pends upon the methods and materials used in curing and
smoking. Being generally sold under brand names, the
purchaser has a fairly good guide in the selection of a
desired flavor in such meats. It is true that few com-
mercially cured meats arc equal, and none superior, in
palatability to the genuine farm-cured article at its best ;
but the latter in these days is almost extinct.
We Americans, as compared with the English, pay little
attention to the natural flavor of meats, and our penchant
for putting artificial relishes on our dishes has almost
destroyed our sense of discrimination. To some, how-
ever, who still esteem flavor, a choice shoulder-roast of
lamb or of pork is equal or superior to the loin, and only
JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 193
half as expensive; flank steak at eighteen cents is pref-
erable to tenderloin at fifty ; a choice ' California '
round roast is as palatable as a high-priced prime rib of
beef; and breast of veal or of lamb at ten cents a pound
is as good as chops or cutlets at twenty-five. Others,
who are possessed both of rich tastes and of ample means,
cheerfully pay a premium for beef cuts that have been
highly ' ripened," or for hams that have been specially
selected, cured, smoked, and aged.
Choose Meat That Is Fat
Although most meat is used primarily for the sake
of the protein, or lean tissue that it provides, the pur-
chaser makes a serious mistake who objects to the so-
called "waste fat' that choice meat must have, or who
chooses unfinished lean cuts in order to avoid it. In
the first place, the best quality of lean meat requires a
sufficient outer layer of fat to give it good keeping
qualities and a sightly appearance, and at least a moderate
' marbling ' of the cut to make it rich and tender. A
roast, steak, or chop of good size should carry, usually,
one-fourth to one-half inch of outside fat, and other cuts
may have more or less, according to their class and size.
Some of those who insist on the leanest bacon would find
the thicker, fatter grades equally palatable and cheaper.
In the second place, fat meat is two and one-fourth
times as nutritious from an energy standpoint as lean,
and although a limited amount of it is sufficient for direct
use, the remainder need not be wasted, but may be utilized
in such forms as gravies and drippings, for which it is as
good, or better, than butter. Finally proper cooking, par-
ticularly broiling and roasting, is impossible with ex-
Kj4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
tremely lean meat, and the percentage of shrinkage in
cooking is high. If, from choice or for economy's sake,
lean steak is ordered, it is well to get with it a piece of
suet so that it may be made savory and served with
its own gravy. The trouble is that our fancied economy
is false ; we would better save by selecting a cheaper class
of cut, but looking well to its quality.
Cuts of Meat Are Not Difficult to Learn
Notwithstanding a prevalent impression that the dif-
ferent cuts are difficult to distinguish, the truth is that
they can be learned readily by anyone; for the structure
of the bones and muscles is a guide that seldom leaves
room for doubt as to the identity <>f any cut in the car-
cass. P>y referring to the diagrams and photographs that
accompany these articles, and then closely observing actual
cuts that the reader may venture to order from the lists
given here, it will be found quite easy, after a little ex-
perience, to recognize at a glance any of the cuts that
are commonly used.
Cuts of the quick cooking kind, given in the following
list, may be either broiled or sauted. Steaks and chops,
for best results, should be broiled (either grilled or pan-
broiled) ; and for that purpose >ieaks should be cut
three-fourths to one inch thick — thicker if desired — and
chops one-half to three-fourths of an inch. Thin-cut
chuck and round steaks, ' drop tenderloins," and pork
or mutton chops may be sauted if hard, overdone meat is
preferred, as it is by some people with perverted tastes.
Ham, bacon, salt pork, and breaded cutlets also are cooked
by this method. None of the meats in this list ever should
be actually fried, that is covered completely with hot fat.
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JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 195
Quick Cooking Cuts
Weight Retail Price
Pounds Cents per Ib.
Porterhouse steak il/2 to 3 20 to 35
Club steak I to 2 18 to 30
Sirloin steak 2 to 5 18 to 30
Round steak 2 to 5 14 to 22
Top round steak il/2 to 3 18 to 26
Chuck steak 2 to 4 12 to 18
Flank steak i to 2 15 to 20
Veal steak i to 2 18 to 25
Pork steak i to il/2 15 to 20
Mutton chops .' . . l/2 to ^ 18 to 25
Lamb chops 1-5 to 1-3 20 to 30
Veal chops 54 to Y^ 18 to 25
Veal cutlets 24 to i ^ 20 to 30
Pork chops 54 to l/2 18 to 22
Salt pork i to 3 12 to 16
Fancy breakfast bacon 1-16 to T/& 25 to 35
Medium to fat bacon Ms to 54 16 to 25
Below are listed those cuts which are of proper size and
quality for roasting and baking and require moderately
quick cooking. Reasonably fat and tender meat is re-
quired for satisfactory results. Besides the cuts named,
very thick steaks may be partially broiled and afterwards
roasted or baked in the oven ; and breasts of lamb and of
veal are sometimes roasted, though generally stewed.
Moderately Quick Cooking Meats
Weight Retail Price
Pounds Cents per Ib.
Prime ribs of beef (first cut) 4 to 12 18 to 25
Prime ribs of beef (last cut) 4 to 12 16 to 20
Shoulder block roast 4 to 8 12 to 18
Chuck rib roast 4 to 10 12 to 18
Beef rump 4 to 12 12 to 16
Beef tenderloin (fillet) 2 to 6 30 to 50
196 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Weight Retail Price
Pounds Cents per Ib.
Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20
Loin of mutton 3 to 6 15 to 20
Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 12 to 15
Leg of lamb 3/2 to 6 18 to 28
Loin of lamb 2 to 4 20 to 30
Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20
Crown lamb roast 3//2 to 6 20 to 35
I \ ind quarter ( spring lamb ) 5 to 8 20 to 25
Fore quarter (spring lamb ) 5 to 8 15 to 18
Pork loin 2 to 8 16 to 20
Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20
Ham (smoked) 3 to i j 18 to 25
Pork tenderloin l/2 to ft 28 to 35
Pork shoulder 2 to 5 12 to 15
Spare-ribs l/2 to I 10 to 15
Veal loin 3 to 6 18 to 22
Veal leg (fillet) 3 to u 16 to 20
Veal shoulder 3 to 8 14 to 18
The cuts that are best for long, slow methods of cook-
ing may be subdivided, for convenience' sake, into three
classes : boiling meats, stewing meats, and soup meats.
The first, as a rule, are from the leaner parts that are
more or less toughened by exercise. Some of the cuts
listed may be chosen either for this purpose or for roast-
ing, according to the quality of meat. Stewing is suitable
for fat and fairly tender meats, such as breasts and
flanks of lamb; but some lean cuts also are so used.
Soups, broths, and beef tea are made from the bony and
muscular parts which contain an abundance of flavoring
substances.
Slow Cooking Meats
Weight Retail Price
Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per Ib.
Beef horseshoe piece (end round).. 4 to 8 10 to 16
Beef shoulder clod 3 to 6 10 to 16
JUST HOW TO fiUY MEATS 197
Weight Retail Price
Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per Ib.
Rib end of beef 2 to 6 8 to 14
Cross-ribs of beef 2 to 5 8 to 12
Beef brisket 3 to 8 8 to 10
Corned beef, rump, flank, plate or
brisket 2 to 8 10 to 16
Beef tongue (fresh) 3 to 5 15 to 18
Beef tongue (smoked) 2 to 3 25 to 30
Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20
Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 10 to 15
Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20
Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20
Ham ( smoked) 3 to 12 18 to 25
Pork shoulder (fresh) 3 to 8 14 to 16
Pork shoulder (smoked) 3 to 8 10 to 12
Pork hocks \y2 to 2^ 8 to 10
Back-bones and neck-bones 2 to 8 8 to 10
Stewing Meats
Beef plate 3 to 6 8 to 10
Beef flank 2 to 6 6 to 10
Drop tenderloin I to 2 10 to
Beef skirts i to 2 8 to 10
Beef neck i to 3 8 to 12
Beef shin 2 to 5 6 to 12
Breast of mutton 2 to 4 6 to 8
Breast of lamb i to 2l/2 8 to
Veal breast 2 to 5 12 to 15
Veal neck i to 2 8 to 10
Soup and Broth Meats
Shin soup bones i to 4 4 to 6
Hind shank soup bones i to 5 4 to 8
Knuckle soup bones 3 to 7 4 to 6
Oxtail i to 2 8 to 10
Beef neck i to 3 6 to 10
Beef shoulder clod i to 2 10 to 14
Beef round i to 2 14 to 22
i
Mutton shouldei i to 2 10 to 15
Mutton neck i to 2 8 to 10
Mutton shanks i to VA 8 to 10
.
198 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Certain cuts may be made most palatable. Such meats
are pot roast, braised and browned beef, beef a la mode,
" gravy stews," and baked meats which are previously
boiled. The preparation of meat in most of these ways
was more familiar to our grandmothers, in the days of
pots and kettles, than to us, who live in the era of gas
stoves. But with the modern fireless cooker, even those
who have abandoned the coal range may enjoy the meat
dishes of old, and, what is better, they may do so without
giving the pot any occasion for uncomplimentary remarks
to the kettle.
Pot roasting is especially adapted to shoulder pot roasts
of beef, the shoulder block roast or ' Huston cut," and
the end round cut or ' horseshoe piece." Kunips, bris-
kets, shoulder clods, plates, and flanks of beef and shoul-
der of mutton are other cuts that are used in this way.
Braised beef usually is made from round steak cut two
or three inches thick (known as 'California roast' or
'Swiss steak"), or from rumps, llank-. or rib ends.
Beef tenderloins, mutton chops, ox hearts, and ox joints
(tails) also are braised.
Boiling followed by baking or oven-roasting is a
method of cooking to which smoked hams and shoulders
or ' picnics ' are especially adapted. Broiled breakfast
bacon, when extremely salt, is improved for some palates
by parboiling first for a minute or two. Very thick
steaks may be made well done without burning the sur-
face if they are broiled partially and then cooked to the
desired point in a hot oven.
' Made-over dishes ' in endless variety may be made
from many of the meats listed, and especially from the
cheaper cuts. In this way five to ten pounds of meat
may be cooked and afterwards served in five to ten differ-
ent ways, with little loss either of food value or flavor.
Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon.
1. E.vtra Lean.
2. Medium.
3. Fat.
Bacon i sells 100 per cent. Higher than 3, but the Quality
and Food Value are Similar.
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JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 199
As hints on this point we may merely mention meat
balls or cakes, from chopped steak or veal ; minced meat
from any of the leaner cheap cuts ; pot-pie, especially
from mutton shoulder; beef round and flank; veal loaf,
from shoulder or neck of veal; hash of the various
kinds; and chili con carne, goulash, etc., from beef round
or chuck.
Other forms in which to utilize fresh meats are : home-
made sausage, from lean pork two parts, lean beef one
part and pork one part ; Hamburg steak, from beef round
or chuck or from the flank end of porterhouse steaks;
head cheese, from pigs' heads and pork trimmings ; and
pressed meat loaf (spiced), from beef plates, flanks, or
briskets.
Ready-Cooked Meats and Market By-Products
Prepared meats which may be obtained at the grocery
or delicatessen shop are not included in the foregoing
lists. These chiefly consist of cooked ham and pork
loins, dried or chipped beef, meat loaf, and corned beef,
all of which sell under the general name of ' lunch
meats." Other ready-to-serve meats are sausages of
numberless kinds, canned and potted meats, and pickled
tongues, hearts, and pigs' feet. They are comparatively
expensive but very useful to serve on short notice or
where cooking is out of the question.
By-products of the meat market should not be over-
looked. Some of them are relished by nearly everyone,
but the demand largely is limited to restaurants, hotels,
and similar trade. They consist of both delicacies and
" rough meats," the designation in some cases depending
upon individual tastes and notions. Sweet-breads, brains,
200 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
hearts, livers, kidneys, plucks, and tripe are the prin-
cipal products of this kind. \\\ means of skilful cook-
ing and seasoning surprisingly palatable and wholesome
dishes may he made from many of them.
Armed with these specifications, one need never timidly
ask for ' boiling meat," for example, but may order
by name a cut that is suited to the desired purpose,
and ten to one the butcher will select and put it up with
special care. Occasional reference to lists like these will
assist the novice, at least, to introduce variety, obtain
quality, and at the same time observe economy in select-
ing meat for the family.
JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS
HEN the meat comes from the market, after
weighing, wipe it thoroughly with a clean
cheesecloth wrung out of hot water. Do
not wash it. Then compute the time neces-
sary for conking. Uecf, if desired rare,
should be cooked ten minutes for each pound
counted after the first fifteen, twenty, or
thirty minutes, depending upon the size of the meat.
Take a roast, weighing eight pounds, desired rare: count
eighty plus twenty minutes, or one hour and forty min-
utes. If dinner is to be at six-thirty, the oven must he
ready, and the meat go in promptly at ten minutes of
five. If desired better done, it needs to be placed in the
oven at four-thirty, as the eight pounds multiplied by
twelve minutes equals ninety-six, plus twenty equals one
hundred and sixteen, which is two hours within four
minutes.
JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS 201
The meat should not be seasoned nor dredged with
flour, but placed in a hot oven, whether the piece be
large or small. There are directions which say " the
smaller the meat the hotter the oven," and others that
state exactly the opposite. Let us make this seeming
discrepancy quite plain to the beginner. It all depends on
the size, but especially the shape of the roast.
When a large roast is put in the oven, it takes with
it a sufficient proportion of cold to perceptibly lower
the heat of the oven, and this has to be regained before
the surfaces of the meat can be seared over and prevent
escape of the juices. On the other hand, because meat
is a poor conductor of heat, the surface of a large piece
of meat becomes burned or charred before the heat
reaches the interior if the oven be too hot at first. The
very hot oven sears or coagulates the surfaces of a small
roast quickly, and therefore aids in the retention of the
juices in which the meat should cook.
Hence, the sensible directions are that the oven should
be relatively hotter for the smaller roast than for the
large one, and then the heat be more quickly lowered
to complete the cooking. The first heat of the oven
should be more moderate relatively for the larger piece,
but be more evenly maintained.
Meat in general should not be seas@ned before cook-
ing. Salt has what is called in physics an affinity for
water, and when placed on the surface of the meat does
not penetrate, but draws the juices of the meat toward
the surface, thus rendering the meat tougher and more
tasteless. The time to season is when the cooking is
finished.
We are fully aware of the skepticism raised in the
old-fashioned cook's mind by such a statement, but
science has proved it correct. And we can only request
202
THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
the skeptics to do the fair thing and try it for them-
selves. Let them take two roasts, a week or so apart,
as nearly alike as possible, weighing each before and
after cooking, salting one and not the other, and not tell-
ing the family what has been done. Then record and
compare the results in the two. This is the real way to
learn " just how."
JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK
ROILING is but a method of roasting applied
to thin pieces of meat. That is. in broiling or
grilling, the steak or chop is exposed to the
direct rays of the fire, whether it be coal, gas.
or electricity.
A perfect steak should be cut one and one-
half inches thick and cooked <|uickly over a
hot fire, so that both sides are browned, the interior being
of an even red color. The steak should be puffed and
elastic from the confined steam of the juices, and every
particle of juice and tlavor should be preserved, not lost
in the cooking.
To do this, first remove the superfluous fat from the
meat ; heat the broiler and grease it well with a piece of
this fat. Lay the steak on the broiler with the skin or
outside edge toward the handle. This is done because
as the broiler is turned it is tipped down, therefore the
melting fat runs on to the meat instead of into the fire,
if the steak is placed right. The coals should be red and
hot, not black nor burned white. Tut the broiler close
to the coals and count ten slowly. Turn and count again.
In this time, if the fire is right and the steak can be
JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK 203
sufficiently near, the surface will be seared over so the
juices will be retained.
Repeat this, however, then hold' the broiler further
away from the coals or fire, that the steak may cook
more slowly. If the meat is broiled too near the fire all
the time of cooking, the outside will be overdone, the
inside underdone. If it be held too far away from the fire
all the time it will lose its juices and be flat, and lacking
in flavor.
When broiling steak one cannot, or should not, try to
attend to other things. It requires constant attention;
for the steak should be turned every ten seconds, for a
period of eight to ten minutes, according to the thick-
ness of the steak.
When the fat runs into the fire no special harm is
done, unless the steak is permitted to absorb the smoke,
when it occasionally gets a smoky taste. The flame will
not hurt it, the smoke may. When properly done, little
or no fat or juices will run into the fire. When cooked
it will be just the right brown, and this look one learns
only by experience. Moreover it will be puffed up be-
tween the wires of the broiler and will offer a slight re-
sistance to the touch. If in doubt remove the broiler to
a dish on a table and make a clean cut on one side with
a sharp knife. Do not before, after, or during cooking,
pierce the steak with a fork, but learn to judge by time
and appearance as to the condition of the meat.
If the steak is preferred well done the process is more
difficult, but after the first quick searing over, which
must be done as rapidly as possible, remove the steak
farther from the heat and cook for a long period. It is
even more necessary to turn it frequently when desired
well done than when cooked rare, if one wishes a per-
fectly broiled steak. Cook for twelve or thirteen minutes
204 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
if wanted well done when the steak is an inch and a
half thick. A thin steak requires careful handling, but
can be cooked relatively more quickly than a thicker one,
when desired well done. A steak two inches thick will
take from fifteen to eighteen minutes to broil rare, and
needs constant attention.
While broiling over a coal fire the flue dampers should
be open, to carry flame and odors up the chimney.
Do not let the steak stand before serving if it can be
avoided. Dredge with salt and pepper after, not before,
cooking, and when ready to serve spread with butter and
garnish with parsley.
Pan-broiling means to broil in a hot pan in place of
over the coals. It should not be confused with frying,
sauteing, or any such method. The hot pan should be
rubbed with a piece of fat just as the broiler is greased
to keep the steak from sticking, and the steak broiled in
it precisely as described fur broiling over the coals. The
pan should be very hot at first, the steak seared on both
sides, then allowed to cook more slowly, but turned every
ten counts as carefully as if over the coal-. In lifting to
turn it put the fork in the extreme end of the steak, if a
fork must be used. Any fat that runs out of the steak in
cooking should be poured off in order to prevent tlie
fried look or taste that will result if the meat is sauted
in its own fat.
Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades. Sirloin
Steaks arc Cut from the Surface Shown. Note the
Differences in Shape, Thickness, Outside Fat, Mar-
bling, Grain, and Quality of Meat.
Beef Loin, Third Grade.
Beef Loin, Second Grade.
Beef Loin, First Grade.
•
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HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 205
JUST HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF
OT ROAST is one of the delicious meat dishes
that can be made of the cheaper (not the
cheapest) cuts of beef.
Perhaps it is not fair to call pot roast a
cheap dish, because the prices vary so widely
in different localities, and the cuts vary so
much. In the vicinity of Providence, R. I.,
for example, our correspondents report prices of 12 to
18 cents a pound; in Philadelphia, 14 to 20 cents, in
New York City, 18 to 22 cents. In Boston and vicinity
20 to 25 cents.
In Providence they sell for pot roast the rump ( 14 10
16 cents), shoulder (12 to 14 cents), and bottom round
(16 to 18 cents), in Philadelphia and vicinity, the chuck
roast next to ribs (14 cents), shoulder cut (16 to 18
cents), and the ribs (18 to 20 cents). In New York
City and the West, prices are higher, and their range is
greater. The cuts are bottom round, top sirloin (which
is expensive, as a rule), top round and brisket, 16 to 22
cents.
The " eye " of the beef is considered the epicurean cut
for pot roast. This is a triangular piece of meat taken
from the hind-quarter between the top and bottom round
after the bone has been removed. In the West, pot roast
is often made by cutting vertically through the bottom
and top round (inside round) as is done in the East.
This top round or part on the inside of the hind-quarter
is exceptionally good for pot roast.
In different localities the names of beef cuts are en-
tirely different. In some places, for example, the flank
is cut so as to include more of the loin, in which case
206 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
the upper portion is often called the flank steak. Some-
times the rump steak, the inside round, is called the rump
plate, or the rattle. Often the cross-ribs and brisket are
included together under the name of cross-ribs ; the fore-
part of the cross-ribs is sometimes called the shoulder
clod, and the leg underneath the second round is called
the hind shoulder. Often, too, the socket and rump to-
gether are called simply the rump. Consequently one
must know from what part of the beef the meat should
be cut and how it looks. This knowledge must be
acquired in actual marketing.
The requirements for a successful pot roast are fresh
meat, slow cooking — about one hour per pound unless the
top sirloin or tenderer parts are employed — and adequate
seasoning. Buy from four to six pounds of beef for any
ordinary meal to be -crved for from three to live people.
Remove the meat at once from its wrappings to avoid the
taste of paper. Before cooking moisten a piece of cheese-
cloth and rub the beef all over carefully. Never -oak in
water as this wastes good protein material. Remove
any discolored fat.
Pot Roast
Brown two onions, which have been thinly sliced, in
two tablcspoonfuls of butter, in a pot with a cover; then
add the meat and let it steam in the covered pot with
just enough water to keep the meat from burning. Let
it cook for three hours or more if necessary. Place on
a dish and add to it a sauce made of one can of tomatoes,
one tablespoonful of Hour, and two chopped boiled car-
rots. Season with a dash of paprika and salt to taste.
HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 207
Braised Beef with Oysters
Two pounds of round steak, one cupful of oysters, one
cupful 'of water or stock, one dash of mace, one clove,
some allspice, one rounding teaspoonful of butter, two
tablespoonfuls of flour, one-third teaspoonful of white
pepper, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, a pinch
of summer savory, and one-half onion, grated. The
beef must be in one solid piece. Mix the salt, pepper,
and summer savory with the onion ; rub the beef well
with it on both sides ; lay in the kettle with the water,
spices, and half of the butter, rubbed with half of the
flour. Cover closely and simmer gently until the beef is
tender, which will take from two to three hours, or if
the beef is tough, possibly a little more. When tender,
heat the frying pan very hot, melt in it a part of the
remaining butter; lay the beef in the butter, turn once,
frying until the outside is browned. Be careful not to
harden it. After placing the beef on a hot platter, fry
the oysters in the same pan. Lay the fried oysters on
the beef and keep all warm. Strain the gravy, left from
stewing the beef, into the frying pan (there should be
about one pint ; add oyster liquor and water or soup to
make up the quantity, if it is scant), mix the rest of the
flour until smooth with a few drops of cold water; stir
it into the boiling gravy and boil for five minutes ; longer
if not quite thick enough. Pour around the beef and
serve hot.
Left-over Pot Roast
Use what is left over of a pot roast, running it through
the meat chopper. Pare and quarter one large onion,
pour boiling water over it and let it stand for about ten
minutes. Then run it through the chopper, season with
208 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
pepper, and add to it a poultry dressing made of one
egg, four rolled crackers, sage, salt, and pepper as de-
sired. Put all of this into a bowl and work it into a loaf.
Place it in an earthen dish and put into a moderate oven
for an hour. Just before serving, remove the cover and
let it brown. Then take enough boiled macaroni, drain
off the water, and pour over it the brown gravy that
has been left from the roast and set it on the back of the
stove to simmer. Heat a can of tomato soup and serve
with macaroni around the loaf.
Epicurean Pot Roast
Buy the " eye of the beef' which weighs about three
pounds. Have the butcher lard it with pork fat. P>e-
fore cooking remove the larding and place it in a 1><>w1
with chopped canned pimientoes and some of the pimiento
juice, a few bread crumbs or cracker crumbs to thicken,
and a few sprigs of chopped parsley. \\Ork all this to-
gether and press back into the vacant larding home of the
beef. Place the beef in a covered iron pot on the stove,
accompanied by a piece of suet, and sear on the outside,
but do not toughen or harden it. Then let it cook with
just enough soup stock or water to keep it from burning,
over the slowest fire possible for at least three hours.
Turn the beef every fifteen minutes. Forty minutes be-
fore the meat is cooked, scrape five or six potatoes and
put into the pot with the meat to brown. Serve hot or
cold.
JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 209
JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS
NCE upon a time, when I went visiting in a
small family, who lived in a small apartment
on a small income, I learned the possibilities
of casserole cooking, and came home so im-
pressed by its many-sidedness that I adapted
all sorts of dishes to fit the earthen utensils.
First, I invested in an entire set of casse-
roles from one large, red clay, lidded pot with an enameled
interior to several sets of cunning, handled ramekins
which afford plenty of crisped brown crust on the small-
est dish. I have a half-dozen of the smallest size, which
are just big enough to bake an egg, a tomato, or a por-
tion of creamed potato for one person. There is an-
other set of larger ramekins, which I use for individual
chicken pies, or small meat dishes. Last of all comes
an oval casserole in which you can cook a chicken, a
steak, a few slices of veal, or a neck of lamb. The oval
dish fits a chicken better than the round one. By the
way, when speaking of chicken I mean a tough, old fowl
which can be made really tender in the casserole.
While on the utensil subject, let me speak of the oven.
We use no fuel but gas and I found it rather expensive
to <l blaze up ' the oven every time I wanted to bake a
few eggs, so I purchased what the clerk called a small
1 spinster oven." In two months it saved its price on
the gas bill. See to it, however, that it will hold your
largest casserole ; mine did not and had to be exchanged.
It is set on top of a burner and, when slow heat is re-
quired, I use nothing under it but the tiny gas simmerer.
It can be pushed to the back of the stove out of the way
210 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
and when not in use I keep it on a shelf beside the kitchen
utensils.
Now for certain " casseroled " dinner dishes! You do
not require tender meat for casserole cooking, therefore
it is well to study cheap cuts of meat. French and
Italian cooks know better than any other nation the value
of these cheap cuts. At any table d'hote place you find
very inexpensive meats, which have been converted to
goodness by this method. Certain pieces of beef, such as
cuts from the round, shoulder clod, llank, brisket, chuck,
or even rump, if the latter is cut according to Xew
York method, are well adapted for casserole cooking. In
lamb, choose a neck or breast, with no fat, adding to its
goodness by seasoning and any vegetables which help to
make a rich grav\ .
The first process before casseroling any meat is to
cut it in pieces convenient for serving, then Hour and
season it, and brown in an iron spider u>ing the fat
fried from salt pork which adds not a little to the
flavoring. Put in the vegetables, make a gravy with a
cupful of water and the brown juice in the spicier, or
if you have stock, use that. Pour it over the meat, cover
tight and set in a hot oven till it comes to the bubbling
point, then turn down the gas and let it cook very
slowly for two or three hours. Chicken and sliced veal
may be treated in the same fashion and occasionally 1
have transformed a tough duck or rabbit into a delicious
dish by slow casserole cooking. Kidneys, also a beef or
calves' hearts, may be made tender and savory in this
way.
Casserole of Beef
One recipe for beef in the casserole will serve as a
guide for cooking any piece of meat which is not tender
JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 211
f"
enough to be roasted or broiled. Take two or three
pounds of round steak ; it need not be from the more
expensive top of the round, a lower cut is good enough
and will be quite tender if properly cooked. Remember,
the tougher the meat, the more delicious the gravy, and
the greater your achievement in transforming a cheap
food into a nutritious and sightly dish. Have the meat
cut half way across the round. Wipe it, tie into shape,
salt and pepper it, then roll in flour, till thickly coated,
sear in hot fat, turning every side of the cut till well
browned. Have the casserole hot, add two cupfuls of
canned tomato, half an onion, a sliced carrot, and a tur-
nip, two stalks of chopped celery, a sprig of parsley, and
half a teaspoonful of mixed whole spices. Pour a cupful
of water in the spider, add a teaspoonful of kitchen
bouquet, and pour over the meat. Cover tightly and set
in a hot oven. As soon as the meat begins to cook, turn
the gas low and cook very slowly for two or three hours.
If you wish to serve potatoes with this dish, about fifteen
minutes before taking the casserole from the oven, add
as many as you wish, sliced and parboiled. Serve on
a platter with the vegetables as a garnish, and the gravy
in a boat.
The variations on casseroled dishes are restricted by
individual taste and by what is in the pantry. For in-
stance, if you desire, the steak may be onioned, by add-
ing, instead of vegetables, four or five onions sliced and
fried light brown in the spider. Or mushrooms may be
used instead of the vegetables. If you like the canned
variety, pour off the liquor and add them to the gravy
ten minutes before taking the meat from the oven.
212 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Casseroled Veal
Casseroled veal is delicious treated like steak, using
instead of vegetables, one shredded green pepper, half a
sliced onion, fried light brown, with a cupful of hot
steamed rice added half an hour before serving. Chicken
is at its best when cooked in this fashion with mush-
rooms and potatoes. A dash of onion, green pepper,
or pimiento, adds to the flavor of chicken, veal, or rabbit.
When lamb chops — or better still — slices of lamb cut
from across the leg, are casseroled, make a bed of par-
boiled vegetables underneath, using diced carrots,
parsnip, or turnip.
Put on top of these the browned meat, with a
sprinkling of finely cut onion and celery, afterward pour
over all the -lightly thickened gravy.
Beef Tongue en Casserole
Another delicious casserokd dish is a beef tongue
which has been slightly corned. I1,- >il it first, trim off
unsightly bits and skin. Rub with tl<>ur. to which ha*-
been added a <la>h nf ^in^er, and allspice. Fry a feu-
slices of onion in salt pork, then put the tongue in the
spider, first tying it into shape. Flour it and fry lightly
on all sides. Make a cupful of gravy, adding the juice of
a lemon, three tablespoon fills of shredded almonds, and
half a cupful of seeded raisins. Put the tongue in a
round casserole, pour the gravy over it, and bake half
an hour in a moderate oven. Untie the meat, turn out
on a chop plate, and serve with the gravy poured over it.
Calves' Hearts
A favorite dish in our house is casseroled calves'
hearts, which are so tender and well flavored they might
Casserole of Beef.
Recipe on Page 210.
Corn Cakes to serve with Meat.
Recipe on Page 336.
Casseroled Veal.
Recipe on /'<///(' 212.
- -*»•••
•
^ " -*
*
t reamed Asparagus lips.
The Individual Casserole Makes an Attracti\-c \Ta\ of
. /
Let-orers.
JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 213
almost be palmed off as venison. Fry an onion with
a few slices of fat bacon ; roll four calves' hearts in flour,
and brown them all over. Put in a hot casserole, add one
cupful of stock, a shredded pimiento and half a teaspoon-
ful of mixed, whole spices. Cover the casserole tightly,
then bake for two hours. Before serving, garnish the
meat with crisped bacon.
When clearing up food remnants, try my plan of scrap-
ing what can be used in this way into the little dishes
before the food cools. Sometimes it may be only a few
spoonfuls of some creamed dish, chicken, fish, oysters,
lobster, crab, sweetbreads, dried beef, or a remnant of
some meat with gravy. If it seems too dry, add a spoon-
ful of milk or gravy. Set the ramekins in the refrigera-
tor until required. Generally they need to be topped off
with crumbs, or a film of grated cheese which is a de-
licious addition. If they are baked in a pan of boiling
water, the food will be more moist and the dishes easier
to wash. The only food I do not ramekin in this way is
a baked egg, which is improved by a slightly crusted
bottom.
Chicken pie ramekins are a favorite luncheon at our
house. Into the larger ramekin I put bits of stewed
chicken, first picking it from the bones. Fill the dish
three-quarters full with meat and gravy, then cover with
a rich biscuit crust shaped with a cutter about the size
of the ramekin. Cut a hole in the top and bake crisp.
It is well to set chicken pies in the oven on a tin, as the
gravy is liable to ooze out while baking.
Certain vegetable left-overs may be reheated in rame-
kins ; potatoes, mushrooms, cauliflower, and cabbage are
good when gratined. Asparagus tips, peas, beans, or
onions may be creamed. Macaroni and spaghetti topped
2i4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
off with cheese, make delicious little side dishes for
dinner.
Even left-over desserts may be re-served in ramekin-.
Bread pudding enriched by fruit, cocoanut, chocolate, or
apples, if moistened slightly with milk or a spoonful of
cold custard, makes a very respectable appearance when
served piping hot in ramekins. Do not fill the little dishes
to the t<>]), but leave space for a garnish of hard sauce
which adds to its toothsomeness as well as to looks.
Cabinet, fig. blueberry, tapioca, Indian, rice, cracker, or
fruit-tapioca as well as plum pudding and, indeed, almost
any remnant of a steamed pudding may be made over
successfully 1>\ moistening and reheating in ramekins.
Of course a " musthave v with such a dessert is a spoon-
ful of hard sauce or a rich liquid >auce which enhance-
the flavor of a pudding.
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS
Planked Beefsteak with Potato Roses
The housewife who ha- never thought of planked
steak except in connection with a restaurant will not
believe how very simple it is to prepare it until she has
tried it in her own kitchen ; fasten the steak to the
plank with galvanized wire tacks, selecting either a
tenderloin, porterhouse, or Delmonico cut of the beef.
Have the board very warm and greased with melted
butter, then run the plank under the gas flame as you
would to broil, regulate the ilame until it is cooked to
your liking, dot with bit- of butter, seasun with salt and
paprika, and place for a moment on the open oven door.
Have in readiness hot, creamy mashed potatoes and as
JUST-HOW TO COOK MEATS 215
quickly as possible pipe them around the edge of the
plank or form little rosettes at either end, returning
under the flame for a moment or two to brown ; serve
garnished with mushrooms, peas, or parsley as you may
prefer.
Parker House Roast Beef
A piece of beef intended for roasting is carefully
freed of tough membranes. To prevent the meat from
becoming dry in cooking, it is larded with strips of salt
pork. Or better still, slices of beef-suet are pounded
with a wooden beater to the thickness of a slice of bacon,
and the roast is enveloped in these. It is then roasted in
a very hot oven, allowing ten minutes for every pound,
unless the roast happens to be longer than it is wide.
In the latter case, eight minutes for each pound will be
sufficient. Serve the roast with only its own juices for
gravy and \vith fresh grated horseradish as a relish. This
method of roasting beef is especially adapted to cooking
in gas-ovens.
Swiss Steak
Select a two-pound steak from the under or upper
round. See that it is cut one inch or one and one-half
inches in thickness. Sear it on both sides in a hot skillet.
Then remove to a platter and dust thickly with flour.
Place in a casserole with a small piece of suet. Mix one
chopped onion with one cupful of tomato. Season with
salt and pepper and place this dressing over one-half
the meat and fold the other half over. Add a very little
water, renewing if necessary to keep it from burning, and
cook very slowly two or three hours. Thicken the gravy,
if liked, and serve from the casserole.
216 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Flank Steak with Onions
Place in a casserole a flank steak, cut from the thick
end of the flank, one and one-half inches thick. Cover
with two inches' depth of onions sliced and well seasoned
with salt and pepper. Finally cover with thin slices of
salt pork and add one cupful of water. Cover closely
and bake in a slow oven or a fireless cooker all the
afternoon. There will he little evidence of the salt pork
when done. Just before serving remove cover and brown.
Serve from the casserole.
Rolled Beefsteak
Make a go..d dressing as for turkey and spread it over
a tuo-pound round steak. I\oll it up and tie it securely
and put it in a cloth bag and boil it for two hours.
About half an hour before ^erving, take it from the bag
and brown it in the oven. Serve it with a good brown
>auce or with a tomato -auce with chopped green peppeis.
Meat Loaf with Hard Cooked Eggs
Chop one pound each of raw veal and beef with one-
fourth pound of salt pork. Add one-half teaspoonful
each of thyme and marjoram, or one tablespoonful of
poultry seasoning and one-half teaspoonful of onion
juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and salt and
pepper to taste. Mix it with one-half cupful of bread
crumbs and two well -beaten eggs. Mutter a mold and
fill half full with the meat mixture. On this place
lengthwise two whole hard cooked eggs, then fill with the
rest of the mixture. Place a tablespoonful of melted
butter or beef shortening on top and bake in a slow
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 217
oven one and one-half hours. When served the meat will
have a round slice of hard cooked egg in each slice of
meat. Parsley may be used for a garnish and the meat
may be served hot or cold.
Beef Loaf, Mexican Sauce
Add one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper,
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one cupful of
stale bread crumbs, to two pounds of lean chopped beef.
Moisten with strained tomato sauce, and shape in loaf
bread pan. Turn out into a greased baking pan, and
bake thirty minutes, basting often with tomato juice.
Serve on a hot platter, surrounded with Mexican sauce.
Mexican Sauce
Cook a fourth of a cupful each of chopped onion, red
and green peppers, in a fourth of a cupful of butter, or
beef dripping, until soft. Add four tablespoon fuls of
flour and, when smooth, one and a half cupfuls of stewed
tomato. Cook ten minutes, then season with salt.
Hash in Disguise
Mince finely enough cold corned beef to fill two cups,
also an equal amount of potatoes, one slice of onion, if
desired, and half a green pepper. Mix well together
and season highly with salt and pepper and if the meat
is mostly lean, add a tablespoonful of slightly melted
butter. Rub about three cupfuls of boiled lima beans
through the sifter or colander to remove the skins.
Season the pulp with salt and pepper and mix with a well
2i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
beaten egg to bind. Form the hash as nearly as possible
into a roll, and with the hands cover the entire outside
with this pulp. Lift carefully on to baking dish. JJrush
the outside with melted butter and bake until thoroughly
heated. Serve with a white sauce, to which may be
added, if desired, a little more of the minced green pep-
per, or two or three drops of onion juice.
English Cottage Pie
Put the beef bone of your roast on l" stew with cold
water, one sliced onion, a few cloves, one >prig of parsley.
and a bit of celery. Chop the left-over meat very fine,
add pepper and salt. Strain the stock and with it make
a brown sauce, using, two tablespoonfuls of butter and
three tablespoonfuls of Hour to each cupful of liquid.
Season with Worcestershire sauce and put half of it into
the bottom of a baking dish, then add the minced meat,
the rest of the sauce, and o»ver with seasoned mashed
potatoes, having potatoes one inch deep. J>ake the pie
until heated through and very delicately browned.
Bobtee
One pint of cold cooked meat chopped fine, one-half
of a small onion, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful
of milk, two ounces of bread, eight sweet almonds, three
eggs, a dash of salt, and one teaspoonful of curry powder.
Put the butter in a frying pan and slice in the onion. Fry
a nice brown. Add the milk and bread. Take from the
fire and let stand ten minutes, lilanch and chop almonds
and add them, the meat, the curry powder, and the egg.s
well beaten to the ingredients in the frying pan. Rub
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 219
a baking dish with butter and the juice of a lemon. Put
the mixture in this and bake in the oven twenty minutes.
Beef Olives
Pass through a meat chopper several times, until quite
fine, half a pound of raw beef, half a pound of cold
cooked meat, and half a pound of bread, which has been
soaked in water, a little parsley, and a piece of fat salt
pork about the size of an egg. Season this and add to
it one egg. Mix it well and roll it into balls. Wrap each
ball in oiled paper to hold together while cooking. Bake
them in the oven, in a pan, into which have been placed
some finely chopped carrots and onions, a couple of
tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes, and a little water.
Remove to a hot platter, and add a little flour to the
gravy. Strain the gravy over the beef olives.
Mock Duck
Buy a flank steak. Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onion in one- fourth cupful butter or drippings. Add
one-half cupful soft stale bread crumbs, one-fourth tea-
spoonful of mixed seasoning, salt and pepper to taste.
Spread over the steak, roll and tie. Brown the roll in
three tablespoonfuls of fat, and remove to a casserole or
covered dish. To the fat in the pan add an equal quan-
tity of flour, and brown ; then add one cupful stock or
boiling water, and one cupful strained tomato, season
with salt, and pepper, pour over the roll, cover dish, and
cook slowly until the meat is tender. If cooked in a
casserole it may be served in the same dish. It may
also be cooked in a fireless cooker.
220 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Meat Balls with Horseradish Sauce
One pound of chopped steak, one teaspoonful of salt,
one-sixth teaspoonful of paprika, one onion. Chop meat
and onion together, season, make into firm balls, sear in
butter in saucepan, reduce temperature, turn balls often
and serve rare. Horseradish sauce: one-half cupful of
horseradish, one-half cupful of cracker dust, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-sixteenth teaspoonful of pepper,
one-half cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of mustard,
one-quarter cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar. Mix salt and pepper, cracker dust, and
horseradish. Make a paste of mustard and cream in a
spoon, add it with cream to the mixture: add full amount
of vinegar if horseradish is fresh, and heat the materials
in a double boiler. Serve hot.
Roast Leg of Mutton
While roasting tl>c mutton, as directed in the chapter
on roasting meat>. baste very frequently, that it may be
moist, then >er\e surrounded with a puree of French
beans, llreton style, which is made as follows: Cover
one pound of white haricot beans with hot water, and
cook until thoroughly done. The time is not given, be-
cause it varies with the condition of the beans as well as
the hardness of the water. The beans should simmer
slowly, and only enough water used to keep them covered.
When they are soft, mash them in their own liquor, press
the beans through a fine sieve, return to the fire and
reheat, stirring carefully to prevent burning, and if the
puree is too thick, thin it with a little of the mutton
gravy. Heap about the mutton, or press through a pastry
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 221
tube in forms. Serve mutton and beans with currant or
grape jelly.
Lamb Souffle
Pass two cupfuls of cold lamb through the meat chop-
per, add a little minced parsley, a small cupful of cream
sauce, a dash of onion juice, pepper and salt to taste;
two slices of minced cooked bacon, and one beaten egg
yolk. Cook this over hot water until the ingredients are
all heated and then allow to cook. Fold in when quite
cold the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, turn into but-
tered souffle cups that have been placed in a pan of hot
water, and cook for half an hour in a rather quick oven.
Serve immediately accompanied by brown bread sand-
wiches.
Lamb Timbales
Cook together for five minutes two tablespoonfuls of
butter, one-half cupful of soft bread crumbs, and one cup-
ful of milk. Add one cupful of finely chopped, cold
cooked lamb, two slightly beaten eggs, one-half teaspoon-
ful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and turn
into buttered timbale molds. Bake, having molds sur-
rounded by water, until the mixture is firm. Serve with
a cream sauce to which have been added two canned
pimientos which have been rubbed through a sieve.
Veal with Sour Cream Gravy
Prepare a loin or shoulder of veal for roasting, cut
strips of fat salt pork and lay over the meat and in the
222 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
bottom of the pan. Baste frequently with thick sour
cream and, after the first half-hour, cook slowly until
meat is done. Make a gravy as usual, allowing two
tablespoonfuls of fat and two tablespoon fuls of Hour to
each cupful, or half-pint, of liquid. The cream gives the
veal a delicious flavor, and the meat is very white when
treated in this way.
Bavarian Veal Chops
Place in a stew pan six loin chops, with a sliced onion,
six slices of carrot, two cloves, and a few peppercorns,
one ounce of butter, and enough boiling water to cover.
Cook slowly until meat is tender. Drain, season with
salt and pepper, dip in egg. roll in flour, and saute in
pork-fat until brown. Serve on platter with boiled
macaroni mixed with soubise sauce. For the sauce, use
two tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of llmir.
one cupful of the water in which chops were cooked, salt,
pepper, and bring to boiling point. When thickened, add
one-half cupful of cream or milk, and a puree of boiled
onions, made by cooking two cupfuls of sliced onions,
until soft, then forcing them through a puree sieve.
Veal Cutlet, Baked
Remove bone and carefully trim a cutlet of veal.
Place in a buttered baking dish, on a thinly sliced onion.
Add one cupful of stewed and strained tomato, one table-
spoonful each of minced green pepper and parsley, one-
half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of
paprika, and a few grains pepper. P.ake half an hour.
Remove to a hot platter, and pour over it the sauce
from pan.
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 223
Veal Dandy
Season a pan with butter, salt and pepper, and a little
sage (use but a little to give the mere suggestion of its
flavor). Then place in the pan tiny strips of thinly cut
fat salt pork, then about a pound and a half of veal
steak, which has been cut thick and from which all
outer edge and bone have been removed ; then season,
and add some squares of thinly cut bread ; season again
and place more strips of pork — (a half-pound of pork
is enough) — add a good inch of water; start cooking in
the hot oven as usual, then turn the fire low. If this is
rightly cooked the veal should be a deep rose color, very
tender, and no trace of the pork remaining.
Veal Paprika
Take two pounds of loin of veal. Have the veal cut
in good-sized pieces. Put a tablespoonful of fat or drip-
pings into the pot. Add two onions sliced, make red
with paprika. Let this cook until the onions are well
done but not brown. Add the meat, which is well
sprinkled with salt. Cover and let them brown thor-
oughly. Turn occasionally so it will brown on all sides.
Let it simmer for a while in its own juice, then just cover
it with boiling water and let it simmer for one hour.
This is very good served with boiled spaghetti which has
been seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt.
Creamed Veal
Cut enough cold veal into fine pieces to fill twro cups.
Season to taste with pepper, salt, mace, and add a little
224 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
parsley, according to one's liking ; pour over this one
cupful of milk, put this on the stove and let it come to
a boil, and then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour which
have been previously rubbed smooth with two table-
spoonfuls of butter. Serve on toast.
Veal Loaf
Mix well together three pounds of finely chopped veal
(the neck or fore-quarter veal is very good) with one-
half pound of salt pork. Add four common crackers
(one-half cupful), rolled fine, one tca>poonful of black-
pepper with one-half teaspoonful of nutmeg and two tea-
spoonfuls of salt. Add three beaten egg^ and make into
a loaf. P>ake one hour and a half or two hours in a slow
oven. Haste with butter. Put on the out>idc of the loaf
a small quantity of the rolled cracker. This loaf may
be made with only one egg, using one-fourth cupful of
milk.
Spare-Ribs Stuffed with Apples and Prunes
Sew together several pounds of fresh spare-ribs, so
that they form a pocket, then stuff with the following:
One pound of prunes boiled for five minutes (pour the
juice of the prunes into a bowl). Peel and cut a quart
of sour apples into small pieces, then mix them with the
prunes, adding to this mixture, sugar, a little cinnamon,
and a tablespoonful of cracker dust. Put this stuffing
into the spare-ribs and sew the pocket together. Put
juice of the prunes into pan in which the spare-ribs are
to be roasted, and cook in the oven for one hour.
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 225
Parisian Pork Tenderloins in the Chafing Dish
Remove the small rounds of meat from the under part
of the pork ribs and place in the chafing dish, together
with a cupful of the brown gravy, a few drops of
tabasco sauce, half a cupful of tomato catsup, a pinch
each of salt and celery salt, and a small piece of butter;
simmer only until the meat is thoroughly heated, then
place over the hot water pan, stirring in a cupful of
cooked macaroni that has been cut in small pieces; servre
very hot on squares of fried hominy, garnished with crisp
parsley.
Philadelphia Scrapple
Cleanse and scrape well a pig's head and feet and boil
until tender, putting on the fire in cold water with some
onions, carrots, two of each, some pieces of turnip, salt,
and pepper, and a dash of paprika. When tender re-
move from the liquor and put the meat through a meat
chopper ; extract all grease and boil again in some good
rich stock. To each three pounds of meat, add one pound
of Indian meal and one pound of rolled oats. Cook in
double boiler for an hour. It should be very thick like
porridge. Sugar added to the scrapple improves it.
Wet molds or square bread tins in cold water, fill with
scrapple, and set away to cool. When wanted for use,
slice, dip in crumbs, and fry in butter.
Kentucky Ham
Select a small ham. Soak over night if very salt.
Then wash thoroughly in cold water, and cover with a
226 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
layer of baking soda, which is scrubbed into the ham
with a brush. Rinse off and trim neatly and place in
a bake pan. Mix the seasoning, consisting of half a tea-
spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, celery seed, and
pepper. Rub the whole into the surface of the ham and
cover with a very thick layer of onion, minced fine.
Cover the whole with a layer of pastry made by mixing
sni'iothly a cup of sifted rlour in half a cup of water.
This pastry is rolled out thin and wound about the ham
closely. The pan is then filled with boiled cider and
placed in the oven to bake >ln\vly and steadily for four
hours with frequent bastings from the cider. Serve with
candied sweet potatoes, baked squash, and spinach with
a relish of apple sauce.
Southern Ham
Wash and soak for two hours two large slices of lean
ham, cut at least an inch thick. I lutter the bottom of a
r,T-sfn>le ; then add pepper and a sprinkling of brown
sugar; then place upon this the ham. add more bits of
butter, and more -prinklings of the brown sugar, with
water the depth of the ham. Cover and cook in a
casserole, in a slow oven all the afternoon.
Baked Sliced Ham
Place in a baking pan a slice of ham cut one inch
thick. If the ham is not ' mild cured ' it should be
soaked in cold water an hour. Sprinkle on top a little
powdered mustard, brown sugar, and two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar. Add a little water, bake about forty minutes,
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 227
basting often. Add a little boiling water to the gravy
but do not thicken.
Baked Ham
Choose a small, thin-skinned ham, and scrub well. Put
into a kettle, cover with cold water to which is added
one cup molasses. Bring to a boil, and simmer until
ham is tender. Remove from water, and place in a
baking pan. Trim off rind and some fat, leaving a layer
half an inch thick. Stick full of cloves, cover thickly
with dark brown sugar, moistened with one cup sherry,
white wine or cider. Place in a moderate oven, and
bake slowly for two hours. It is better to cook the ham
longer in the oven, and less time in the water, as it is
less likely to drop apart, in which case it is extremely
difficult to carve.
Ham Timbales
To one cupful of lean chopped ham add half a cupful
of stale bread crumbs and one cupful of cream sauce
made with one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoon-
fuls of flour, one cupful of milk, one-fourth teaspoonful
of salt, and a few grains of cayenne ; add a slightly beaten
egg and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Pour
into buttered timbale molds or small cups and bake in
a pan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Arrange on
a platter or on individual dishes and surround with
drawn butter sauce. Garnish with parsley.
Noodle and Ham Pudding
One-pound package of medium-sized noodles, one cup-
ful of cream or milk, three-quarters of a pound of cold
boiled ham, and a dash of pepper or paprika. Boil the
228 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
noodles about ten minutes in water, add a scant table-
spoonful of salt, then remove the noodles from boiling
water, put into a colander, and pour cold water over them.
(This prevents the noodles from sticking together.)
Put a layer of noodles in a baking dish and then sprinkle
ham over the noodles, repeat this, leaving a layer of
noodles as the final layer, pour over this the milk or
cream. Bake in the oven for thirty minutes.
Ham Trifle
Chop one cupful of cold boiled ham, three hard cooked
eggs, and five soda crackers. Heat two cupfuls of milk,
add to this a good-sized piece of butter, and thicken with
one teaspoonful of flour and one teaspoonful of dry
mustard. Stir into this the chopped ham, eggs, and
crackers, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley.
Put in a baking dish and bake for half an hour.
Sausage Bundles
Roll out plain paste in six-inch squares, rather thin.
Cut Frankfurt sausages in thin slices, rejecting the skin,
and lay the slices in two rows in the centers of the pieces
of paste; double, pinch ends together, and fold as you
would do up a bundle, wetting the edges to make them
stick ; then place them on ice until ready to bake. 1 Jake
them in a hot oven fifteen minutes, and serve hot with
French or German mustard. This is a popular dish for
Sunday night supper, especially with men.
Liver with Bechamel Sauce
Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful
of flour, add a little salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 229
and cayenne, and one-half cupful of stock. When boil-
ing add one teaspoonful each of Worcestershire sauce
and lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls of cream mixed
with one yolk and one cupful of cold, cooked liver cut
in dice. Serve in ramekins.
German Luncheon Dish
Cook spinach in the usual way, and heap on the middle
of a platter. Garnish with slices of hard cooked eggs,
and place round all, some thin slices of broiled bacon.
Deviled Kidney
Soak the kidney in cold water and cook in soup
stock to which have been added a minced onion, a bay
leaf, a stalk of chopped celery, and diced carrot. When
tender drain and chop as finely as possible (rejecting any
skin or strings). Season highly with salt and paprika,
and add two tablespoonfuls of grated bread crumbs and
a small cupful of tomato catsup ; then turn into shallow
baking shells, and after sprinkling with browned bread
crumbs, bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes; serve
in the shells garnished with parsley.
Masked Sweetbreads
Blanch one pound of sweetbreads, remove pipes and
skin, and put through the meat grinder with two slices
of salt pork. Form into cutlet shapes, and pin them
tight in cheesecloth to keep their shapes. Place on ice.
After an hour or two saute them on one side only in a
little butter for five minutes and place them in a buttered
230 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
baking-pan, cooked side up. \Yhen cool, cover them
with a masking preparation made as follows : Cover a
small peeled onion with cold water, place on the fire and
boil for five minutes, drain dry, and cut in slices. Saute
the slices in one tablespoonful of butter until slightly
brown, add one cupful of stock, and cook until tender ;
press through a sieve with the stock. Melt three table-
spoonfuls of butter, add a third of a cupful of flour, half
a teaspoonful of salt, and a little paprika. Add enough
cream to the onion ami stock mixture to make one and
a third cup fuls and add this to the mixture in saute pan;
when boiling, add one large egg, or one egg and an extra
yolk, cook for a moment, remove from the fire, and add
a dash of cayenne and nutmeg. Cover the >wcetbreads
about a fourth of an inch. Cool, then cover with soft
bread crumbs rolled in melted butter; place a whole
mushroom, partly cooked in butter, on each cutlet, and
garnish with slices or stripes of truffle or red and green
pepper. I'.ake ten minutes. Serve with a brown mush-
room sauce around the edge of platter, with a mound of
fried eggplant straws in the center.
Apples Stuffed for Roast Pork
Add a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of minced onion, half
a teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper to two
and a half cupfuls of white stock ; simmer for twenty
minutes and strain. Pare and core ten tart apples.
Place in the bottom of agate pan ; pour the strained stock
over them and simmer until they can be pierced with a
fork; carefully remove them from the stock, and set
aside to cool. Blanch two cupfuls of chestnut meats,
slice, cover with the stock, add four teaspoonfuls of cur-
rant jelly, and simmer until tender. If the meats are too
JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 231
moist, drain. Fill the center of the apples with the
chestnut mixture and serve with roast pork. This recipe
will serve a dozen persons.
Currant Mint Sauce
Beat one-half tumbler of currant jelly with a fork
until quite smooth; add .two tahlespoonfuls of chopped
fresh mint, the grated rind of half an orange, one-fourth
teaspoonful of salt, and a few grains of cayenne. Serve
with lamb chops or a crown of lamb.
Cranberry Relish
Two quarts of cranberries, three and a half pounds of
white sugar, one pound of seeded raisins, the rind of
two oranges, chopped very fine, one cup of vinegar, juice
of two oranges, one teaspoonful each of ginger, cloves,
and cinnamon. Cook all to a marmalade, and put in jars.
This is excellent with cold meats, especially chicken, tur-
key, and game.
Horseradish Sauce
Beat one cupful of cream until stiff, then add two
tablespoonfuls of fresh, or three tablespoonfuls of evapo-
rated, horseradish root, one tablespoonful of vinegar,
one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful
of paprika. Good with roast beef, or veal, or on toma-
toes to be served as a salad.
Braised Tongue
A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue
in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two
232 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
hours. Take tongue from water, drench with cold water,
remove skin and membranes ; fasten the tip around against
the thick part, tying or skewering firmly. Fry two onions,
one turnip, and one carrot, all cut fine, in butter until
brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Flour the
tongue all over and put into a hot pan with the butter.
Turn it on all sides until browned slightly. Put the
tongue, the fried vegetables, a small piece of stick cinna-
mon, one clove, and a bunch of sweet herbs into a
casserole. Add one quart of the liquor in which the
tongue was boiled. Close the lid as tightly as possible to
keep in the steam. Place in the oven. After one and
one-half hours open, turn the tongue, and add the juice
of one lemon. Close as before and leave one-half an
hour longer in the oven. Now put the tongue on a hot
dish, and set it over hot water while the gravy is being
boiled down for fifteen to twenty minutes. If it is not
quite thick enough, mix two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch
with a little cold water, stir it into the boiling gravy, and
boil two or three minutes. Strain some of the gravy over
the tongue and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Tongue braised in this manner may be served surrounded
by a soft puree of potatoes well seasoned with plenty of
butter or rich hot cream, salt, and pepper. Serve all the
sauce in a sauce-boat.
MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 233
J234 MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS
MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 235
236 MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS
DESSERTS
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
HIS is a class of food products which appeal
particularly to the taste and are not of any
particular value from the nutritional point of
view. I do not say this because I think
desserts have no food value. They are
usually made largely of sugar, which has a
very considerable food value, but that is not
the question at this point. When the dessert is served,
as a rule the man who sits at the table has already eaten
all he ought to. The dessert simply comes then as a
burden to digestion. I do not mean at all to imply that
the recipes that follow are of no value. This is not my
meaning at all. The thing I wish to impress upon the
reader is that desserts pander to the taste rather than
minister to the needs of the body. Desserts, therefore,
should be delicate and not served in very large quantities,
and the diner who has his own welfare at heart will
save a place for them. The sugars which enter so largely
into the desserts are food products, but minister only
to the production of heat and energy and the formation
of fat. The deposition of adipose matter is the Nemesis
which follows the over-eater.
237
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS
HE first fresh-apple pie of the late summer
has a flavor quite unlike those made with
winter apples, and its appearance on the table
is hailed with gustatory delight by those who
are familiar with its delicious qualities. The
excessive use of pastry, common in the old
times, is not recommended ; but a pie made
of light flaky paste, delicately flavored fruit, well baked
and eaten while fresh, may occasionally help to complete
a dinner when the first course is somewhat light. A pie
like those often served at grandmother's may be made
this way :
Apple Pie
Line a pie plate with pastry made in these proportions
for one pie. One-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and one
rounded tablespoonful of lard rubbed into one heaped
cupful of sifted pastry flour. Wet with cold water to a
stiff dough. Pat with rolling pin into an oblong, half
inch thick, spread with one rounded tablespoonful of
cold, hard butter in little dabs, dredge with flour, roll
over, then pat down flat and roll, into a long narrow
piece; roll over like a jelly roll and divide in middle.
Stand one-half on end, pat flat, and roll out to fit the
plate, a trifle large to allow for shrinking.
Fill the plate with pared and sliced tart apples. Roll
239
240 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
•
the other crust and lay it on lightly without pressing
edges together. Bake in a hot oven, and when brown
and the apples are soft, run a knife between the crusts.
Remove the top carefully to another plate. To the hot
apple add a teaspoonful of butter and a mixture of half
a cupful of sugar (or more if liked very sweet), a slight
dash of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of any spice
preferred, nutmeg, cinnamon, or allspice, or grated lemon
rind. Mix carefully till butter and sugar melt, cover with
top crust and serve. Or, take out part of the seasoned
apple, lay the upper crust with top down on the pie, and
cover with the remaining apple. Serve while warm.
For festive occasions cover the top with whipped
sweetened cream ; or with a meringue of two egg whites,
and two heaped tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar fla-
vored with lemon juice, and brown it slightly.
Mincemeat Without Meat
Chop together one peck of green tomatoes and one
dozen large apples. Add one tablespoonful of ground
cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoon-
fuls of allspice, one grated nutmeg, five pounds of brown
sugar, two pounds of raisin-, one pound of finely
shredded citron. Chop two oranges and two lemons,
and add with one cupful <>f vinegar and any jelly or fruit
juice that you may have. Cook all together until toma-
toes are tender. Then add brandy when making into
pies.
Mock Cherry Pie
Chop one quart of cranberries, add two and one-half
cupfuls of sugar, or if preferred, two cupfuls of sugar
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 241
and one-half cupful of molasses. Then add one table-
spoonful of flour, with one-half cupful of water, or one
tablespoonful of cornstarch, wet with a little cold water
to which one cupful of boiling water is added. If liked,
add one cupful of chopped raisins. This makes two
pies.
Lemon Sticks
Make a good paste, using one and one-half cupfuls of
flour, sifted with one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, one-
fourth cupful of lard and butter, or other shortening, and
ice-water enough to make a stiff dough. Roll out one-
fourth inch thick, cut into strips one inch wide by four
inches long. Bake in a quick oven. When cool, split
and fill with lemon filling. Cook together one-half cup-
ful of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, juice and rind
of one lemon, one egg, and one tablespoonful of butter,
until thick. Cool and use to fill the pastry.
Transparent Pie
Line a pie-plate with a good pastry, and fill with the
following mixture: Cream together one cupful of butter
and two cupfuls of sugar; add the beaten yolks of four
eggs and two tablespoonfuls of jelly. Bake until firm;
cover with a meringue made by beating the whites of eggs
with three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar and
one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Bake fifteen minutes in
a slow oven.
Thanksgiving Brambles
To one cupful raisins, seeded and chopped fine, add
one lemon: juice, pulp, and grated rind; one-half cupful
242 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
of sugar, one egg, one tablespoonful of cracker-dust with
one-half cup of chopped nutmeats. Tut one tablespoon-
ful of the mixture on a round, cut from plain pastry and
three inches in diameter. Cover with another round,
pinch edges together tightly, prick the top crust with a
fork, and bake. If the fruit mixture seems very stiff,
add a little water.
Pumpkin Pie
Into a quart of stewed, strained, and cooled pumpkin
stir a (juart of rich milk, a cupful of granulated sugar,
cinnamon, and nutmeg to taste, and, when these are \\vll
mixed, six eggs beaten light. Meat" all together for a
minute, and pour the mixture into deep pie-plates lined
with the very best pastry you can make. Hake in a mod-
erately hot oven. \Yhen the custard is " set," lay paper
over the pies until five minutes before taking them out
of the oven. Then set upon the upper grating of the
oven to brown. Eat cold, with American cheese.
Date Pie
\Yash one pound of date- and soak over night, stew
in same water till soft enough to rub through colander.
Add one cupful of sour cream, two level tablespoonfuls
of butter, yolks of three eggs, one teaspoonful of cinna-
mon, one of nutmeg, and a little salt. JJake in one crust.
Make a meringue of whites of eggs, if liked.
Butterscotch Pie
One cupful of sour cream, one tablespoonful of butter,
one of flour, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of brown
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 243
sugar, teaspoonful of vanilla, and a little salt. Beat to-
gether, pour into one crust, and bake. Make meringue
of whites of eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Brown in very slow oven.
Cream Pie
Mix one-half cupful of powdered sugar, and one-half
cupful of flour, little salt. Spread over lower crust, then
turn on one cupful of sour cream, stirring very lightly,
not to break crust. Grate nutmeg over top, and bake in
quick oven.
Sour Cream Pie, No. 2
One cupful sour cream, one cupful of sugar, one egg,
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of
flour, salt, cinnamon, and cloves to taste. Beat, and
bake between two crusts.
Pineapple Turnovers
Roll plain paste thin and cut into four-inch squares.
Upon each place one rounding tablespoonful of fresh
sweetened pineapple drained from the syrup or pineapple
preserve. Moisten edges of two sides with water or milk
and fold into a triangle, pinching the edges together.
Bake, or fry, in deep fat. Serve warm, sprinkled with
powdered sugar.
Steamed Date Pudding
Cream half a cupful of butter, add one cupful of
molasses, one cupful of milk, one pound of stoned and
244 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
chopped dates, mixed with two cupfuls of stale bread
crumbs, one teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoonful
each of clove, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg, mixed and
sifted with one cupful of entire wheat flour. Turn into
a buttered pudding-tin and steam three hours. Serve
with creamy sauce.
Brown Betty
To one quart of milk, one-fourth cupful of Indian meal
scalded in the milk, add one cupful of sugar, one-half
cupful of molasses, a dash of salt and ginger, one table-
spoonful of butter, three-quarters of a cupful of raisins,
one-half cupful of nuts. Put in oven and bake slowly
about three and one-half hours.
Rhubarb Pudding
Sift together two cupfuls of flour, a pinch of salt,
spices as doired, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
and half a cupful of sugar. Stir in one egg beaten with
half a cupful of milk and two tablespoon fuls of butter;
add two cupfuls of rhubarb cut into small pieces (use the
pink part with the skin left on), bake twenty minutes,
and serve with a sauce.
Bread Pudding
Pour one quart of hot milk over half of an ordinary
loaf of stale bread, mash this mixture until smooth and
add one tablespoonful of butter. When this is cool, add
three well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful of white sugar,
a little nutmeg, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cup-
Ivory Cream,
Recipe on Page 252.
Grandmothers Strawberry Shortcake.
Recipe on Page 245.
Gooseberry Amber.
Recipe on /'<///<* 260.
Steamed Rice. Molded and Garnished with Cherries.
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 245
ful of mixed citron, seeded raisins, and currants. Bake
or boil this about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot
with hard sauce.
Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake
Stem two boxes of strawberries. Reserve one cupful
of the nicest berries for the top of the shortcake. Mash
the remainder, add a half-cupful of sugar, and stir a
minute to dissolve the sugar. Sift one pint of flour with
a half-teaspoonful of salt and two level teaspoonfuls of
baking powder. Rub in one tablespoonful of butter, and
add enough milk just to moisten. Knead quickly, and
roll out in the shape of the pan in which it is to be
baked. Brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven for
twenty minutes. Pull it apart without cutting — you
can do this easily with two forks. Remove a portion (if
the crumb from the center, butter both pieces, place the
bottom on the serving-dish, pour over the mashed berries,
put on the top, garnish it neatly with the whole berries,
dust thickly with powdered sugar, and send to the table
with a pitcher of cream.
Bunuelos
Mix together one cupful of flour, one and one-half
teaspoonfuls of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of sugar.
Beat one egg slightly, add three-quarters of a cupful of
milk, and combine with dry materials. Add one table-
spoonful of olive oil. Fry on a rosette iron in deep fat,
and serve with an
246 THE PURE FOOD COOK &OOK
Almond Sauce
Grind two ounces of blanched almonds, and cook for
ten minutes with one and one-half cupfuls of milk and one
cupful of sugar. Add the yolk of egg after removing
from the fire.
Suet Pudding
One teacupful of Xew Orleans molasses, one of sweet
milk, one of chopped suet, three and one-half cupfuls of
flour, one and one-half cupfuls of raisins, one teaspoon-
ful of soda, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of cinnamon,
a little salt. Steam three hours.
Sauce for Suet Pudding
One-half cupful of butter creamed with one cupful
of sugar, then add live tablespoonfuls of boiling water,
one at a time. Flavor.
Caramel Bread Pudding
Scald one quart of milk, add one-half cupful of sugar
which has been caramelized. \Yhen caramel is dissolved,
pour the milk over two cups of stale bread crumbs. Add
two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one-
half teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of vanilla.
Pour into a buttered pudding dish, and bake slowly one
hour. Serve with cream, plain or beaten.
Apple and Bread Crumb Pudding
Spread the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with
a thick layer of bread crumbs well browned. Add lumps
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 247
of butter, then a layer of well-sweetened apple-sauce, a
sprinkling of salt and nutmeg, more lumps of butter,
layer of crumbs, alternating with layers of apple-sauce
until the dish is filled. Have the top layer of crumbs and
butter. Bake covered for half an hour, then remove
cover and brown. To elaborate add raisins, currants, and
nuts. Serve hot with hard sauce.
Apricot Dumplings
Drain stewed apricots as dry as possible, and enclose
two or three pieces of apricots in a round of rich biscuit
dough rolled rather thin. Place the dumplings in a deep
basin, sprinkle generously with sugar, nearly cover with
boiling juice, dot with butter, and bake in a rather quick
oven. Peach recipes can be adapted to dried apricots
with delicious results.
Brown Sugar Pudding
Two cupfuls of light brown sugar ; two cupfuls of
boiling water, two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch,
one-half cupful of walnut meats broken into small pieces.
Bring sugar and water to a boil. Thicken with corn-
starch which has first been moistened in a little cold
water. Cook in a double boiler until it is thick. Just
before taking from the fire add the nut meats. Serve
cold with whipped cream.
Baked Indian and Apple Pudding
Stir half a cupful of yellow cornmeal into one
quart of scalded milk. Cook in a double boiler for
248 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
thirty minutes, then add one teaspoonful each of salt and
ginger, and half a cupful of molasses. Pour into a but-
tered earthen baking dish, and bake for one hour, stirring
occasionally. Add two cupfuls of apples, cored and cut
in eighths, and bake, without stirring, for one hour
longer, or until firm. Serve with cream.
To Prepare a Souffle Tin
Select a plain tin mold which will hold two cupfuls.
Ikitter this well. Butter a double piece of thick white
paper, and wrap it around the outside of the tin. Allow
the paper to extend two inches above the top of the tin,
then tie it securely. The paper should be removed just
before serving the souffle.
Lemon Pudding
Heat the yolks of three c-gg». and mix with three-
fourths cupful of sugar and OIK- tablespoonful of butter.
Heat thoroughly and add the juice of three good-sized
lemons, with the grated rind of one lemon, and two
tablespoonfuls of chopped walnuts. Fold in the whites
of three e^g> beaten until stiff, and bake in a buttered
souffle tin until it sets.
Lemon Bread Pudding
Soak one cup of bread crumbs one hour in one pint of
milk. The bread must be just right; second-day bread
is best, not dry. nor broken in pieces, nor grated, but
moist enough to be crumbled. Add one-half cup of
sugar—more if liked — the grated rind of one-half a
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 249
lemon, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake slowly
about one-half hour. Cool and place on ice. Just before
using, if made the day before, beat the whites of the two
eggs until stiff, add juice of one-half a lemon, and a little
sugar. Place the meringue on the pudding and brown
in the oven. Then cool quickly and set on ice, for it
adds to the flavor if very cold.
Maple Tapioca Pudding
Soak one cupful of tapioca in cold water or milk to
cover, then cook in a double boiler until clear. Add the
well-beaten yolks of two eggs, one-quarter teaspoonful
of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, a third-cupful of
powdered maple sugar, and one cupful of milk. Mix
all thoroughly, then stir in the stiffly beaten whites of
the eggs, and bake. If preferred, the whites may be re-
served, sweetened, and spread over the baked pudding
as a meringue, then lightly browned.
Rice Waffles with Maple Syrup
Soak one and one-half cupfuls of cooked rice in enough
warm water to cover. Add two and two-thirds cupfuls
of sour milk, two and one-half cupfuls of sifted flour,
one level teaspoonful of salt, and one beaten egg. Beat
all together thoroughly, and just before frying, beat in
one-half teaspoonful of soda. Have the waffle iron very
hot and use plenty of fat. Put a spoonful of the mixture
into each compartment, cover and brown, then turn and
brown on the other side. Serve the waffles with maple
syrup as a luncheon or supper dish.
250 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Persimmon Pudding
Two cupfuls of sugar and a scant cupful of butter
rubbed to a cream. Beat the yolks and the whites of
five eggs separately and whip the yolks into the creamed
butter and sugar. Whip for one minute and add a quart
of milk gradually, beating all the while. Xow stir in a
scant quart of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful of
baking powder alternately with the stiffened whites of
the eggs. Season to taste with cinnamon and mace
(ground). At the last, beat in a quart of persimmons
which have been seeded and washed, and run through
your vegetable press to a smooth pulp. This should
make two large puddings. Bake in buttered molds which
have funnels through the middle. They will require an
hour's baking in a steady oven. Bake for three-quarters
of an hour covered with paper. Turn out carefully, sift
powdered sugar over them, and eat hot with cream. This
quantity will serve twelve.
Foamy Pudding Sauce
One cupful of sugar; two eggs. Beat sugar and yolk-
together in a bowl, set in boiling water. Then add whites,
beaten stiff. Put a small piece of butter and one tea-
spoonful of vanilla in a bo\vl and pour the hot sauce
over just before serving.
Nut Cream Sauce
Cream together one-fourth of a cupful of butter and
half a cupful of powdered sugar, beating in slowly one
tablespoonful of thick maple syrup, three tablespoonfuls
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 251
of whipped cream, and a small cupful of chopped nut
meats. Keep in a cool place until ready to serve.
Creamy Sauce
To the beaten whites of two eggs add one cupful of
powdered sugar gradually and one cupful of whipped
cream. Add one teaspoonful of vinegar and half a tea-
spoonful of vanilla. Use as soon as prepared.
Maple Hard Sauce
Add one tablespoonful of butter, creamed, to three
tablespoonfuls of powdered maple sugar; beat together
until creamy, then add one teaspoonful of thick, sweet
cream, and beat hard for five minutes. Chill before
serving. Maple syrup may be used by boiling it with
half its quantity of water until it will make a soft ball
when a little is dropped into cold water. Stir until grainy
and let it harden ; then grate or grind to a powder.
Ambrosia
Grate one fresh cocoanut, slice four oranges, four
bananas, and one medium-sized pineapple. Fill a dish
with alternate layers of all of the fruit and cocoanut,
sugaring each layer to taste. Arrange it so that the
cocoanut will come on the last layer. Assemble this
dish at least three hours before it is to be served, and
set on the ice.
Sillabub
Sweeten and season to taste two cupfuls of milk, and
one cupful of thick cream, with vanilla, nutmeg, and
cinnamon. Churn this in a sillabub churn or with a
252 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
cream whip. Skim off the froth as it rises until it is all
whipped and heap this on the dishes and serve imme-
diately. This can be served on fresh or warmed-over
cakes, or on lady-fingers.
Ivory Cream
Scald one pint of thin cream ; add three-fourths cupful
of sugar and one tablespoonful of gelatine, which has
been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Cool,
add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and as it begins to stiffen
fold in one cupful of cream, beaten until stiff. Mold,
and serve garnished with whipped cream and maraschino
cherries, or use blackberries for both sauce and garnish.
Baked Apples with Marshmallow
Wash and core tart apples and place in an earthen-
ware baking dish with just enough water to cover the
bottom. In the center of each apple place a tiny bit <'f
butter and an eighth of a teaspoonful of salt. Cover
and bake slowly till thoroughly cooked, adding a little
water if necessary. Before the apples are quite done,
press into the center of each a marshrnallow ; replace in
the oven ; in three minutes remove the cover and let the
apples and marshmallows brown carefully. Serve cold
with cream. Pears may be cooked in the same way, cut-
ting a slice from the stem end, coring and placing
the pear stem end up in the dish.
Coffee Souffle
Heat one pint of cold coffee with one tablespoonful of
gelatine and one-half cupful of sugar. Pour onto the
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 253
slightly beaten yolks of two eggs, cook over water until
thickened. Remove from fire, add one teaspoonful of
vanilla, one-eighth teaspoonful of salt, the stiffly beaten
whites of two eggs, and allow the mixture to .cool. As
it begins to stiffen fold in one cupful of stiffly beaten
cream. Mold and chill.
Prune Tapioca
Cut into quarters prunes that have been slowly stewed
with sugar and a little grated lemon peel, and pour over
the fruit when cold the following : Soak a cupful of
tapioca in a pint of water for two hours, then cover with
rich milk and cook until tender, stirring in just before
removing from the fire the yolks of two well-beaten eggs,
a heaping tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and a dust-
ing of grated nutmeg. Cover all with a meringue made
from the whites of the eggs and serve cold with a sauce
made from the prune syrup.
Apricot Mousse
Soak over night half a pound of dried apricots and in
the morning cook in the same water until tender, sweet-
ening to taste ; then drain and to about a pint of the
fruit syrup add a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been
dissolved in a little hot water ; allow it to cool but not
stiffen, and then fold in the stiffly whipped whites of two
eggs and a cupful of whipped cream ; beat steadily until
it is a light creamy mass, gradually adding the chopped
apricots as you beat ; pour carefully into an ornamental
mold, placing directly on the ice to chill ; unmold at serv-
ing time .and serve with an iced custard sauce.
254 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Peach Melba
Place in the bottom of a wide-brimmed glass half of
a preserved peach, cover this with a layer of French
vanilla ice cream, laying the other half of the peach
on top : now cap with a tiny pyramid of sweetened
whipped cream and pour over two tablespoonfuls of the
peach syrup. Serve garnished with small crystallized
cherries.
Princess Cream
Whip one pint of cream, add sugar, and flavor with
vanilla. Grate some stale cake (sponge cake preferably »,
and moisten slightly with milk or water. Take a glass
bowl, put in a layer of the cream, then a layer of the cake
crumbs, putting little pieces of jelly on top of the cake,
then another layer of cream, and so on; the top layer
should be of cream decorated with jelly.
Hamburg Sponge
Place in the upper part of the double boiler one pint of
milk, adding two well-beaten eggs and a heaping table-
spoonful of sugar. Cook only until well thickened, and
then remove from the fire, >tirring in half a package of
gelatine dissolved in a little h<>t water. Flavor with the
juice and grated rind of an orange, and when the cream
begins to cool and stiffen, beat to a foam with an egg-
beater, folding in one tablespoonful of powdered sugar
and a half pint of cream beaten solid; turn into wide-
rimmed glasses that have been lined with macaroons, and
place directly on the ice to chill. Serve garnished with
crystallized cherries. (Add more sugar, if desired.)
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 255
Grapefruit Cocktails
Shred the pulp of three large grapefruit, carefully re-
jecting all the white membrane, and place in a china bowl,
adding four heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
four or five drops of cider vinegar, a little grated nut-
meg, and the pulp of three tart oranges ; allow the in-
gredients to stand in the ice chest over night (so that a
rich syrup may form), and when ready to serve put into
tall, slender glasses, placing on each portion one or two
red cherries.
Orange and Grapefruit Cup
This should always be prepared at least six hours be-
fore serving. Shred, for each portion, half a grapefruit
and half of a navel orange, arrange in layers in a stemmed
crystal glass, sprinkling each layer with confectioner's
sugar ; do not fill the glass too full as a delicious syrup
will form above the fruit, when placed in the ice chest to
chill and ripen. Just before serving add a little cherry
syrup, garnishing with the cherries, and serve very cold.
Marshmallow Loaf
Dissolve one tablespoonful of gelatine in half a cupful
of hot water. Stir into this the beaten whites of four
eggs. Add one cupful of sugar and half a cupful of
cold water. Beat for one minute. Divide this mixture
into three or four parts, flavoring each differently, and
coloring each differently with vegetable coloring matter.
Let this stand until it is stiffened, so that the mixture
will not run. Dust a loaf cake tin with powdered sugar.
256 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Put in one color, sprinkle with chopped walnuts, then in
turn put in the other colors, with chopped nuts between
each layer. Set it on ice to harden, and serve in slices
with whipped cream.
Apple Custard
Take mellow apples of medium size. I 'are, core, and
bake until tender in a slow oven. Press through a sieve.
To each cupful of apple pulp add half a cupful of cream,
two level tablespoon fuls of sugar, lump of butter size of
egg, and two stiffly beaten eggs. While the apple pulp is
still hot, blend into it the butter. I I eat the sugar until
it is a syrup and add first the yolks of eg.i^. then the
cream, and beat all vigorously. Pour into buttered cups
and bake in moderately hot oven for fifteen minutes.
Remove from the oven and quickly pour over it the stiftlv
beaten whites of the eggs, re-turn to the oven to brown.
Chill, then set in icebox. Serve with cream.
Royal Cream
Soak one-third of a box of gelatine in one quart of
milk for an hour. Heat the yolks of three eggs and add
a half-cupful of sugar. Put the milk over the fire in a
double boiler. When hot, add the sugar and egg to it.
and stir constantly until creamy. Remove from fire, cool,
and add the stiffly beaten whites. P>eat mixture well for
five minute-. Add one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn
into a mold. When cold, serve with whipped or sweet-
ened cream.
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 257
Cocoanut Blancmange
Mix one-fourth cupful of cornstarch and one-fourth
cupful of sugar with a little cold water. Add to two
cupfuls of scalded milk and stir until it thickens. Cook
in a double boiler for twenty minutes, stirring occa-
sionally. Cool slightly, add one cupful of shredded
cocoanut, the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, and one-
fourth of a cupful of candied or Maraschino cherries, cut
in small pieces. Chill in molds, wet with cold water, and
serve with cream or a soft custard made with the yolks
of eggs.
Jellied Oatmeal
Place three cupfuls of water and one of milk in the
upper part of the double boiler, add a pinch of salt, and
when boiling, stir in two cupfuls of oatmeal ; cover
closely and cook for two hours over hot water ; then add,
just previous to serving, one large cupful of stiffly
whipped cream ; serve in small dishes, sprinkle thickly
with chopped nuts, and accompany with sugar and thick
cream.
Angel Custard
Heat a quart of milk in the double boiler and then
pour it slowly on the stiffly whipped whites of four eggs ;
sweeten the custard with two scant tablespoonfuls of
pulverized sugar, flavoring with a drop or two of almond
extract and one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn into small
custard cups; set the cups in a pan of hot water and
258 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
cook in a moderate oven, until firm ; then cover the tops
with grated macaroon crumbs.
Pear Condet
Cook one-third cupful of washed rice in milk until
rice is tender. Add two eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar,
one-third teaspoonful salt. Turn on to a serving dish,
and on it arrange halves of canned pears, which have been
cooked in the syrup. Sprinkle rice and pears with finely
cut preserved ginger.
Banana Compote
Make a syrup by boiling together one cupful of sugar
and two-thirds of a cupful of water ten minutes. Add
grated rind and juice of half a lemon, one-fourth tea-
spoonful of vanilla, and let stand until perfectly cold.
Pour over four bananas halved and quartered. When
thoroughly chilled, sprinkle with finely chopped nuts, and
serve with beaten cream.
Maple Cup Custards
Beat three eggs slightly, add a pinch of salt, and three
tablespoonfuls of scraped maple sugar. Pour over all
three cupfuls of hot milk with one-fourth cupful of
thick cream. Of course the latter may be omitted, if
liked. Fill the custard into wetted custard cups, place
these in a dish of hot water, and bake in a very slow oven
until the custard is set.
Grape Juice Souffle
To one pint of grape juice, add two tablespoonfuls of
granulated gelatine, and heat until gelatine is dissolved.
Strawberry Compote.
Recipe on Page
Orange Surprise.
Recipe on Page 260.
( hon.r I\ish'\'.
Recipe on Page
Strawberr\ Charlotte.
Recipe on Page _?SQ.
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 259
Strain and cool. When mixture begins to stiffen, beat
in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs, and fold in one
cupful of stiffly beaten cream. Turn into molds and
chill.
Jellied Prunes
Cook one-third pound of prunes until soft; remove
stones, and cut meat in pieces. Soak one-half box of
gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water, and add to one
pint of the syrup in which prunes were cooked. Add one
cupful of sugar, one-fourth cupful of lemon juice, and
the prunes. Mold and chill. Serve with plain or whipped
cream.
Strawberry Charlotte
Mash one box of prime berries through a colander,
add two-thirds of a cupful of powdered sugar, and stir
until it is dissolved. Soak a half-box of granulated
gelatine in a half-cupful of cold water for thirty min-
utes, then melt it over hot water. Add the strawberry
juice, and stir continually until the mixture begins to
thicken, then fold in a pint of cream whipped. Pour into
a mold, and stand on ice to harden. Serve plain.
Strawberry Compote
Boil one cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of lemon
juice, and a half-cupful of water together until they spin
a thread. Pour, while hot, over one box of hulled berries.
Heap one cupful of boiled rice in the platter, pour the
hot berries over it, and serve either plain or with cream
or milk.
26o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Raspberry Jelly
Over a small box of raspberries sprinkle a cup and a
half of powdered sugar, and allow to stand until sugar is
melted. Crush through a colander — there should be a
pint of juice, but if not, add enough water to make a
pint of liquid. Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of gelatine
in a cup of warm water, and stir into the fruit juice, put-
ting into the refrigerator to harden. \Yhen serving,
place cubes of the gelatine in a tall glass, with a layer of
whipped cream between and on top of layers of the
jelly. This is much improved by pouiing the juice of
more raspberries over the whole.
Gooseberry Amber
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan ; when
melted add one and a half pounds of gooseberries, three
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of one
lemon. Let stew slowly until soft, then rub through a
sieve. Beat in the yolks of three eggs, and add half a
teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Line a pudding dish
with good pa-try. Cut out ><>me of the pastry into small
fancy rounds, brush the edge of the pastry with a little
water, arrange the rounds of pa>try on it. overlapping
each other. Put the gooseberry mixture into the dish
and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Cover with
a meringue and brown slowly.
Orange Surprise
Cut oranges in halves. Remove juice and pulp, leav-
ing the skins in good condition. For a pint of juice,
soften half a package of gelatine in one-half cupful of
JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 261
cold water, and dissolve it in one-half cupful of boiling
water. Add one cupful of sugar and the juice of half a
lemon. Add orange juice and strain. Mold the jelly in
teacups wet with cold water. Fill to the height required
to fill the orange skins. Decorate jelly with almonds,
candied cherries, and cooked sultana raisins. When
ready to serve, remove from cups to skins. Cover with
meringue and brown delicately in a very hot oven.
262 MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS
MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 263
264 MORE IV AYS OF MAKING DESSERTS
SALADS
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
HE salad has almost the same relation to the
last part of the dinner that the soup has to
the first. In other words, the salad should
not be so much a food as a condiment. While
this is true of many salads, it is quite untrue
of some others. The ideal dinner salad is
lettuce, romaine, endive or water cress with
or without tomato. The lobster, potato, and chicken
salads are, however, concentrated foods. They are very
properly served as the chief item at a stand-up function,
or the principal supper or luncheon dish, but are not at
all suited for bringing a substantial dinner to a close. I
say advisedly " to a close," because too often the dessert
merely adds a heavy, indigestible sweet to the menu,
tempting the diner to eat when he has already had
enough, and it would be well to stop the dinner with
the salad, or content one's self with a little fruit or a
few ' nuts. Lettuce and tomatoes are composed chiefly
of water. The oil in the salad dressing is nutritious, of
course, furnishing an abundant supply of heat and
energy, but comparatively little of it is used, and even
including this, a salad cannot be regarded as a very sub-
stantial addendum to the meal..
Vegetable salads should be well washed to remove
any adhering dust or dirt, as "well as to be certain that
no harmful germs are retained upon them. It is true
265
266 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
that mere washing will not remove harmful germs, but
they are not so often attached to the lettuce or to the
tomato as they are to the dust and dirt which may adhere-
to them. A thorough washing of these materials, there-
fore, before the preparation of the salad is a sanitary
measure of great importance.
The use of the salad among American families should
be encouraged. It is too infrequently found on our
tables, especially among farmers, who grow abundant
salad materials in the garden. The attractive recipes
which follow will do much, I am sure, to earn for the
salad the increased popularity that it deserves.
Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad.
Recipe on Page 267.
Cucumbers and Cress.
A Spring Salad Crisp and Appetizing.
Tomatoes and /:m//rv Salad Garnished Kith Capers.
Serve a French Pressing Kith this.
Pond Lily Salad.
Recipe on Page 274.
A CHAPTER OF SALADS
Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad
Cook one and one-half cupfuls of chicken stock or
water with one finely chopped onion, one chopped red
pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful
of Worcestershire. Cook three eggs until hard, and cool.
Soak, in enough cold water to cover, two tablespoonfuls
of gelatine. Add the hot stock to the gelatine, and when
thoroughly dissolved pour into an oblong wetted mold
to the depth of one-half an inch. Set on ice until stiff-
ened. Then arrange slices of the hard cooked egg on
the jelly. Finally add the remainder of the eggs cut in
slices and two cupfuls of diced chicken meat to the hot
stock, and pour all into the mold. Chill and serve in
slices with salad dressing, either with or without lettuce.
Stuffed Egg Salad
Boil four eggs until hard, and after shelling, cut length-
wise into halves ; remove the yolks and beat to a paste,
adding a tablespoonful of chili sauce, two tablespoonfuls
of minced chicken, and a teaspoonful of melted butter;
when blended fill into the egg whites, and arrange on a
bed of crisp heart lettuce leaves, pouring over a thick
boiled dressing and garnishing with capers and slices of
pickled beets.
267
268 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Roast Beef Salad
A very rare piece of roast beef is excellent for the
salad. Cut in very thin pieces, and marinate in a French
dressing to which a slice of onion finely chopped has been
added. Serve on a platter garnished with potato salad,
pickled beets, and lettuce.
Note: Any cold left-over vegetables may be mari-
nated, and used as a garnish.
Dandelions with Bacon
A (ierman salad is made as follows: Chop some tender
young dandelion leaves in a bowl and in the meantime
place some strips of bacon to fry out in a pan. When
this is crisp add a cupful of vinegar, salt and pepper to
taste, and two beaten eggs. Heat this and pour it over
the greens. Serve with boiled-egg rings and the strips of
bacon.
Spinach Salad
Wash thoroughly and boil a half -peck of spinach. If
it is young and tender cook in its own juices, heating it.
in a saucepan, very gradually to prevent burning. Cook
twenty-five minutes or until tender. Old spinach is bet-
ter cooked in boiling, salted water. Allow two quarts of
water to one peck of spinach. When tender drain the
spinach and chop it with six hard cooked eggs. Add
one cupful of toasted bread crumbs and one-half cupful
of minced boiled ham, if liked. Pack in small cups or
molds. Chill on ice and when ready to serve surround
A CHAPTER OF SALADS 269
each mold on the serving plate with olives, and dress
with mayonnaise.
Red Pepper Salad
Mix one-half can of pimientos or sweet peppers with
one cream cheese. Beat into the mixture sufficient
mayonnaise to soften it slightly and add a few drops of
onion juice, more if a decided onion flavor is liked.
Pack in a mold, chill on ice, and when ready to serve,
cut in slices, and place on crisp lettuce leaves. This
makes a good luncheon salad.
Cucumber Jelly Salad
Peel two cucumbers and cut in slices, add one slice of
onion, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper.
Simmer until cucumbers are tender in one pint of water.
Add one tablespoonful of gelatine, dissolved in warm
w^ater. Line a mold with slices of fresh cucumber cut
very thin, and pour in the jelly slowly. Set in the ice
box to chill. Turn out on a bed of lettuce heart leaves
and serve with French dressing, which has been mixed
with a piece of ice until it is nearly as thick as mayon-
naise.
Potato and Tomato Salad
Cut four cold boiled potatoes into cubes ; and two
tomatoes into eighths. Thoroughly mix the potatoes
with three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful of
vinegar, one tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar, salt, and
pepper to taste, and one tablespoonful of finely cut chives.
•r
270 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Mound in the center of a platter, surround with the
sections of tomatoes, and a border of lettuce leaves.
Okra Salad
Cut the little buttons from the ends of the fresh okras,
then wash them and put them in a pot and cover them
well with boiling water. Let them boil vigorously for
twenty minutes, then take them off the stove, strain them,
and put them in the ice box. Serve with French dressing.
Beet and Pepper Salad
Thinly slice four small boiled beets. Remove the
seeds from and parboil two green peppers five minutes.
then cut in strips. When very cold, serve in nests of
lettuce with a French dressing made as follows: Mix
together four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one tablespoon-
ful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, one
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika,
one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and, if liked, one tea-
spoonful of finely chopped onion or shallots.
Tomato Jelly Salad
Turn into saucepan the contents of a can of tomatoes,
adding a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of brown sugar, a
pinch each of allspice and ground nutmeg, half a chopped
onion, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne
pepper; simmer slowly, pouring in a little cold water if it
becomes too thick, and strain through a puree sieve, stir-
ring into each pint of liquid a tablespoonful of gelatine
that has been dissolved in half a cupful of hot water;
turn into small ring molds, and when cold and firm,
A CHAPTER OF SALADS 271
mold in nests of crisp lettuce leaves, filling the center
with a mayonnaise of celery ; garnish with tiny stuffed
olives and small capers.
Cabbage Salad
Select a well-shaped, crisp head of cabbage. Remove
the coarse outer leaves, take out the heart of the cab-
bage, and cut the edges into points. Chop the removed
cabbage finely, discarding all coarse stalks or ribs. Sea-
son with salt, pepper, and equal measures of salted
whipped cream and mayonnaise dressing, and mix to-
gether thoroughly. Fill the open space in the cabbage
with this mixture, and decorate with finely chopped beets.
Garnish with parsley. Crisp the cabbage before cutting
by letting it stand an hour or more, head downward, in
very cold water.
Waldorf Salad
Chop rather finely four tart apples (squeezing over a
little lemon juice), add two cupfuls of chopped white
celery, and one cupful of mixed nut meats ; toss the in-
gredients lightly together, blending in a large cupful of
mayonnaise dressing, and arrange in individual portions
in nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with grated egg yolks
and tiny pink radishes. A cream dressing can also be
used here.
Cleveland Salad
Four cupfuls of boiling water, three lemons, one pack-
age of gelatine, four cucumbers, and one-quarter of a
can of pimientos, salt to taste, and paprika as desired.
777/i PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Make a hot unsweetened lemonade, add a pinch of .salt
and paprika. Dissolve the gelatine in a cupful of water.
When it is dissolved, mix it with the lemonade. Slice
the cucumbers very thin and add the peppers, put both in
a lar^e mold, and pour the lemon gelatine over all. Set
in the refrigerator oxer ni^lil. Serve with mayonnaise
on a hed of lettuce.
Pineapple Salad
C'ut into strip> three slices of Hawaiian pineapple and
one canned red pepper. I'lace on ice until time of serv-
ing, then place on heart leaves of lettuce, and partially
cover \\ith cream mayonnaise, made as follows: Heat
until stiff one half cup heavy cream, and add three table-
spoonfnls of inavonnaise dre-Miii,r. ami season with salt
and paprika. If the maxonnaise has separated from
standing, it will hecome -niooth when added to the
cream.
Hawaiian Salad
Clio.i.se any brand of Hawaiian pineapple and drain
the slices carefully. Place one slice on each serving platv.
which already holds the blanched leaves from lettuce
hearts. In the center of the pineapple place a -mall ball
of l\o(|iiefort cheese \\ltich has been softened until it can
be molded with a little cream or milk. Add a few
broken nuts, or omit these, if preferred. And, of course.
a mild-flavored cheese mav be u-cd, but the Roquefort
cheese is peculiailv happv. Dress with a brcnch dress-
ing, to which are added two tablespoonfuls of stiflly beaten
cream.
A CHAPTER OP SALADS 273
Grape Salad
From one cup of Malaga or any oilier large grapes,
remove the >ecds, and fill the cavity with finely chopped
or ground nuts — walnut> preferred. Chop one large
stalk of celery very fine and keep on the ice or in some
cool place until ready to serve. A little while before
serving, mix the grapes and celery together with a
mayonnaise or cooked dressing to which two tablespoon-
fuls of cream have been added. Serve on chicory that
has been kept on ice until it is firm and crisp. If chicory
cannot be had, shred curly cabbage or lettuce. Either the
feathery chicory, shredded lettuce, or curly cabbage gives
the appearance of grass under the tent. The tents are
made of cheese-sticks in the following manner:
One and one-half cupfuls of flour, a little salt, one-
half teaspoonful of baking powder, one-quarter of a cup-
ful of shortening; mix with ice-cold water; roll out very
thin and spread with grated cheese ; fold and roll again ;
cut into oblong pieces about four by six inches; then
with the back of a silver knife mark dough into strips
half an inch wide, but do not cut clear through; sprinkle
again with grated cheese, and bake in a hot oven ; when
done, cut through the center crosswise and bend in the
shape of a ' Y tent; on top stick the miniature Yalley
Forge flag ; place the tent over the salad as in the picture.
The tent may be eaten with the salad.
Cherry Salad
Ripe red cherries, one head of lettuce, quarter of a
pound of filberts, and mayonnaise dressing. Illanch the
filberts by soaking in boiling water and rubbing off the
skins. Remove the stones from the cherries and re-
274 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
place them with the filberts. Arrange lettuce leaves in
nests, place cherries in the center, and serve with mayon-
naise dressing.
Red and White Currant and Raspberry Salad
Take one pound of white currants and one pound of
red currants, pick off their stalks. Place the red cur-
rants in the center of the dish on which the salad is to
be served ; then arrange around them alternately the
white currants and raspberries. Whip up some cream,
sweeten it and send to the table separately.
Pond Lily Salad
Remove the shells from four eggs cooked hard and
around the center of each egg, with a small, sharp knife,
cut deep a zigzag line. Separate the egg, following the
line marked, which will give the tops an uneven surface,
with scalloped or pointed edges. Wash the lettuce and
throw into cold water. When crisp, remove, and shake
out all the water. Arrange the egg, with its white edge
and yellow center, on a lettuce leaf, like a pond lily with
its pod. Garnish with small ornamentations of beet, cut
in the shape of mushrooms. Serve at once with French
dressing.
Crab Meat Salad
Use twice as much crab meat as celery. Cut vege-
table stalks into fine pieces and stir them into the may-
onnaise. Break the meat into pieces of uniform size,
heap it upon a bed of lettuce leaves, and pour the dress-
ing over the mount. Serve cold.
Hawaiian Salad.
Recipe given on Page 272.
Grape Salad in Tent.
Recipe given on Page 273.
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A CHAPTER OF SALADS 275
Sardine Salad
Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces and finely
chop enough parsley to make one-half of a teaspoonful.
Remove the skin and bones from a small box of sar-
dines, then break the fish into small pieces. Lightly toss
the celery, parsley, and fish together, and let them get
very cold before serving. Serve cold.
Oyster Salad
Small oysters are best to use for salad, as cutting the
large ones is apt to make the dish look unattractive.
Scald the bivalves in their own liquor until the edges
curl slightly. Drain them, wash to remove all pieces of
shell, and set them on the ice to chill until serving time.
To every quart of oysters allow twro large stalks of
celery cut into quarter-inch pieces. When time to serve
toss the fish and vegetables lightly together in the salad
bowl and pour over them a dressing made according to
this recipe : Beat the yolks of three eggs until they are
lemon colored, then add one level teaspoonful of salt,
half a teaspoonful each of pepper and prepared mustard,
the grated yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and, lastly, two
tablespoonfuls of olive oil poured in very slowly while
the mixture is being beaten. Beat well until smooth,
then, while stirring briskly, thin writh three tablespoon-
fuls of lemon juice. Mild vinegar can be substituted for
the lemon juice if desired. A suggestion of horseradish
and tabasco sauce is used with this combination.
Mayonnaise Dressing
Beat the yolk of one egg in a cold dish with a silver
or wooden fork. Add one cupful of oil, drop by drop,
276 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
beating thoroughly. When it begins to thicken it may
be thinned with lemon juice or vinegar, using two tea-
spoonfuls in all. When all the oil and vinegar is mixed,
the seasonings may be quickly and thoroughly beaten in.
Use one-half teaspoonful each of salt and mustard, and
a dash of red pepper. It is usually the salt which causes
the mayonnaise to separate. This same mayonnaise may
be mixed very quickly with a Dover egg-beater, but none
of the quickly-made dressings will last without separat-
ing, as will those made by the slower drop by drop
method.
Chiffonade Dressing
This is extremely good to serve on lettuce, romaine,
or any green salad. Into a glass jar put one hard-
boiled egg, finely chopped, one teaspoonful of finely cut
chives, one tablespoonful each of chopped red and green
pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful
of paprika, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, one-
half cupful of olive oil, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
and one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. Allow it to
become very cold, and just before serving shake the
contents of the jar thoroughly.
Chili Dressing
Mix together six tablespoonfuls olive nil. two table-
spoonfuls vinegar, one teaspoonful Tarragon vinegar, one
teaspoonful finely chopped onion, one-half teaspoonful
salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, one-fourth teaspoon-
ful paprika, and two tablespoonfuls chili sauce. Let
stand several hours, shake well,' and serve on the salad.
A CHAPTER OF SALADS 277
Roquefort Cheese Dressing
Mix together half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of
teaspoonful of white pepper, six tablespoonfuls of olive
oil, and when well mixed add two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar or lemon juice. Beat all together until an
emulsion is formed. Add to this an eighth of a pound
of Roquefort cheese, crushed fine, and a little chopped
pimiento. Serve on lettuce, chicory, or endive.
Roquefort Sandwiches
Cream one-half cupful of butter, and add one-fourth
pound of ripe Roquefort cheese; mix until smooth;
season with one-half teaspoonful of paprika, one-half
clove of garlic (finely chopped), and salt to taste.
Moisten with a little cream to make of right consistency
to spread. Put between very thin slices of brown bread,
or entire wheat bread. Cut into small shapes, and serve
with the salad.
278 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SALADS
MORE IV AYS OF MAKIXG SALADS 279
280 MORE WAYS OP MAKIXG SALADS
POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
HE function of the potato and other vege-
tables is two-fold. The potato is hardly a
succulent vegetable, but green corn, green
peas, green beans, radishes, tomatoes, and
similar articles of diet are composed chiefly
of water. The potato itself has about seventy-
five per cent, of water, while a radish has
close to ninety-five per cent. In other words, a succulent
vegetable like the radish is not much more than solidified
water. It seems strange that a body containing ninety-
five per cent, of water can be as firm and hard as a
radish. It shows that the distribution of the materials
forming the cells in which the water is contained is most
advantageously made. The potato is, of course, a
nourishing vegetable. It is composed largely of starch,
although it has some protein and mineral matters of
value, but it is essentially a starchy food. Its chief value
as a food product lies in this fact. It is, therefore, a
vegetable which is admirably adapted to supplementing a
meat, fish, or poultry diet. The desire to eat potatoes
with meat is not solely a function of taste. It is also a
function of nutrition. I have said that meats, including
poultry and fish, are not a balanced diet. They become
so, however, when eaten with potatoes.
The sanitary properties of the potato are well known.
281
282 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Plenty of potatoes will prevent scurvy in long voyages.
In this the potato is not superior to other vegetables, but
it can be better preserved and carried longer distances
than most other-. Peas and beans in the green state
are more succulent than the potatoes and they also have
quite a different chemical composition, the nitrogenous
elements being dominant. A diet composed largely of
these vegetables is, therefore, one which approaches the
character of a meat diet. Nevertheless, it should not
be forgotten that although peas and beans contain large
quantities of nitrogen they are still very well balanced,
as in a green state they carried both starch and sugar
and digestible cellulose.
The succulent vegetables have a distinct function in
nutrition because of their salutary influence upon the
digestive functions. \\ ith raw fruits, succulent vege-
tables exert a most favorable influence on peristalsis
and secure regular and proper movements of the bowels.
Thus they not only minister to the taste and afford valu-
able nutrients, but they also have what may be called a
regulating or medicinal effect upon digestion. The po-
tato being largely starch should I.-- avoided in cases of
a tendency to obesity. My the average person, or es-
pecially by thin people, they are, on the contrary, to be
eaten with freedom and benefit. Fortunately, the ad-
vance in methods nf preservation has rendered it pos-
sible to have succulent vegetable> at all seasons of the
year. The process of sterilizing fresh vegetables, com-
monly known as canning, extends the season from spring
to winter. The people of the country are justly having
more and more confidence in canned goods, so-called,
because of the efforts of the canners themselves through
their powerful organization to improve the quality of
the materials used and the processes of preservation.
POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES 283
The use of artificial coloring matters and preservatives
in goods of this kind has practically ceased, and the
prejudice which has so long existed against them may
well be laid aside. In the diet of man a generous por-
tion of succulent vegetables finds a fitting place.
JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES
HE best way to cook potatoes is to bake them
in their jackets in an oven of 450 degrees
to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. This seems like
a high temperature, but the potato inside
does not get hotter than 212 degrees, and
cooks by steam thoroughly. When the potato
is taken out of the oven it must be pricked
or broken at once, to permit the escape of the steam
which has been generated in the cooking process, and
which if not given egress, will condense into water and
make the potato soggy and quite indigestible. If it is
pricked with a fork it is best to warm the prongs for a
few seconds before using in the first potato, to prevent,
as much as possible, any condensation resulting from the
hot steam coming into contact with the cold metal of
the fork. It is easy to see that in this process there is
no chance for loss and that if the potato is scraped out
well from the skin (where lie many of the potash salts),
pretty full potato value is secured. Never cut open a
baked potato ; always break it or it will be not mealy, but
soggy, and barely fit to eat.
The next best method — in point of economy — is to cook
by steaming. Although the baking is a partial steaming
process the actual steaming in the jackets not only
renders the potato deliciously palatable, but the subsequent
removal of the skins, before eating, if done carefully,
does not carry away much of the valuable mineral salts.
Steaming takes a little longer, but it is a good method
285
286 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
of cooking, ensuring little waste not only with potatoes,
but with all vegetables.
The process of boiling brings with it the question
of boiling in the jackets, boiling without the jackets,
the use of salt in the water, and the tempera-
ture at which to start the potatoes. The most ap-
proved method is that of boiling the potato in the
jacket and of beginning the process with hot water.
This takes less time, and preserves the flavor. Potatoes
boiled without their jackets lose, of course, a great part
of their mineral salts and tissue-making material, and
they lose also much of the flavor which is imparted to
them from the layer cut off in paring. If salt be added
after fifteen minutes, when the potatoes are about half
cooked, this may save some of the mineral matter and
add a little to the flavor of the potatoes.
Because potatoes are so lacking in fat, proteid, and
mineral matter, it has become an invariable rule, con-
sciously or unconsciously, to eat them with meats, and
to prepare them so as to introduce the food constituents
they lack. Thus creamed potatoes and potato au gratin
introduce fat and proteid, and make pretty well-propor-
tioned dishes, though, of course, on account of the super-
abundance of starch, such dishes are not adapted to
steady diet. Undoubtedly, like any other article of food
the potato must be prepared attractively. It must not
only look well, but must have a pleasant aroma.
Boiled Potatoes
Scrub the potatoes, scrape them if desired, and put in
hot water. Boil until tender. If the potatoes are old
and have become dry by evaporation it is sometimes
Potatoes, French Fried.
Recipe given on Page 287.
Stuffed Eggplant.
Recipe given on Page 335.
Apples and Sweet Potatoes.
Recipe ^ii'cn on Paae
^
A Christmas Garnish for the Mashed Potatoes.
Holly Leaves are cut from Green and the Berries from
Red Peppers.
JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 287
wise to soak them for a little while in cold water, or to
start them over the fire in cold water. Drain until dry,
dust with salt, and cover with a thick cloth until ready
to serve ; then serve with garnish of parsley.
Baked Potatoes
Scrub with a vegetable brush, put into hot oven (500
degrees Fahrenheit), and let cook until thoroughly soft,
(forty-five minutes, or longer if the potatoes are large).
Turn the potatoes occasionally to insure their baking
evenly. Upon removal from the oven, break the skins
at once or thoroughly prick with a warm fork prong to
permit the escape of steam. Then wrap loosely in a
napkin and slip potatoes and napkin into a dish, and serve.
Potato, French Fried
Scrape three or four potatoes, wash them thoroughly,
and then cut into strips ; wash them after they are cut,
and dry thoroughly in a cloth. Have ready a pan of
very hot clarified fat ; put the potatoes into a f rying-
basket, plunge into the fat, and fry the potatoes until
they are brown and crisp. When done, drain, sprinkle
with salt, and serve on a folded napkin. This is sufficient
for five persons.
Savory Potatoes
Six or eight potatoes, two small onions, one table-
spoonful of finely chopped parsley, one heaping teaspoon-
ful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth tea-
288 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
spoonful of white pepper, half a cupful of milk, half-cup-
ful of water, three heaping tablespoonfuls grated cheese.
Put the butter in bottom of saucepan. Pare the potatoes
thinly, chop onions and parsley, mix salt and pepper to-
gether on a saucer. Cut the potatoes into slices and put
a layer in the saucepan. Sprinkle in a little seasoning,
then onion and parsley. Begin again with the potatoes
and alternate. \Yhen all are used pour in the water.
Cover closely and cook gently for twenty minutes. Now
pour in the milk and allow it to cook for another fifteen
minutes. Lift the potatoes carefully on a flat dish, and
strew the grated cheese over them and brown in the
oven. This dish may be cooked in a casserole.
Stuffed Potatoes
Bake the potatoes, and when they are done, take out
of the oven, cut them in halves, and scoop the potatoes
out of their jackets. Mash them until they are smooth
with milk, butter, paprika, and salt. Put them back
again into their jackets, and put them in the oven for a
few minutes to heat and brown on the top.
Anna Potatoes
Cut about eight cold cooked potatoes into thin round
slices, place them in a dish, sprinkle over them two table-
spoonfuls of grated Parmesan or American cheese and
two tablespoonfuls of fresh bread crumbs; spread well
over them a piece of butter about the size of a nut, then
place the dish in the oven. After ten minutes, when a
golden brown, serve. This can be made in as many
layers as desired. Paprika, if desired, adds flavor to this.
JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 289
Nut-Filled Potatoes
Bake until soft and mealy six good-sized potatoes,
prick to let off steam, and then cut directly in halves
where they were pricked, and with a sharp spoon remove
the pulp from the skins, turning into a warmed mixing-
bowl ; mash thoroughly, adding a small cupful of rich
milk or cream, salt and paprika to taste, one tablespoon-
ful of minced parsley, one tablespoonful of melted butter,
a pinch of poultry seasoning, and a small cupful of nut
meats that have been passed through the meat chopper ;
beat with a fork until very light and creamy and return to
shells, which, after dusting, with browned bread crumbs,
are placed in a hot oven for ten minutes to crisp and
brown ; serve garnished with small bunches of parsley.
Stuffed Potatoes with Cheese
Bake until soft five or six medium-sized potatoes, and
with a sharp knife cut directly in halves, carefully re-
moving the cooked potatoes into a mixing bowl ; now7
mash with a potato masher, and, when free from lumps,
add a teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of minced
parsley, half a cupful of rich milk, one small cupful of
grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste ; beat with a
fork until light and creamy and heap into the potato
skins, dusting the tops with grated cheese, and return
to the oven until crisp and brown on top. Serve' very
hot.
Chantilly Potatoes
Prepare some nicely seasoned, light, mashed potatoes,
and mound on a platter. Beat one-half cupful of cream
290 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
until stiff, add one-half cupful of soft cheese, grated and
seasoned with salt and paprika. Pile lightly onto the
potato and set on the top grate of the oven until the sur-
face is nicely browned. Be sure that the oven is very
hot.
Molded Potatoes
Press left-over mashed potatoes into baking-powder
cans and chill. Slice in neat rounds, lay on a buttered
dripping-pan in the oven, and bake till they become puffy
and a delicate brown. Serve with broiled steak as a
garnish.
Potato Puff
Add to two cupfuls of hot mashed potatoes, two table-
spoonfuls of butter, two \\ell-beaten eggs, one-half cup-
ful of milk, salt and pepper to taste. Put in a deep
buttered baking-dish, and bake about twenty minutes in
hot oven.
Potatoes Rissolees
New potatoes, or old ones which arc cut down to the
size of new ones, may be treated as follows : Fry in deep
fat until a golden brown, sprinkle with salt, and place
in a pan; set in the oven until the potatoes are soft
throughout. They may be served with or without a
cream sauce.
Potato Puffs
Season two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes with salt,
pepper, celery salt, and chopped parsley. Add the beaten
JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 291
yolk of one egg and sufficient flour to make it of the con-
sistency to roll on a well-floured board. It should be
one-half inch thick. Cut in circles four inches in diam-
eter; place one tablespoonful or more of well-seasoned,
chopped cold meat, moistened slightly with gravy or
stock, upon one-half of each, moisten edges with cold
water, fold, press together, and fry in deep fat. Serve
hot.
Mint Potatoes
Wash small potatoes and rub off the skins with a
coarse towel, or pare and scrape them. Put into boiling
water with sprigs of mint sufficient to flavor them well;
and cook until done, drain, and serve with drawn butter.
Mashed White Potatoes and Turnips
Prepare as mashed potatoes, adding an equal quantity
of boiled and mashed turnips. Add three tablespoonfuls
of butter to each pint of potato and turnip, with salt
and pepper to taste.
Fried Potatoes with Spanish Sauce
Chop fine some cold boiled potatoes. Season and
saute in hot fat until golden brown. Fold over like an
omelet, slip on a platter, and pour over the potatoes the
following sauce : Boil together for ten minutes, one-half
can of tomatoes, one-half can of shredded pimientoes,
and one-half can of button mushrooms. Season with
salt, butter, and paprika or pepper. Thicken with two
tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a cream with two table-
spoonfuls of butter. Add to the sauce, cook until
292 THE PURE FOOD COOK fiOOK
smoothly thickened, stirring all the time. If liked, a
little chopped onion may be used as an additional sea-
soning.
Potato Chowder
Cut a slice of pork into small dice, fry to a light brown
in a soup kettle. Then add three medium-sized potatoes
and one onion, put through the meat chopper, or slice in
small bits. Add pepper and salt and dredge over a little
flour, cover with water and simmer until the vegetables
are tender. Then add a pint and a half of hot milk. Let
it all come to a boil, add a small piece of butter, and
serve with toasted crackers. A tomato cut in small dice,
or a little left-over stewed tomatoes, may be added.
Scalloped Sweet Potatoes
Boil the potatoes without peeling until half done.
Scrape off the skins while they are hot and leave them
to get cold. Then cut into slices almost half an inch
thick, and arrange in a buttered baking-dish, scattering
bits of butter and a little sugar (a teaspoonful to the
layer) between them. \Yhcn the dish is filled in this
order, pour in a cupful of boiling water in which a table-
spoonful of butter has been melted. Cover with bread
crumbs — dry and fine — dot these with butter, and sprin-
kle with salt and pepper. Cook, closely covered, for
half an hour until brown. This is a Southern recipe and
the product is delicious.
A Dixie Potato Pie
To half a pint of fresh milk, add one cupful of sweet
potatoes, well mashed, with one tablespoonful of butter,
JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 293
and one-eighth cupful of cream, or milk. Beat until this
is light and creamy. Into this mixture beat very lightly
the yolks of four eggs ; add nutmeg and sugar to taste
and the grated rind of one lemon or one small orange.
A white meringue may be added to the top if desired.
Browned Sweet Potatoes
Select potatoes of uniform size, and pare; place in a
frying-pan, and add water to a depth of about one-half
inch. Add one tablespoonful of butter or other shorten-
ing, and one tablespoonful of brown or white sugar.
Cover and let boil furiously. The water will soon dis-
appear as steam, and the potatoes will brown in the
syrup that remains, which forms a delicious crust, keep-
ing in the steam and flavor.
Apples and Sweet Potatoes
Peeled, sliced apples, and sweet potatoes (the potatoes
are previously boiled, peeled, and sliced), arranged in
alternate rows, are very good served with roast loin of
pork or chops. Butter a shallow casserole, and lay
enough butter over the potatoes and apples to moisten
the whole. Serve in the dish in which they were baked.
Add sugar if the apples are very tart.
t
Sweet Potato Waffles
To one cupful of mashed sweet potatoes add one cup-
ful of flour, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one cupful of
milk, one-half cupful of melted butter, and two eggs, the
whites and yolks beaten separately. Cook on a waffle-
iron.
294 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES
MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES 295
296 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES
JUST HOW TO MAKE JELLIES AND
PRESERVES
OUSEKEEPERS have always found diffi-
culty in making certain fruit juices "jell" —
some, such as those of the ordinary summer
strawberry, raspberry, and other oversweet
or overripe fruits, because they lack sufficient
acid, and others, such as the juices from
rhubarb, pineapple, and orange, which have
sufficient acid, because they have not enough pectin, the
jelly-making property of fruits. Recently, however, it
was discovered at the University of Illinois, through ex-
periments following those of Alice Dyar Russell with
sweet fruits, that the lack of acid can be offset with
tartaric acid. With this addition, perfect jelly can be
made from even ripe blueberries ; and Miss Goldthwaite,
also of the University of Illinois, discovered further that
by using the inner white rind of the orange, together
with a certain proportion of its juice, rhubarb, the de-
spair of generations of jelly-makers, can be supplied
with pectin, and made to ' jell."
Valuable as is this latter discovery, it still cannot
greatly help the women of those regions where the
orange, either from lack of regular supply or because of
its expense, is not yet a *' stand-by." It is particularly
to these women that the latest discovery concerning the
citron-melon will mean much ; for it has been found that
the enormous proportion of pectin which it contains may
297
298 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
be practically applied in "jelling' a number of fruits
that contain little pectin of their own.
Unfortunately, the citron-melon is but little cultivated
to-day. Although it can be found in many parts of the
country, it usually appears only as a " volunteer," the re-
sult of plantings of many years ago. Yet before the in-
troduction of the now familiar commercial or real citron
—a candied citrus product — the citron-melon was so
universally employed for the same purposes, for which
the commercial citron is now used, that some recipes and
writers still mention the common market melon of to-day
as " citron " or " the citron." Such confused usage
might be accepted as a quaint and harmless reminder of
the past, were it not for this recent discovery which
makes the old-time garden product of new interest and
value to every woman who makes jelly. For the citron-
melon still possesses those qualities that once made it
esteemed — qualities capable of solving what have usually
been the home jelly-maker's greatest problem. Further-
more, these melons can be so easily and inexpensively
grown that there is no reason why, once she knows of
them, every woman should not be able to avail herself
of their advantages.
Although this pectin attribute which it contains has
not been unknown to scientists at large, it was made to
serve no practical purpose in the home until Mr. and
Mrs. Theodore Mead, of Lake Charm, Oviedo, Florida,
began experiments with guava jelly.
Because of its peculiar character, the ordinary guava
usually, upon first acquaintance, proves a stumbling-
block in jelly-making, even to skilled and careful house-
wives; and when Mr. and Mrs. Mead first came to
Florida, though Mrs. Mead brought an unusual amount
of brain-power to bear upon the guava, even she was
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 299
balked by its refusal to <l jell." Mr. Mead — a graduate
of both the regular and agricultural courses at Cornell,
by instinct and training a chemist, and also specially in-
terested, as a practical pomologist, in all Florida fruits-
suggested adding to the guava some pulp from citron-
melons, which were then plentiful in their grove. Mrs.
Mead did this, and immediately the stubborn juice
' jelled." But as her experience grew and she learned
to overcome the obstinacy of the guava, she preferred to
use only its pulp and juice, and she did not carry out
further experiments with the citron-melon. Experi-
ments with it in connection with the guava and a num-
ber of other fruits have been carried on by the writer,
however, and have continued to prove its practicability
and value as " first aid " to jelly-makers.
Rhubarb Jelly
Rhubarb is almost unknown in Florida, where the ex-
periments were made, yet two or three trials with it
proved satisfactory — equal amounts of citron-melon and
rhubarb were cut into small cubes, and for each two
quarts one half-pint of water was added at first and later
a scant pint. Very little additional water is ever needed
with citron-melon. The mixture was cooked very slowly,
with frequent stirring and mashing, until it formed a
soft pulp, resembling thick rhubarb sauce. It was then
drained for twenty-four hours, measured, boiled for fif-
teen minutes — being skimmed meantime. Then an equal
measure of sugar wras added. Fifteen minutes was al-
lowed for boiling — skimming again — and then, having
' jelled," it was poured into glasses. With the next ex-
periment, one quart each of rhubarb, melon, and water
300 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
were used, cooked — not so thick as in the first experi-
ment— in a fireless cooker and drained but twelve hours.
The resulting" juice was thinner, and required longer to
"jell."
Orange Jelly
Three trials, also, were made with orange jelly com-
bined with the citron-melon, using, in small cubes, equal
measures of citron-melon pulp, and the inner, soft pulp,
and juice, of the orange. Neither white nor yellow rind
was added, and no water. This combination was brought
to a boil in the morning, then placed in a fireless cooker
till evening, when it was placed to drain till the next
morning. The strained juice was boiled till reduced one-
half — being skimmed meantime — then an equal measure
of sugar added. The jelly formed within from fifteen
to twenty minutes thereafter. The three trials showed
practically no variation. It should perhaps be added that
orange jelly had previously been made with the juice
and rind of oranges, but the result was darker and less
pleasing in flavor.
Pineapple Jelly
In experimenting with pineapple jelly, a firm pineapple
was used, which, although ripe, was not yet entirely yellow.
A small quantity was made at a time. One quart each of
diced pineapple and citron-melon and one pint of water
was brought to a boil and mashed thoroughly, then
cooked to a soft pulp in a fireless cooker. This mixture
was then strained overnight, and resulted in one pint and
a half of juice. This was boiled ten minutes, when an
JELLIES AXD PRESERVES 301
equal measure of sugar was added. It k jelled ' about
fifteen minutes later. With a very sweet, too ripe pine-
apple, a tablespoonful of lemon juice added for each pint
of strained pineapple and citron-melon juice would prob-
ably aid the flavor and shorten the process.
With both the rhubarb and orange jellies the tests
were made without the addition of any other fruit juice
or rind, but ordinarily the flavor might be better liked if
some grated yellow rind of orange or lemon were used.
In the orange-citron-melon jelly, while the flavor is ex-
cellent, it is not pronouncedly orange, and as for the
rhubarb, many people who do not care for that flavor
alone would probably like the jelly with orange or lemon
added.
Citron-melon may be preserved or pickled separately,
like watermelon, and dried or candied for use in cakes,
mincemeat, or to serve as a confection. It may also be
baked, or used as a sauce, as are apples ; in either of
these forms it makes an acceptable pie-filling — indeed,
from this fact came its old name of ' pie-melon."
Here are a few recipes for preparing citron-melon
alone :
Dried Citron for Cakes, Mincemeat, and Confections
To dry in large pieces, quarter the melon, peel off
outer rind, and remove seeds. For one medium-sized
melon, dissolve three lumps of alum, each the size of a
large pea, in two quarts of soft water, and place them
in the vessel with the melon, which should be covered
by the water. Let all come to a boil and cook till the
melon can be pierced with a straw. Drain, place in an-
other vessel with an equal measure of sugar (no water),
and boil for thirty minutes. Drain out on a buttered
302 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
sieve or plate, and let dry in a cool oven or heater. In
about five weeks it should be ready for use.
To crystallize citron-melon in smaller pieces, as a con-
fection, remove the seeds and the softer pulp near them.
Wash, drain, and drop into boiling, slightly salted water.
Cook till barely tender — it must not get too soft. Drain
thoroughly, and place in a syrup made with an equal
measure of sugar and water, cooked till moderately
thick; then when the melon is added, cook till the syrup
is " ropy," and drain the pieces out onto a buttered sieve
or plate, and set them away to dry. Grated lemon or
orange-peel or any preferred spice may be added while
the melon cooks.
Baked Citron-Melon or Sau~e
Pare off outer rind and cut into pieces about two by
three inches. Remove seeds, wash, and drain. Slice
thin one lemon, or add its juice and rind, for each pint
of melon used ; add a saltspoonful of salt and about a
half-pint of sugar — the exact amount depending on in-
dividual taste. \Yater is usually not necessary if the
sauce is cooked carefully in a double-boiler, although
in a fireless cooker or an earthen baking-dish enough
water may be added to cover the bottom of the vessel.
Cook till the mixture is clear, but not too long or the
pieces will lose their shape. For sauce, however, the
melon may be cooked longer, and mashed or sieved or
put through a colander, being then put back on the stove
to cook down somewhat, if it is too thin.
Preserved Citron-Melon
Peel and cut into pieces of shape and size preferred.
For each pint of melon allow one-fourth pint of water,
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 303
with a saltspoonful of salt. If a rich preserve is wished,
allow one pound of sugar and two sliced lemons for each
pound of citron. For a more simple preserve, allow
seven pounds of sugar to ten of melon and six (or more)
lemons. Cook slowly till clear, and seal when the mix-
ture is hot. (Citron is sometimes soaked overnight in
rather strong salt water, then drained and soaked in
clear water for two hours before draining and presev-
Citron-Melon Chips
Peel and slice the melon thin, then cut it into strips
or half-inch squares and remove the seeds. Weigh, and
allow an equal weight of sugar. Mix, and let stand
overnight in a bowl, together with three thin-sliced
lemons for each quart of chips. In the morning put the
melon and the syrup which has formed into a preserving-
kettle. Simmer — skimming meantime — till the syrup is
like honey, then seal hot. Ginger-root may be added as
well as lemon, if this is liked.
Crab Apple Jelly
Remove stems and wash fruit. Cut out all imperfect
parts and the blossom end ; divide into quarters, but do
not pare. Put into the kettle with half as much water,
by measure, as fruit. Turn into bag and drain, without
squeezing. Allow equal measures of juice and sugar.
If liked less sweet use only three-fourths sugar. Heat
the juice, boiling twenty minutes, then add hot sugar and
cook until it jellies on a cold plate.
304 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Rhubarb Jelly
Allow one part by measure of tart apples to two parts
of rhubarb and just enough water to start cooking.
When tender, drain, and proceed as in other jelly. This
is clear, tart, and especially good for jelly rolls.
Quince Jelly
A mixture of from one-third to one-half apples im-
proves quince. Rub the quinces with a coarse cloth.
For every two quarts of fruit add one of water. Sim-
mer until tender, drain without squeezing, and make into
jelly in the usual way. Take the parings and cores and
simmer in half as much water until tender. Strain and
add to the pulp left in the bag. Add three-fourths of a
pound of sugar to every pound of pulp, and cook slowly
for marmalade. Long cooking will give a beautiful pink
color.
Barberry Jelly
Use one quart of barberries and one cup of thorn apple
cooked in water enough to cover. Strain, and use a little
more than a cupful of sugar to a pint of the juice.
Pink Grape Jelly
Put the pulp of any kind of ripe grapes into the kettle,
using as little water as possible to start cooking. \Yhen
the pulp falls to pieces, drain without squeezing. Add
lemon juice varying from one to four tablespoonfuls for
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 305
three or four glasses of jelly, according to the ripeness
of the grapes. Use equal parts of sugar and the juice and,
just before it jellies, a tiny speck of vegetable pink color-
ing matter.
Purple Grape Jelly
Make exactly like pink jelly, omitting the artificial
coloring matter, but add skins. Do not squeeze the
jelly bag
Green Grape Mint Jelly
Wash the desired amount of unripe green grapes, put
them in a preserving kettle, and heat until they can be
easily crushed. Add to each pound of grapes one bunch
of fresh, well-washed mint bruised in a bowl, and cook
until the grapes are soft enough to drain. Turn this
into a jelly bag and let it drip, and then measure the
amount. Boil the juice and add for each pint one scant
pound of hot sugar and boil for twelve minutes, or until
a little of it jellies on a cold plate. Color mint green
with vegetable coloring liquid and fill glasses.
Pears with Ginger
Soak three-fourths of a pound of green ginger root
in cold water for two days. Drain and then add to one
pint of this water, five pounds of sugar, eight pounds of
firm, hard unpeeled pears, without cores, and cut into
pieces, the ginger root scraped and cut in thin slices and
the yellow peel and juice of four lemons. Cook this for
306 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
two hours, or until the fruit is transparent and the
syrup thick.
Barberry Sauce
To one quart of barberries add a pint of water and
cook one hour; then add three-fourths of a quart of
sugar, and boil fifteen minutes longer.
Barberry Preserve
Barberries may be preserved in white vinegar and
used as a garnish for meats.
Pineapple Preserved Without Cooking
Peel and cut a pineapple in small cubes and add to each
pound one and a fourth pounds of granulated sugar.
Turn this into a stone crock, stir it every day for three
days, then pack it into cold, sterilized glass jars, and seal.
Serve with ice cream or with rolls at breakfast.
Grape Conserve
A basket of grapes, one and one-half pints of sugar,
one and one-half pounds of seeded raisins, half a pound
of walnut meats. Remove pulp from grapes, boil five
minutes. Put through a colander to remove seeds and
boil. Add raisins, sugar, and nut meats chopped fine
and boil about thirty minutes until thick. This is de-
licious either with meats or plain blancmange.
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 307
Plum Conserve
Stone and chop finely ripe damson plums. To each
quart (after they are chopped) add two cupfuls of
chopped and seeded raisins, six sour oranges chopped
fine with some of the yellow peel grated, and five cupfuls
of sugar. Cook slowly until it is thick and transparent,
and turn it into glass jars.
Green Gage Jam
Wash, but do not peel, six pounds of plums, remove
the stones and to each pound of fruit add three-fourths
of a pound of sugar. Dissolve the sugar over the fire
in a very little water, a third of a cupful to each pound,
boil and skim. Add the fruit and cook it quickly until
it jellies. This is the English method of making jam.
Grape Marmalade
Pulp the grapes and cook the pulps until tender. Press
through a sieve and add to the skins, allowing three-
fourths of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Cook
slowly, but do not make it stiff.
Plum Butter
Take the large red plums that grow wild in some sec-
tions of our country and are known as " wild goose '
plums. They are delicious when raw, but are bitter and
sharp when cooked. This is on account of the seed
which "clings." Cook the plums until tender and then
put through a sieve. Mix with an equal amount of sweet
308 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
apples and cook until mashed, then add sugar to taste-
almost equal parts. Many plums are impossible when
cooked. If they are put in clear water and allowed to
heat slowly to the boiling point, this objectionable fea-
ture, which is in the skin, will be eliminated. Throw
away that water and proceed to can or preserve.
Pear and Peach Jam
Take equal quantities of peaches and pears, and to
every quart add the juice of one lemon and one orange,
and the peel of the orange. (Boil the orange peel in two
waters and drain, then cut into thin strips, and add to
the fruit.) Allow the fruit to simmer, uncovered, for
half an hour, and add a pound of sugar to every pound
of fruit. If you have ten pounds of fruit you can
safely deduct one pound of sugar, and the fruit will keep
all right. Boil slowly about ten minutes after sugar is
added, stirring often to prevent burning. Pour into
jam pots and cover with paraffin.
Pear and Cranberry Jam
Take two parts of pears and one part of cranberries,
run through a chopper and cook as above, adding the
peel of an orange to each quart of pulp.
Honeyed Gooseberries
Remove each seed from green gooseberries with a
long needle, so as to keep the fruit in perfect shape. To
each pound of fruit add half a pound of white honey.
Stir together in a jar and allow it to stand three days,
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 309
then turn into a preserving kettle and heat it slowly.
Let it simmer until the berries look clear and the juice
is thick, which will take about half an hour. Put into
small jars and seal.
Fruit Preserve (Apples, Pears, and Plums)
*
Peel and cut into small pieces the apples and pears.
Skin, stone, and cut up the plums. Use equal propor-
tions of each fruit after all are cut up. Use a pound of
sugar to each pound of fruit. Boil until of marmalade
consistency. Take from the fire and add a handful of
blanched almonds. Seal in glasses.
Euchred Plums and Pears
Nine pounds of fruit, six pounds of white sugar, two
quarts of vinegar, one ounce of cinnamon. Boil the
vinegar and spice together ; pour it over the fruit, which
has been previously placed in a large crock or bowl, and
let it stand for twenty-four hours. Pour it back over the
fruit in the bowl. Repeat the process for five mornings,
the last time boiling the fruit about fifteen minutes. Put
in canning jars and cover while hot. This recipe is good
also for peaches or prunes.
Sweet Pickled Peaches
To seven pounds of peaches allow three and three-
quarters pounds of white sugar, one quart of vinegar,
two ounces of stick cinnamon. Peel the peaches and
insert one or two cloves in each. Boil the sugar and
vinegar with several sticks of cinnamon, for five minutes,
3io THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
then put in the peaches. When the fruit is tender, re-
move it carefully from the syrup and put it in jars.
Boil the syrup, reducing it nearly half, and pour it over
the peaches in the jars.
Spiced Peaches
For six pounds of fruit use three pounds of granu-
lated sugar and one pint of vinegar. Into each peach
insert two cloves. Put into the sugar and vinegar one
ounce of stick cinnamon ( which should be in a cheese-
cloth bag), and boil. When the mixture is boiling hot
place the fruit in it and cook it until it is tender. Put it
into jars and seal at once.
Rhubarb Relish (for meat course)
Cut into small pieces one cup of pie-plant or rhubarb.
Add one-half cupful of water, one and one-half cnpfuls
of sugar, the pulp and sliced rind of a lemon and an
orange, one-half package each of seeded raisins and cur-
rants. Cook all over a slow fire. Seal in glasses when
thick.
MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 311
/£ rJE
UNG JELLIE .
314 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERrES
MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES 315
3i6 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES
N the cooking of vegetables nutritive value
and digestibility need not be sacrificed when
a method is used which secures the best
flavor and a palatable result. First one
should understand that the framework of
vegetables, known as cellulose, and the starch
which most contain, are almost impossible of
digestion in their raw state. These must be softened and
changed by cooking, or the vegetable remains incapable
of nourishment.
Take an unripe apple. We have been warned against
them ever since we made our first furtive trial upon for-
bidden fruit. The green apple is hard and woody be-
cause of its cellulose framework. Then nature sets to
work, and aided by the heat of the sun, forms the acids
in the fruit, and the hard, cellulose framework in part
breaks down and dissolves. The same process takes
place when cabbage is changed into sauerkraut.
In general, vegetables need long, slow cooking, and the
drier, the more compact they are, the longer cooking
and more moisture they need.
Boiled Asparagus
All green vegetables, roots, and tubers should be crisp
and firm and thoroughly clean when put on to cook.
317
318 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
With asparagus, cut off the woody part and wash well.
If this is to be cooked in the casserole, lay it in with
heads all in one direction, and half cover with boiling
water. Cover the casserole and place in an oven suffi-
ciently hot so the water will simmer. Cook until the
asparagus is tender, a matter of from twenty to forty
minutes, depending upon the tenderness and freshness
of the vegetable. Serve on toa>t with or without a thin
cream sauce; or the juice in which the asparagus has
been cooked may be cooked down, a little cream added,
seasoned, and poured over the asparagus. The water
should not be thrown away, for valuable salts and much
flavor arc held in it. and it may be used for soup. The
asparagus may be cut into short pieces if desired. One
bunch will serve four.
Spinach
Spinach has comparatively little food value, but it is
valuable in other ways. It is a most abused vegetable
in cooking. It is not difficult, but take> much time and
water and patience to prepare, for every leaf must be
scrupulously clean if it is to be eaten with delight. To
clean the spinach, cut off the roots, break each leaf apart,
and drop them into a large pan of cold water. Rinse and
put in another pan, letting fresh water run over them.
Continue doing this until there is not a trace of sand or
dirt in the pan. Drain and put the spinach in a large
kettle, adding for a half-peck of spinach about half a
cupful of water. Cover carefully and boil ten minutes.
Pour into a colander to drain. Pour cold water
over it and let it thoroughly drain. Chop fine and
reheat in milk, cream, or butter, and serve. Spinach
holds enough water for ten minutes of cooking,
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 319
and the half-cupful is added merely for precaution's
sake. The spinach should be pressed down, and if pos-
sible, turned over once during the cooking. When cooked
in this way the vegetable will retain its salts and its flavor
and be much more delicately palatable than when boiled
in a quantity of water for a longer time. One-half peck
\vill serve four.
Peas
Peas should be shelled and the shells put in a sauce-
pan and covered with boiling water. Cook for thirty min-
utes, drain and put the shelled peas into this water; add a
very little sugar, if liked, put in the casserole, and cook,
simmering slowly until the peas are tender. It is prac-
tically impossible to give the time of cooking, so much
depends upon the freshness and maturity of the peas.
From twenty to thirty minutes, or in the oven from
thirty to forty, should suffice. They must not be over-
done. Two quarts will serve four.
String Beans
String beans should be blanched. Free them from
strings, cut up, and soak in cold water, for a longer or
shorter time. If they are fresh and crisp, twenty minutes
will do; if wilted, a few hours are needed. Drain, put
them into rapidly boiling, salted water, and boil rapidly,
cover off, for ten minutes. Drain, let cold water run
over them, then put them in the casserole with one-half
cupful of boiling water and one rounding tablespoonful
of butter for each quart of beans. Cover and cook for
twenty or twenty-five minutes in a medium hot oven.
Do not overcook. Season and serve. One quart will
serve four.
320 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Cauliflower, cabbage, and brussels sprouts must all
be soaked for thirty minutes in cold water to which salt
has been added in order to free them from any insects
hidden in the leaves. Break the cauliflower into flow-
erets and cut the cabbage in pieces if the casserole is to be
used. Half cover with water and cook in the oven, the
cabbage for an hour or more, depending upon its age,
the cauliflower from thirty to forty minutes.
When the cabbage is nearly done, if more than a
little water remains, pour it off until about one-half cup-
ful is left. Add one rounding tablespoonful of butter
or bacon fat, and cook uncovered for the remainder of the
time. The cauliflower should be cooked until done,
drained, and served with a cream or hollandaise sauce.
Brussels sprouts should be prepared for cooking by
removing any outside leaves after soaking, and putting
in the casserole with, for a quart of sprouts, one cupful
of stock and one rounding tablespoonful of butter.
Cook until tender. Remove cover of the casserole, sea-
son with salt and pepper, add more butter if necessary,
and serve without sauce. One quart will serve six.
There is but one way of finding out when vegetables
arc done, and that is to try them. Salt should be added
when the cooking is nearly or all done, and the time for
cooking in the casserole should be from ten to forty
minutes more than cooking on the stove. They do not
need careful watching while cooking in this way, and
will be found to be very delicious.
t
Baked Lentils
Wash a quart of lentils and put them into a sauce-
pan with a quart of cold water; add a teaspoonful of
lemon juice, two small onions, each stuck with two
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 321
cloves, two or three red peppers, a teaspoonful of salt,
and a bunch of garden herbs, including plenty of parsley
and a small sprig of mint. Place in the pan, well covered,
over a moderate fire until the water has been absorbed
and the lentils are soft, but not pulpy. This should not
take more than half an hour. Then take out the herbs,
onions, and cloves, put the lentils into a buttered earthen-
ware dish, cover the top with a light layer of browned
bread crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, dot it over
with tiny pieces of butter, and bake it in a quick oven
just long enough to give it a rich brown crispness.
Serve with a good brown gravy. Pork or beef can be
boiled with the lentils if the flavor of meat is desired.
If German lentils are used in carrying out this recipe,
they should be soaked at least twenty-four hours, and
then boiled in the water in which they were soaked to
secure the best results.
Lentil and Mushroom Cutlets
Prepare a quart of lentils as in the recipe for baked
lentils. Add to them half a pound of fresh mushrooms,
previously cooked in their own liquor, and lightly fla-
vored with mace. Set aside the liquor for gravy and add
to the lentils and mushrooms two tablespoonfuls of red
currant jelly, two cupfuls of fine browned bread crumbs,
a dessertspoonful of meat extract, or more if required to
take up the moisture of the browned bread crumbs, a little
red pepper, and celery salt. Add three unbeaten eggs, one
at a time, until the mixture is well bound together. Shape,
brush with egg, coat with browned bread crumbs, and fry
in deep fat, as you would chicken cutlets. With the
cutlets serve a well-seasoned brown gravy, using mush-
322 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
room liquor as foundation and adding at the last mo-
ment another small spoonful of the red currant jelly.
One-half this recipe will serve eight.
Baked Lentils and Cheese
Prepare the lentils as for baked lentils, but sprinkle
three layers of grated cheese into the baking dish between
layers of lentils. On the top put thick slices of fine ripe
tomatoes, arranged thickly, so as to cover the lentils.
Over the tomatoes sprinkle finely chopped parsley and in
the center of each slice of tomato put a tiny piece of
butter. Bake quickly and serve hot with or without
gravy.
Red Kidney Beans with Cheese in Chafing Dish
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer, add
one can of red kidney beans, one small green pepper
minced finely, and a little onion or minced chives if liked.
Cook until the peppers are tender. Add one and one-half
cupfuls of grated cheese, and when melted serve on
toast.
Mint-glazed Carrots
\Yash and scrape three carrots and cut in one-fourth
inch slices. Parboil for ten or fifteen minutes, drain,
put into a saucepan with one-third cupful each of sugar
and butter, and one tablespoonful of chopped mint leaves.
Cook very slowly until glazed and perfectly tender.
Serve hot, and as a border surrounding a mound of
green peas.
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 323
Mashed Carrots
Scrape the carrots, wash them, and lay them in cold
water for half an hour. Cook until tender in boiling
water ; then drain and mash with butter as desired, season
with pepper and salt, put in a vegetable dish, garnish with
parsley, and serve very hot.
Corn Pudding
Grate twelve ears of sweet corn. Add four table-
spoonfuls of melted butter and one teaspoonful of salt.
Fold in the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten sep-
arately. Bake this in a well-buttered casserole dish, in a
quick oven, for forty-five minutes.
Onions and Cheese
Wash and peel four large onions, and cut them into
slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Butter a baking-dish
and lay the slices in it, placing them close together.
Sprinkle the onions with salt and pepper, and bake half
an hour, or until the onions are tender, then cover each
slice thickly with grated cheese, put in the oven again
and serve when cheese is melted and browned. Serve in
the baking-dish or lift out on to a hot platter. Individual
casseroles can be used to advantage when preparing
onions in this way.
Roast Nut and Barley Loaf
Make a brown sauce with two tablespoonfuls of olive
oil, one-half of a cupful of brow^ned flour, and use water
324 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
or vegetable stock for thinning ; chop one large onion
fine, and fry it in one tablespoonful of oil or butter,
then mix the onion and the sauce with two cupfuls of
cold boiled pearl barley, one cupful of finely ground
roasted peanuts, one cupful of fine bread crumbs, one
teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper.
With the hands, mold into a loaf, place in a roasting pan
which has been well buttered and let cook in the oven
for ten minutes; then add one tablespoonful of butter
and one cupful of hot water, and baste every five minutes
for half an hour. Make brown sauce in the same pan
and serve with caper sauce.
Baked Celery with Cheese
Wash celery, cut in one-inch piece>. and soak in boiling
salted water until tender. Drain and reserve stock.
With it make a sauce, using four tablespoon fuls of butter
and four tablespoonfuls of flour. Add the drained celery,
half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of
pepper, and half a cupful of grated cheese. Pour into a
buttered baking-dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and
bake until the crumbs are delicately browned.
Baked Hominy
Mash enough left-over hominy to fill an ordinary bak-
ing-dish after all the lumps are eliminated. Add two
eggs, one teaspoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of
flour, with one teaspoonful of baking powder, salt, pep-
per, and about half a cupful of milk, to make a stiff
batter. Put all this in a dish and bake three-quarters
of an hour.
JUST HO W TO COOK VEGETABLES 325
Italian Polenta
Make a desired quantity of Indian meal mush, stirring
it with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour, and
when quite thick add a small piece of butter, a little
grated Parmesan cheese, and an egg beaten until light.
Beat for two or three minutes, then pour into bread
tins, moistened with cold water, and set away to cool.
When it is cold, cut into one-half inch slices, and put
in layers in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with grated
cheese, and add a little butter to each layer. Bake in a
slow oven until the melted cheese has formed a crisp
brown coating over the polenta. Make a thick sauce of
concentrated tomatoes and pour over while very hot, and
immediately before serving.
Macaroni Savory in Chafing Dish
Boil and blanch macaroni and drain one quart of it.
In the meantime mince two small green peppers and two
small onions. When ready to serve, cook the peppers
and onions in half a cupful of olive oil in the blazer for
fifteen minutes, tossing them constantly. Add one cup-
ful of tomatoes and half a cupful of grated cheese. When
the cheese is melted, dust with salt, and serve with the
macaroni in ramekins.
Spaghetti
Break one-quarter of a pound of Italian spaghetti into
pieces one inch long and sprinkle into plenty of boiling
water. Add two rounded tablespoonfuls of butter and a
small onion sliced thin. Cook it slowly for one hour,
326 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
The spaghetti should then be well done and the water
boiled down to a creamy liquid. Ten minutes before
serving add a cupful of finely grated cheese and three
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. If this is not a sufficient
amount of the sauce, add enough to flavor the spaghetti
to taste. Serve the spaghetti with a little grated cheese
over the top and garnish with finely chopped parsley.
Mushrooms Baked under Glass
Pare the mushrooms and cut off the stems. Put thin
slices of toast, browned only on the underside, on the
nappies which come with the bells. Saute the mush-
rooms very delicately in butter and place them on the
toast. Cover with the bells and bake from fifteen to
twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. Take from the
oven, add one tablespoonful of hot cream, a little salt and
pepper to each nappy, re-cover with bells, and serve.
Some of the recipes say to saute the mushrooms in the
butter, add the cream, and simmer. Then put on the
toast and simply heat in the oven. When this method is
used the greatest care has to be employed not to let the
cream cook. The first method insures better results in
cooking the mushrooms without burning and sticking,
and produces, therefore, a more delicate flavor.
French Peas, Normandy Style
Cut two thin slices of bacon into small dice, and place
in a saute pan with four small onions, sliced. Cook
until the onions begin to brown ; add the liquor from
one can of small peas, and cook until the onions are
thoroughly tender. Add the peas, salt, and pepper to
taste, and simmer for twenty minutes. If necessary to
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 327
thicken, take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of
one egg at once, and stir until the mixture thickens.
There should be enough heat to cook the egg without
keeping it over the fire. There is danger in too much
cooking, for fear the egg yolk will cook hard, and there-
fore separate. Serve at once.
Summer Squash
Slice a good-sized onion into a tablespoonful of melted
butter or olive oil. When slightly browned, add a sum-
mer squash cut into small dice. Season w7ith salt and
pepper. Cover and cook until squash is tender.
Boiled Jerusalem Artichokes
Put one pound of artichokes into cold water. Scrape
the artichokes with small knife until they are white all
over, then put them in a pot of boiling water. Cook them
vigorously for a good half-hour, then strain the water
off and serve very hot with plenty of butter, pepper, and
a little salt.
Fried Celery
Make a batter with two cupfuls of flour and two tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder, well sifted together, one and
a half cupfuls of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup-
ful of melted butter, and a speck of salt. Cut as many
stalks of celery as desired in pieces three or four inches
in length, and cook in boiling salted water until tender.
Drain and let dry on a platter ; dip them into the batter
until well coated and fry in hot fat until brown. Serve
on a flat dish with a border of celery leaves.
328 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Smothered Tomatoes
Cut six small tomatoes in halves crosswise. Arrange
them in a baking pan, with the skin side down. Pour
over them three tablespoonfuls of melted butter and some
finely minced parsley. Season with pepper and salt and
cover over with another pan and cook until they are soft.
Tomato Curry
Cook one tablespoonful of minced celery, one of minced
green pepper, and one teaspoonful of minced onion in one
tablespoonful of butter, lay in four large slice** of tomato
which have been rolled in Hour and cornmeal mixed,
and cook them on both sides without breaking them.
Have toast covered with finely minced chicken or lamb,
and lay a slice of tomato on each. Add to the pan one
teaspoonful each of corn starch and curry powder dis-
solved in one-half cupful of cream. \\ hen boiling pour
over the tomatoes. The meat may he omitted.
Tomatoes a la Tom
Cook slowly three slices of bacon diced. Remove the
veins and see<K fr<>m four green peppers and cut in
small pieo I 'eel four medium-sized onions and cut
in small pieces. Add the peppers and onions to the bacon
and cook until a nice brown. Remove to a covered dish
to keep hot. Slice six large ripe tomatoes and dip each in
flour in which salt and pepper has been dusted. Fry in
half butter and half lard. Turn them carefully and
brown on both sides. Remove to a platter and pour the
bacon, peppers, and onions over them. Pour over all a
cream sauce made of a tablespoonful of flour rubbed
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 329
smoo'Si in a t-.blespoonful of butter in the same frying-
pan. Add one cupful of milk and cook until thick.
Tomato Rabbit
Cook one tablespoonful of chopped onion in one table-
spoonful of butter five minutes. Add one cupful of to-
matoes, cook two minutes, and strain. In a saucepan,
or the blazer of the chafing dish, melt two tablespoonfuls
of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and three-
fourths of a cupful of thin cream. Cook until thickened,
then add two cupfuls of cheese cut in dice or thinly
shaved, the tomato, and one-half teaspoonful each of
mustard and salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika.
Stir until cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth.
Add two slightly beaten eggs, cook one minute, and
serve on toast or heated crackers.
Rice with Tomato and Cheese
Pick over and wash half a cupful of rice. Place in
the upper part of a double boiler with three cupfuls of
boiling water, and boil five minutes. Add one cupful of
tomato puree, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one tea-
spoonful each of chopped onion and green pepper, cooked
until soft in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook in the
double boiler, without stirring, until the rice is soft, then
add half a cupful of grated cheese. Stir with a fork
and serve as soon as the cheese is melted.
Cabbage Hors d'Oeuvre
Two cupfuls of raw cabbage, two tablespoonfuls of
chives, one fresh red pepper, and a few olives. Chop all
separately and cover with a French dressing.
330 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Celery Croquettes
Cut the outer green stalks of a bunch of celery into
small pieces and boil in slightly salted water until very
tender; drain and mash to a paste, adding a small cupful
of grated bread crumbs, a high seasoning of salt and pep-
per, the yolk of one hard-cooked egg, blended with a
quarter of a teaspoonful of French mustard, one table-
spoonful of cream sauce, and the beaten yolk of one egg ;
mix the ingredients thoroughly and, with floured hands,
form into small croquettes, frying in deep fat (any
vegetable oil) to a golden 1>n>\vn; serve on a folded
napkin, inserting- in the top of each a sprig of parsley,
attached to a small toothpick.
Black Bean Soup
Soak a quart of the beans all night. In the morning
turn off the water and cover them with boiling water for
half an hour; drain again and add two quarts of boiling
water, slightly salted, I'.oil slowly until the beans are
broken to pieces. Rub through a sieve back into the
pot with the water in which they were boiled, and pour
in upon the puree a quart of good stock. Simmer for
half an hour; season with onion juice, salt, and pepper
to taste. Thicken with a roux of browned flour rubbed
to a paste with butter, using a tablespoonful of each to
a pint, then cook for a minute, boil up once, and it is
ready to serve. Have ready diced or fried bread to
put upon the surface when it goes into the tureen or into
plates. Some prefer sliced lemon, peeled, and laid upon
the top of the soup, to the fried bread.
Celery Croquettes.
Recipe given on Page 330.
Shad Roe Croquettes.
Recipe given on Page i6j.
Lentils, Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. A Sala(
Dressing may be added if liked.
Directions for Cook in <j the Lentils on Page 320.
Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower
Recipe given on Page 111.
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 331
Belgian Corn Fritters
To one can of corn add the beaten yolks of two
eggs and one cupful of flour which has been sifted with
one teaspoonful of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of
salt, and one-third teaspoonful of paprika. Beat well
together, then add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped
parsley. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs.
Cook in a frying pan, preferably in bacon fat, dropping
a large tablespoonful in the pan. Fry golden brown on
each side and serve garnished with strips of bacon.
Mint Peas
Cook the peas in the regular way, but add one or two
mint sprigs while cooking. This adds a delicate flavor
of mint.
Mock Beef a la Mode
Beef a la mode is a substantial dish. Cut a Hubbard
squash into thick slices, remove the outer skin and the
pithy inside portion which contains the seeds. Butter a
deep stone baking-dish. Arrange a layer of the squash ;
dust with salt and pepper ; add a thinly sliced onion and
a layer of tender carrots, thinly sliced, with a thin cover-
ing of chopped parsley. Repeat with alternate layers
until the dish is full, and then fill up with beef-stock.
Cover and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Make
a thick brown gravy with some more stock ; add a table-
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce or mushroom-ketchup ;
arrange squash cutlets and other vegetables on a heated
332 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
dish, and pour the gravy over it. Garnish with small yel-
low turnips which have been boiled, and fried hominy.
Serve with potatoes and tender cabbage. Remember, a
large Hubbard squash must be used for this dish. When
properly cooked you can hardly detect that no meat has
been used.
Red Cabbage
Wash a large head, quarter, shred fine, wash again, and
drain. Put a lump of drippings in a deep skillet, test
with shredded onion; when the onion browns put in the
cabbage, stir well, add boiling water to cover, and cook
an hour. Then add three large apples, sliced thin, and
a small pinch of salt ; let boil ten minutes, then stir in a
level tablespoonful of flour wet smooth in three spoon-
fuls of vinegar. Boil up. and serve hot. A variant, much
approved in some kitchens, is to slice sweet potatoes in-
stead of apples. Finish the same.
Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower
Cut a thin slice from the stem end of large green
peppers and remove seeds. Parboil ten minutes and fill
with creamed cauliflower. Sprinkle tops with buttered
crumbs and bake until skins are tender, basting occa-
sionally with butter and water.
Okra
Test with the thumb-nail. I'nless the nail cuts it
freely the pods are too tough. But do not throw away
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 333
the tough ones. Shell the seed from them and either
dry to use in soups, or to cook alone, when they should
be served with butter, vinegar, and salt. Cut stems off
the pods, cook whole those half-grown or under, but cut
those more mature into half-inch slices. Boil tender,
in water very slightly salted. When a fork pierces them
readily they are cooked enough. Drain them well, lay
in a deep pan or hot dish, dress liberally with butter,
pepper, salt, and vinegar, and set for five minutes in a
hot oven. They should be served very hot.
Mock Pork
Mock pork requires squash, but the white, summer
variety. Select a nicely shaped, large squash. Be sure
not to get one that looks at all yellow, for if you do it
will have to be peeled, which is undesirable, as peeled
squash is apt to fall to pieces in the cooking. Cut a
circle with a sharp knife all around the squash, and re-
move, to enable you to scoop out the seeds ; then fill with
the following dressing : One pint of stale bread crumbs ;
one onion chopped fine ; one-half teaspoonful of powdered
sage; a teaspoonful of dried mustard; two ounces of
butter cut into small pieces ; half a teaspoonful of salt
and pepper ; mix thoroughly ; moisten with two beaten
eggs. After the squash is filled, replace the piece that
was cut out, put into a baking pan, and cook for two
hours. Use bacon or pork drippings to baste with. To
make the gravy which should accompany it, fry a sliced
onion golden brown in butter ; add pepper and salt to
taste, and half a pint of milk; stir constantly, cook until
golden brown, and the consistency of thick cream. Put
the baked squash on a hot platter ; pile up a wall of
334 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
apple sauce around it ; mashed turnips and new potatoes
are the nicest vegetables to serve with it.
Escallop of Green Corn
Eight small or six large ears of tender corn, one quart
of ripe tomatoes, a half-pint of mild onions, heaping
tablespoonful butter, teaspoonful sugar, half-teaspoonful
salt, dust of black pepper or one large green pepper
shredded fine. Peel tomatoes, cut in thick slices, slice
onions thin, blanch, and drain, cut corn from cob, saving
all the milk, put a layer over the bottom of an earthen
dish, cover with sliced tomatoes and onions, then sprinkle
with salt and su^ar. and dot with bits of butter and
>hreds of pepper. Repeat till dish is full, putting plenty
of butter on top, pour over the milk from the corn, and
bake in a very hot oven twenty-five to thirty minutes.
Serve hot or cold. If served cold, with a sharp French
dressing or a boiled vinegar dressing, it makes a satis-
fying salad.
Summer Hot Pot
Select medium-sized tomatoes which are just ripe, but
nothing more, for they must be quite solid. Dip in scald-
ing water, to loosen their skins : peel, and cut into quar-
ters or halves, according to size. Put a layer at the
bottom of a casserole; then a layer of onions. They
should not be any larger than marbles. Next a layer of
potatoes, cut into slices; scatter a little chopped parsley
with salt and pepper ; repeat with more tomatoes and the
different ingredients until you have enough for your
family. Barely cover with meat stock, bring to the boil,
JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 335
then draw back where it will slowly simmer for an hour
or bake in an oven. We like either cauliflower and peas,
or asparagus and spinach with it.
Steamed Squash in Shell
Carefully cut the top from a squash preferably oval in
shape, though the round ones may be used. Steam it
until tender. Scrape out the pulp and pass it through a
vegetable sieve or mash it and beat until very smooth.
Make a cream sauce : melt two tablespoonfuls of butter,
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when blended, one
cupful of milk. Season highly with salt and pepper, and
cook until thickened, stirring to prevent lumps. Beat
into the squash pulp, season again if not sufficient, and
pack the mixture into the shell. Cover with buttered
crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. Brown in a
hot oven, and serve from the shell.
Stuffed Eggplant
Cut in halves without peeling, cook in boiling salted
water fifteen minutes. Remove pulp, chop, and mix with
one cupful of stale bread crumbs. Season with salt, pep-
per, butter, and onion juice. Cook for five minutes, cool,
add one beaten egg, and fill the eggplant halves. Cover
with buttered crumbs and bake twenty-five minutes.
Hulled Corn
One quart of corn, one heaping tablespoonful of sale-
ratus put into a kettle of water on the stove. Keep the
corn covered with two or three inches of water, and boil
336 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
until you can take a kernel in your fingers and slip off
the hull. Remove from stove and wash in three or four
waters ; then boil until tender.
Corn Cakes to Serve with Meat
One cupful of canned corn, half a teaspoonful of salt,
one cupful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, three-
fourths of a cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of baking
powder, and two well-beaten eggs. To the corn add
milk, sugar, and eggs well beaten. Mix and sift salt, flour,
and baking powder. Combine mixtures, drop by spoon-
fuls into hot buttered muffin-ring set in a buttered baking-
pan, and bake in a moderate oven until firm. A delicious
accompaniment to roast beef.
MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 337
338 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES
MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 339
340 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES
MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 341
342 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES
LAIOST every one who has made brine pickles
has had the maddening experience of having
them turn soft. In factories this has caused
much loss of money — in Michigan, for ex-
ample, the loss from this cause is estimated
at an average of about $ 1,000 a year for each
factory ; in homes it has caused much loss of
labor and temper, for what is true of the factory's
tank in regard to pickle softening is just as true of
the housewife's two-gallon crock. The difference is
that wrhereas the factory has been able to carry on ex-
pensive investigations into the cause of pickle spoilage,
the housewife could only hope for better luck next year.
Now, however, the time has come when the housewife
can, if she will, make use of the factory's knowledge.
Investigations of especially noteworthy thoroughness
have been made by Dr. Otto Rahn, who is in charge of
the canners' fund of the University of Illinois. His work
occupied a period of six months ; but as six calendar
months mean three pickle years practically every char-
acteristic of the conditions likely to be met with in brine
pickling is covered thereby. Dr. Rahn, setting out to
understand the normal brine pickle from the very begin-
ning, first ascertained just what happens to a cucumber to
change it into a pickle. In this connection, he discovered
one very interesting fact : it is not the salt in the brine
that causes the pickle to keep. Salt, and that in good
measure, is absolutely necessary to pickle keeping, but
343
344 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
salt alone is not enough. The essential factor in keeping
brine pickles is the acid, probably lactic acid, which forms
through the action of bacteria. Many manufacturers do
not know that their brine contains acid, yet the instant it
does not contain it the pickle is on the way to destruction.
There are no bacteria in a healthy cucumber, nor are
there any in strong brine ; then how do they get into the
pickle-tank? They ride in in thousands on the outside
of the cucumber, especially if a little soil adheres. Im-
mersion in strong brine finishes the life story of most of
them, but a few regard it as a chance to prove themselves.
And from within the cucumber comes their food. The
cucumbers shrink in the brine, giving off water, and with
it sugar, and other traces o'f bacterial food. Sugar is
especially acceptable to the busy bacteria, and the kinds
that can tolerate the salt immediately begin to grow and
decompose the sugar. Acid and gas follow upon this
decomposition. The gas escapes and make- the familiar
froth, while the acid reveals its presence by its action
upon the color of the pickles, turning their grass-green-
ness to the olive-green everywhere recognized as the cor-
rect tint for pickles. When the fm thing ceases, the acid
becomes fairly strong, and as it is a rather capable dis-
infectant, it will kill most of the bacteria in the brine.
But the trouble is. that there is more than just this acid
formed in the brine. The brine and the cucumbers in
combination possess not alone the power of establishing
their own preservation, but also the power of bringing
about their own destruction. Besides the bacteria, a
skum-yeast is always present in the brine. This skum-
yeast destroys the lactic acid, and leaves the pickles open
to destruction. Were the growth of this skum-yeast pre-
vented so that the acid would remain in the brine, pickles
undoubtedly could be kept for centuries.
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 345
But the encouraging fact brought by the investigations
is that the prevention of skum-yeast is not impossible or
even excessively difficult. Skimming it off is an ineffi-
cient and unsatisfactory method of getting rid of it, be-
cause it always grows in again ; but it cannot tolerate
sunlight, and it must have air. The old-fashioned out-
door tanks were not bothered much with skum-yeast ;
trouble started when the roof was built. As for the
necessity of air to skum-yeast, that is attested by the very
fact that it grows as a skum. On the other hand, the
bacterium which forms the acid in the brine has just the
opposite characteristic — it avoids the air. Sunlight, too,
would kill it, but it grows at the bottom of the tank, or
jar, where there is no light. So it becomes apparent that
whatever shuts the air from brine pickles encourages the
presence of acid, and also discourages the skum-yeast.
Dr. Rahn's experiments proved this point very clearly.
He experimented with pickles in glass jars and also in
barrels, with precisely similar results. In the case of the
barrels, six barrels of cucumbers were brined in the usual
way ; then three of them were kept open, while the other
three were covered with about two inches of cottonseed
oil, after the barrels were headed up, air-tight, with but
one small hole for the gas to escape. All six barrels
fermented normally, but at the end of twenty-two months
the pickles in the three open barrels were so soft that they
could not be taken out without falling to pieces, while
those in the closed barrels were in first-class condition
and of excellent flavor. The brine of the open barrels
showed no trace of acid, in fact, it was slightly alkaline,
while the brine under oil had not changed its acidity in
twenty-one months. Do not, however, suppose from this
that cottonseed-oil is the essential of preservation. What
is to be recommended is the exclusion of air.
346 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Indeed, cottonseed-oil cannot be used by manufacturers
or housewives, because it would make the pickles oily,
and eventually rancid. There is, however, paraffin, that
noble ally of the jelly-jar. This gave complete satisfac-
tion when tried on a two-gallon jar of pickles; and even
in factories its use would not be too expensive, as the
paraffin could be remelted and used year after year. P>ut
of course, in case of its use. care must be taken not to
pour it on until the fermentation has ceased, as otherwise
the gases arising from the brine would tear it to pieces
and make a remelting necessary. lUit the great fact is
that exclusion of air will result in the retention of the
acid and the prevention of the formation of the skum-
\east which de-troy >> the acid, thus causing the pickles to
keep indefinitely.
There is also an earlier stage in the life history of a
pickle, when certain bacteria can get in their work of
destruction, and should consequently be guarded against.
This is the period before normal fermentation begins.
In Dr. Rahn's opinion, the ^poilage that may then occur
is due to the action of one of the so-called potato bac-
teria. These stand salt well, and if they happen to be
present in fairly lar^e numbers, they can do great dam-
age, for they grow very fast. Fighting these bacteria,
however, is not difficult. Putting in brine from a fer-
menting tank or jar. or even a little vinegar, will speedily
cause their career to cease. Where this is not possible,
attention to temperature and whatever induces rapid fer-
mentation will put them out of the ranks of trouble-
makers. Also, pickles should be compelled to stay under
brine instead of being allowed to poke out where the
potato bacteria can catch them.
In short, the great secret of successful pickle-making
lies in bringing about acid fermentation quickly, and
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 347
after this is over, in preserving the acidity of
the brine.
Since some bacteria are necessary for the keeping of
pickles, it is not advisable to rid the outside of the cucum-
bers of bacteria before putting them into brine, for then
the good would perish with the evil bacteria. Neither
is it necessary to wash the cucumbers, since all brine
pickles are washed anyway before being eaten. In the
case of dill pickles, of course, this does not apply. They
are eaten as they come from the tank, and therefore the
cucumbers used in making them should be washed be-
fore pickling. It has been recommended by a German
bacteriologist that a little whey from sour milk be put
into the pickle-barrel to hasten the fermentation. But
this practice has been tried with dill pickles only — brine
pickles being unknown in Germany.
Tiny Cucumbers or Gherkin Pickles
Select one hundred very small prickly cucumbers
or gherkins, of uniform size, and cover them with cold
water. In an hour drain and turn them into a large
crock. Add one cupful of salt to sufficient boiling water
to cover the cucumbers and pour this over them. Cover
the crock closely and let it stand for two days. After
this, drain, rejecting those that may be imperfect or
soft, and pack them in a clean crock. Heat one quart
of cider vinegar with half a cupful of brown sugar until
it boils, skim, and add half a cupful of fresh horseradish
slivers, one red pepper, and two small shredded green
peppers, half a cupful of nasturtium seeds, half an
ounce of celery seed, a quarter of an ounce of stick
cinnamon, two ounces of white and brown mustard seed,
348 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
one teaspoonful of alum broken into small bits, half of
a small onion sliced, one dozen cloves, and a small blade
of mace. When this is boiling, strain and pour it into
the crock, stirring the cucumbers from the bottom.
Cover closely and let it stand for a week, then reheat the
liquid, pack the pickles in glass jars, nil with hot vinegar,
and seal the jars; or replace the pickles in crocks and
cover closely. They will be ready for use in six weeks.
If the flavor of Tarragon vinegar is preferred, use half
Tarragon and half cider vinegar.
East Indian Pickles
Slice two quarts of green tomatoes, six small onions, five
medium-sized green cucumbers, and a small head of red
cabbage. Place them in a crock in separate layers with
a sprinkling of salt between each layer. After twenty-
four hours cover with the following boiling mixture
( which should be drained off and reheated each day for
three days ) : Three pints of cider vinegar, a fourth of a
pound of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery
seed, two small green peppers, shredded, one and a half
pounds of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of black
pepper, and one-fourth of a cupful of turmeric. On the
third morning add two cupfuls of Tarragon vinegar, one
tablespoonful of mustard, half a cupful of salad oil, and
one teaspoonful of curry powder. Seal in glass jars
and use after six weeks.
Green Tomatoes and Pepper Relish
Chop finely one peck of green tomatoes, three large
onions, six green peppers with the seeds removed, boil
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 349
them three minutes in two quarts of very weak vinegar,
drain, and turn into glass jars. Scald three quarts of
vinegar with two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of
white mustard seed, one tablespoonful each of cinnamon,
cloves, and allspice, three tablespoonfuls of salt, and one
teaspoonful of celery seed. When this is boiling, pour it
over the chopped ingredients and seal the jars.
Green Tomato Sweet Pickles
Slice thinly one peck of green tomatoes and cover them
with one gallon of water mixed with one cupful of salt.
The next day drain this thoroughly. Heat two quarts of
vinegar with three cupfuls of brown sugar and two table-
spoonfuls of mixed spices in a bag. With a skimmer
plunge a few of the tomatoes at a time into this boiling
vinegar. Cook for a few moments, and put them immedi-
ately into hot glass jars. Fill them with the boiling liquid
and seal.
Stuffed Green Peppers (or Mangoes)
Cut the tops from the peppers (or mangoes), remove
the seeds, and cover both the tops and the peppers with a
brine strong enough to hold up an egg, then leave them
for three or four days. Drain and stuff them with shaved
cabbage seasoned with mustard seed, celery seed, chopped
onion, grated horseradish, a suspicion of mace, and a
little brown sugar, all moistened with salad oil. Tie on
the tops, pack in a crock, and pour over them boiling Tar-
ragon vinegar. Seal, and do not use them before two
months have elapsed.
350 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
Mixed Mustard Pickle
Slice one quart of onions, one quart of small green to-
matoes, and one large peeled cucumber. Break one head
of cauliflower into small pieces, and cut one quart of
green or wax beans into half-inch lengths. Cover each
of these w-ith salt and water, also one quart of button
onions, one quart of tiny cucumbers, and two red peppers
and two green peppers shredded. The next morning
boil them until they are tender, drain them and toss them
together. Boil one quart of vinegar with one cupful of
sugar mixed with a third of a cupful of flour and a
fourth of a pound of mustard. \Yhcn this is thick, add
one teaspoonful of celery seed, half a cupful of butter,
and one tablespoonful of turmeric. Add this to the other
ingredients, and turn all into glass jars, and seal.
Tomato Catsup (Uncooked)
Chop finely half a peck of ripe tomatoes, three red
and three green peppers (without seeds), four celery
stalks, and two onions; add one cupful of grated horse-
radish in one cupful of Tarragon vinegar, half a cupful
of black and white mustard seed, one cupful of brown
sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, three tablespoon-
fuls of salt, and one pint of cider vinegar. Mix this well
and put into jars or bottles and seal.
Pepper Hash
Chop finely twelve green peppers, twelve sweet red
peppers, and twelve very small onions ; add three table-
spoonfuls of salt, and let it simmer for ten minutes ; then
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 351
drain and add one quart of vinegar and one cupful of
brown sugar. Let it come to a boil, and then turn it
into jars. Use this for sandwiches.
Cucumber Catsup (Uncooked)
Peel and chop six green cucumbers (table size), add
one green pepper, and two small onions minced. Drain
this and add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and turn
it into glass jars. Use this for sandwiches.
Chili Sauce
Chop four quarts of ripe tomatoes, four medium-sized
onions, and one red pepper; add two cupfuls of vinegar,
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of
salt, and two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. Boil this one
hour and turn it into jars and seal. Use with salad
dressing and as a relish for cold meats.
Ripe Tomato Sweet Pickle
Peel and weigh tomatoes of uniform size, taking care
that they are not overripe. Lay them carefully in a
stone crock, and cover them with cold vinegar. The
next day take up the tomatoes carefully in a skimmer,
and lay them on a plate and place the plate in the bottom
of a kettle. To half of the vinegar add sugar weighing
half the weight of the tomatoes, heat this and add a
bag of whole spices ; pour this gently over the tomatoes,
and place it over a low fire to keep very hot (not boiling)
for four hours. Pack these in the crock and cover.
Serve with meat.
352 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Yellow Egg Tomato Sweets
In the morning, scald quickly, and peel six pounds of
tomatoes. Cover them with one quart of water mixed
with one pint of vinegar and one tablespoonful of salt,
and let it stand over night. Drain the tomatoes and to
each pound use three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Pack
in layers and let stand until morning. Pour off the syrup
and add small, thin slices of lemon, a few pieces of ginger
root, four drops of oil of cinnamon, and two drops of
oil of cloves. Boil this syrup until it is thick, add the
tomatoes and cook until they are transparent. Pack them
into small jars, and fill with the thick syrup. Serve them
with chicken or meats.
Spiced Currants
For every five pounds of currants take two quarts of
water and one pint of vinegar, one tablespoonful ground
cinnamon, and four pounds of sugar; two teaspoonfuls
ground cloves ; one teaspoonfnl each of ground allspice
and mace. Boil the currants with the sugar. When
quite thick, add the vinegar and spices and boil, stirring
well for fifteen or twenty minutes more. Store as jelly.
Preserved Watermelon Rind
Peel the rind from one-half of a melon, rejecting all of
the soft pink part. Chop it finely or cut it in a meat
grinder. Place it over night in a bowl with a sprinkling
of salt over each layer of chopped rind. In the morning
draw off all the liquid and freshen it in cold water, by
washing it two or three times. Place it on the fire in
the preserving kettle with one cupful of sugar to every
JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 353
cupful of rind, and let it boil for two or three hours.
Add the grated peel of three lemons or the peel cut in
thin bits and the pulp cut into small pieces. Reject the
seeds. Seal in small jars, not jelly glasses.
Grape Conserve
Remove the pulp of five pounds of grapes. Cook it
and take out the seeds. Chop two pounds of raisins and
half a pound of English walnut meats. Add the grated
rind and juice of three oranges and four pounds of granu-
lated sugar. Cook all together until i" is quite thick.
Beet Chowder
To two cupfuls of finely chopped beets (boiled) add
two cupfuls of chopped cabbage and one cupful of horse-
radish. Heat it and pour over the mixture the follow-
ing: TWTO cupfuls of vinegar, one pound of sugar, one
tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of mustard.
This wrill keep indefinitely if put in glass jars.
354 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES
MOlfE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES 355
356 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES
ICE CREAM AND CAKE
By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D.
ROM a nutritive point of view, both ice cream
and cake are valuable foods. They are some-
what of the same nature, namely, largely
sugars. Ice cream, however, contains quite a
quantity of protein and fat derived from the
cream. Cake contains some protein and fat
also, the proteins being derived from the flour
and the fat added as " shortening ' in the process of
making. Thus it is seen that ice cream and cake are
largely heat-forming bodies due to the sugars and fats
which they contain. They are, however, by no means
devoid of protein, building materials, so that to a certain
extent they may be regarded as balanced foods, though
the balance is by no means perfect. There is more. fat
or oil and sugar in ice cream and cake than the needs
of the body demand. Hence, a due regard for health
would indicate that these desserts are to be eaten in
somewhat limited quantities. Above all, the person who
sits at the table should satisfy his appetite in a restrained
manner. It should not be all wasted upon the first dishes
that come, but a portion of it should be reserved for
dessert, when it consists of nutritious foods like cake
and ice cream. If this were done, the damage which so
often results from eating desserts would be avoided, for
the harm usually is due to the fact that the nutritional
needs of the body have been gratified before the dessert
is reached. Only large children and grown people should
partake of these articles of food; the young child will
do far better to have his meal without dessert.
357
A Souffle Tin.
Directions for Making are on Page 248.
for Baking all Souffles.
It is Useful
Raspberry Jelly.
Recipe TCI'// be found on Page 260.
Acorn Cakes.
Recipe ivill be found on Page 391.
Devil's Food Pudding.
Recipe i^ill be found on Page
JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS
HE parfaits, mousses, and biscuits (pro-
nounced, in French, ' biskwee ") are par-
ticularly practical desserts, as they need no
stirring during the freezing process. Taken
as a whole there are perhaps no desserts
other than the multitudes of frozen ones that
so pleasantly bring a dinner to its close. They
are practical, too. They can be made and left to ripen
some hours before serving. This enables the cook to set
the dessert aside and do all the rest of her work up to
the last minute. And again, they are less trouble to
prepare than pies, cakes, or puddings.
These simple concoctions are in general a light ice
cream, having as a base custard, creams, whipped eggs
reinforced with fruits, syrups, and gelatine ; or com-
binations of these. The most frequent base is whipped
cream. The cream must be beaten until very stiff, fla-
vored as desired, and placed in a mold in the ice for three
to four hours. All ingredients must be carefully folded
into the cream to preserve the mosslike texture of the
frozen product. Gelatine can be used with thin cream ;
and the whip of thin cream as well. The proportions of
sugar and flavorings are about double those needed for
an ordinary pudding which is not to be frozen.
When using fruit it is generally better to use the
juices, or pulp, as bits of fruit may become too much
like lumps of ice.
359
360 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
The difference between parfaits and mousses may be
said to consist in the use of eggs and syrups in parfaits
and the sugar and gelatine in mousses. The biscuits are
merely mousses molded in individual forms.
• How to Mold These Desserts
While preparing the mixture, place the mold on ice
until it is thoroughly cold, then put in the mixture by
spoonfuls and spread it carefully throughout the mold.
Fill so that when the cover is put on some of the mixture
will be forced out. Cover the top of the mold (before
putting on the lid) with buttered paper or soft wrapping
paper a little larger than the surface to be covered.
Put on the cover, and bury the mold in the freezing
mixture for from three to four hours. If this method is
followed, no salt can possibly enter the mold.
To Freeze
The ordinary proportion for freezing is three parts
of ice to one of rock salt, but here we suggest two parts
of ice to one of rock salt. When rock salt and ice of
about the same size are mixed, the salt melts the ice.
In this way the salt, too, dissolves, so that both solids are
liquefied. The heat which causes this to happen is drawn
from the ice cream which is to be frozen, as it is by this
extraction of heat that the freezing process takes place.
The best ice for freezing is porous or snow ice, as the
air holes permit the salt's easy access to the ice, causing
it to melt rapidlv. Do not draw off the water in the
freezer until the ice floats on top (this liquid is colder
JUST HOir TO MAKE FROZEX DESSERTS 361
than the unmelted ice), because the freezing process is
at its height and the water from this time on will rise in
temperature and can then be drawn off. If necessary, at
this point, more of the freezing mixture can be added.
To Remove from the Mold
Wash the mold in cold water, remove all brine, and
wipe perfectly dry. -Remove cover and paper. Invert
the mold on a flat dish, and if the room is warm it should
slip out comfortably. If it does not, rinse a cloth in hot
water and wrap it about the mold for a fraction of a
minute until the contents slide out readily.
It is better not to let mousses or parfaits freeze very
hard, as they are difficult to remove from molds and are
not pleasant to eat. Very often to obviate the difficulties
encountered on removing these frozen desserts, the mold
is lined with a sherbet whose melting point is a bit
higher than the mousse or parfait. The sherbet melts
more quickly and therefore slips away from the mold
more readily.
Lemon Parfait
Make one cupful of thick lemon syrup by heating one
cupful sugar with one-half cupful of water. Add the
juice and grated rind of three lemons. Pour this over
two beaten egg yolks. Cook in a double boiler until it
thickens. Remove from the stove and when it cools com-
bine it with one pint (two cupfuls ) of thick cream beaten
until stiff — or the whip from thinner cream. Fill molds
and pack in ice and salt for three or four hours.
362 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK
Coffee Parfait
Pour a syrup of one-half of a cupful of sugar and one
cupful of strong coffee over two beaten eggs. Cook this
in a double boiler until it thickens. Remove from stove,
and when it is cool, combine it with one pint (two cup-
fuls) of thick cream, beaten until stiff — or the whip from
thinner cream. Fill molds and pack in ice and salt for
three or four hours.
Walnut Mousse
Whip four cupfuls of cream until thick. Flavor with
a teaspoonful of vanilla. Fold in two cupfuls of walnut
meats until all are included. Pack in mold and freeze for
three hours. Serve with chocolate sauce. Thin cream
can be used with one ounce of gelatine dissolved in one-
quarter cupful uf water.
Mint Biscuit Mousse
Rub off the yellow rind of three lemons on six lumps of
loaf sugar, then crush the sugar to a powder, adding four
tablespoonfuls of mint extract, made from steeping in
boiling water a handful of bruised mint leaves. .Mix
in carefully a cupful of grated macaroon crumbs, the
yolk of one well-beaten egg, and a pint of stittly whipped
cream. Beat steadily for five minutes, and turn into
small tin molds or forms having watertight covers. Bury
this in chopped ice and rock salt for three hours before
serving. Serve in individual portions on squares of
sponge cake accompanied by any desired sauce.
JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 363
Ginger Mousse
Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatine in one-
fourth of a cupful of cold water, add a pinch of salt and
three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar. Stir and
strain gradually into two coffee cupfuls of cream whipped
very stiff and flavored with two tablespoonfuls of ginger
syrup, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Before
freezing, add one cupful of preserved crystallized ginger,
cut in very small pieces.
Pineapple Mousse
To one cupful of pineapple syrup, heated, add one
tablespoonful of gelatine softened in one-fourth of a
cupful of cold water, one cupful of sugar, and two table-
spoonfuls of lemon juice. Strain and let cool. As the
mixture thickens, fold in one quart (four cupfuls) of
whipped cream. Mold, pack in ice and salt, and let
stand for four hours.
Frappes
A frappe is a half-frozen ice, of a mushy consistency,
and of a granular texture. Gelatine is not used and
sugar alone is often employed instead of the usual sugar
syrup. This makes the combining of ingredients for
frappes simpler than for other dishes. Their coarse,
granular texture in contrast to the smooth, fine-grained
texture of creams and sherbets is produced chiefly by
the different proportions of salt and ice, used in freezing.
The smaller amount of salt used, the finer the grain and
the smoother the texture ; the more salt, the coarser the
364 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
grain and the more granular the texture. A frappe tex-
ture can be obtained without the use of the freezer,
which greatly reduces one's labor.
To Freeze
The mixture should be poured into a mold or any
tight-fitting utensil, filled to overflowing, a piece of wrap-
ping paper laid over the top, the cover fitted on closely,
and the mold well packed in a mixture of ice and salt. If
a very coarse texture is desired, use equal proportions of
salt and ice; if a finer texture is wanted, use one part
salt to two of ice ; if a smooth cream texture, one of salt
to three of ice. Allow the mixture to remain for three
hours in the mold, and if the smallest amount of salt is
used allow five or six hours.
Frappes, being real thirst nnrnchers, are especially used
to serve from the punch bowl at teas, receptions, and
dances, and are superior to ice cream and sherbets for
such occasions. For a dessert, a garnish of whipped
cream and additions of pieces of fruit make an attractive
modification. Whipped cream may be placed on top of
the frappe after filling a mold two-thirds full and all
frozen together successfully. There are some, however,
who dislike to eat fruit that is stiffly frozen. There are
two classes of frappes: in one, the fruit finely cut or
chopped is used with the juice, giving rise to the name
granites; in the other, the fruit juice alone is used, di-
luted as for an ice.
Tea Frappe
Boil one cupful of sugar and two cupfnls of water for
five minutes to make a syrup. Add one pint of fairly
JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 365
strong tea, freshly made and cooled, then the grated rind
and juice of three oranges, the juice of two lemons, and
one can of grated pineapple. Freeze in a freezer if de-
sired, or turn into a mold, cover the top with paraffin
paper or buttered paper, place a cover on it tightly, and
pack in a mixture of equal parts of salt and ice for three
hours. Remove from the mold and garnish with slices
of lemon or crushed mint leaves dusted with powdered
sugar.
Coffee Frappe
Make coffee the strength desired, strain it carefully and
cool and sweeten to taste, then place it in a mold, and
pack as for all frappes. One cupful of cream may be
added before packing if desired. Garnish with whipped
cream in serving.
Chocolate or Coffee Frappe
Make chocolate or cocoa as if for a beverage, add to
four cupfuls one cupful sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla,
and one cupful of strong clear coffee. Freeze in a freezer
or mold in ice and salt. Serve in tall sherbet glasses, and
garnish with whipped cream.
Fruit Juice Frappe
Two cupfuls of fruit juice; one cupful of sugar, and
two cupfuls of water to make a syrup; the juice of two
lemons. Cool, mix, and fill a mold. Bury in equal pro-
portions of salt and ice for three hours. If a finer tex-
366 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
ture is desired, use one part of salt to two of ice and
allow five or six hours for freezing.
Orange and Grape Juice Frappe
Add one cupful of sugar to two cupfuls of grape juice
and one cupful of orange juice. Add one-fourth of a
cupful of lemon juice. One cupful of cream may be
added if desired. Fill the mold and pack with ice and
salt. Garnish with whipped cream in serving.
Cider Frappe
To four cupfuls of sweet cider add one-half of a cup-
ful of sugar and the juice of one or two lemons. Freeze
as other frappes, packing in salt and ice.
Granites Made with a Syrup
Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and two cupfuls
of water. Cool and add two cupfuls of crushed or
chopped fruit and juice-, and the juice of one or two
lemons. Pack as for frappes for five hours.
Banana Granite
Pour over four large ripe bananas, thinly sliced, the
juice of one lemon and three-fourths of a cupful of
sugar. Cover this and chill it for an hour. To this add
the grated peel of the lemon and two cupfuls of ice
water. Place it in a mold and pack it in equal propor-
tions of ice and salt for five or six hours. Peaches or
apricots may be substituted for bananas.
JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 367
Bombe Glaces
The regular bombe glace is a sherbet or an ice, lining a
mold, the center being filled with a charlotte russe mix-
ture. This involves several distinct processes, — the freez-
ing of a sherbet, the making of the charlotte russe mix-
ture and the use of gelatine, the packing in the mold, and
the burying of the mold in salt and ice. A satisfactory
bombe glace may be made in a much simpler way, the
only difference being that the whipped cream forms a
layer on the bottom of the mold instead of filling the
center. Pour the mixture into the mold, filling it two-
thirds full. Fill it to overflowing with sweetened and
flavored whipped cream, and cover with paraffin or but-
tered wrapping paper before placing the cover. Pack it
in a mixture of ice and salt in proportions to produce a
fine or coarse texture as desired.
Orange Bombe Glace
Fill a mold two-thirds full of orange juice to which
the juice of one lemon and sugar as desired have been
added. Fill the mold to overflowing with tw© cupfuls of
heavy cream, whipped, sweetened with one-half of a
cupful of powdered sugar, and flavored with one tea-
spoonful of vanilla. Cover the top with paraffin paper
or buttered wrapping paper, fit the cover on tightly, and
bury in ice and salt mixture for five or six hours. One
cupful of broken walnut meats added to the whipped
cream is a delicious variation.
Coffee Ice Cream
Scald, in a double boiler, one pint of milk with one-half
cupful of dry coffee. Strain onto three slightly beaten
368 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
eggs, one cupful of sugar, and one-fourth teaspoonful of
salt. Return to fire and cook until mixture coats the
spoon. Add one quart of cream and freeze. Serve with
Marshmallow Sauce
In the upper part of a double boiler, put one-fourth
pound of marshmallows. When melted, pour on a syrup
made by boiling one cupful of sugar and one-fourth cup-
ful of water ten minutes. Add one-half teaspoonful of
vanilla and cool.
Marmalade-Parfait
Put half a cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a
cupful of cold water in a saucepan and stir over a
moderate heat until the sugar is dissolved; then let it
cook slowly without stirring until a little dropped in cold
water will form a ball rolled between the fingers. Re-
move immediately from the fire, and pour slowly upon the
stiffly whipped whites of three eggs, beating constantly
until cold, and then fold in a pint of whipped cream and
three tablespoonfuls of orange- marmalade (be careful
not to let any liquid that may have drained from the
cream go into the par fait). Tour at once into a water-
tight mold and bury in ice and rock-salt for three hours
before serving.
Marshmallow Parfait
Make a syrup by boiling together in a granite
saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar and one cupful
of water until it spins a thread, then pour, while boiling
JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 369
hot, on the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, and con-
tinue beating to a smooth, creamy mass, gradually whip-
ping in one pint of whipped cream. Flavor to taste and
put into the freezer. Turn the handle for four or five
minutes, and when frozen to the consistency of mush,
stir in one cupful of chopped nut meats, and cut up
marshmallows. Freeze until firm and smooth, repacking
in ice and salt for two or three hours before serving.
Dolly Madison's Ice Cream
One full pint of milk, one cupful of white sugar, four
tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, two well-beaten eggs. Let
the milk come to a boil. Beat the eggs, sugar, and flour
together, stir these into the boiling milk, and let all cook
for twenty minutes. When cold add one teacupful of
sugar and one quart of rich sweet cream. Flavor with
a vanilla bean, which should be put in the milk to boil.
Put into a freezer and turn until hard.
Dolly Madison's Frozen Custard
Boil together one quart of milk and a small teacupful
of sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and
one teaspoonful of sifted flour. When cold add the
beaten whites of the eggs and one pint of rich cream.
Drop into the boiling milk a sprig of peach-tree leaves,
which imparts a flavor resembling almond essence. Re-
move the sprigs just before freezing.
Mint Fruit Sherbet
Place in a large mixing bowl a bunch of fresh mint,
bruise the leaves, and pour upon them a quart of boiling
370 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
hot sugar syrup; then add the juice of two lemons and
the grated rind of one, the pulp of half a pineapple, and
a tiny pinch of ground cinnamon ; cover the contents of
the bowl closely and let stand until quite cold. Have in
readiness a chilled freezer, into which is strained the
fruit puree, and after adjusting the cover, freeze to the
consistency of soft snow ; now pour in slowly the stiffly
whipped whites of two eggs, the other half of the pine-
apple flaked into tiny particles and a tablespoonful of
grated cocoanut. Continue freezing until firm and
smooth. Serve in small crystal or glass sherbet cups,
covered with minced candied orange peel.
MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 371
372 MORE W AYS OF MAKING DESSERTS
MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 373
374 MORE ll'AYS OP MAKIXG DESSERTS
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE
X cake-making, correct measurements are par-
ticularly necessary. Good judgment and ex-
perience have taught some cooks to measure
by sight, but the majority need accurate
guides. Use standard measuring cups, prefer-
ably glass, the regulation tea- and table-
spoons, and a case-knife to level the measures.
For the mixing and beating, a wooden spoon with slits is
good.
Only the best ingredients are worthy to be made into
cake. Economize on the quantity, but never on the
quality, of materials. Coarse granulated sugar is apt to
give a coarse texture, so choose the fine granulated for
cakes. Bread flour contains more of the stick}' gluten
than pastry flour, therefore cake made with it is never so
light and tender. All baking-powder mixtures are better
when the more easily raised pastry flour is used. But
if bread flour must be used, measure two tablespoonfuls
less for every cupful called for in a recipe. Xever try to
put a cake together until all the ingredients are measured
and ready, the pans are properly buttered, and the fire
is attended to. The fire must last without replenishing
until the baking is completed.
Sponge Cake
Sponge cakes depend for their lightness upon the
amount of air which is beaten into the mixture before
375
376 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
baking. The following is a safe general rule. It is often
varied, and with good results, provided a larger amount
of air is entangled in the batter. Xever stir a sponge
cake batter, as the air already entangled is thus allowed
to escape. Beating, cutting, and folding are the correct
strokes.
Separate the eggs and beat the yolks until very thick
and lemon-colored ; beat the whites until stiff and dry.
Add the sugar to the yolks and beat again, then add the
flavoring. Beat in the whites and finally cut and fold
in the flour sifted with the salt. For this stroke use a
case-knife, adding the flour gradually and cutting it in.
Xever stir it. Three eggs, one-half cupful of sugar,
one-half cupful of flour, a pinch of salt, one teaspoonful
of lemon juice, and grated rind from one-half a lemon
are the correct proportions for a small loaf.
Butter Cakes
Butter cakes depend for their lightness upon the gas
carbon dioxide obtained from baking powder or soda
and cream of tartar. There are almost as many methods
for putting together a batter as there are cakes. The
following is not the only correct method, but any butter
cake may be put together with success by just this
method. It is a safe one to learn and use when only
proportions are known. Measure the dry ingredients
and mix and sift all save the sugar together. Measure
the butter, -and cream it with the sugar. I '.utter may be
softened by leaving it in a warm room; measure by
packing it solid and level into the cup or spoon. Heat
with a wooden spoon until light and creamy. Add the
yolks of the eggs or the whole eggs, beaten until light,
. \
Flag Cakes: Any Cake may be cut in Oblongs and iced in
Plain White, then decorated with red Candies to
form the Stripes and blue Candies to form
the Stars of The Flag.
\
Date Sandwiches: Lady Fingers with a Filling of Chopped
Date and Nut Meats. For the Afternoon
Tea Tray.
AY</ (///</ ll'h'itc Currant anil Raspberry.
AYf/'/v on /'(///<' _>;•/.
Cherry Salad.
Recipe on Payc _'7^.
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 377
the liquid, and then the flour, or the two latter may be
added alternately, always beginning with the flour. Add
the whites last if they alone are used or if they are beaten
separately, in order not to lose the air beaten into them.
Beating alone makes a cake fine-grained, but a cake
may be light and tender, thoroughly eatable, with but
little beating. Never stir a cake after the final beating,
because, as with the sponge cake, the air is thus allowed
to escape.
Fruit, when added immediately after the sugar, as in
dark fruit cake, need not be floured. When this cannot
be done on account of discoloring the batter, the fruit
must be floured and beaten in last. Another good way
is to fill the pans half full with plain batter, then add
the floured fruit to remaining batter and put in pans.
Butter the pans thoroughly, then dredge with flour,
shaking all the superfluous flour from the pan. A narrow
strip of buttered paper, reaching over the sides, may be
used in a well-buttered pan.
In filling, be especially careful to fill corners and sides,
leaving a slight depression in the center. When baked
the cake will then be flat on top. Many blame the oven
or the batter for a "hilly" cake, when it is merely the
way the batter was heaped in the pan.
Mysteries of Baking
Much, after all, depends on the baking. Many a prom-
ising cake has been ruined in the oven because there
must be so much left to individual judgment. There
are no hard-and-fast rules which can be laid down for
cake baking. The stereotyped cooking-school rule is help-
ful. It divides the time into quarters : in the first quarter,
378 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
the batter rises ; in the second quarter it continues to rise
and begins to brown ; in the third quarter it continues
browning ; in the fourth quarter it finishes baking and
shrinks from pan.
If the oven is too hot the back covers may be raised.
It is safer to put a pan of cold water into the oven rather
than to put a paper over the cake, as is commonly done
to prevent burning. As soon as heated, refill with cold
water, if necessary.
Do not move a cake until it is risen to its full height ;
after that there is no danger of its falling. Open the
oven door as often as necessary, provided it be done
carefully and slowly. It is the rush of cold air into the
oven which causes the cake to fall.
Fruit cake and pound cake are done when they are
firm yet springy to the touch. With other cakes, the
best test is the shrinking from the pans. Keep the oven
heat uniform and do not attempt to use the oven for any-
thing save the cakes. A slow oven causes a coarse-
textured cake, while too hot an oven will make the cake
crack in the center.
Invert the cake, after baking, on a wire cake rest. If
it sticks, loosen around edges with a knife and leave it
inverted, to lie helped out by its own weight.
If boiled frosting is made, the cake may be hot or cold
when it is frosted, but never put an uncooked frosting on
a cold cake.
Shaker Nut Cake
One-half cupful of butter, one cupful of light brown
>ugar, two beaten eggs, one-half cupful of water, one
teaspoonful of lemon, one and one-half cupfuls of flour
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 379
sifted with one teaspoonful of baking- powder, one cupful
of hickory or butternut meats, coarsely chopped. Bake
in three round, shallow pans, in a slow oven. Cool and
put together with maple fondant (made with maple sugar
like ordinary boiled frosting), ornamenting the top of
the loaf with nut meats which have been sparingly
sprinkled with salt and baked for ten minutes in a mod-
erate oven. This renders nuts much more toothsome as
well as digestible.
Apple Sauce Cake
One cupful of unsweetened apple sauce, one and one-
half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of shortening, yolk
of one egg, one level teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-half
teaspoonful of cloves, one-half level teaspoonful of soda,
one level teaspoonful of baking powder, and two cupfuls
of flour. Strain apple sauce through a sieve, add the
soda, melted shortening, and flour sifted with baking
powder and spices. Beat all together thoroughly and
bake in two layers. Put together with a simple frosting.
Crispettes
Beat two eggs and stir into them a cupful of white and
brown sugar, mixed, and four tablespoonfuls of sifted
flour, then a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Beat thoroughly and add a cupful of English walnuts,
chopped fine. Drop the dough by the teaspoonful into
buttered pans, allowing three inches for cakes to spread.
These are delicious for afternoon tea, or when served
with fruit for dessert.
380 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Peter Pans
One-half cupful of equal parts of butter and lard,
one-half cupful of dark brown sugar, one egg", well beaten,
one-half cupful of Porto Rico molasses, two-thirds cupful
of slightly soured milk, one teaspoonful of powdered
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. In two
cupfuls of sifted flour thoroughly blend one teaspoonful
of soda, one-half cupful each of finely chopped raisins
and nuts. Cream butter and lard with sugar; add the
ingredients in the order given, beating all very thor-
oughly ; bake in well-buttered small patty tins or drop
on well-buttered tins and bake in hot oven. Desirable
for teas and luncheon*.
Hot Water Spice Cake
Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three table-
spoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of
molasses, one teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, and
lemon extract, two cupfuls of llour, one-half cupful of
chopped raisins, one teaspoonful of soda, one cupful of
boiling water. Mix in order given, sifting cloves and
cinnamon with the flour and adding the soda dissolved
in the boiling water the last thing. Hake in layers in
a moderate oven. Use the whites of the eggs for frosting.
Hot Water Chocolate Cake
Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful of sugar,
yolk of one egg. two squares of chocolate cooked in one-
half cupful of boiling water, one teaspoonful of soda
dissolved in one-half cupful of boiling water, one tea-
spoonful of baking powder sifted with one and one-half
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 381
cupfuls of flour, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix
in order given and bake in a square loaf in a moderate
oven for thirty minutes. Cover with boiled frosting,
using the white of the egg left from the cake for the
frosting. It is rather unusual to have both soda and
baking powder as called for in this recipe, but it is im-
possible to get light spongy cake if a larger amount of
one alone is used. Follow the directions exactly and
you will be surprised at the delicious cake which is the
result.
Maple Drop Cakes
Two cupfuls of maple syrup, one-half cupful of cream
or milk, two eggs, one-half cupful of melted butter, three
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and flour enough to make
a soft batter. Bake in gem pans.
Oatmeal Drops
One cupful each of sugar and butter, creamed together,
two eggs, two cupfuls each of flour and rolled oats, five
tablespoonfuls of milk, one' teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-
half teaspoonful each of salt and soda sifted with the
flour, one cupful each of raisins and English walnuts
finely chopped. Mix nuts and raisins before putting
through the chopper. Drop the dough by half-teaspoons,
a couple of inches apart, on inverted pans or rimless tin
sheets and bake in a moderate oven.
Rich Short Bread
Rub to a cream three-fourths of a pound of butter, add
one-half cupful of sugar, the beaten yolks of four eggs.
382 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
and one pound of flour. Stir in the peel of one lemon
and one-half cupful of blanched almonds, both finely
chopped. Knead this till it is a smooth dough and roll
out on a floured board to the thickness of one-fourth of
an inch or more. Cut into squares. Have ready a plate
of finely chopped candied peel, nuts, shredded citron, and
a little sugar. Into this lay one side of each square
before putting them in the pan to bake. The mixture
will adhere to the cakes more satisfactorily than when
sprinkled on.
Scotch Cookies
Two and one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, two and one-
half cupfuls of flour (leaving out one-half cupful for
rolling), one cupful of sugar, two eggs, three tablespoon-
fuls of milk, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of soda,
one-half cupful of butter, one-third cupful of beef drip-
pings, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of
spices — cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove mixed. Cream
shortening and sugar; add eggs, well beaten, and the
milk in which the soda has been dissolved. Mix the
remaining ingredients, then stir all together. Set aside
to get cold before rolling thin. All cookies containing
rolled oats need a sharp cutter. This rule makes a large
quantity.
Fruit Bars
Mix two and one-half cupfuls of flour, scant two and
one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, one cupful each of butter
and brown sugar, one-half cupful of sour milk, and one
JUST HOll7 TO MAKE CAKE 383
teaspoonful of soda. Flour the board generously, roll
thin, and cut with a narrow, oblong cutter. Stone and
put through a chopper one and one-half pounds of dates,
roll this mass also into a thin sheet, and cut with same
cutter. Put a layer of date paste between every two of
the cooky dough, sandwich fashion, and bake in a hot
oven. When cold pack edgewise in a jar — and hide the
jar. Ordinary cooky dough may be manipulated suc-
cessfully, in a similar way. Cut out in circles and use
jelly, chopped figs and pecans, chopped candied fruits;
in fact, any appetizing mixture of this sort, for a filling.
Lay a teaspoonful of ' sweetmeats ' in the center of a
round ; wet edges with milk before covering with a second
circle ; press edges together and bake quickly.
Gingersnaps
If gingersnap dough is mixed at night and stands in
a cool place till morning, it can be handled far more
easily and with less flour. It makes these wafers de-
licious to leave out the ground ginger and add preserved
ginger finely chopped instead. This simple recipe is ex-
cellent : One cupful of best Porto Rico molasses — scald
and cool — one-half cupful of softened butter, one-half
teaspoonful each of soda and salt, one teaspoonful of
yellow ginger and flour to roll very thin. Cut into rounds
and bake in a moderate oven. . Molasses mixtures burn
easily.
Marshmallow Cake
Beat one-half cupful of butter to a cream, add one and
one-half cupfuls of sugar gradually, and beat until
384 THE PURE FOOD COOK HOOK
creamy. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk with
two cupfuls of flour into which have been sifted three
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat the whites of five
eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add one-eighth of a teaspoonful
of salt. Fold gently into the batter, and when well
mixed add one-half of a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake in
shallow, round tins and when cool fill with marshmallow
filling made as follows :
Marshmallow Filling
Add two cupfuls of sugar to one-half cupful of milk,
heat slowly to boiling point, and boil five minutes. Break
one-half a pound of marshmallows into pieces and melt
in the double boiler. Add four tablespoonfuls of hot
water and cook until the mixture is smooth. Add the
milk syrup to this, stirring steadily. Take from the fire
and beat until cool and thick enough to spread. Add
one-half teaspoonful of vanilla, and then spread between
the cake. This may be used for the top as well, or an
extra frosting made with one cupful of fondant, the
white of an egg. beaten until stiff, and one-fourth tea-
spoonful of vanilla. Melt the fondant, add the white of
the egg, and stir over the fire, for a couple of minutes.
Remove and beat until cool and stiff enough to spread.
Flavor with vanilla and lemon juice.
Chocolate Gingerbread
Place in a mixing bowl half a cupful of molasses, one
tablespoonful each of melted lard and butter, half a cupful
of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.
a quarter of a teaspoonful each of grated nutmeg and
ground ginger, and a heaping tablespoonful of grated
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 385
sweet chocolate mixed to a paste with a little warm
water ; blend the ingredients thoroughly and then stir
in one teaspoonful of baking soda, dissolved in a small
cupful of sour cream and sufficient sifted flour to form
a cake batter. Pour into an oblong greased cake pan
and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven,
covering when cold with a chocolate frosting.
Buttermilk Gingerbread
One large cupful of molasses, one well-beaten egg, two-
thirds cupful of buttermilk ; fill the cup up with any
shortening, two teaspoonfuls of soda, a pinch of salt, one
tablespoonful of ginger, and flour enough to make a
pouring batter.
Devil's Food Pudding
Mix together one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of
butter, and one-third of a cake of chocolate (melted) ;
then add two well-beaten eggs, half a cupful of sour
milk, one teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little
hot water, and about two cupfuls of sifted flour ; beat
until very light, flavoring with half a teaspoonful of
vanilla extract, and bake in layer greased cake pans,
allowing about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.
Mocha Cake
One cupful of sugar, one cupful of flour, one tea-
spoonful of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda,
one large tablespoonful of melted butter, one-half cupful
of boiling milk, two eggs, not beaten. Sift the flour,
sugar, cream of tartar, and soda together twice. Add the
386 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
butter, then break in the eggs, beat. Add the milk last.
Beat thoroughly. Bake in a moderate oven twenty
minutes.
Mocha Frosting
One cupful of powdered sugar, a small piece of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of coffee, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla.
Cream the butter and sugar and add the cocoa, then
coffee and vanilla. Add more sugar, if necessary.
Spread with a knife dipped in hot water.
Mary's Cake
One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of
butter, one cupful of tepid water, two and one-half cup-
fuls of Hour, one teaspoonful of almond extract, two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of
salt. Whites of four eggs. I'.ake in layers, in a quick
oven.
Filling for Mary's Cake
One cupful of sour cream, one cupful of sugar, boil,
then beat in yolks of four eggs and one cupful of chopped
nuts, with one-half teaspoonful of vanilla.
Buttermilk Cake
Two cupfuls of coffee C sugar, one cupful of butter,
two cupfuls of buttermilk, two level teaspoonfuls of soda,
one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful
each of cloves and nutmeg, one cupful each of seeded
raisins and currants, and flour to make a not too stiff
batter.
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 387
Feather Cakes
Cream a quarter of a cupful of butter, gradually add
one cupful of sugar, yolks of two eggs, half a cupful of
milk, and one and one-half cupfuls of flour, mixed and
sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, fold into
the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and add a quarter of
a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake forty minutes in a mod-
erate oven. Cover with white frosting.
Date Cookies
Have ready a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter,
half a teaspoonful of baking powder, two cupfuls of
flour, the yolk of an egg, a cupful of chopped dates,
and enough milk to moisten. Cream the butter and sugar
and add the egg yolk beaten with a little milk. Add the
dates and the mixture of moist ingredients. Add more
milk if the dough is too stiff to roll out. Cut out thin
cookies and bake. As this rule makes as many as sixty
cookies, the dough for variety's sake may be divided into
several parts and each part flavored in a different fashion,
chopped dates being used in only one portion. Another
may be flavored with orange, a third with lemon, and a
fourth with chocolate. Cocoanut may be used in the
fifth. Orange rind and cocoanut together will make
delicious cookies.
Black Rocks
One and a half cupfuls of brown sugar, a scant cupful
of shortening, three eggs, half a teaspoonful of ground
cinnamon, three-fourths of a cupful of raisins cut in
small pieces, half a cupful of chopped walnut meats, one
388 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
teaspoonful of vanilla, five tablespoonfuls of hot water,
one teaspoonful of soda, and one teaspoonful of baking
powder stirred into three cupfuls of flour. Beat well and
drop from a spoon onto buttered pans. Bake in a mod-
erate oven.
Chocolate Crisps
Turn into a mixing bowl three tablespoonfuls of grated
chocolate, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, a pinch each
of ground cinnamon and nutmeg, half a cupful of brown
sugar, and half a cupful of mixed shortening and butter
(melted). Mix these ingredients thoroughly and then
add half a cupful of thick sour cream in which a scant
teaspoonful of baking soda has been dissolved, and suf-
ficient sifted pastry flour to form a cooky dough; roll
out on the bread board into a very thin sheet and with
a cutter stamp into thin wafers; dust these lightly with
grated sweet chocolate and bake in a quick oven for about
seven minutes.
Butter Cakes
One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of brown sugar,
three cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of ground cin-
namon, and one egg. Cream butter and sugar, add cin-
namon and egg, add a little flour at a time, knead until
well mixed, roll out on a cake board one-quarter of an
inch thick, cut with cake cutter. Bake in a hot oven
until brown. These are delicious with afternoon tea.
Buttermilk Cookies
Cream two cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of butter,
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 389
add one cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of soda,
spices or flavoring to taste, and flour sufficient to roll.
Lace Cakes
Mix thoroughly together one tablespoonful of melted
butter, one cupful of granulated sugar, two well-beaten
eggs, one teaspoonful of vanilla, a little grated nutmeg,
and two and a half cupfuls of oatmeal into which have
been stirred two and a half teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Have the batter quite stiff and drop by the
teaspoonful on a buttered baking sheet, having them
about an inch apart. Bake in a moderate oven until
crisp and brown on the edges.
Coffee Squares
Cream one-half cupful of sugar with the same quantity
of butter, adding one well-beaten egg, half a cupful of
strained black coffee, a pinch of salt, half a cupful of
milk, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted with
two cupfuls of flour; beat thoroughly and then stir in
half a cupful of floured currants. Pour into a well-
buttered square pan, and after sprinkling with cinnamon
and powdered sugar bake in a moderate oven for three-
quarters of an hour. Cut when cold into small squares.
Orange Puffs with Orange Sauce
Make a cake mixture, using half a cupful of butter,
a cupful of sugar, two eggs, three-fourths of a cupful
of milk, two cupfuls of flour, four teaspoonfuls of bak-
ing powder, and half a teaspoonful of orange extract.
Bake in muffin pans and serve hot with orange sauce.
390 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Orange Sauce
Mix half a cupful of sugar with one and a half table-
cpoonfuls of cornstarch, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful
of salt. Add a cupful of boiling water and boil five
minutes. Add the grated rind and juice of two oranges
and two tablespoonfuls of butter.
Choux Pastry
Put four tablespoons of butter into a saucepan, add
a cupful of water, bring to boiling point, add quickly two
cupfuls of sifted Hour and a pinch of salt, stir well with
a wooden spoon until the mixture leaves the sides of the
pan, remove from the fire, allow to cool, but not become
cold, add four eggs, beating each one thoroughly in.
Put away in a cool place for one hour. Put into a
forcing bag with a plain tube and force on to a baking
tin into small rounds, brush over with beaten egg, and
bake in a hot oven for thirty minute-. \\ hen cold split
them open on one side and fill them with orange filling.
Sprinkle powdered sugar on the top. For the orange
filling, melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan,
add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs,
grated rind, and strained juice of one orange, and stir
over the fire till the mixture thickens, but do not allow
it to boil. Then add one dessertspoonful of cake crumbs
and one teaspoonful of lemon juice; when cold, the mix-
ture is ready for use.
Bangor Brownies
Cream one-half cupful of butter with one cupful of
sugar, add three squares of chocolate (melted), two eggs
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 391
slightly beaten, one cup of chopped walnuts, and one-half
cupful of sifted flour. Bake in a thin layer, on a cooky
sheet, for ten minutes in a moderate oven. When done,
cut in strips or squares.
Acorn Cakes
Cream half a cupful of butter with one and three-
quarter cupfuls of sugar, add two well-beaten eggs, half
a cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of baking soda,
one-third cupful of melted chocolate, three cupfuls of
sifted flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, half a
cupful of chopped nut meats, one teaspoonfu} of vanilla
extract, and two-thirds cupful of water. Mix and pour
into a shallow, buttered cake tin, and bake in a moderate
oven for three-quarters of an hour. Cool and cut into
squares. Cover writh white frosting and decorate with
candy acorns.
Valentine Cakes
Cream half a cupful of butter with two cupfuls of
sugar and add one cupful of sweet milk, alternately with
two cupfuls of flour mixed and sifted with two teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder. Fold in the well-beaten whites
of four eggs and flavor with vanilla. Bake in a square
pan. When cool cut into hearts, using a heart cutter,
cover with a chocolate icing over which sprinkle cocoa-
nut. For the icing, place one cupful and a half of sugar
with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a third of a cake
of chocolate in a saucepan and boil until it will rope when
poured from the spoon. Pour this over the beaten whites
of two eggs. Beat until it thickens.
392 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
Sugar Cookies
Cream two cupfuls of sugar with one cupful of butter,
or other shortening, add two well-beaten eggs, and beat
till very light. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk
and one cupful of Hour sifted with one-half teaspoonful
of salt and one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Then add enough more flour to make a dough
stiff enough to roll out. Cut with a biscuit cutter,
sprinkle wijh granulated sugar, and bake in a quick oven.
They may be flavored with lemon, or vanilla if preferred.
Soft Molasses Cookies
( )ne cupful of butter, one cupful of brown sugar, one
cupful of molasses, brown Porto Rico, one cupful of
sour milk, two teaspoon fuls of soda, one teaspoonful of
ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, two large teaspoon-
fuls of vinegar. Make very soft with flour and bake in
a moderate oven. They burn very easily.
Chocolate Nut Wafers
Mix in the order given: one cupful of sugar, two
squares melted chocolate, one-half cupful melted butter,
yolks and whites of two eggs beaten separately and then
together, one-half cupful flour. Spread very thinly over
cooky sheet and sprinkle on it one cup of coarsely
chopped nut meats. Bake not too brown. Cut in oblongs
and remove. This makes a large quantity. They are
popular for teas or with ice cream or frappe.
JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 393
Chocolate Cake
Cream one tablespoonful of butter with one cupful of
sugar, and add the beaten yolk of one egg. Add one-
half cupful of milk and three-quarters of a cupful of
sifted flour. Add one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved
in a little water and then two squares of melted chocolate,
one teaspoonful of vanilla, and another half-cupful of
milk ; finally add three-quarters of a cupful of flour sifted
with one-half teaspoonful of baking powder and a half-
teaspoonful of salt. Beat together thoroughly. The
mixture will be thinner than the average cake batter.
Bake in a moderate oven. Frost while hot.
Graham Torte
Separate five eggs ; beat the yolks until thick and yel-
low, then add two level cupfuls of granulated sugar and
cream together. Grind enough graham crackers in the
food chopper to make one and one-half cupfuls. Stir into
this one teaspoonful of baking powder and one-half tea-
spoonful of salt. Add to the sugar and egg mixture
with one cupful of ground nutmeats. Finally, cut in the
whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in two layer
cake pans. Make the filling as follows : Heat one cupful
of milk with one cupful of sugar in a double boiler, add
one tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a very little cold
milk. Stir while it thickens, then cook fifteen minutes ;
pour over a beaten egg, return to the double boiler for
a moment's cooking. Then add one teaspoonful vanilla,
and set away to cool. Serve the torte with this filling
and with whipped cream on top.
394 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE
MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 395
396 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE
MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 397
398 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE
JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE
HEN practically all coffees were sold as either
Java or Java and Mocha, the housekeeper
was perfectly satisfied. She knew exactly
what it was she wanted, and expected to get
it at whatever price suited her fancy. When
she objected to paying thirty-five to forty
cents the pound there was not the slightest
difficulty in accommodating her, and even at less than
twenty cents, pound packages could be obtained, branded
in large type with the magic words, ' Old Government
Java and Mocha Coffee."
A great change in the methods of preparing and label-
ing foods has taken place within the last few years due
to the enactment of the Food and Drugs Act of June
3Oth, 1906. A multitude of masqueraders have been
unmasked, and many thousands of packages must now
stand forth for what they really are. The housekeeper
is all at sea. The coffee does not taste the same as it
used to. Great has been the fall, far-reaching the frauds
that have been stopped. Therefore, it is not strange to
find the housekeeper slow to look with favor on the
package commodity that for many years has been grossly
misrepresented.
Briefly, a few of the coffees that were offered under a
Java and Mocha label and that found favor so long as
the price was low and they made a good appearance, were
as follows : Santos coffee from Brazil was the worst
offender, for the reason that about three times more
399
400 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
coffee is grown there than is grown in all the other
coffee-producing countries put together, and naturally
over seventy-five per cent, of our breakfast beverage
is that particular growth. Santos coffees were packed
straight or in combination with small amounts of other
coffees as Java, or Java and Mocha, and sold at the
lowest possible figures. When a slightly better value
was desired, a percentage of Maracaibo was used with
Santos or with the smaller bean Bourbon-Santos, this
latter combination more nearly resembling the genuine
Java and Mocha in appearance.
Other packers claimed that a Bucaramanga was not
only similar in style to a Sumatra coffee, then known as
Java, but of the same character in the cup. SonTe deal-
ers have even contended that it was impossible to detect
any difference. There were therefore combinations of
Bucaramanga and small bean Bourbon-Santos sold as
Java and Mocha.
A degree higher in cup quality, as well as in price, are
combinations of Bogota and Bourbon-Santos. Eliminat-
ing the packages containing Brazil coffee only, and no
other combination of coffees has had so wide a distribu-
tion as Java and Mocha. An acid Bourbon-Santos is
the nearest approach in the cup to Mocha of any coffee
grown, and it is supposed to have been cultivated in the
first instance from Mocha seed. In appearance it is far
superior to the irregular quakerish Mocha, though
usually equally inferior in the cup. This is not always
the case, as there are \vincy Uourbon coffees that out-
drink some of the world- famed coffees from Arabia,
although such coffees are rare.
Bogota (Colombian coffee ) found a market as Java, or,
in connection with Bourbon-Santos, as Java and Mocha,
for three reasons : First, the price was less than de-
JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 401
manded for coffees from the Dutch East Indies. Sec-
ond, the roast was very much handsomer than that of
coffees from Java or Sumatra, excepting certain washed
types. Third, on account of the real merit there is in
this growth of coffee.
It should be noted that some of the finest coffees
grown, equaling if not exceeding the coffees of the
Dutch East Indies, are produced in Colombia (Bogota),
Guatemala, and in Mexico.
It has been frequently stated that the housekeeper
was more or less responsible for the misbranding of
coffee. There is some truth in the statement, for the
consumer has insisted upon obtaining Java and Mocha
at whatever price it was their purpose to pay. How-
ever that may be, it also is quite true that the buyer for
the most part received fair value for the amount paid.
Whose ever the fault, the fact remains that under the
proper labels many brands are for the most part de-
cidedly unsatisfactory in the cup. The housekeeper is
beginning to realize that she has been purchasing a
much lower grade of goods than she supposed. In other
words, the veneer is off, the true material stands re-
vealed, and she doesn't like it because it is not what she
supposed it to be.
Naturally the questions arise, What is a good coffee?
How is the purchaser to know what to ask for, and is it
possible to get Java and Mocha? In this discussion we
must eliminate coffees bought for a price, or those bought
for a premium. Neither of these propositions results in
satisfactory brands of coffees.
Rio coffee is harsh and unpleasant in taste, and de-
mand for it is rapidly decreasing. Santos coffees with
even a touch of the harsh Rio tang are to be avoided,
and although smooth drinking Santos coffees have a
402 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
place, they are rather lacking in character and snap. A
combination of Venezuelan coffee known as Maracaibo
with Santos is the next step toward desirable cup re-
sults. This coffee, however, is inclined to be irregular
in roast and does not produce uniform results in the
cup, as it is inclined to turn bitter if permitted to stand
even a short time.
Maracaibo coffees, as a rule, are heavier in the cup
than Santos, more decided in character, but more uncer-
tain in cup results. They are also inclined to be irregular
roasters.
Above this we reach the coffee of Colombia known as
Bogota. Many satisfactory blends are combinations of
Bogota and Bourbon-Santos in varying proportions.
There is nothing in a moderate price coffee that will
give better results than a blend composed of two parts
full-bodied Bogota and one part acid Bourbon-Santos.
Properly made a smooth palatable liquor results,
r.ogota coffee develops into a large handsome bean, a
uniform roaster, full of flavor, body, and aroma. The
stripe down the center of the bean is pronounced and
at one end this stripe is inclined to make a slight twist
or turn. It is a very satisfactory coffee to use alone,
and if the housewife can purchase a good Bogota it is
always possible for her to prepare a good cup of
coffee.
These are the growths of really fine coffees. There
are of course, Segundas, or second grades, many of
which drink well, but we are considering only the fancy
types. Blends composed of Bogota together with a
Guatemalan, or a Mexican coffee or both, produce some
of the highest types obtainable. A Guatemala has a
lighter body, is slightly smoother in appearance than a
Bogota and has a straight stripe inclined to open some-
JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 403
what wider. It is full of aroma and gives forth a spicy
fragrance that is most delightful.
The Mexican bean is usually smaller, slightly more
rounded, and roasts with a more open stripe than either
of the two coffees just mentioned. It has a heavy acid
character which blends particularly well with a smooth
Bogota, while the Guatemala adds the delicate aroma
peculiar in this coffee.
As against coffees from the Dutch East Indies it is
merely a matter of preference. Coffee drinkers that are
looking for the musty character of the Old Crop Sumatra
coffee find this character only in such coffees. It is
the coffee now known as Interior Padang grown in
Sumatra which was formerly the Old Government Java.
The coffee is an irregular roaster due to the method of
curing and ageing. All coffees improve by being held in
the warehouse, but no coffees are now mellowed by being
stored for varying periods of time as was formerly the
case with the coffees controlled by the Dutch Govern-
ment. In addition to this, the long voyage under a
tropical sun around the Horn in sailing vessels further
mellowed and colored the coffee. These coffees are
no longer held, as used to be the case, and it is probable
that the last sailing vessel from the Dutch East Indies
to bring in a cargo of coffee arrived in May, 1913. The
coffees in future will come forward in the faster steam
vessels and the benefit of the long voyage will be lost.
The coffee actually grown on the island of Java and
now sold as genuine Java is a large smooth roasting bean
with a straight regular stripe. The cup character is
quite different from the Padang coffees, but it is very
much smoother and has an individual quality easily
detectable.
The Mocha coffee of Arabia is a small irregular bean,
404 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
one of the poorest roasting coffees grown, containing a
considerable quantity of broken and misshapen berries.
In the cup its merit is at once apparent, as it has a pe-
culiar winey acid reproduced in no other coffee. A
straight Arabian Mocha made full strength furnishes a
most excellent after-dinner coffee.
There are innumerable combinations that may be
made up by using coffee from the Dutch East Indies
together with the three superior growths of the western
hemisphere. It is quite apparent that such combinations
are necessary in order to satisfy the different demands
of the various consumers.
If you would have the best flavored coffee, buy it in
the bean and grind it fresh each time it is to be made.
If a method of making coffee is selected which demands
pulverized coffee, the most satisfactory mill is a hand-
driven miniature of the type used in the shops, run by
hand or motor power. The cheaper mills are satisfactory
when fine granular coffee is desired; they can be ad-
justed from " very fine ' to " coarse ' and can be ob-
tained at practically all prices.
Actual tests in coffee making show a remarkable in-
crease in strength, the more finely ground is the coffee.
Each granule of ground coffee consists of minute com-
partments which are broken into more and more as the
berry is more finely ground. The coarser the grind the
less the yield. The finer the grind the quicker and
stronger the yield.
No less important is the fresh grinding, for coffee, even
in the tightest of containers, depreciates in flavor very
fast. Coffee pulverized fresh each day for four days
wras tested blind at the expiration of that time. Each
day's grinding was readily identified, some flavor and
aroma being lost with each day's standing. So notice-
t
JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 405
able is this, that when fresh ground coffee is used, the
familiar " spoonful to the pot " may be omitted with no
loss in strength.
There are four common methods of making coffee :
boiling, steeping, percolating, and filtering.
To boil coffee is practically to spoil coffee, for in the
process the coarse fibrous shell is broken down and
adds its crude flavor to the delicate flavor oils of the
coffee bean. Moreover, the liquid must be " cleared '
with eggs, adding a foreign matter which is no improve-
ment in flavor. Finally this method yields a relatively
high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin, and it
is the latter especially that dietitians now question as
possibly harmful to certain individuals.
When coffee is 'steeped," it is placed in cold water,
brought quickly to a boil, then removed and settled with
a dash of cold water. As in the boiled coffee the coffee
is used ground " medium fine." Practically the same
criticisms may be made to this method : Perfectly clear
coffee is difficult to obtain ; the full aromatic flavor is
prevented, because other elements injurious to flavor
are extracted ; and this method too yields a high per
cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin.
Percolating coffee results in a practically clear bever-
age. Many users of percolators think that the boiling of
the water forces it to rise through the tube. Instead, it
is the force of condensation, and the temperature ranges
between 130 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahren-
heit. The water does not boil at all. Percolating coffee
produces clear coffee and a better flavor to many palates
than the previous methods, but this method also shows
a high per cent, of caffeine and coffee-tannin. Thus it
seems to make little difference in regard to the tempera-
ture of the water as to the extraction of these com-
406 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK
pounds. Instead, it is the length of time the coffee is
in contact with the water. The quicker the coffee is
made, then, the less caffeine and coffee-tannin will be
present.
For this reason especially many will be interested in
the fourth method : filtering the coffee. Filtered coffee
is made so rapidly that only small per cents of caffeine
and coffee-tannin are present in the finished beverage,
while the flavor and aroma are excellent. In this method
only finely pulverized or powdered coffee can be used
successfully. In its simplest form fresh boiling water is
poured through the coffee held in a cloth strainer, above
a tea cup.
For some reason, certain metals have an effect on
coffee flavor, so the use of china or glass is advisable.
A recipe sanctioned by Dr. Wiley reads as follows :
How to Make Coffee
The best method of brewing coffee, as determined by
the Better Coffee-Making Committee of the National
Association of Coffee Roasters, after thorough experi-
ment, and correspondence with experts, including Dr.
Harvey \Y. Wiley:
Fill a kettle with fresh cold water and put it on to
boil. Place over an open china teapot, kept just for
coffee (as metal is deleterious), a clean, wet, old linen
napkin, or a new square of unbleached muslin, letting it
sag toward the center. Put into the depression four
heaping tablespoonfuls (for four cups of coffee) of
finely pulverized coffee. This fine pulverization is very
important. Ordinary ground coffee will not do at all,
and gives weak infusions.
JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 407
When the water in the kettle is boiling fiercely, pour
it through the coffee slowly until four cupfuls have gone
through, or a trifle more, for four cupfuls of coffee.
Cover and take at once to table.
Wash the cloth immediately after breakfast and keep
it in a jar of cold water, never permitting it to get dry,
and freshening the water every day. Keeping the cloth
sweet is absolutely essential. Every effort should be
made to this end. The least souring ruins the coffee.
Follow these directions strictly, paying special atten-
tion to having the coffee very fine, like flour, and the
water boiling, and you will have excellent coffee even
though you buy cheap blends.
4o8 MORE WAYS OF MAKIXG COFFEE
COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES
COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES
TITLE PAGE
Ambrosia 251
Angel Custard 257
Apple Custard 256
Apples, Baked, with Marsh-
mallow 252
Apples, Stuffed for Roast
Pork 230
Apricot Dumplings 247
Artichokes, Boiled Jerusa-
lem 327
Asparagus, Boiled 31?
Banana Compote 258
Barberry Preserve 306
Sauce 306
Beans, Red Kidney, with
Cheese in Chafing Dish. . 322
Beans, String 319
Beef, Braised with Oysters 207
" , Casserole of 210
Loaf — Mexican Sauce 217
Olives 219
" , Parker House Roast 215
Tongue en Casserole 212
Beefsteak, Just How to
Broil 202
Beefsteak, Rolled 216
Beet Chowder 353
Biscuit, Buttermilk 87
" , Buttermilk Spoon. 87
" , Sour Cream 88
" , Swedish 78
Black Rocks 387
Bobtee 218
Bombe Glace 367
Bouillon, Jellied 113
, Royal 113
Bread 70
" , Bishop's 86
" , Custard Corn 86
TITLE PAGE
Bread, Hominy Spoon... 87
" , Just How to Make. 75
, Nut 85
" , Pennsylvania Dutch 80
Puffs 80
Breakfast Breads, Just How
to Make Hot 81
Breakfast, What to Serve
for 12
Brioche Cakes 89
Brown Betty 244
Brownies, Bangor 390
Buckwheat Cakes 84
" 90
Bunuelos 245
Cabbage, Hors d'Oeuvre. . 329
Cake, Apple Sauce 379
, Buttermilk 386
, Chocolate 393
, Hot Water Chocolate 380
Hot Water Spice.... 380
Just How to Make. . 375
" Marshmallow 383
" Mary's 386
" Mocha 385
" Shaker 378
Sponge 375
Cakes, Acorn 391
" , Butter 3/6
" , " 388
" , Feather 387
" , Lace 389
" , Maple Drop 381
" , Valentine 391
Calves' Hearts 212
Cape Cod Creamed Fish
and Potatoes 165
Carrots, Mashed 323
" , Mint-Glazed 322
411
412
INDEX
TITLE I'AGE
Celery, Baked, with Cheese 324
" , Fried 32?
Cheese Cream, with Rice. . 105
Custard 138
Timbales 13?
Chestnut Stuffing 177
Chicken a la King (\Yal-
^dorf) 175
Chicken, Curried 180
Cutlets 1 80
, Fried 181
Rechauffe 179
, Roman 180
, Spanish Fricassee 178
Chocolate Crisps 388
Chowder, New England
Fish 159
Citron, Dried, for cakes,
mincemeat and confec-
tions 301
Citron-Melon, Baked, or
Sauce 302
Citron-Melon Chips 3°3
" Preserved . . 302
Cocoanut Blancmange . . . -'57
Codfish, Creamed 157
, Creamed Salt .... 165
" , Mexican 154
Puff 156
, Salpicon of 156
Coffee Cakes 79
, Just How to Make 406
Coffee. Just How to Buy
and Make 399
Coffee Souffle 252
Squares 389
Cookies, Buttermilk 388
, Date 387
, Scotch 382
, Soft Molasses . . . 392
, Sugar 392
Corn Cakes to Serve with
Meat 336
Corn Fritters, Belgian .... 331
Crab Meat, Flaked, in the
Chafing Dish 162
Crab Rabbit 162
Crabs and Shrimps, Span-
ish Style 162
TITLE PAGE
Cranberry Relish 231
Cream Scones 90
Crispettes 379
Croquettes, Celery 330
, Shad'Roe 165
Cucumber Catsup (Un-
cooked) 351
Currants, Spiced 352
Dandelions with Bacon. . . . 268
Desserts 237
Desserts, Just How to
Make 239
Devil's Food Pudding .... 385
Dinner, What to Serve for 13
Dressing, Chiffonade 276
, Chili 276
, Mayonnaise .... 275
, Roquefort Cheese 277
Egg, An English 136
, A Xew Deviled 131
Eggplant, Stuffed 335
Eggs 123
a la Golden Rod. . . . 136
and Cheese Cream.. 133
an Gratin 135
, naked, with Cheese. 135
, Belmont 136
" , Bollerino 131
Eggs, Bread, and Bacon in
Chafing Dish 134
Eggs, Crisfield, Scrambled. 134
Eggs, Deviled, a la Fro-
^mage 131
Eggs, Ham and Spanish. . . 132
, Hamburg 132
in Baked Potatoes.. 139
, Just How to Cook. . 128
" , How to Preserve. 125
" , Piquant Scrambled.. 135
Eggs, Poached, in Milk or
Cream 133
Eggs, Poached, with
Creamed Celery 132
Eggs, Scotch 134
Eggs, \Yhole, with Smoked
I'.eef 133
English Cottage Pie 218
INDEX
413
TITLE PAGE
Escallop of Green Corn... 334
Filling for Mary's Cake. . . 386
Fish 145
" , Just How to Cook. . . 147
" , Sauted 153
Stew 159
Frappe, Chocolate or Coffee 365
" , Cider 366
, Coffee 365
, Fruit Juice 365
Frappe, Orange and Grape
Juice 366
Frappe, Tea 364
Frappes 363
Frozen Custard, Dolly
Madison's 369
Frozen Desserts, Just How
to Make 359
Fruit Bars 382
Fruit Preserves (Apples,
Pears, and Plums) 309
Gems, Cream Rye 88
German Luncheon Dish . . . 229
Gingerbread, Buttermilk . . 385
, Chocolate ... 384
Gingersnaps 383
Good Cooking : . 3
Goose, Roast 179
Gooseberries, Honeyed . . . 308
Gooseberry Amber 260
Graham Crisps 82
Gems 90
Torte 303
Granite, Banana 366
Granites Made with a
Syrup 366
Grape Conserve 306
353
" Juice Souffle 258
Marmalade 307
Grapefruit Cocktails 255
Green Peppers Stuffed with
Cauliflower 332
Green Tomatoes and Pep-
per Relish 348
Halibut, Baked 154
TITLE PAGE
Halibut, Baked, Spanish
Style 156
Halibut in Lemon Sauce. . 153
Ham, Baked 227
, Baked, Sliced 226
, Kentucky 225
, Southern 226
Timbales 227
Trifle 228
Hamburg Sponge 254
Hash in Disguise 217
Hollandaise, Mock 164
Hominy, Baked 324
Hulled Corn 335
Ice Cream, Coffee 367
Ice Cream, Dolly Madi-
son's 369
Italian Polenta 325
Ivory Cream 252
Jam, Green Gage 307
" , Pear and Cranberry. 308
and Peach .... 308
Jellied Oatmeal 257
Jellies and Preserves, Just
How to Make 297
Jelly, Barberry 304
' , Crab Apple 303
, Green Grape Mint . . 305
, Orange 300
, Pineapple 300
, Pink Grape 304
, Purple Grape 305
" , Quince 304
" , Rhubarb 299
" , Rhubarb 304
Johnnycake, Apple 85
Kidney, Deviled 229
Lamb Souffle 221
Timbales 2-21
Lemon Sticks 241
Lentil and Mushroom Cut-
lets 321
Lentils, Baked 320
" , Baked, and Cheese 322
INDEX
TITLE PAGE
Liver with Bechamel Sauce 228
Loaf, Roast Xut and Bar-
ley 323
Luncheon, \\ hat to Serve
for 12
Macaroni Savory in Chaf-
ing Dish 325
Mackerel, Baked Salt ....155
, Molded 159
Maple Cup Custard 258
Marshmallow Filling 384
Loaf 255
Meat 185
Meat Balls with Horse-
radish Sauce 220
Meat Loaf with Hard
Cooked Eggs 216
Meats, Just How to Buy.. 187
" , Just How to Cas-
serole 209
Meats, Just How to Cook. 214
" , Just How to Roast 200
, Moderately Quick
Cooking 195
Meats, Quick Cooking .... 195
" , Ready Cooked and
Market By-Products .... 199
Meats. Slow Cooking 196
Menus, Just How to Plan. 9
, Autumn 41
, Spring 14
, Summer 32
" , Winter 56
Mexican Delight 114
Mincemeat without Meat. . 240
Mint Chicken Cream 176
Mocha Frosting 386
Mock Beef a la Mode 331
Duck 219
Pork 333
Mousse, Apricot 253
, Ginger 363
, Mint Biscuit 362
, Pineapple 363
, Walnut 362
Muffin, Entire Wheat or
Graham 83
Muffin, Raised 84
TITLE PAGE
Mushrooms Baked under
Glass 326
Mutton, Roast Leg of 220
Xoodle and Ham Pudding 227
Oatmeal Drops 381
Okra 332
Omelet, Bacon and Potato 139
, Cereal 137
, Lattard 138
, Potato 139
, Rice 137
, Ripe Olive 140
, Spinach 139
Onions and Cheese 323
Orange Bombe Glace 367
Orange Puffs, Orange
Sauce 389
Orange Surprise 260
Orange and Grapefruit
Cup 255
Oysters, Broiled, a la Fran-
Qaise 160
Oysters, Scalloped 161
Pancakes, Entire Wheat... 84
Parfait, Coffee 362
, Lemon 361
, Marmalade 368
. Marshmallow . . . 368
Parker House Rolls 80
Pastry, Choux 390
Peach Melba 254
Peaches, Spiced 310
, Sweet Pickled . . . 309
Peanut Butter Pinwheels.. 88
Pear Condet 258
Pears with Ginger 305
Peas 319
Peas, French, Normandy
Style ".326
Peas, Mint 331
Pepper Hash 350
Persian " Piloh " 101
Peter Pans 380
Philadelphia Scrapple .... 225
Pickle, Mixed Mustard. . . . 350
INDEX
415
TITLE PAGE
Pickle, Ripe Tomato Sweet 351
Pickles, East Indian 348
Pickles, Green Tomatoes
Sweet 349
Pickles, Just How to
Make 343
Pickles, Tiny Cucumbers or
Gherkin 347
Pie, A Dixie Potato 292
' , Apple 239
1 , Butterscotch 242
" , Cream 243
' , Date 242
' , Mock Cherry 240
" , Pumpkin 242
" , Sour Cream, No. 2.. . 243
" , Transparent 241
Pineapple Preserved with-
out Cooking 306
Pineapple Turnover 243
Planked Lake Superior
White Fish 164
Plum Butter 307
Conserve 307
Plums, Euchred, and Pears 309
Pork Tenderloins, Parisian,
in the Chafing Dish .... 225
Potato Chowder 292
Puff 290
Puffs 290
Potatoes, Anna 288
, Apples and Sweet 293
, Baked 287
, Boiled 286
, Browned Sweet . 293
, Chantilly 289
, French Fried ... 287
, Fried, with Span-
ish Sauce 291
Potatoes, Just How to
Cook 285
Potatoes, Mashed White,
and Turnips 291
Potatoes, Mint 291
, Molded 290
, Nut-filled 289
, Rissolees 290
, Savory 287
, Stuffed 288
TITLE PAGE
Potatoes, Stuffed, with
Cheese 289
Potatoes, and Other Vege-
tables 281
Pot Roast of Beef, Just
How to Cook 205
Pot Roast, Epicurean .... 208
" , Left-Over .... 207
Poultry 171
Poultry, Just How to Buy
and Cook 173
Princess Cream 254
Prune Tapioca 253
Prunes, Jellied 259
Pudding, Apple and Bread
Crumb 246
Pudding, Baked Indian and
Apple 247
Pudding, Bread 244
, Brown Sugar . . . 247
, Caramel Bread . . 246
Pudding, Caramelized Rice
and Apple 105
Pudding, Corn 323
, Frozen Rice .... 106
Lemon 248
Lemon Bread . . . 248
Maple Tapioca. . 249
Persimmon 250
Rhubarb 244
Steamed Date . . 243
Suet 246
Puree Jackson 114
of Tomato 118
Ragga Muffin 82
Raspberry Jelly 260
Red Cabbage " 332
Rhubarb Relish (for meat
course) 310
Rice 95
( , Baked 101
Boiled — Carolina .... 102
" , Boiled — Japanese . . . 100
" , Carrotina 104
Croquettes 107
Cups 104
" , Hindu Vegetable .... 102
" , Just How to Cook ... 96
416
INDEX
TITLE PAGE
Rice, Mexican 100
" , Steamed 99
" , Vegetarian 101
" and Quinces, Jced
Compete of 106
Rice and Sausage, Baked. . 103
with Tomato and
Cheese 329
Rolls, Raised Split 83
Rough Robin 86
Royal Cream 256
Salad, Beet and Pepper . . . 270
, Cabbage 271
, Cherry 273
" , Cleveland 271
, Crab Meat 274
, Cucumber Jelly .... 269
, Grape " 273
, Hawaiian 272
" , Jellied Chicken and
, Egg 267
Salad, Okra 270
, Oyster 275
, Pineapple 272
, Pond Lily 274
, Potato and Tomato. 269
" , Red Pepper 269
" , Red and White Cur-
rant and Raspberry 274
Salad, Roast Beef . ". 268
" , Salmon 158
, Salmon Jelly 157
" , Sardine 27;
" , Spinach 268
, Stuffed Egg 267
" , Tomato Jelly 270
^ " . Waldorf . . ." 271
Salads 265
Sally Lunn 82
Sally Lunns 89
Salmon. Parisian 158
, Planked, with Po-
tato Balls 155
Salmon Shells 157
Sandwiches. Jellied Chicken 178
, Roquefort . . . 277
Sauce, Almond 246
" , Chili 351
TITLE PAGE
Sauce, Creamy 251
" , Currant Mint 231
, Drawn Butter 163
" , Foamy Pudding . . . 250
" , Hollandaise 163
" , Horseradish 231
" , Lobster 163
, Maple Hard 251
, Marshmallow 368
" , Mexican 217
" , Xut Cream 250
, Orange 390
, Ripe Olive 140
" , White Mushroom . . 181
for Suet Pudding . . 246
Sausage Bundles 228
Sherbert, Mint Fruit 369
Short Bread. Rich 381
Shrimps, Savory, in Chafing
Dish 161
Sillabub 251
Souffle Tin, To Prepare a 248
Soup, Black Bean 330
" , Crab, a la Maryland 117
" , Cream of Celery .... 119
, Cream of Corn 119
" , Cream of Fish 160
. ("ream of Lettuce, .. 116
" , Cream of Rice 103
, Creole 115
" , East Indian 105
" , Lentil and Tomato. 117
. Mock Oyster 118
" , Mn^hroom 113
, Southern Tomato ... 116
, Spanish 115
" , Swedish Fish 117
^ " . White 115
Soups in
Spaghetti 325
Spare-ribs stuffed with ap-
ples and prunes 224
Spider Corn Cake 91
Spinach 318
Squash. Steamed in Shell . 335
, Summer 327
Steak, Flank, with Onions. 216
" , Swiss 215
Stock, Vegetable 114
INDEX
417
TITLE PAGE
Strawberry Charlotte 259
Compote 259
Shortcake,
Grandmother's 245
Stuffed Green Peppers (or
Mangoes) 349
Stuffing 179
Summer Hot Pot 334
Supper, What to Serve
for 14
Sweetbreads, Masked .... 229
Sweet Potatoes, Scalloped . 292
Thanksgiving Brambles . . . 241
Tomato Catsup (uncooked) 350
Curry 328
Rabbit 329
Sweets, yellow egg 352
Tomatoes a la Tom 328
Tomatoes, Smothered 328
Tongue, Braised 231
TITLE PAGE
Turkey, Roast, Chestnut
Stuffing 177
Turkey, Wild 175
Veal, Casseroled 212
, Bavarian, Chops . . . 222
, Creamed 223
Cutlet, Baked 222
Dandy 223
Loaf 224
Paprika 223
, Sour Cream Gravy. 221
Vegetables, Just How to
Cook 317
Wafers, Chocolate Nut .... 392
Waffles, Rice, with Maple
Syrup 249
Waffles, Sweet Potato 293
Watermelon Rind, P r e -
served 352
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